Free Mod for your SAAB! | Bypass Valve Mod
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- čas přidán 13. 08. 2024
- Did you know about this mod? Do you guys feel a difference? Let me know in the comments!
Vacuum Cap: amzn.to/3gLvQhI
More info/discussion about this mod:
- www.saabcentral.com/threads/h...
- trolltuner.com/?p=219
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BWTECH videos are for entertainment purposes only. We assume no liability for property damage or injury as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information provided at your own risk. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Okay you do need those hoses connected and the bypass valve working to specification, which becomes fairly obvious if you know what the thing actually does. It's not quite so much to make the car quieter and smoother in town driving, it's to stop you running up the back of someone in traffic. What it does is when you throttle and spool the turbo, the boost pressure builds and when you let off the throttle the boost is still present and has to go somewhere so it forces the throttle valve open, even though your foot is off the pedal. A correctly working bypass valve is designed to send the boost somewhere else when you shut the throttle. The bypass valve opens via the controller as soon as it gets the signal from the throttle body, sending the residual boost from the spooled turbo out the bypass instead of into the manifold to hold the throttle valve open even though your foot is off the pedal.
That's basically all it does. Stops you from running up the back of someone in stop/start traffic with a boost-sticky throttle. You may not notice this in casual driving but in stop/start traffic if you spool and sudden stop you'll get a sticky throttle lag which causes collisions if you're not quick to compensate. It is only designed to function when there is positive boost and the throttle snaps shut, otherwise it doesn't do anything. It doesn't influence acceleration or spooling, it doesn't limit maximum boost, it doesn't do anything else except that one thing.
However a byproduct of a functioning bypass valve is preserving the turbo and some other components and the original factory turbos don't have a very long life between overhauls so they could use the help.
If you disconnect the hoses it no longer functions. That is just bad results all round. Bad for the motor, bad for avoiding traffic collisions, doesn't improve performance in any way. All you did was break something the engine needs and so now requires fixing. Also I think it makes the T7 engine controller have a brain fart and messes with engine management when it isn't functioning correctly. If it seems to run differently when you go disconnecting the hoses, maybe you put into limp mode which, no doesn't mean it doesn't go good but does mean none of the engine management functions designed to improve VE and preserve engine components are going to be working.
Listen, don't do urban myth home mods. Save a couple of months wages, it's really not expensive, I just bought a factory ecopower 2.3T (220hp) so swapped in an Aero turbo, bigger intercooler and a Saab licensed Hirsch 305hp tune. Instant sleeper, the whole thing was cheap and easy and every factory component still functions perfectly. It'll even pass an emissions test and inspection by any authorities as a dealer optioned package and if it was a brand new car it wouldn't even void the warranty. Trust me 305hp/310ft-lbs is no joke for a daily streeter.
Do that, don't do these disconnecting factory equipment in the driveway mods.
My other car is the actual project car, in the avatar the Mercedes 190E with a 285hp N/A iron block six which started out at 160hp. What a lot of people do with the old Bosch Jetronic on those is bridge or remove a resistor that governs the ignition advance for local fuel grade, the urban myth is that it limits advance and bridging or deleting it unlocks more ignition advance for better throttle response. It's total placebo and in fact simply places the injection system into workshop test mode, not intended for regular driving. What you need to do is either piggyback a standalone ECU with a Jetronic interface module like Franken-CIS or else convert the engine to full EFI and tune it properly for the mods you want to do, like I had to. There's no other way to actually modify the factory ignition curve correctly but people still think this driveway mod will do that.
There's lots of urban myths about simple driveway mods for more power and they're all myths, most either hurt your engine or hurt your wallet when a cop sees them and none of them actually improve performance in any qualitive way. If you are going to do it, just know that what you're doing is simply giving yourself a learning experience but not really achieving much else.
Wtf are are you talking bout
He’s saying do actual mods, not just changing around the factory hose placement. A tune alone will show you what a real power gain is especially on these cars if your 06 and up in my case
The B235L (220hp) and The B235R (250/260hp) have the same Mitsubishi td04 turbo so there is no need to swap turbos. Only difference is in the tune. The B235E (170/185hp) on the other hand uses a garrett gt17 turbo. The B205E (150hp) also has the gt17 turbo but I don't think you got that engine overseas
@@rikardandersson7288 I have a 1999 2.3t, are you saying that my turbo could need a swap unlike the newer engine?
@@heloikrenaud5626 if it's a 1999 lpt then it should have the 170hp engine. There are some differences between the early b235e (170hp) and b235r, mainly in the valves. Nimonic exhaust valves or somethinglike that i believe. But the short answer is yes, you could swap over the turbo and coolant/oil feeds for the turbo since those are different between the different turbos.
I believe that is the standard procedure when Genuinesaab does an in-house tune on an NG. They did it on my Vig when they went st3. That needle just flops into the red whenever you plant it, shredding tires as it goes. 🤣🤣
Love your car!
get a open airfilter and you can hear a difference, i did not so much notice any response difference but i could hear that it changed the bov sound, but it was very subtle, not very loud
I got one now! I did a video on it too 😄
Good video and I was wondering if this would work on my 2007 saab 9-3? Anyway Happy Valentine's Day and hope to hear back from you.
Thanks Philip!
The 07 9-3 is on a totally different engine management system so this method will not work. I'm sure it can work since this concept isn't unique to this engine, but I'm not sure where all the equivalent vacuum hoses and controller is. Sorry!
@@BWTECH0521 thanks for replying and keep up the good work
There is a way to get more power on these the vacuumed pipe going to your engine at the front pull it off the engine and blank the pipe
Tube from the from some were down.... Should connected to the cabin heater water valve. At least is in alot of the Saab95. There's illustrations on tbe web
Cool mod ! I know this one makes better throttle! (As well as intake mod) congrats !! 😎
Good to hear it from the saab master 🙌 👌
I've always been skeptical about this.
On my stage 3 2006 aero it didn't seem to make any difference.
But on my 02 aero I can Deffo feel the difference
I'm doing a oil can catch instsllation on my '02 9-3 2.0 SE, a video on that topic could be usefull. Cheers!
That is not the only thing to do. Need to reset ECU. Extract de fuse N 7 wait for 10. Seca. And put it on again.
Fuse N 17, not 7. Mistake writing forgot 1. Reseting Trionic is when mod works completely fine and fast throotle response is ok
So i must have an even older system as mine js way smaller and only 2 hose come off it one to a thing on the coolent and other side is t piece from bov to throttle body ?
This may sound a bit off topic. I removed the shifter boot on my 9-5 and it doesn’t clip back on to the center console pls help
Hey saab guy! There isn't much to it, it should just clip back in with some force. Assuming it's a manual transmission
@@BWTECH0521 yes it's a manual but, weirdly enough it doesn't wanna clip in
@@Comrade420_ I have one saab that with shifter knob that i cn pull out any time, but one i cant pull out at all
Sorry may be a silly question but once you've plugged the throttle body, what do you do with the hose that's connected to the valve? Take it off and plug that too or let it vent to atmosphere? Thanks.
Yup, that hose is no longer needed. Not a silly question at all! It was confusing when I tried to get it all in my head lol
@@BWTECH0521 so plug both throttle body and the other end?
@@jackjones4996 no need to plug the other end, it goes to the controller which is no longer being used.
Here is the exact mod that Genuinesaab people do, just written out - trolltuner.com/?p=219
Hope it helps :)
So first time hearing of this I have a 18psi blow off valve I wonder how it will work with that? I will let you guys know.
Saabs don't like blow off valves, unless you have a ng900 or a 1999 9-3!
@@BWTECH0521 it’s an 97 900se
If you have a 9-5 Biopower this should NOT be done as it fuckes up the adaptation
In a gasoline only car it works tho
It's me again... after changing the diverter valve to a posh metal one, every now and again i get a CEL or code P1110 vacume issue...... will this mod eliminate this issue...?
Hey! I don't think this will eliminate a vacuum leak. For that you need to make sure all your check valves are not faulty. I have a video on that too. Other people do too. Look for saab vacume leak videos!
Thanks for fast reply... but i can't have a leak because i replaced the stock one and have run around for the past 5 months or so with no EML, i changed back to the new one and the EML came on.. ? is it a faulty after market part, or is the ECU being finicky , and i was thinking if you are blocking of the vacume at the throttle would this mod stop the EML..?
What Bout fuel use? Does it get higher or lower? Or the same?
I didn't notice a significant change
Does anyone know if this works on the Saab 9-5 V6 3.0t ?
It should since it's the same setup. I also have 02 9⁵ 3.0T gonna try when it warms up.
Hey.... this looks like a great mod, but...i'm not dumb or anything but i lost the plot after you plugged the Throttle..? do you just leave that hose or remove it from the controller..? and do i plug the controller..? the video is proberbly really straight forward but just not seeing it... can you explain a bit more.. sorry... i am from Brum.!
hey! It can be a little confusing. Maybe you can check out some of the other write ups other people did to give you another perspective?
www.saabcentral.com/threads/how-to-bypass-valve-hose-mod.206993/
or
trolltuner.com/?p=219
@@BWTECH0521 Ta...!
Can i do this even if i have deleted and blocked the bov?
Honestly, I didn't even know saabs can run right with a bov, let alone a blocked one.
@@BWTECH0521 it runs fine but i mean the recirculating one. get a check engine light but for that sound you get its worth it😊 I run a stage 4 maptun biopower so it sounds Great with the full 3 inch exhaust and open air 🤪. I just turn the light off on the yearly inspection in sweden 😁
How to if you want to try 😊.
1: Take off the recirculated bov
2: plug the holes and even the vaccum hose. Enjoy the sound 😊
Do you plug the controller as well ?
no, the controller technically doesn't do anything after this. But it should still be left there so the car doesn't do anything funny.
Hey nice video I will definitely try it in the near future but hey im really stuck right now I need all 6 front subframe bolts for 99 og 9-3 thats in good shape I can't find any here in the scrap yard if you can find them for me it will be a blessing I also want to talk about maybe a car club hmu
Have you checked esaabparts.com? Assuming you're in the US
@@BWTECH0521 yes they're out of stock