How to safely port your diesel heater exhaust through a wall
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2024
- This is how I plumbed the exhaust from my diesel heater through a 3" flue thimble using a stainless steel exterior port. I have ran this for nearly 7 hours on high with no heat transfer to the wall materials. This heater is able to maintain a comfortable temperature in my 2 car insulated garage, just don't expect it to rapidly bring a frozen garage up to 70 degrees quickly!
Links:
SILVEL Diesel Heater
a.co/d/8T8m095
Exhaust Port
a.co/d/gN9twTZ
30 Amp Power Supply
a.co/d/653lonL
Ceramic Fiber Insulation
a.co/d/bvtpXgS
3" Wall Thimble
a.co/d/eOJz2j1
5" Flue Cap
a.co/d/10SlzPk - Jak na to + styl
I have one of these. It is a good idea to move the pump so it is more vertical. They say the pumps mounted horizontal don't last as long. I extended my pump wires so I could mount it near vertical.
Super Clean, Safe and a great idea.
Well Done.
Thank you for this! Giving me some ideas.
If the garage is not air tight then no point having the combustion intake outside. That's why on my set up left it inside..
I have a roller dooor so draft always comes in making it ventilated
Isn’t there potential for a condensation problem with the low point of your exhaust pipe? The outlet being higher than the rest of the pipe, I would be concerned that it will eventually fill with water and cause issues. Maybe consider raising the heater so that any condensation will drain out the end outside. My 2 cents. I really like the thimble installation. Cheers
The exhaust pipe would have to be cool enough to allow condensation. It is way to short to cool enough.
I watched a video recently where a van dweller had the tip of his exhaust on a very short pipe filling with water and causing issues because he had the end too high for it to drain. Maybe you’re ok if the heater run all the time
@@billmoore5177 Rain or road spray perhaps instead of "condensation?"
The problem with using those power supplies is if you lose power you won't get a proper shutdown. It's best to use a battery with a trickle charger, but what are the chances of you running this and losing power...?
I'm going to alter my exhaust design to use that 3" thimble with insulation, looks much safer. You could increase efficiency by porting your combustion intake from outside as well. If you don't you are creating negative pressure in your garage and cold air from outside will find its way in.
Very true on the power failure point. I considered keeping the booster pack close in the unlikely event that happened. Combustion air was a concern as well but I have a few air leaks already with the loose seal on the garage door and drop down attic ladder. Using up the oxygen would be a consideration in a smaller space but I figured my air leaks would provide enough make-up air.
@@sbbox230 Yes, having a battery power supply is best for ensuring against a power failure, but as you mention that you're only planning to heat the space from time to time, you're likely to be present in case of power loss and can quickly attach your jump pack to let the heater clean/cool itself, so I don't see that as a real concern in your instance. I think what DryUrEyes was eluding to re. the combustion air intake not be routed externally is not an O2 level concern, but that you are essentially running an exhaust fan to the outdoors while trying to heat the space. You're consuming the air your trying to heat and constantly replacing it with unheated air through the leaks in the structure, more of an efficiency loss than a safety issue. Excellent install video which provides competent instruction for avoiding many of the common safety mistakes some folks don't realize when installing these units. Super clean look too! Thanks for sharing!
As soon as it looses power, and when re connected to power
It will go throught start up when the button is pressed. It has no idea where it's at in the running sequence.
Very nice setup going outside. Been wondering how it could be done and you've answered that! I have one question. How did you get the 5" cap inside a 3" thimble?.
So a 3" thimble is made to go over double wall "B" pipe (it's already over sized). Then you have extra diameter (air gap) between the pipe and the inside of the thimble. I just did a little trial and error until I ended up with this. Hope that helps!
How big is your garage and ceiling height and what temp can you get it to when it's 20 to 40 degrees outside?
My ceiling is just over 9' and I believe the garage is about 22' square. I haven't done much testing but there have been a couple days where I kicked it on with temps in the 20 degree range and the heater warmed it to around 50 within about an hour. Important thing to remember when heating a cold garage is everything out there including the concrete floor acts as a thermal battery, however once everything is up to temp, I've noticed it takes way less effort to maintain a comfortable temp.