6 Ways to Carbonate Your Beer in a keg - How to carbonate beer in a keg
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 01. 2021
- 6 Ways to Carbonate Your Beer in a keg - How to carbonate beer in a keg
There are so many ways to carbonate beer in a keg that there has to be a way that works best for you. Plus I'll share a few quick carb solutions to help speed things up when you need them.
1. CO2 at the correct pressure for up to 2 weeks.
2. Using corn sugar (priming sugar) at room temp for up to 2 weeks.
3. Corny keg lid with aeration stone.
4. CO2 at 30 to 40 psi for 3 to 4 days.
5. CO2 at 30 to 40 psi and then shake it for 20 to 40 minutes.
6. Quickcarb by Blichmann or DIY quick carbonation system.
You can see it in action in the Cider video at 8 minutes into the video using the DIY quick carbonation system.
• How to make hard cider...
How to build your own quick carbonation system:
• How to Quick Carbonate...
Forced Carbonation Chart
bitterreality.com/wp/wp-conte...
Equipment shown or spoken about in this video:
Blickmann Complete Quick Carb System
www.homebrewing.org/QuickCarb...
www.morebeer.com/index?a_aid=b...
shop.greatfermentations.com/c...
Build it yourself parts:
Stainless Steel Diffusion stone with inline aeration setup
amzn.to/3i2MLMy
amzn.to/2LpyRIr
amzn.to/3oBPTla
Carbonation Cap
amzn.to/3siuvn6
Carbonation Cap (2 pack - better value)
amzn.to/38xLoCz
25 pack of 1/4 flare washers for MFL disconnects (these are hard to find and awesome)
amzn.to/39lx3s5
Hose if you need it (3/8" ID 1/2" OD)
amzn.to/3sg6a1c
amzn.to/3qep1rY
Hose Clamps - 50 piece 9 - 38 mm
amzn.to/3oBWBrk
12v Pump that would require a 12v power adapter
amzn.to/2LnvJwR
amzn.to/2XDw7JX
Complete beer or cider Transfer system or just the pump-
www.morebeer.com/index?a_aid=b...
Racking Cane
amzn.to/2LF3KZi
amzn.to/3bw9RKs
www.homebrewing.org/Stainless... - Jak na to + styl
I have been naturally carbing in corny kegs for 8+ years without issue, sure the odd one is slightly over carbed but I have 15 kegs so there is no way for me to carb them all using my kegerator gas and releasing c02 is easy. It takes 2 weeks for the sugar to be converted into c02. The measurement is simple, I use beersmith, for cane sugar (table sugar) which I use, is 50 grams per keg. Liquify the sugar in a small amount of boiling water then add to your empty keg just prior to adding the beer into it. There is no need to consider trub, which you seem concerned about, as you are filling the keg to a point about a 1/2 inch below the full point, this leaves enough headspace for the c02 to sit once the beer is saturated. If you don't have enough beer to fill to this level then it just means you will have a bit more head space, no big deal, obviously you want to be close to the full level not at 1/2 full for this to work.
I brew all grain beers in various styles with multiple yeast varieties and this works for them all as long as the beer has been allowed to properly complete fermentation prior to kegging. The great thing about this method is it allows me to brew multiple beers in a short window yet keep them stored for a decent period of time out of the fridge, I have had beers sit for a year this way and other than a reduction in hop aromas, they still taste great, cheers.
Sounds like you have your system down! I like it and will try it again as my Raspberry Ginger Saison was nice but this was the first year I kegged it and I'm use to bottle conditioning it normally which I feel made a tremendous difference in flavor as it just didn't taste like the same beer. Someone recommended natural carbonation in the keg vs the CO2 method which supposedly will help it taste more like it did from the bottles. Thanks for the insight and I like how you have it down to 50g as I've been considering moving to grams aka metric for some measurements as it is a bit more granular compared to oz. Plus keeping with F over C as F is also a bit more granular or specific based on how you look at it.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Yes after 8 years all grain brewing have it down pretty much. I have bottled and kegged saisons, if I tasted them side by side I might be able to detect a difference but TBH they taste great kegged to me. One thing I forgot to mention is you have to pressurize the keg just enough to seal the lid when carbing this way and you will pull a half a glass or so of yeasty beer on your 1st pull but thats it, saves a bunch of c02 as well. As you say, grams are great for measurements and fahrenheit for temps, happy brewing!
This is the video I was looking for! Thank you sir.
Happy to help and if you have any questions or need assistance just let me know. (Sorry for the late reply as the holidays was a bit crazy with work and home at the same time.)
Thank you for the video. All the videos tell you to put the beer in the keg and apply CO2 but they don't tell you that it still takes time to carbonate, just not as long as bottle priming does. I just got my first ever mini keg and have been doing research to make sure I keg right. Watching this video feels like I just put the last puzzle piece in place.
Love that shirt! Thanks for the information on the keg lid carbonation, I was thinking of picking a couple of those up but I would MUCH prefer the aroma in my beer!
My wife hates beer and the smell of it but hooks me up with some really cool T-shirts, usually off of Etsy from time to time.
Thanks for your videos! I use option 5, but I put the keg in a skate (with an old towel), it's an easy way to shake it.
Forgot about doing it that way but I always joke I'm going to start a Home Brewing Work Out video when I shake kegs, carry full ones, or carry the full carboys to and from my bar area.
Like the way you are practically explaining
Thank you and sorry for the delay on responding as work has been crazy. I like to have things fully explained to me to avoid confusion so I do the same in return. Thank you.
One thing I have learned is that the process for making beer should never be rushed. People are so anxious sometimes and think that because they don't hear or see any more bubbling then fermentation is finished. But that's not an indicator. I find force carbing to be similar in that there is a different mouth feel to beer that has been carbonated properly. When I use patience I find my beers to be so much better.
I've heard the same and that Belgians are much better bottle conditioned then keg carb'd. I'm still learning and playing with the carbonation but as for fast fermentation...I just shake my head when I see videos about beer in 48 hours or like as I personally wouldn't care to even taste that. Beer needs time to kind of allow all the different elements to mingle a bit. I did a test once with beer that was brewed at high abv and then watered down to see how it tasted. It tasted like watered down beer initially but over time it did improve although it was never perfect, it did show that a little aging does a lot of different things for the beer and directly impacted flavors.
Wonderful video, I am a home brewer since 6/7/2011 and do not buy store beer.
Today I make beer for $10 a case of strong beer @10% abv, which is like 40% above Bud or stuff I would not drink if it were free. In comparison: my $10 case of beer would be valued at Bub for $6 a case? With making beer at home: I do not have to pay for bottles, transportation, CEO's, buildings, trucks or employees. In reality my costs are exactly what beer cost if it was just a liquid - you just have to put it in a container. What matters to me - Homemade beer taste so good!
I always wanted to know different ways to carbonate Corny Kegs. Fascinating job on your video! I ran out of CO2 gas 4 years ago and could not find a place that would recharge my 18 year old tank. May times prior I never used gas and after my tank ran out - I have not used any gas since.
The biggest issue with natural aspirated beer in a keg is what is the pressure? Right before watching your video today, I looked to see if someone had installed a Strader valve to a keg? I did not find anywhere that someone did that; so: I just made a video on installing a Strader valve to a Corny keg! I have been using my Strader valve for 2 years with unbelievable results! No more praying or hoping that the pressure is too low, dead zero or air Bomb. Getting use to kegs has been a learning curve for sure. So much easier than bottles and less issues.
Actually a 10% beer where I live would be $12 to $25 a 6 pack. Plus the big reasons for the high costs of beer where I live is the distributor and the retailer, sadly the brewery doesn't make much unless they sell the beer at their brewery. You are right as for what it costs me to buy a couple 6 packs of good beer I can make about 50 - 12 oz (cans worth) of a great beer that I want to drink.
Good one enjoyed it. I have tried all those save the blickman auto carb. Thought about getting one of those but decided against it. The high pressure with agitation is my method when in a crazy hurry. But usually not in a hurry. Pressure fermentation with a closed transfer into keg and it comes partially pre carbonated.
I'm usually not in a big hurry and 3 to 4 days works for me but now you have me thinking maybe I should have also included...if you just want a pint or two to use a Soda Stream as that is my go to when I just want a glass or two up front while it is carbonating as it works well for a 1 liter bottle.
Great video! I tend to crank and shake (notice no real downsides apart from potential of overdoing it and a metallic flavor “bite” for a few hours immediately after) if I have a tap open and no beer in my carbonating and conditioning fridge, but otherwise I just throw ‘em in there for a week and swap when needed. Getting that second fridge made life so much easier! By the way if you do end up overcarbonating on accident just throw a spunding valve on there at your desired serving pressure for the temperature (basically what you’d put for your set and forget) and wait 24 hours or so; basically does the work of pulling the PRV every so often for you
Nice, minus the metallic bite. I've heard of a few more ways since this video but all are similar. Although I still do a few different ones, the main go to is 30 psi for 2 days and then slowly allowing it to return to 10 psi for serving. If I'm not in a rush, I simply set the psi to 12 for 2 weeks and then ease it back to 10 psi. The 30 trick still doesn't help to keep the carbonation in suspension 100% until it has had some time to settle.
Thanks for making this video I was thinking about getting a carb stone but may not now. I just hook up my co2 to the liquid outlet and leave it hooked up to serving pressure for a few days. I think the co2 bubbling through the beer helps, if I’m in a hurry I’ll shake it then leave it overnight.
I tried using the carb stone an insane amount of times but was never really that impressed compared to simply kicking the pressure up to 30+ psi for 2 days or doing the shaking method. Those are my preferred methods when I'm in a hurry.
Thanks for making this simple. They really need the for dumb book series for home brewers. That book series made everything simple to understand. With the shaking method home brewer 4 life did a video on that where they just rolled it counted to 200 then cold cashed it for 30 minutes
Thank you for the support and I try to find options as sometimes you need to get that quick carb and other times you just aren't in that big of hurry. I love the 1 hour quick carb but don't usually use it as I don't need more to clean as I think brewing beer gives us all way too many things to worry about cleaning. 😀 Forget 200, are new inside joke is we will just want higher some cheerleaders to offer quick carb shaking of kegs to home brewers for a small fee while they wait and as most home brewers are guys we figure it would make a for a great business. We'll me a buck and the cheerleaders will make serious bank.
When I used the lids with the aeration stones, I’d set it at 14-16 psi for about a day. I used to adjust the pressure up a couple psi every few hours like the instructions for the lid suggested but liked ‘set it and forget it’ better.
What I usually do now is set a keg with chilled, uncarbomated beer on its side on the floor with the gas inlet on the top, hook it up at 30 psi and roll it back and forth with my foot for about two and a half minutes. Put it back to chill for a day or two.
Release most of the pressure before pouring the first one. A few pints will be foamy, but it settles down after that.
I don’t leave the gas connected - when the pour starts to slow, I push CO2 at ‘serving pressure’ - about 5 psi for about 15-30 seconds. Pop off the gas disconnect and keep pouring.
Sounds like it works for you as everyone seems to have their own system that works for them. I like the quick carb in under 1 hour but will probably rarely use it as I would have to clean everything and as a home brewer I feel like I am constantly cleaning everything so if I'm not in a rush...that is one less thing to clean. I just carb'd 4 kegs in about 3 days just doing the 30 psi and 2 ended up a bit over carb'd but they are all good and I'm happy which is all that matters.
2:16 This applies to the corn sugar thing, as well as to anything else that depends on a precise volume: it's much easier to accurately measure weight than volume. I have a $25 shipping scale in my brewing area that (supposedly) measures to the gram. I don't know that I trust it that far, but at least to +/- 10g. My kegs are all marked with their empty weight. Fill a keg, throw it on the scale, subtract empty weight, and that's the weight of the beer (in kg, because the math is easier in metric). Divide that by your FG, and that's the volume in liters (though even if you ignore this step, it's rare you'll be off by more than 1%). Multiply that by 0.264, and you have volume in gallons. And with either of those volume measurements, you can determine how much priming sugar (of whichever variety) you need, because you've already left the trub behind.
I usually crank the keg up to ~30 psi and give it a few minutes' shake just to give it a head start, then put it at serving pressure until ready.
Thank you for the insight as I didn't think to measure by weight as they would be easy in a keg (after weighting an empty keg of course for the deduction). I was learning how to make bread a few years ago and almost everything was by weight. Thank you.
Great video and good explanations. The only thing I'm still hung up on is how to bleed the pressure properly from the keg from 30psi after a couple days to serving pressure. I know I need to turn off the gas and disconnect the beer in. After that I'm assuming I bleed the keg at the PRV until I don't hear the purge anymore and then set the regular to say 12psi before reconnecting the gas in and turning on the CO2?? Will that unseat the keg lid tho? I Know I may lose some of the hop aroma with that method. I guess the other part that confuses me is the PRV on my regulator as well lol. Thanks for your time and patience with us noobs!
The first glass or two might have a little more foam on top but you should be good after that. As for beers with great aromas like a really big IPA I wouldn't recommend this method as it does have the ability of diminishing the aromas a bit which is sometimes referred to as CO2 washing. Now that you have me thinking about it, I would possibly recommend the speed carbonating method using either the Blichmann's quick carb or a DIY type as this way you carbonate the beer and keep it very fresh all at the same time.
Great video mate. When doing number 4, set ya gas to 35-40 do you then turn the gas off or leave it on for the 2-3 days ? Dumb question I know but still working keg basics out. Thanks 👍
You can do either but there are parts to consider. You can crank it to 40 and leave it there as you will most likely be 100% within 2 days but you have a greater chance of risk for leaks which can empty your CO2 overnight. I've had a fair amount of C02 leaks about a year ago that took me a lot of troubleshooting to finally find it and with up to 8 kegs (7 - 5gal & 1 - 1 gal) I have too many points of possible leaks so as I'm gun shy now days I will usually crank mine up to 30 psi (sometimes 35 psi) and just apply the pressure to the keg 2 to 3 times per day turning it off each time it comes up to pressure and I will repeat this for about 4 days (some kegs based on the beer like a stout will usually be good in 2.5 to 3 days while a thinner beer or a beer that needs higher carbonation like a hefee might take 5 days of this worst case). I really wish I wasn't so gun shy but my 10 gallon CO2 runs about $33 a pop for a refill in my neck of the woods which adds up fast.
@@BitterRealityBrewing thanks mate I appreciate your detailed explanations 👍
Question ? What do you think about keeping the C02 tank outside of the kegerator ? I can’t fit all my kegs and include c02 tank, so I keep it outside of the fridge . Do think this has complications ?. Your thoughts on this .
I swear by keeping my CO2 tank outside of my keezer and my kegerator. The problem with putting a CO2 tank inside of a cold area is that the compression makes the CO2 indicator very difficult to read. It works a lot better to keep your CO2 tank at room temp.
I do a variation of #5. I keep the psi at 10-12lbs. Fill with CO2, remove gas line and roll on ground for a few minutes. Reconnect to gas and fill, then disconnect again and roll for another few minutes. I then Reconnect to gas line and in a day or 2 it's fully carbed.
Sorry for the delay but I understand but what is funny is that me a another viewer were joking about paying cheerleaders to shake the kegs...figured it would everyone excited about quick carbing.
Surprised you didn’t mention pressure fermentation.
Great catch, and I'm surprised no one else caught that sooner! I didn't start pressure fermenting until months after this video, so it wasn't something I had thought of at that point. Thank you, and Cheers!
For the 1st way, Do you leave the Co2 on the whole time? Or do you add 12psi and then remove the Co2 hose and let sit for 2 weeks? Currently using a Fermzilla all rounder.
The first way is "Set and Forget" from 10 to 15 psi (I usually put mine at 12 psi for most beers). If you are using the Fermzilla all rounder and plan to transfer it from the all rounder to a keg the key is to transfer it REALLY slowly and possibly let your fermzilla get up around 15 psi just before the transfer as you will lose some carbonation but usually you can recover within a day or two based on how much was lost during the transfer. (lost as in CO2 that fell out of suspension). If fermenting, chilling, and serving from the all rounder then you are good at 10 to 15 psi without issues.
When using a carb stone, I put to serving pressure right away. Purge keg to remove oxygen atmosphere in keg. This is done through the stone. I burp it 3 or 4 times. Then 1 or 2 more times in the next hr. That's all I Purge. By morning 8 to 10 hrs or so it's pretty well carbonated. After 2 days it's golden. Sounds like you were washing the heck out if it. Not trying to be critical but maybe this method will let your purchase still be an option. Brew on sir and enjoy
There is always a chance I was given bad instructions as it sounds like you might have it down to a science. The fun part of brewing is that we are all, always learning from each other and our own personal experiences. Even with all these ways to carbonate I seem to stick to the 2 to 3 days at 30 psi and then lower it a few psi above where I want it for another day or two and it works well. I would use the quick carb method every time if I didn't have to clean it all as I figure I clean the hell out of so much I really don't want something else to clean unless I really have too. Brew On!
For cider, would you use the same 30-40 psi for the same amount of time? Can you bottle from the keg after carbonation has completed? If so, is the method different than normal bottling?
😀 you found the video I just sent you the link for. Yes I usually do 30 psi for either a few days or for a day or two and shake the hell out of the keg. A full 5 gallon keg can be 54 lbs and I'm not a weight lifter so I put it on the back of my shoulders and simply shake back and fourth a few times and repeat 2 to 3 times over the day or day and half (aka when I have time) then I cold crash in the keezer and once it is ready I simply lower the pressure to 10 to 12 psi as I like my cider nicely carbonated. The 1 hour system is nice but it is one more thing to clean and I'm lazy by nature and clean enough. Take a look at my reply to the other comment about bottling. If you need links I can send them to you. This is about bottle fillers - czcams.com/video/MfXUXyHugF0/video.html
@@BitterRealityBrewing Thanks I will have a look at that. Try not to hurt yourself doing weird motions with heavy weights ;)
I like option #6. I good shake never hurt anybody
Maybe we can get a cheerleading squad of girls to show us the shake method, as I'd bet that would then become the method for almost all home brewers. 😀😀😀
@@BitterRealityBrewing I’d be carbonating everyday
@@tman9338 I think it would be the new thing and I'd start doing seltzers as they need extra carbonation... 😂😂😂
I use 2 methods.
1. Have a headspace in the Keg. First 3-4 bar and keep cold. Next day another 3-4 bar. Next day ready to drink or bottle with a counter pressure filler.
2. Pressure fermentation. First open fermentation. Add sugar and dry hops if needed. Close and put on a spunding valve. Wait a week. Coldcrash. Transfer to a clean Keg. Top up with CO2 if needed.
I get the first way as it is comparable to like methods but I really like your 2nd method with the dry hops and sugar being added at the same time. For the 2nd method do you use a floating dip tube with that method to avoid pulling the hops and sediment?
@@BitterRealityBrewing Yes.
I have a Craft A Brew Conical fermenter....can't put it in a fridge based on size and I know I could go to a second vessel but that defeats part of the purpose of THIS fermenter. I have purchased a one gal home brew keg to try kegging on a small scale. Can you transfer beer at room temp into a keg, then refrigerate for a day to get it to a good cold CO2 temp, then turn on the gas and pressurize it? If so...can you give me step by step so I don't waste a gallon of my beer trying this?
100% you can do that as I do that all the time! Most of the beer I move from one system to another is at room temp, plus when I do a speed carbonate I do it all at room temp before tossing it into the keezer.
I like to a pressure transfer with the beer at 12psi and the keg at 10psi then I crank it up to 35psi when the kegs full for a Just a few minutes. Then I get them in the keezer and keep at 12psi and it's ready in 3 days.
Sounds like you have a system down as I keep evolving and testing different ways. Mine don't seem to get to the proper carbonation unless I keep the pressure on them for a 2 to 4 days that is without agitation. Plus I have a habit of kicking up most of mine about 2 psi higher than recommended for the style as I like things to be on the slightly higher side with the exception of most stouts and porters of course.
I simply prime with 1/4 cup of table sugar in about a 1/2 to 1 cup water. Let condition for 5-7 days vent multiple times then serve on my beer engine. Perfect cask (keg) conditioned beer
I used to bottle a ton for the first 4+ years but I've not had great success with keg conditioning but to be honest, I've only tried it twice. I'm wondering if I did a keg conditioning of my Raspberry Ginger Saison, if it would taste more like when I use to bottle condition which was much better compared to kegging with just putting under CO2 pressure for carbonation.
I have only primed, even before I had my engines when I just used cobra taps. Right now I have a 1.042 session IPA conditioning that I will tap Friday evening and will serve on Saturday( will have conditioned 7 days). I will vent Friday am and once again before I “tap” (ball lock connections). Since I serve on hand pump (with cask breather) I shoot for a lower co2 level but the beer still has lots of condition just not as much as traditional keg beer. For pales ipas and bitters I do not use a swan neck let alone a sparkler. I want as much condition to remain I the beer and I don’t want the hop aroma to get buried in the foam
Before water comes to a boil, the dissolved gasses bubble off. Can you degass your beer before carbonation?
You could but why would you want to degass it? The vast majority of any gasses in the beer before carbonation would be C02 from the yeast used.
3/4 of a cup of corn sugar per 19 litre keg is adequate.
Corn sugar works great as a priming agent for carbonation.
Question unrelated to kegging but...have you heard/what are your thoughts on FiveStar 5.2 pH stabilizer?
I have an almost full container of that stuff somewhere but never use it (maybe twice when I first got it). I like FiveStar as they make PBW and StarSan but I have some SuperMoss HB from them also and recently found that my whirlfloc tablets appear to do a considerably better job. I have a few reasons for not using 5.2 pH stabilizer and the first should be obvious, you are essentially throwing a catch all at a problem which is never going to give you a quality brew in my opinion. #2 there is one brewery here in Jacksonville, FL that I have never liked the taste of any of their beers and I was told by someone who works very closely with them that they use city water and beyond a campden tablet they buy the FiveStar 5.2 PH Stabilizer in very large quantities (I was told a drum) and that is it. So in its defense it might just be the water as our water is really nasty and full of chemicals to help avoid people from getting sick from other issues. At the end of the day doing brewing salts with the occasional lactic acid drips, and some acid malt with RO or distilled water isn't that hard plus it will help you dial in a much better tasting beer that is repeatable. The big complaints I see on the net are added salts, (phosphates), and that it usually only brings your PH down to around 5.76 to 5.8 from what other people are stating.
Keep an eye out for my next two videos as they will be about PH. One will be about the DR 100 meter which is like $30 from what I remember and the other will be an experiment with PH.
@@BitterRealityBrewing thanks for getting back to me so quick with an answer. I hadn’t looked into the science behind it but as you stated it seemed kind of odd that you could treat all mashes the same when you’re using different types and amounts of grains. Like they say, if something sounds too good to be true it probably is. Looking forward to the upcoming videos.
@@jongerenski1545 Yeah but as home brewers I think we all have purchased things that sounded really good at first, only to realize it wasn't or maybe there was a better way. One of my favorite parts about home brewing...the always learning part. Not the part about wasting money on stuff that doesn't work as advertised.
I'd like to know the cubic foot size of your keezer. I want to build one that'll hold 7-8 corny kegs, and am not sure what size to look for,
I can look up the model tomorrow but it is a 9 cu ft Magic Chef with a 2x10 cuff all the way around the top. I can get 5 kegs in the bottom and 2 on the ledge for a total of 7. I can also drop a 1 gal keg in between the 5 and the 2 on the edge of the shelf when doing small batch testing.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Thanks for the reply. What you told me about it is just what I wanted to know. I like you channel, by the way. I came across it a few days ago, and liked it right away. I've brewed before, and am getting back into it again... This time with much fancier equipment.
good info. I will say from what I hear, you don't want to touch the stone used for oxygenation/carbonation. I've been told the oils in your fingers clog the extremely small holes
I've heard the same but for the video presentation, I wasn't thinking about it otherwise when I'm doing things like that my hands are usually freshly cleaned and sprayed down with Star San just in case I come in contact with something that might touch my beer. 🍻
@@BitterRealityBrewing I’ve definitely touched it not thinking about it either
Um gonna try 1\2 dextrose 1\2 co2 carbonisation , reason being wen u buy beer u can see lots of bubbles , bubbles stuck to the wall of the glass and it tastes n looks much nicer
Bubbles stuck to the wall of a glass general mean the glass is dirty mate
Forgot that...thanks.
One other method would be transfer the beer to a keg with at least 1 point of gravity remaining, then attaching a spunding valve to the desired pressure
Is 1 point of gravity enough to get the full 10 +/- PSI you need consistently?
You can also rack it to the keg at the tail end of fermentation when there's only a few SG points left to ferment, and then use a spunding valve.
No sugar, no extra work, you can control the CO2 volume accurately and most trub is out but you will get a first yeasty glass.
That is a very creative way of carbonating but I would suspect it might take a little trial and error to nail it regularly. Although I am very temped to try it in the near future. I was impressed with my pressure fermentation being ready to drink the day after it was chilled down.
Why would you think it's hard to nail? When you set the pressure you can be very accurate. Or do you mean it's hard to pinpoint the moment to rack? That is true but the worst that can happen is either you are too late, in which case you can always add gas the normal way, or you are too early in which case there might be a bit more yeast to tap away.
@@Duci1989 The timing is what I think might take some practice as a great example Beer Smith and BrewFather say Whitelabs 565 will end around 1.010 for FG but I regularly hit 1.006 with that yeast so if you know the yeast you should be set but if not it could be a little more challenging but as you said I can't imagine I'd be off by much unless the yeast stalled for some reason and then I am pretty good at getting things moving again most of the time.
WHY do you do that with the carb stone lid??? Put the lid on purge the head space with co2, put the co2 on the carb stone line set it at 17 psi for 6 hours then turn it down to serving pressure.
I've actually tried something like that but at 20 psi overnight and it did decent but I've found the recommendation I mentioned seems to work a bit better. I've read a lot of peoples' recommendations for that carb stone and the majority recommend slowly adding pressure to maximize the infusion and it does seem to work a little better but nothing life shattering in regards to the difference and I've only tried it maybe 3 times each way over the years. The best recommendation which honestly works without using a carb stone is to add 4 to 5 psi and shake the hell out of the keg and let it sit for 1 to 2 hours and repeat while bringing the pressure up a few psi each time. After about 4 to 5 cycles the entire keg is full carbonated but will need to rest for a good 20 minutes to 1 hour to avoid coming out overly carbonated. (Over night to allow for anything like gelatin to settle back out of suspension.). Lately to avoid a mess I simply pump the PSI up to 18 to 20 psi and shake the hell out of the keg 2 to 3 times over the course of a day and the next day it is ready to drink and usually nice and clear if it was intended to be. My recent video with a Soursop Gose, I had put it under pressure the day before and shaken the hell out of it and was serving nicely carbonated and very clear beer the next evening and it had only been cold crashed (chilling in the keezer) for like 4 hours at that point - czcams.com/video/uSJR4NwMfQY/video.html (I was actually impressed it had become as clear as it was.)
Everyone has their way I guess eh? Great video's BTW!
Cheers ,we just let it sit for 10 days , works good for us .
Before I started doing the 30 to 40 psi for 2 to 4 days I was doing that and most were good in under 2 weeks as I wasn't counting usually just set, forget, and then ...Hey I almost forgot about the new brew...enjoy. 🍺
Mine comes out throthy as hell but then it goes and it’s flat ?!
What method are you using? (Other helpful bits of info - Temp, type of hose, and length.) If you are using any of the same-day speed methods, you will want to let it rest for about 20 minutes or so to avoid excess foam, although it is a good sign you are either done or close to done.
@@BitterRealityBrewing hi I’m carbonating lager in a 30ltr keg , I’m thinking I need the co2 bubbling through the beer so I’m gunna try and do that .
The foamy beer coming out , I think is from a slight leak so fingers crossed 🤞
I like the cornsugar method. It would save me CO2. But perhaps it's more time consuming.
Plus then you end up with a bit more yeast on the bottom of your final keg too. Not a big deal if you are using one of those nifty floats to pull your beer from the top but otherwise I could see a good dose of B vitamins with every pull of the tap.
@@BitterRealityBrewing oh that would suck, as I having a Cornelius keg with a fixed steel pipe reaching very close to the bottom. There is just a small rim for some yeast trub.
@@braufritze8673 Same here although I did recently buy two different liquid float devices to test out but haven't put them into place yet.
@@BitterRealityBrewing what kind of system can you recommend?
I found 3 Days was enough for a full Keg with Ales, used a Spunding Valve to monitor things, for the first few times.
There should be ample Yeast still in unfined Beer to chomp through the small amount of Sugars, never noticed any extra Trub.
Its well worth it if you prefer Natural Carbonation, or just want to save CO2.
If you are unsure of the Volume going in Weigh the Keg and adjust according.
No good for down under , we carbonate for 24hrs . though kegorator instructions says 48hrs , brewcraft shop guys say 24hrs
Good video anyway
Chin chin
How do you carbonate in 24 hrs? shake method?
I'm sorry I find it very hard to follow along your kind of all over the place I'm just new to this you're going through stuff so fast I don't know where you're at just my opinion
Sorry I am a bit OCD mixed with ADD but I would be happy to answer any questions you might have and welcome to the hobby. Are you already kegging? I am trying to work on my structuring of my videos as I try to tailor them for beginners to intermediate home brewers but sadly I am a home brewer first and still learning audio/video production. (Some videos are a bit more advanced while others not so much.
Are you using a TV to display your beer selection? What a waste of electricity!
😂No, I only turn it on for shooting of the videos. It use to be used for playing Retro games at the bar (as it can't stay on for more than 20 minutes before it shuts off on its own as it has been dying for year) but now that my oldest has moved out the TV gets about 10 to 20 minutes of air time a week usually only when I'm shooting the videos. I know people go looking for how people waste things on CZcams but when it comes to electricity I had a Dad that would make me turn everything off (Fan, TV, and Lights) before I could just go to the bathroom to Pee. And when I argued I'd be right back he would argue just in case you don't return. I wasn't allowed to open the fridge door when he was home unless I knew exactly what I was going reach for before I opened it and as we lived 10+ miles for any store I was dying to be old enough to drive just so I could go get something to eat. I even drove cars for years that got 35 to 49 MPG so trust me it is rare that I'm wasting anything. Even after I first moved into my current house, I did a cost analysis on moving everything to LED and it turned out it was worth it but over a 1 year period swapping out the highest watt bulbs first. Just because you see something in a video, don't assume it is running 24/7 as I promise you it won't even if I wanted it too.
@@BitterRealityBrewing I was going to say you'll also go through a LOT of TVs if that was the case!
@@mshergold It's a nasty old TV with peeling edges and it gets that mild on the back if it gets too warm, so as soon as the house is sold either the new owners can have it or it is gone. My Dad really did drive OCD about wasting electricity as I take the heat from a light bulb or TV into account as that impacts your electricity bill in regards to your A/C and that thing get really warm really quick which I believe is the reason it shuts off. I have a couple videos where you can watch my videos and the TV suddenly goes black so I am careful not to turn it on until am ready to record, it really is that bad. I use to let the retro games play in demo mode but a few viewers mentioned it was really distracting and after watching everything in full I agreed and a handful of people asked me from time to time what was on tap so that is where the "What's on tap?" came from. When we finally get to the house we are building I should have a newer one that runs much cooler and might actually get watched from time to time off camera.