How to Diagnose and Fix an Arctic Cat Stumble
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- If you're Arctic Cat four wheeler snowmachine snowmobile or sled bogs out, rough acceleration, stumbles, hesitates, or chugs like my Bearcat 454 did, this video may really help in fixing it. Share it with a friend if they ride an Arctic Cat. The symptoms feel like running out of fuel, but the cause can often be spark cutting out due to the CDI detecting voltage too high from a bad rectifier. In this video I explain how I fixed my 6 year problem for about $30.
You may need,
Rectifier → amzn.to/3ObvtfR
Power Probe → amzn.to/3LYHzXV
Special pry pliers → amzn.to/3O1EA2R
Whole pry kit w. pry pliers that are okay for $10 → amzn.to/36brNd4
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I don't have a four-wheeler. In fact I've never owned a four-wheeler, but I watched the whole damn video because I just love to see shit get repaired. Thanks Brian!
Thats crazy, I had a super similar issue with my Arctic Cat 500. I had a dead battery that had been dead for a long time but would always jump start it and I never thought anything of it until it stopped working. It would start fine and run fine at idle, however as soon as you gave it any throttle, it would bog down, miss really bad, and stall. I went through a handful of parts (carb, coil, plug, etc). Finally, I got frustrated and used my oscilloscope to monitor ignition primary (to coil from CDI unit) and found that the primary side was dropping out when I gave it throttle (was not sure why at the time but your comments on input voltage now make sense). I changed the CDI unit with an aftermarket (cheap one), same issue persisted. I monitored the RPM signals from the stator and hall effect sensor to the CDI unit, no issues/dropouts there so I changed the voltage regulator (also had to swap over the plug like you did). Issue still persisted. Lastly, I changed the stator (which comes with a new hall effect sensor as well since both are on the same harness inside the gearbox). The stator fixed my issue right away, no more fluctuating voltage problem or stalling. Voltage is now steady at 14.5 VDC when running and no more throttle issues. Was super interesting that a throttle issue was caused by low battery voltage. I only wish your video came out a few months ago, I could not find anything online at the time about the CDI unit voltage sensitivity.
Thanks. Now I can fix my 98 bearcat.. can’t wait!
I'm excited for you! Let me know how it goes!
Always learning stuff from you Brian! Don't have an Artic Cat (but looking) but, fixing/repairing is required on anything with a motor! Thanks for sharing.
Welcome! Thank you for your support an encouragement over the years!
Thank you for demonstrating a don't give up attitude, sometimes that is what helps me most, is watching others not give up. I'm working on a friend's car with my son and we are trying to fix fog lights and he was going to just replace the bulbs and it still didn't work and give it back to the friend because he was ok with them not working. I asked him do they have power to the plugs and we checked and they didn't, ok how about power to the ballast (who puts ballasts on a fog light, lol....Lexus that's who), we do have power to the ballast, ok order some ballasts. Hopefully that fixes them. Good job Brian on your project!
Thanks Will! Some of those cars have a by-pass kit you have to use if it was something like an H1 halogen bulb and then upfitted to HID. Might be something like that.
Same issue with my 99 400. Although when I purchased it used the three field wires had already been respliced and every couple years it would cook them again right at that connector you saved.
My machine was completely wore out so it was just a matter of time. When one of the front wheel bearings locked up (2wd) I decided it was time for all new bearings, coil plug wire, the crap carburetor, and a new regulator off eBay. The instrument pod such as it was with just idiot lights no longer worked. It's been replaced with a speedo/odom RPM coolant temperature Gage plus some other cool extras along with all the stock information as well. Shocks were shot. Found some nice new adjustable aluminum Reservoir shocks for $60. Also paint as the frame was very Rusty.
Waiting on the foam for the seat and then I'm ready for a test ride.
Nice to know it is likely just the voltage regulator rather than the brain box. Although I do believe the cheap $15 Chevy igniter box I put on the Dodge would also do the trick.
I go by if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Unfortunately it was in need of everything.
Should be like a new machine ready for another 25 years.
Considering it is used mostly everyday for Ranch work it's done well.
Next will be the first time I have done much with the 83 200x.
Yes we are both survivors despite it having only three wheels.lol
Engine still runs strong. Decades ago I mounted a bicycle Speedo /ode so I can safely say it has over 60,000 miles. And only one clutch job.
It's frame is not as Rusty but it is in need of a shock rebuild and bearings. And a third set of plastic. Although I am tempted to go fiberglass and actually attempt to cover the back tires with its 8-in over rear axle. Done lots of fiberglass work over the years so ....
At my age it's not like I ride hard anymore. Lol
🤠🏞️🐂
Awesome video I have the exact same machine with the same problem like you said I went through the whole fuel system with no luck this might be my fix. Thanks
Cool fix. Hope it holds up for a long time!
Keep us posted on this, I have a 2003 cat 400. It has the Suzuki engine (1st year for it) I had/have the same problem. I first put the Amazon regulator on it, that lasted one year. I then bought an aftermarket unit that was physically bigger but cost $100ish that worked sort of for a few months. I then had worse problems and figured out that my stator was fried. Replaced the stator with parts from "RM stator".(Highly recommend) That worked great for 6mths, now I am back to the original problem. Thinking the regulator is shot again, not sure if the bad stator fried it.
Wow, parts are expensive for that dude. Thank goodness you had some options. I like your wiring fix.
Awesome video Brian. I have an 99 Artic Cat 400 doing the same thing. Tried many things but never thought of that being the problem. So much detail on the replacement you done. Wished you lived close to me, ha. Thank U
Yes the genuine part is expensive, and the aftermarket is cheaper, and often will work as well as the oem part. Yes grab a spare one, wrap it in heavy plastic, along with a dozen big cable ties, and a cutter, then zip tie it to the frame, or place in the battery box as a spacer. That way you at least have a spare, and add in a rope as well, just so you can tow the other guy who does not have a spare back to home.
I like the battery spacer idea! Good thinking.
@@briansmobile1 Used to drive a Ford, I had a small bag with spare CDI, 7mm spanner and grease in a small bag, because you never knew when the ignition module was going to fail, either the oem part, very pricey, or the aftermarket part, a tenth the price, and equally likely to fail. Buy two, run one for a month, then swap with the other as you know you have a working module. Soon as the one fails, swap, and go buy another 2, so you end up with 2 working spares.
Hell yeah gonna be testing mine later today! I can’t get it to run yet it was and starter don’t work so I have a new one on the way. I lost all power and was shaking the whole 30amp fuse assembly (forgot what it’s called) now power is restored at least.
Having a very similar issue on a 08 700 efi suz engine. Runs a little doggy after heating up and then will not start back up if i shut it off. EFI flashing across screen. Fan runs till shuts off and let sit a little while longer to cool off and bam! starts right back up. Going to check both stator and regulator. Thank you and the comment section!
I haven't received a notification from this channel in years. The only way I know there's anything new is via my sibscriptions and scrolling through them...
Thanks for the feedback and for checking in.
Feels like we don't see you enough, man!
Search my channel every so often. More to come for sure. I keep hearing that people aren't getting notifications anymore.
I get all kinds of recommendations for people I'm not subscribed to, and for videos I've already seen.
Great video I have a Yamaha 2001 400 big bear wood hauler.
That's a great machine!
Love those cat's, had a 96 454 bearcat
Hope my newer Arctic Cat then this model but now old never has similar problems but never thought of using my power probe this way. Thanks
Have 04 Yam Grizzly 660 . Do a lot of slow speed spraying tending to overheat rectifier and had to replace to keep battery charged. The high speed help to air cool rectifier in normal conditions
6:40 “there’s a lot of tear down to get to this” yeah I’d say so 😂😂 I’ve snapped 7 bolts trying to get to this thing so far
Seems like some access holes would help and then seal them with the rubber & foil tape for HVAC would make it easier to service and still keep the dirt out.
Thank you. My machine had problems similar to yours. Fixed it right up. Just wanted to say though, and it sucked bad, but i was able to get the vr out and replaced without removing the plastic. It was bs but it is possible.
That's a proper repair, the way I would've done it.
I have a similar era 500 and I’m running into this problem as well. Carb has been rebuilt, cleaned the tank, and new plug but it still dies after a few minutes like you was saying. I believe I’m gonna try a new VR also
You explain things excellent!!!!!
Love my power probe!
The algorithm is looking at viewer interaction. Here's mine.
Hello Brian!
Thanks man!
I never would have expected that.
Have a 2000 model arctic cat 500. With similar issues except mine won't do anything but idle. Soon as you hit the throttle it wants to die. I've replaced the voltage regulator three times and it seems it keeps frying them.
Gotta love a cheap fix.
Hell yeah 65ford love your videos ! Learned alot ! You deserve way more subs!
Stupid question but i had given up on my arctic because of the same problem and could you just see the voltage from the batterie to
What color wires go into the replacement wires?
So it's been a year now. Is the voltage regulator still fine? I replaced mine and it got fried again. So I'm thinking I'm doing the stator as well now.
Good work
Thanks Hanif!
Cool stuff bro
Thank you!!! I have the same problem with my Arctic Cat 500. Any recommendations on a more affordable voltage meter/power probe?
This is my go to recommendation because it's useful for many things and easy to use. Set it to 12V and read the battery terminals. → amzn.to/38SiC28 You could even use a cheaper one like this at the battery terminals as long as you set it right so the DC volatage values were reasonable. → amzn.to/3JN5yrn
You are a lifesaver
I have a 98 Arctic cat 250 2x4 and still runs like a new one.
I have the exact same bike they are a little beast.
Ok. Is it a Suzuki, Kawasaki, or Yamaha? Arctic Cat never made their own engines and for sure never had a Honda. I’m guessing Suzi because I’ve replaced those regulators all the time. Corrosion and extreme load will also take out the alternator stator on a Suzi because the headlight circuit is not regulated, it creates heat instead.
I need you help with something I have the same atv and it dies out after 10 minutes of riding it and the spark plug keeps Burning under 10 minutes also and the coolant goes out In Like 30 minutes I can't figure it out.
Did the new unit come with the matching connector to link the two plugs or did you have to search for the matching connector. My apologies if you mentioned that in the video. Thank you
It comes with it. Link in the Show More if you're curious what I saw when I picked it.
Great content
Thanks Inpalpatine!
My 2004 bayou is all original I bought it from an old man who only used for deer season it has this original tires on it they are a mess when I drive about a quarter of a mile it'll run really good and then it'll just start to have to take a little bit and then stop after it seems like it cools down for about 20 minutes it'll start back up and go another quarter of a mile and then repeat why please help
That sounds like an ECU or ignition control module/box. Could be a rectifier, but more likely the computer.
Ok
Just buy a Honda if you don't want to constantly repair your machine.
zhi
Hi brother.russian frend
Hey Andreas- thanks for coming by!
@@goodfella0 are you implying every single Russian is a bad person? Goof.