Actually if you climb often and you do take falls on the rope, you should add 10 more meters to the ideal length you aim for, so you will be able to cut the rope a few times instead of retiring the whole rope once part of it is worn. I bought a 40m rope, after cutting it once, there's not enough length to be cut again. I had to retire the entire rope after using it for just half a year, ended up not saving any money at all.
I don’t think this video is very useful other than „you might want to get one, a short one, that can take some abuse, that can be cheap“. It would be far more interesting to learn about „Handling“ (clipping, friction etc), „catch (impact force)“, durability (how long will it perform well, does it crangle etc) and maybe weight and value. You could pick one winner in each category and an „overall“ winner.
Isn't that what he effectively did in the video, just didn't say it explicitly, he recommended different ropes which were the best in the categories he mentioned...
Fair point but I don’t think they went far enough in talking about the pros and cons of those ropes. I had the impression, that they didn’t even test those ropes but basically took the informations from the rope description. I missed some general points as well, like bigger diameter ropes might not run smoothly through many belay devices, especially if they got „fluffy“ already. Another point might be, what you do with a 40m, let alone 30m rope if you have to cut, throw away? Better get a 50m rope, which you can cut twice before you have to get rid of it, that expands it lifespan significantly. They also failed to mention, that a dry treatment also increases its abrasion resistance, what makes it way more durable. No word about sheath slippage, crangle, impact force (you definitely want a rope with a low impact force rating indoors if you take many falls, if you don’t have a very experienced belayer that mastered dynamic belaying)
Why are episodes getting more and more commercial everytime? I appreciate reviews, but this looks like the goal is to make newbies spend more money on gear
Absolutely second this. I cut my old 70m outdoor rope short two times and will now use it as an 50m indoor rope for a bit more before retiring it. 9.8 workhorses (Edelrid parrot was great for me, not dry treated or anything) all the way. I won't pretend I climb at grades where a 9.8mm would be "too thick" for climbing outdoors
I just bought the pink mamut workhorse last week for the gym. I really love it especially the color and how it stands out. This video really made me feel validated in my purchase. I labeled one side hot and the other side cold with a marker so I can easily see which side I climbed on last and make sure to rotate it around every time I climb to preserve the longevity of it. I wish I had done the same with my 70m outdoor rope!
Not to sure why someone would get an indoor rope that you wouldn't use outside as opposed to getting a rope that can be used outside and obviously inside as well.
if you climb A LOT, it makes more sense. For me, I just use my "used up" short (60m) outdoor-lead rope indoors now and got a replacement for outdoors. It's a matter of personal taste and necessity in the end, I think.
Solid recommendations👍the last outdoor rope video I bought the tendon smartlite 9.9 you recommend, and I have been on the hunt for a affordable indoor rope and I just scooped up the edelrid. Glad to support you guys across the pond
Just invested in the Zenith 9.5mm from your shop on the basis of the low impact force rating, this is something I would love to see you cover along with other recommendations specifically aimed at young climbers. My son has just turned 7 and loves lead climbing, his coach said to make sure we invest in a low impact rope for when he takes a whipper but I wonder what other factors (and gear) we should consider for our younger climbers?
Back in the day I'd have said a top-rope rope and a dynamic rope were different, with significantly less stretch in a top rope - many gyms use static. Care to comment on the lead fall vs. top roping compromise Tendon have made? Basically if I'm leading I want a rope designed solely for leading, and forget top rope. Lets face it, most gyms the top-rope ropes are theirs and fixed in place anyway.
I am not expert at all but l think that outside rope is better because you can use inside and outside. Right? Or inside is prohibited to use outside rope ?
Never considered buying an indoor rope. All the gyms that I have been to have their own that you can use for top roping or lead climbing. I am sorry but even after watching the video a second time I still don't understand why I would need to buy one. Did I miss something ? Am I just lucky that my gyms propose them ?
My gym requires you to take your own rope with you if you want to climb the lead climbing walls. You can use the toprope rope for lead climbing on the toprope walls.
All walls i climb at require you to take your own rope for lead climbs, which is why you need one. The reasons for an indoor and outdoor rope he talks about in the video. If your gym supplies you a rope for lead and you're comfortable using it then nice. Save a bit of cash.
Been to several dozen gyms, and the vast majority do not supply. Further, there are limited amounts of ropes available, thus I’ve always brought one or a partner would.
You have to rent a ropr to lead with at my gym and you a required to use a grigri so if you don't have one you also have to rent that. Buying the gear pays for itself in my case pretty fast.
Well to be honest I don't see the usefulness of an indoor rope Just borrow the one that is top roping at the gym or ask to the staff if they have lead ropes to rent or smth
I've had several climbers I respect (one's an instructor who runs outdoor trips frequently) tell me that dry treated ropes are a gimmick to add value to the rope. Thoughts?
There is a video by Mammut (available on youtube) that shows very clearly, that dry treated ropes can take way more abuse. So I use a dry treated one even for indoor climbing. My Petzl Volta rope with fully treated core and sheath still is in an amazing shape after one year of climbing in- and outdoor (once a week-ish).
Most dry treatments, such as the Mammut treatment mentioned, add enough longevity to a rope to balance the increased cost (and reduces waste) if not intending to climb in alpine or adventuresome conditions. For folks which are, dry treatments are tested and printed on the packaging and significantly reduce water absorption which would negatively influence weight (by a kg), handling (by half a mm), and elongation (in half or more). For folks which are not, water on the rock tends to spoil the session, thus is not essential, but again adds good durability if you can put the cost upfront. Now bipattern ropes, those are ridiculously expensive and less effective than a maintained middle mark.
Sheath dry treatment is useful for for keeping out contaminants if you live in a dry and sandy area, also helps keep out aluminum oxide, extending the rope life. Doesnt usually add much to the cost of the rope either. Full dry (sheath and core) is only useful for ice climbing.
I would not buy an rope that is thicker than 9.5mm. The rope is going to be "fluffy" an than its not fitting really nice threw my belay device. Wenn the rope diameter is small there is more "space"... I bought my last rope, the beal joker 9.1 in the 80m edition in Arco for 145€... When the ends are going to be used out, than i can easily shorten it to 70m or later to 45m for pure indoor climbing.
An amazing rope but I would not buy it because it has a high impact force rating. I had a very hard fall and tore a muscle, since then I prefer more „soft catch“ ropes
While I agree for outdoor purposes, the handling is negligible indoors. Never had a redpoint ruined inside due to rope, as a competent belayer can compensate.
Although I'm an avid fan of this channel, I didn't really enjoy this video. For those of you who are confused: If your gym does not have lead ropes or you just want your own, then it might be worth considering getting a dedicated gym rope that might take more abuse and falls than an outdoor rope. 'Gym ropes' can be a lot cheaper than 'outdoor ropes,' and some people prefer not to add the wear and tear to their more expensive outdoor ropes. Indoor ropes can be slightly thicker/more durable and in the 35-50m length range, as opposed to 60/70m. Check with your gym what the minimum length rope is allowed. I made the mistake of buying a 35m and then moved to a gym that requires 40m. oof. tl;dr Buy the cheapest gym rope (NEW) that you can find, while making sure that it can fit comfortably into the belay device you use and long enough for the routes in your gymm
Actually if you climb often and you do take falls on the rope, you should add 10 more meters to the ideal length you aim for, so you will be able to cut the rope a few times instead of retiring the whole rope once part of it is worn.
I bought a 40m rope, after cutting it once, there's not enough length to be cut again. I had to retire the entire rope after using it for just half a year, ended up not saving any money at all.
I don’t think this video is very useful other than „you might want to get one, a short one, that can take some abuse, that can be cheap“. It would be far more interesting to learn about „Handling“ (clipping, friction etc), „catch (impact force)“, durability (how long will it perform well, does it crangle etc) and maybe weight and value. You could pick one winner in each category and an „overall“ winner.
Isn't that what he effectively did in the video, just didn't say it explicitly, he recommended different ropes which were the best in the categories he mentioned...
Fair point but I don’t think they went far enough in talking about the pros and cons of those ropes. I had the impression, that they didn’t even test those ropes but basically took the informations from the rope description. I missed some general points as well, like bigger diameter ropes might not run smoothly through many belay devices, especially if they got „fluffy“ already. Another point might be, what you do with a 40m, let alone 30m rope if you have to cut, throw away? Better get a 50m rope, which you can cut twice before you have to get rid of it, that expands it lifespan significantly. They also failed to mention, that a dry treatment also increases its abrasion resistance, what makes it way more durable. No word about sheath slippage, crangle, impact force (you definitely want a rope with a low impact force rating indoors if you take many falls, if you don’t have a very experienced belayer that mastered dynamic belaying)
Why are episodes getting more and more commercial everytime? I appreciate reviews, but this looks like the goal is to make newbies spend more money on gear
Absolutely second this. I cut my old 70m outdoor rope short two times and will now use it as an 50m indoor rope for a bit more before retiring it. 9.8 workhorses (Edelrid parrot was great for me, not dry treated or anything) all the way. I won't pretend I climb at grades where a 9.8mm would be "too thick" for climbing outdoors
In switzerland best option would be a 50m rope, because some gyms the overhang is pretty long. Means no acsess with a 40m rope
I just bought the pink mamut workhorse last week for the gym. I really love it especially the color and how it stands out. This video really made me feel validated in my purchase. I labeled one side hot and the other side cold with a marker so I can easily see which side I climbed on last and make sure to rotate it around every time I climb to preserve the longevity of it. I wish I had done the same with my 70m outdoor rope!
what marker and where did you label it, may I ask?
Not to sure why someone would get an indoor rope that you wouldn't use outside as opposed to getting a rope that can be used outside and obviously inside as well.
if you climb A LOT, it makes more sense. For me, I just use my "used up" short (60m) outdoor-lead rope indoors now and got a replacement for outdoors. It's a matter of personal taste and necessity in the end, I think.
Solid recommendations👍the last outdoor rope video I bought the tendon smartlite 9.9 you recommend, and I have been on the hunt for a affordable indoor rope and I just scooped up the edelrid. Glad to support you guys across the pond
Just invested in the Zenith 9.5mm from your shop on the basis of the low impact force rating, this is something I would love to see you cover along with other recommendations specifically aimed at young climbers. My son has just turned 7 and loves lead climbing, his coach said to make sure we invest in a low impact rope for when he takes a whipper but I wonder what other factors (and gear) we should consider for our younger climbers?
Back in the day I'd have said a top-rope rope and a dynamic rope were different, with significantly less stretch in a top rope - many gyms use static.
Care to comment on the lead fall vs. top roping compromise Tendon have made?
Basically if I'm leading I want a rope designed solely for leading, and forget top rope. Lets face it, most gyms the top-rope ropes are theirs and fixed in place anyway.
I am not expert at all but l think that outside rope is better because you can use inside and outside. Right? Or inside is prohibited to use outside rope ?
Thanx for the video. Interesting one.
The background music sample is kinda annoying though, too repetitive.
Good gear show as usual.
PMI Ropes Gym Pro 10.6mm is the one!
Never considered buying an indoor rope. All the gyms that I have been to have their own that you can use for top roping or lead climbing. I am sorry but even after watching the video a second time I still don't understand why I would need to buy one. Did I miss something ? Am I just lucky that my gyms propose them ?
My gym requires you to take your own rope with you if you want to climb the lead climbing walls. You can use the toprope rope for lead climbing on the toprope walls.
All walls i climb at require you to take your own rope for lead climbs, which is why you need one. The reasons for an indoor and outdoor rope he talks about in the video. If your gym supplies you a rope for lead and you're comfortable using it then nice. Save a bit of cash.
Been to several dozen gyms, and the vast majority do not supply. Further, there are limited amounts of ropes available, thus I’ve always brought one or a partner would.
You have to rent a ropr to lead with at my gym and you a required to use a grigri so if you don't have one you also have to rent that. Buying the gear pays for itself in my case pretty fast.
The gym I frequent does not have ropes for lead, only for top rope. So if you want to lead you need to bring a rope.
Great video 💪
When is the red chile mythic shoe review Matt was going to show soon (he said in Monday’s video)
I wanted to buy some of these products from your website but $79 for shipping 😟
I got an outdoor rope, thicc AF to handle projects outdoors. Indoors i rent a rope
Well to be honest I don't see the usefulness of an indoor rope
Just borrow the one that is top roping at the gym or ask to the staff if they have lead ropes to rent or smth
I've had several climbers I respect (one's an instructor who runs outdoor trips frequently) tell me that dry treated ropes are a gimmick to add value to the rope. Thoughts?
dry ropes are good for alpine. It's shiny as well, if you take it to the gym
There is a video by Mammut (available on youtube) that shows very clearly, that dry treated ropes can take way more abuse. So I use a dry treated one even for indoor climbing. My Petzl Volta rope with fully treated core and sheath still is in an amazing shape after one year of climbing in- and outdoor (once a week-ish).
Most dry treatments, such as the Mammut treatment mentioned, add enough longevity to a rope to balance the increased cost (and reduces waste) if not intending to climb in alpine or adventuresome conditions. For folks which are, dry treatments are tested and printed on the packaging and significantly reduce water absorption which would negatively influence weight (by a kg), handling (by half a mm), and elongation (in half or more). For folks which are not, water on the rock tends to spoil the session, thus is not essential, but again adds good durability if you can put the cost upfront.
Now bipattern ropes, those are ridiculously expensive and less effective than a maintained middle mark.
Sheath dry treatment is useful for for keeping out contaminants if you live in a dry and sandy area, also helps keep out aluminum oxide, extending the rope life. Doesnt usually add much to the cost of the rope either. Full dry (sheath and core) is only useful for ice climbing.
@@AW-po7jr any rope should be in amazing shape after only one year of weekly use
A lot of gyms in the US, and all the ones near me, offer free ropes to members. Might as well save the money and the wear on my own kit
For lead?!?
@@Chris-de2qc yep. just go to the desk and ask for a rope at most us gyms
I would not buy an rope that is thicker than 9.5mm. The rope is going to be "fluffy" an than its not fitting really nice threw my belay device. Wenn the rope diameter is small there is more "space"... I bought my last rope, the beal joker 9.1 in the 80m edition in Arco for 145€... When the ends are going to be used out, than i can easily shorten it to 70m or later to 45m for pure indoor climbing.
An amazing rope but I would not buy it because it has a high impact force rating. I had a very hard fall and tore a muscle, since then I prefer more „soft catch“ ropes
While I agree for outdoor purposes, the handling is negligible indoors. Never had a redpoint ruined inside due to rope, as a competent belayer can compensate.
Cacovangor fair enough
Although I'm an avid fan of this channel, I didn't really enjoy this video.
For those of you who are confused: If your gym does not have lead ropes or you just want your own, then it might be worth considering getting a dedicated gym rope that might take more abuse and falls than an outdoor rope. 'Gym ropes' can be a lot cheaper than 'outdoor ropes,' and some people prefer not to add the wear and tear to their more expensive outdoor ropes. Indoor ropes can be slightly thicker/more durable and in the 35-50m length range, as opposed to 60/70m. Check with your gym what the minimum length rope is allowed. I made the mistake of buying a 35m and then moved to a gym that requires 40m. oof.
tl;dr Buy the cheapest gym rope (NEW) that you can find, while making sure that it can fit comfortably into the belay device you use and long enough for the routes in your gymm
I definitely need one
9A? Cmon Matt it's the 9B counter for you!
6:28
Some say length isn't everything 🤣
Is it only my gym that lets you borrow a lead rope for free? They actually prohibit people at my gym from using their own gear
STERLING ALL DAY!!
No offense, but tendon ropes are garbage. Terrible life span, love to pigtail. Mammut ropes are great on the other hand.