Still working on this thing, but it's getting better. May just never be the sword for me, though. Ah, well. Call it the Cold Steel 1796 "Lighter" Cavalry Saber?
dedication to your craft is impressive my friend...still a great looking sword to look at...glad you were able to improve to your needs...great, great job Michael 👍
very nice I got this and the polish saber , the polish saber (from cold steel) is heavyer but feels a lot lighter because it has the point of balance closer to the handle I would love to see a cut test after you reshape this one
Good upgrade. 2 lbs is probably a good weight. For combat, maybe curvature drawing the sword out before the cut exits the other side is actually a good thing, as your blade wouldn't get stuck in the hypothetical opponent's collarbone etc. Cuttingwise, I know what you mean about when you expect the blade to contact via the curve depth, and how that's a very particular expectation in the cut. For depth of range when cutting closer to the monouchi, I find for myself that extending my elbow through the cut gives me a good 6" of greater range across a long line, particularly for inward horizontals and upwards. Could just be a matter of technique adjustment, not treating it like a katana, which it's not. Another good video, btw, entertaining stuff and enjoyed hearing about your modification.
I'm sure my issues with the curvature are just me, because all the swords I'm comfortable with range from 27-32" blades that are straight or slightly curved (even the Willow Leaf Dao is mostly just curved at the tip). The greater curve definitely makes sense for cavalry application, like a Tachi with an extreme Koshi Sori so you slash through while moving at horse speed and don't get your sword ripped out of your hand. I'm certainly going to keep working on it.
I am thinking of buying a 1796 light calvary saber (LCS) real soon at a good price. I think you and I are similar in that we appreciate sophisticated, civilian type weapons such as rapiers, smallswords, and spadroons which usually do not weigh 2 pounds. Do you find the LCS too heavy and cumbersome compared to the before mentioned ones? I really want to know before I buy it...
Completely different. It's not the weight, it's the 8.25" point of balance, two or three times further out than I'd like, making it feel like an ax. Add in that extreme curve and every time the edge strays from vertical it twists the sword in my hands (so: a badly bent ax). Some folks love these. Even reprofiling the blade to remove a few ounces and push the POB back to 7" doesn't make me appreciate it. Just not my thing, I guess.
@@michaelrizzo5523 Sounds like this sword would be quite unwieldy for any precise attacks (yikes). Glad I got your reply before buying. I will look for a much lighter curved saber. Thanks again!
@@dcfmkyn you should check the new Windlass 1796 light cavalry saber, made with Matt Easton.. there's a video about it on his channel, pretty recently. It should be very different from Cold Steel one. Very accurate replica. I ordered one and should have it this month.
Since I've spent so much time working that edge I have a sense (usually) of how much straight pressure I can risk, but any unexpected little slicing action will get me during handling, sanding, polishing, etc. (I always do my sanding and grinding with my bare hands on the blade, which is probably dangerous as hell and not recommended, but it lets me feel if the steel starts to get too hot and needs cooling.)
You’ll see a lot of blade grabbing in old fight books. You grab your own for half swording. The edge is less nasty than the steel splinters that peel off as soon as there is steel on steel contact. A burr can chew you up too and glad to say I’ve never grabbed one of those.
They definitely balanced that one incorrectly. Ive held a few real ones & that last third should be almost machete thin, while the base at the guard should be around 6- 8mm. Which concentrates a lot of that weight around the fist. That's always been my biggest criticism of Cold Steel & almost every other maker of reproductions. They act like they never even heard if distal taper & their starting blade stock thickness is too thin.
I've got it the way I like it now but really had to shave down the distal taper, wound up taking 5oz off the blade and moving the POB from 8.25" to 6.6". Flex is in the top third where it should be.
I have the same problem with this sword. It handles like a crowbar. If I had to face an apocalypse with this sword I'd have to take my 14 inch buckler as the blade is too heavy to recover quickly from big swings.
Suited for whacking people from the back of a galloping horse as you pass, I suppose, but it would be tiring. I've improved mine a bit by removing a significant amount of steel from the blade.
@@genuinelyconcerned3504 Unfortunately I spent days on my 4x36" sander making whole new edge planes, then finished with sanding blocks. I also re-cut the tip.
@@michaelrizzo5523 I have to admit mine arrived in excellent condition its just very top heavy and unbalanced. I may shave some off the back with my dremel. I've avoided it so far because I was considering parting with it.
dedication to your craft is impressive my friend...still a great looking sword to look at...glad you were able to improve to your needs...great, great job Michael 👍
very nice I got this and the polish saber , the polish saber (from cold steel) is heavyer but feels a lot lighter because it has the point of balance closer to the handle I would love to see a cut test after you reshape this one
And thanks for your true and honest reviews!!!!
I like this type of very curved sabers
Good upgrade. 2 lbs is probably a good weight.
For combat, maybe curvature drawing the sword out before the cut exits the other side is actually a good thing, as your blade wouldn't get stuck in the hypothetical opponent's collarbone etc. Cuttingwise, I know what you mean about when you expect the blade to contact via the curve depth, and how that's a very particular expectation in the cut.
For depth of range when cutting closer to the monouchi, I find for myself that extending my elbow through the cut gives me a good 6" of greater range across a long line, particularly for inward horizontals and upwards. Could just be a matter of technique adjustment, not treating it like a katana, which it's not.
Another good video, btw, entertaining stuff and enjoyed hearing about your modification.
I'm sure my issues with the curvature are just me, because all the swords I'm comfortable with range from 27-32" blades that are straight or slightly curved (even the Willow Leaf Dao is mostly just curved at the tip). The greater curve definitely makes sense for cavalry application, like a Tachi with an extreme Koshi Sori so you slash through while moving at horse speed and don't get your sword ripped out of your hand. I'm certainly going to keep working on it.
I call mine my 1796 light Cavalry crowbar....
I feel the exact same way. Unwieldy, tip heavy, everything. May try to do something similar as far as removing steel from mine.
Really bent crowbar.
Nice film. More about fencing and historic sabre ... szablotłuk polski
Thanks! I'll probably show more swordsmanship but I'm afraid any skill at Polish saber is beyond my poor mangled hand.
I’ve had one since 2016. Same take. I have not tried to modify it-I’ve thought of doing what you did
Still fine tuning mine.
I am thinking of buying a 1796 light calvary saber (LCS) real soon at a good price. I think you and I are similar in that we appreciate sophisticated, civilian type weapons such as rapiers, smallswords, and spadroons which usually do not weigh 2 pounds. Do you find the LCS too heavy and cumbersome compared to the before mentioned ones? I really want to know before I buy it...
Completely different. It's not the weight, it's the 8.25" point of balance, two or three times further out than I'd like, making it feel like an ax. Add in that extreme curve and every time the edge strays from vertical it twists the sword in my hands (so: a badly bent ax). Some folks love these. Even reprofiling the blade to remove a few ounces and push the POB back to 7" doesn't make me appreciate it. Just not my thing, I guess.
@@michaelrizzo5523 Sounds like this sword would be quite unwieldy for any precise attacks (yikes). Glad I got your reply before buying. I will look for a much lighter curved saber. Thanks again!
@@dcfmkyn you should check the new Windlass 1796 light cavalry saber, made with Matt Easton.. there's a video about it on his channel, pretty recently.
It should be very different from Cold Steel one. Very accurate replica. I ordered one and should have it this month.
Wondering is,your,hand made of steel, I saw you hit the edge against your palm and saw no blood....lol..????
Since I've spent so much time working that edge I have a sense (usually) of how much straight pressure I can risk, but any unexpected little slicing action will get me during handling, sanding, polishing, etc. (I always do my sanding and grinding with my bare hands on the blade, which is probably dangerous as hell and not recommended, but it lets me feel if the steel starts to get too hot and needs cooling.)
You’ll see a lot of blade grabbing in old fight books. You grab your own for half swording. The edge is less nasty than the steel splinters that peel off as soon as there is steel on steel contact. A burr can chew you up too and glad to say I’ve never grabbed one of those.
They definitely balanced that one incorrectly. Ive held a few real ones & that last third should be almost machete thin, while the base at the guard should be around 6- 8mm. Which concentrates a lot of that weight around the fist. That's always been my biggest criticism of Cold Steel & almost every other maker of reproductions. They act like they never even heard if distal taper & their starting blade stock thickness is too thin.
I've got it the way I like it now but really had to shave down the distal taper, wound up taking 5oz off the blade and moving the POB from 8.25" to 6.6". Flex is in the top third where it should be.
I have the same problem with this sword. It handles like a crowbar. If I had to face an apocalypse with this sword I'd have to take my 14 inch buckler as the blade is too heavy to recover quickly from big swings.
Suited for whacking people from the back of a galloping horse as you pass, I suppose, but it would be tiring. I've improved mine a bit by removing a significant amount of steel from the blade.
@@michaelrizzo5523 what did you use to remove the steel? Would a dremel be suitable?
@@genuinelyconcerned3504 Unfortunately I spent days on my 4x36" sander making whole new edge planes, then finished with sanding blocks. I also re-cut the tip.
@@michaelrizzo5523 I have to admit mine arrived in excellent condition its just very top heavy and unbalanced. I may shave some off the back with my dremel.
I've avoided it so far because I was considering parting with it.
@@genuinelyconcerned3504 Let me know if you get it handling better. Good luck!
Buy an original ;)
I think if I took to it better I definitely would, but so far I'm loving straight cut-and-thrust swords more.