I was going to take my wife to dinner last night but Old Agnes had different plans. So this morning I followed your steps. Yep! bad coil wire. Agnes is up and running!
Hello Paul. The only time my '30 quit running was when the pop-out cable from the distributor to the switch went bad. Luckily I broke down right across the road from an old engine shop. Some old guys came running out and figured out the problem pretty quick. They pulled a cable off a car that was in the pile behind the shop, and boom, I was back on the road. Free, no charge, they were glad to help. That was 1985 and all the "old guys" were still around who knew this stuff, darn I miss those guys. I guess we're the "old guys" now---ha-ha. Thanks, keep up the good work !!!
A similar experience happened to me. My first job was at a DOD contractor called AAI Corp. I didn't have a car yet so the guy across worked there too. He became my transportation. The problem was his '55 Ford didn't idle very well. a miss would appear any time the engine was idling. When the speed increased, the miss went away. So as you know, I just had to see what the problem was, I asked the guy if I dould take a look to see if I could maybe fix this situation. After opening the hood and starting the car, the problem was right in front of me. Someone had stuck a nail in the boot of #1 plug, I guess to hook up a timing light but didn't remove the nail afterwards. When the engine was idling, the nail would short out to the block causing the plug to not fire. Surprisingly the plug fired right up after the nail was removed and the mystery was solved. The guy couldn't believe it and thank me. BTW, he was a test tech at work, you'd think that he would find it.
Whenever you have a starting problem use the kiss method. KEEP IT SIMPLE. This podcast proves it! Thank you again Paul for a great way to do it. Best wishes to you, Tina and Bob. From the deep south in the far north.
Awesome video, This should be a requirement of education prior to purchasing a Model A Ford because what you showed is Exactly the method of madness that you need to know.Thank you Mr Shinn for this video.
Paul, Dad was a Model A guy. He restored one, and has owned several over the years. He told me of a legend that a Model A engine can take off running, simply by turning (and popping out) the key to the on position without hitting the starter. He told me that he’s heard of it happening but only seen it happen once in his lifetime. I’m assuming that it has to do with when the engine is shut off, the crank position has to end up in the EXACT position with one or more of the pistons having a compressed charge of fuel along with the distributor being at the exact position to cause a spark in one or more of those cylinders when turning the key on. Ever seen, or heard of this happening? I’m not sure I believe it myself. However if someone (hint hint) could recreate the conditions for this to happen or play “Mythbusters” on this folklore perhaps we could put this Myth to rest? Thoughts??? Thank You in advance!
Yea. if everything is just right, and you advance the spark lever with the key on and the spark ignites the exact air/fuel , etc. It's like hitting the lotto.
Excellent primer on what to do. Will add a meter to my tool bag. My 30 Sport Coupe died on me on the way to a club meeting. 4 more "A"s came up the same road in a few minutes. Couple of master mechanics and in 5 minutes diagnosed my ignition switch as the problem. Screw was stripped. Tightened it and was on my way. put a new one in, no problem since then. This is just helping me for the next time "Vilma" (a famous silent movie star) won't start. Thanks.
Awesome video, long needed and very well explained. BTW, I always learned air, fuel, spark, and COMPRESSION. You hope you never have to deal with the last one, but I have in the past (not on my Model A though!). Thanks again for all these great videos.
I LOVE Model A Fords! What a wonderful video, I am working on three going on four of these sweet cars at this moment. Thank you for helping keep these beautiful cars going!
I got a drive a A for the first time today. And let me to you, the guys at the gym can stop lifting weights, I've got to perfect workout for them. I'm hooked more than ever though. Feels like driving and old tractor and I loved every minute of it. I'm so glad I joined a club, even without a car, and it's all thanks to you. I hope you have a good week Paul, I'll be out for a while, I get married next Saturday and I'll be honeymooning the Saturday after that. Take care!
I have a 1928 and it's converted to 12v. I'm having a problem getting it to start. I have been having a carb problem and knew it was going to need rebuilding, but it always starts. It doesn't even act like it's firing any fuel now. I just want to make absolutely that I'm getting spark to the plugs. Thanks for your videos and explaining things you're doing.
I am working on my deceased father-in-law's 1931 Model A Cabriolet. It has not been started in 20 years. As per your suggestion, I watched the Hooptie playlist, fluid changes & lube. I set distributor timing, but did not rebuild distributor or Zenith carburetor (parts are on order). I installed a new 6V battery. I then went through the How to Start video, and gave it a shot. Slow crank, no start. I went through the handshake process again with the same results. Then, on to this Troubleshooting a Model A That Won't Start video. Fuse on the starter is OK. With key on, horn and lights didn't work. The Amp gauge didn't move at all when cranking. Air items check OK. Gas checks OK. Spark check; coil checks OK, and Terminal box checks OK. With key on and coil wire on the head, no spark when shorting points to ground. This may be secondary to the Amp meter not moving at the start of the troubleshooting process. I thought maybe the ignition switch might be defective. I checked continuity between the two terminals on the back of the switch. With key off, no continuity. With key on, no continuity. I jumped the two wires on the back of the switch - crank, no start, and no movement in the Amp meter. I have to resolve the spark issue before a rebuilt carb or distributor will be of use. I am at a loss.
Hi Erik. Start by tracing the electrical path from the battery cable on the starter through the terminal box, ammeter, ignition switch, distributor lower plate. Put one lead of your voltmeter on the battery lug to ground. if you have 6 volts, move to the junction box on the firewall. if you have 6 volts there, move to ammeter. etc.
Thank you for sharing this video. I’m curious if you cover what to do if there is no voltage when testing with the points open. That’s where I’m stuck now.
Paul, You exhibited excellent troubleshooting skills in this episode, must be the Navy training. Nice Simpson 260, circuit breaker, and rolltop too. As a kid I purchased the model 270 that looks the same but with the mirrored scale. However it's in a cardboard box because I had a whoops dam bakelite case.
Thanks Paul good stuff ! Wish me luck got a call back from a guy selling a 1930 A Roadster . Tryed to fine you and your Dads cars for sale ! Cant find them ! This will be my first A and never driven one before but time is runing out for me in my 70s why wait ! I have look at a lot of yours videos and others ! Live Life ! Mike Will call him today !!!!!!
Hi Paul, thank you for very informative video. I have the same model but do not the proper way to start. could you please explain the steps to start the car from inside the car.
Just found a great channel thank you!! Got my 1929 model 2 days ago. Fuel indicator does not work but I learned from you how to repair it. Parts here soon. Thanks. My windshield wiper will not work. I found a lose exposed wire just behind the rearview mirror. Is there a site you can send me to that will tell me how to check the wiring. I do not have a wiring diagram. Thank you for you time. Ed Abbevill, S.C.
Hey Paul, thanks for the videos learning so much, but when are you going to be doing the rewire on the jaloppy, im in the middle of rewiring mine just need a little guidance 😀, thanks again from up the hill in auburn
Congrats on the fix. That issue could have turned into an intermittent one. For us DYI channels, it's fun when a real life problem turns into a video opportunity.
The first 56 sec......arms folded, head down on the wheel......Arggggg.....it won't start!! (I have better things to do today than this!!) Boy, did that ring true!! had to laugh. Thanks!
My question of the day. I'm at my wit's end. My '30 won't start. After just buying it, not running, I did a few things to it and got it going. It was running great, although I haven't been able to drive it yet , but it started running worse and worse and then would die. This continued for several days until it decided to not start at all. Starter fluid would not even get a cough so I don't think it's a fuel problem. Your tip to check the ammeter twitching while cranking shows nothing at all. The car has a Bert's distributor with a wireless lower plate and I've replaced the modern points and condenser to no avail. The coil shows to be good, spark plugs look good, and I've replaced the bad ignition switch. I'm pretty much running out of ideas. Wouldn't you just love to come to Atlanta to make a video on the most annoying Model A on Earth?
I absolutely LOVE the south! I would drop in there in a heartbeat. However, the staff at work is relying on me so..... I'm going to guess here, probably wrong... I'm guessing the points closed up. Or the electrical connection to the distributor is flaky. Those wireless lower plates and "modern" condensers are the first thing I rip out when a Model A comes into my shop as a non-runner. Stock condenser and distributor plates gets them going 99% of the time.
@@ModelA Thank you so much for responding. I took my weekly 30 minute drive up I-85 to Mike's A Fordable this am and picked up a few more items. Long story short, she's running now! I'm not sure what did it, but I'm just happy to have made forward progress on it.
My 1931 Tudor won't start. Just watched your video and will run through your checklist soon. Right now, I think it's a weak battery. Although the horn works, the starter will only turn slowly once or twice before it stops. Can't check the ammeter as it doesn't work! Need to replace it. Thanks for your many videos!
Paul have you ever had a cam shaft gear break it teeth or wear out so it will not spin. If so will it throw off the timing since the crankshaft rotated but the camshaft doesn’t?
Well, if I ever happen to get my hands on a Model A sometime in the future, and it won’t start up, now I know exactly what to do. This is how you prepare people for the future.
I have 3 Simpson 260 meters, and try as I may, I cannot get any of them to make that ERNC, ERNC, ERNC, ERNC sound you made at the "4:37" point of the video. LOL!! Great video, Paul. I'm really looking forward to finishing up Athena. 73 OM
Paul, I was watching your troubleshooting video (because my 1930 Tudor won't start) and I am stumped. Just replaced the carb with a rebuilt from Glenn pensington in MI. Battery is good. Coil has 6.29 V on both sides. There is spark at the points and the coil wire when grounded also sparks but the spark is weak. The ammeter does not move when the key comes on nor when the engine is cranking (it used to though). Is this enough info to come up with a diagnosis? Greatly appreciate the help. I bought this car a year ago and have not driven it much so it has been sitting as well. New gas in the tank though.
measure voltage at the points. it should be within 5% of what you read on the coil. I'm guessing ignition switch or the cable that screws into the distributor not making good contact
So far, my troubleshooting routine was: Did I turn the ignition on? Did I turn the gas valve on? And I haven't had to go any further so far xD By the way, I noticed your car makes a slight ticking noise (7:57), where is that coming from? I'm just curious, as I have no experience in diagnosing engine noises.
When I first got my car I had to treat it like I was doing a pre-flight checklist. It's become second nature now, but I would always forget to turn on my ignition or my fuel.
Good stuff! Thanks in advance. I did all the tests. I have fuel, air and spark. I shorted the points to ground and get spark each time. However, I don't get any movement in the amp meter gauge. The back story: Car ran great for 20 miles to my destination. On the way home, it started loosing power and back firing. I limped it home and barely made it into the garage. Now it wont start. Your assistance is much appreciated.
Maybe the ignition is on the wrong terminal in the junction box. I see that all the time. Then the ammeter won't show it drawing current. Did your points close up?
@@ModelA I gapped the point to .018 I’ve never touched the junction box, and it’s been running great, until now. I tried starting fluid just in case I missed something on the fuel side. Im missing something, just don’t know what
OK, so sounds like it is electrical. Since you mentioned no ammeter indication, and I presume it worked before, I would check the wiring to and from the instrument panel and the ammeter itself. Do a resistance check with an ohmmeter.
The biggest problem I have when my car won't start is that I have forgotten to open the fuel cock. When fuel flows to the carburetor then it starts just fine. LOL!
Yes. Mostly because I couldn't find one of the little brass threaded plugs that belong in there when I assembled it. I had to plug the hole with SOMETHING. Stock oil pump.
Just like magic :) By the way under the distributor there is a wire that moves with the advance lever (?) I replaced my "2 strands left" wire with some silicone coated 'multimeter' (super flexible, many many strands) wire... which should last longer than I will :)
Can that CBF breaker you removed from fuse holder be installed in a 6v system? I have seen that Bussmann makes those for 12 volt or does it matter? Thanks.
How hard was it to rotate the motor? Ours won't start, I have a VW that when I troubleshoot, I check the belts to make sure the turn. The A won't move if I try to pull it.
Did you miss me saying "I can hear the spark every time, but I don't see it every time"? Sometimes the spark went to the head where we can see it, sometimes the spark went through the wire insulation to the ignition cable. Does that clear things up a bit?
Hello Paul I have a question about the crank shaft. I'm putting a model AA engine together it came in rebuild by some one else I notice when I turn the crank with a wrench feels like half turn is smooth then it get's hard to complete the 180 rotation. Do you recommend chiming for a smooth rotation beforehand I install the oil pan? Please advise me.
@@ModelA the piston are in not the heat yet. Is that normal? Kind of feel like is to tight. I watch a video by a guy Hagerty. And he used Pell off shims to free the crank shaft with no piston in the engine..
You did not mention point capacitor. I had situation one morning (age 16)when I could not get my A started. I checked HV coil output with plug wire near ground and no spark. I checked voltage as you did and everything was ok so I suspected bad coil. Bought coil, installed and still no start. Old farmer friend came by that afternoon (I pleaded for his help) and he ask me "did you replace the point capacitor?" Answer "no". I bought cap, installed it and it started right up. Here I am 67 years later and never forgot that! BTW I am a retired registered electrical engineer. Still not in agreement on restoring grounding from negative to positive (if it has been converted at sometime in past). Dont give that line that electrons travel from neg to pos. That may be true but it is a red herring. Neg ground just became a standard without any good reason. There were a few other early cars which were pos ground but eventually everybody bought into neg ground. Thanks for interesting channel!
Thank you, OG! You're on track there for sure. Unless it fails shorted, a condenser won't stop a Model A from running. If it fails open, or fails leaky, as most do, the Model A will still run, but poorly. Yes, current flows through a circuit from the battery negative back to the battery positive. I still don't understand why they standardized on negative ground. Positive ground makes more sense to me.
What fan are you running on that "A" and what do you think of it? (I am trying to find a safe fan to replace my original that just keeps cracking even when well balanced).
@@ModelA Thank You. I am about 30 years out of date on "As" and am in the process of getting mine back on the road. So I am noncurrent on things new since about 30 years ago. Back then, the aluminum cast blades that when painted looked almost identical to the original were all the rage, then they started catastrophically failing and folks shied away from them. So I am trying to figure out what folks are running now.
The new breed of 2-blade aluminum fans seem to be holding up OK. I run those on most of my cars. I run a plastic fan on the Sport Coupe because that's what I had when I put it back together.
Thanks for replying. I found my probleme@@ModelA Thanks for replying. I found my probleme, it was a finger nut that vibrated loose on the ampmeter and the wire came off. That 1 wire caused all that trouble lol
PS i bought my first model A ! will get it this week ! I paid $6'000 deliver to my house 1930 Roadster ! Will let you know how this works out and show you pis !
No lights? Trace the circuit with your test light. Begin at the starter switch through the terminal box, to the ammeter, behind the ammeter back to the terminal box, then to the generator. From there, go to the light switch. You'll find the open connection that way for sure
@@ModelA New battery, I've got it on charger. The covered wire to the square box on the fire wall doesn't look the healthiest. Wish you were here. It was my dad's car but left to me. 800 miles on new engine. Beautiful car but don't have time for it...
@@ModelA I replaced with a new cable as the old one was broken in the hub that screws into the dist. Still would lose voltage across the fuse and at the end of new cable. Ended up being a ground against gas tank and cable connection. The fix was bend the wire connection 90 degrees. Runs great now. I was stressed cus I was driving the 1930 Tudor in two parades the following Saturday. Which was accomplished and rewarded. Thank you for the reply and your videos. Very educational for new owners. Rob
You obviously had a catastrophic failure of some kind to start with. The only thing I would have do differently was I would have checked for spark as I think it is the fastest and easiest thing to check for. I always keep working to get a good spark first then check for other things.
I was going to take my wife to dinner last night but Old Agnes had different plans. So this morning I followed your steps. Yep! bad coil wire. Agnes is up and running!
Great job!
Hello Paul. The only time my '30 quit running was when the pop-out cable from the distributor to the switch went bad. Luckily I broke down right across the road from an old engine shop. Some old guys came running out and figured out the problem pretty quick. They pulled a cable off a car that was in the pile behind the shop, and boom, I was back on the road. Free, no charge, they were glad to help. That was 1985 and all the "old guys" were still around who knew this stuff, darn I miss those guys. I guess we're the "old guys" now---ha-ha. Thanks, keep up the good work !!!
Great story! Yes, we are the "old guys" now. When did that happen??!!!!
Between you and dad, I consider you the gurus of everything Model A! Keep 'em rollin' !
Thank you Eloso
A similar experience happened to me. My first job was at a DOD contractor called AAI Corp. I didn't have a car yet so the guy across worked there too. He became my transportation. The problem was his '55 Ford didn't idle very well. a miss would appear any time the engine was idling. When the speed increased, the miss went away. So as you know, I just had to see what the problem was, I asked the guy if I dould take a look to see if I could maybe fix this situation. After opening the hood and starting the car, the problem was right in front of me. Someone had stuck a nail in the boot of #1 plug, I guess to hook up a timing light but didn't remove the nail afterwards. When the engine was idling, the nail would short out to the block causing the plug to not fire. Surprisingly the plug fired right up after the nail was removed and the mystery was solved. The guy couldn't believe it and thank me. BTW, he was a test tech at work, you'd think that he would find it.
Whenever you have a starting problem use the kiss method. KEEP IT SIMPLE. This podcast proves it! Thank you again Paul for a great way to do it. Best wishes to you, Tina and Bob. From the deep south in the far north.
Thanks Robert! Best to you way up there.
I find your tips most helpful and humorous .Even though I may be having a problem with something I always feel good after watching one of your Video's
You are so welcome Daniel!! Luckily, positivity is infectious.
Awesome video, This should be a requirement of education prior to purchasing a Model A Ford because what you showed is Exactly the method of madness that you need to know.Thank you Mr Shinn for this video.
Great video and thanks for the tips Paul. Very helpful info, even for today's vehicles. Take care and have a wonderful week!
Paul you made it look easy thanks again for doing these. Great info ! Hope you are feeling better.
Thank you Gord!
Paul, Dad was a Model A guy. He restored one, and has owned several over the years. He told me of a legend that a Model A engine can take off running, simply by turning (and popping out) the key to the on position without hitting the starter. He told me that he’s heard of it happening but only seen it happen once in his lifetime. I’m assuming that it has to do with when the engine is shut off, the crank position has to end up in the EXACT position with one or more of the pistons having a compressed charge of fuel along with the distributor being at the exact position to cause a spark in one or more of those cylinders when turning the key on. Ever seen, or heard of this happening? I’m not sure I believe it myself. However if someone (hint hint) could recreate the conditions for this to happen or play “Mythbusters” on this folklore perhaps we could put this Myth to rest? Thoughts??? Thank You in advance!
Yea. if everything is just right, and you advance the spark lever with the key on and the spark ignites the exact air/fuel , etc. It's like hitting the lotto.
Thanks for the quick reply on the K&M Air Filter P/N. Tried a K&N Motorcycle Air Filter but thought the intake area was too small.
I missed a local model A event this morning because not feeling good. Was fortunate enough to find this video. Thanks for improving my day.
Sorry to hear that Paul. Hope you feel better
Very informative Paul, thanks for the trouble shooting checklist. I’m especially impressed with your Simpson multi-meter.
I have 3 of them! Whenever I run across one cheap, I buy it.
Great video and a simple reminder it's important to start with the basics first, Your approach and demonstration was perfect, Thanks
Thank you Dave!
That was a superb video! Excellent troubleshooting lesson! Thank you!
Thank you Jon!
Thanks Paul. Always enjoy your videos.
Thanks OM!
Excellent primer on what to do. Will add a meter to my tool bag. My 30 Sport Coupe died on me on the way to a club meeting. 4 more "A"s came up the same road in a few minutes. Couple of master mechanics and in 5 minutes diagnosed my ignition switch as the problem. Screw was stripped. Tightened it and was on my way. put a new one in, no problem since then. This is just helping me for the next time "Vilma" (a famous silent movie star) won't start. Thanks.
Awesome video, long needed and very well explained. BTW, I always learned air, fuel, spark, and COMPRESSION. You hope you never have to deal with the last one, but I have in the past (not on my Model A though!). Thanks again for all these great videos.
I have dealt with that last one. ugh... not fun
I LOVE Model A Fords! What a wonderful video, I am working on three going on four of these sweet cars at this moment. Thank you for helping keep these beautiful cars going!
Glad you enjoyed it! Keep those Model A's on the road!
Extremely interesting! Beautiful car!
I got a drive a A for the first time today. And let me to you, the guys at the gym can stop lifting weights, I've got to perfect workout for them. I'm hooked more than ever though. Feels like driving and old tractor and I loved every minute of it. I'm so glad I joined a club, even without a car, and it's all thanks to you. I hope you have a good week Paul, I'll be out for a while, I get married next Saturday and I'll be honeymooning the Saturday after that. Take care!
Good for you, Brantley! And congratulations!!!
Excellent video as always!! THANKS!!
Glad you enjoyed it Alberto!
I have a 1928 and it's converted to 12v. I'm having a problem getting it to start. I have been having a carb problem and knew it was going to need rebuilding, but it always starts. It doesn't even act like it's firing any fuel now. I just want to make absolutely that I'm getting spark to the plugs. Thanks for your videos and explaining things you're doing.
Hi Paul. Good stuff. Thx.
I am working on my deceased father-in-law's 1931 Model A Cabriolet. It has not been started in 20 years. As per your suggestion, I watched the Hooptie playlist, fluid changes & lube. I set distributor timing, but did not rebuild distributor or Zenith carburetor (parts are on order). I installed a new 6V battery.
I then went through the How to Start video, and gave it a shot. Slow crank, no start. I went through the handshake process again with the same results. Then, on to this Troubleshooting a Model A That Won't Start video.
Fuse on the starter is OK. With key on, horn and lights didn't work. The Amp gauge didn't move at all when cranking. Air items check OK. Gas checks OK. Spark check; coil checks OK, and Terminal box checks OK. With key on and coil wire on the head, no spark when shorting points to ground. This may be secondary to the Amp meter not moving at the start of the troubleshooting process.
I thought maybe the ignition switch might be defective. I checked continuity between the two terminals on the back of the switch. With key off, no continuity. With key on, no continuity. I jumped the two wires on the back of the switch - crank, no start, and no movement in the Amp meter.
I have to resolve the spark issue before a rebuilt carb or distributor will be of use. I am at a loss.
Hi Erik. Start by tracing the electrical path from the battery cable on the starter through the terminal box, ammeter, ignition switch, distributor lower plate. Put one lead of your voltmeter on the battery lug to ground. if you have 6 volts, move to the junction box on the firewall. if you have 6 volts there, move to ammeter. etc.
@@ModelA Thanks Paul!
As usual Paul killer video of how sometimes simple things cause a big problem.
Thanks Brad
@@ModelA your very welcome Paul.! 👍
Great Content !!!
Great video!! just had a similar problem. It ended up being points grounding out.
But you found it, so you win!
Another good one Paul.
Thanks OJ!
Excellent video. Every time I work on my '29 tudor, I have to really "dumb" down. LOL. Beautiful '30 btw.
Hahhaa! Dumbing down is how I make it through each day
Excellent and to the point(s)LOL trouble shooting video. thanks Paul
Thanks GC!
Thank you for sharing this video. I’m curious if you cover what to do if there is no voltage when testing with the points open. That’s where I’m stuck now.
No voltage with point open- Ignition switch or cable
Great Video
Thanks Michael!
Paul, You exhibited excellent troubleshooting skills in this episode, must be the Navy training. Nice Simpson 260, circuit breaker, and rolltop too. As a kid I purchased the model 270 that looks the same but with the mirrored scale. However it's in a cardboard box because I had a whoops dam bakelite case.
You know it!!! I think very highly of the Navy, as you know.
@@ModelA Army signal Corps all the way, but some of those Navy technicians are OK too.
Yea, those signal corps guys were pretty decent too.
Thanks
Thanks Paul good stuff ! Wish me luck got a call back from a guy selling a 1930 A Roadster . Tryed to fine you and your Dads cars for sale ! Cant find them ! This will be my first A and never driven one before but time is runing out for me in my 70s why wait ! I have look at a lot of yours videos and others ! Live Life ! Mike Will call him today !!!!!!
Good deal, Mike! Go get em!
I learn something every time I watch a video on Model A ignition. I'm
You're ... ?
Hi Paul, thank you for very informative video. I have the same model but do not the proper way to start. could you please explain the steps to start the car from inside the car.
Sure! See the video "How to start a Ford Model A"
Just found a great channel thank you!! Got my 1929 model 2 days ago. Fuel indicator does not work but I learned from you how to repair it. Parts here soon. Thanks. My windshield wiper will not work. I found a lose exposed wire just behind the rearview mirror. Is there a site you can send me to that will tell me how to check the wiring. I do not have a wiring diagram. Thank you for you time.
Ed
Abbevill, S.C.
Get yourself the Les Andrews "Red Book" from the MAFCA online store.
Good test review for things we sometimes forget to check. What is the Part# for the K&N Filter you are using? Thank You.
This one (with slight modification) modelastore.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4003&search=Air+filter&category_id=0
Paul, As usual this is more than just helpful. 2 thumbs up 👍. Leo Bella Vista Arkansas
Thanks also!
I typed "Thanks Leo" but autocorrect...
"Raised in the hood" LOL!! Love it!!
great video
Thanks John!
Hey Paul, thanks for the videos learning so much, but when are you going to be doing the rewire on the jaloppy, im in the middle of rewiring mine just need a little guidance 😀, thanks again from up the hill in auburn
That's what I have been working on all month. I swear!
@@ModelA I had to wait on my harnesses from vintage Ford for a little while, but that thank you again for the videos
Congrats on the fix. That issue could have turned into an intermittent one. For us DYI channels, it's fun when a real life problem turns into a video opportunity.
Yep!! So true.
Great video. We need more simple fixes for newbes
Good Content
Thank you!
Good old Simpson 260 - used those in the Navy in the '70's
For me it was the late 80's
The first 56 sec......arms folded, head down on the wheel......Arggggg.....it won't start!! (I have better things to do today than this!!) Boy, did that ring true!! had to laugh. Thanks!
My question of the day. I'm at my wit's end. My '30 won't start. After just buying it, not running, I did a few things to it and got it going. It was running great, although I haven't been able to drive it yet , but it started running worse and worse and then would die. This continued for several days until it decided to not start at all. Starter fluid would not even get a cough so I don't think it's a fuel problem. Your tip to check the ammeter twitching while cranking shows nothing at all. The car has a Bert's distributor with a wireless lower plate and I've replaced the modern points and condenser to no avail. The coil shows to be good, spark plugs look good, and I've replaced the bad ignition switch. I'm pretty much running out of ideas. Wouldn't you just love to come to Atlanta to make a video on the most annoying Model A on Earth?
I absolutely LOVE the south! I would drop in there in a heartbeat. However, the staff at work is relying on me so..... I'm going to guess here, probably wrong... I'm guessing the points closed up. Or the electrical connection to the distributor is flaky. Those wireless lower plates and "modern" condensers are the first thing I rip out when a Model A comes into my shop as a non-runner. Stock condenser and distributor plates gets them going 99% of the time.
@@ModelA Thank you so much for responding. I took my weekly 30 minute drive up I-85 to Mike's A Fordable this am and picked up a few more items. Long story short, she's running now! I'm not sure what did it, but I'm just happy to have made forward progress on it.
Either way, take the win!!! Please tell Erich I said HI next time you're at Mike's
Hey Paul I saw the start of the Mitchell +15% Trans and Over drive combo installation and was wondering how that pair worked out powerwise
I don't understand your question. Sorry about that.
Silly question: if you turn ignition on and no flickering AMP needle, what would that indicate? Just a bad gauge? Appreciate your detailed videos!
Could just be that the ignition is on the other side of the amp meter.
My 1931 Tudor won't start. Just watched your video and will run through your checklist soon. Right now, I think it's a weak battery. Although the horn works, the starter will only turn slowly once or twice before it stops. Can't check the ammeter as it doesn't work! Need to replace it. Thanks for your many videos!
Could be bad starter also.
Paul have you ever had a cam shaft gear break it teeth or wear out so it will not spin. If so will it throw off the timing since the crankshaft rotated but the camshaft doesn’t?
Yep. When the teeth come off, the motor just stops.
One thing that i'm getting interested in is the video production itself. What lapel mic are you using? It sounds really good.
Please don't hold my production on a pedestal. I just use an iPhone on a tripod. The mic is the cheapo amazon variety.
Well, if I ever happen to get my hands on a Model A sometime in the future, and it won’t start up, now I know exactly what to do. This is how you prepare people for the future.
Thanks BBJAJ!
I have 3 Simpson 260 meters, and try as I may, I cannot get any of them to make that ERNC, ERNC, ERNC, ERNC sound you made at the "4:37" point of the video. LOL!!
Great video, Paul. I'm really looking forward to finishing up Athena.
73 OM
Hahhaaaa!! Eventually, the meter movement might get dry enough to make noise. I was just imagining what that noise might be.
@@ModelA LOL LOL!!! You are DA Man!!!!
If it has rained hard, check for wet coil. Always carried a spare.
Someone told me that's what WD40 was invented for. Is that true?
Paul, I was watching your troubleshooting video (because my 1930 Tudor won't start) and I am stumped. Just replaced the carb with a rebuilt from Glenn pensington in MI. Battery is good. Coil has 6.29 V on both sides. There is spark at the points and the coil wire when grounded also sparks but the spark is weak. The ammeter does not move when the key comes on nor when the engine is cranking (it used to though). Is this enough info to come up with a diagnosis? Greatly appreciate the help. I bought this car a year ago and have not driven it much so it has been sitting as well. New gas in the tank though.
measure voltage at the points. it should be within 5% of what you read on the coil. I'm guessing ignition switch or the cable that screws into the distributor not making good contact
@@ModelA Thanks Paul. Love all your videos and "got the T-shirt'!!
Excellent! Thank you
So far, my troubleshooting routine was: Did I turn the ignition on? Did I turn the gas valve on?
And I haven't had to go any further so far xD
By the way, I noticed your car makes a slight ticking noise (7:57), where is that coming from?
I'm just curious, as I have no experience in diagnosing engine noises.
When I first got my car I had to treat it like I was doing a pre-flight checklist. It's become second nature now, but I would always forget to turn on my ignition or my fuel.
@@ModelA Thanks for the info :D
Good stuff! Thanks in advance. I did all the tests. I have fuel, air and spark. I shorted the points to ground and get spark each time. However, I don't get any movement in the amp meter gauge. The back story: Car ran great for 20 miles to my destination. On the way home, it started loosing power and back firing. I limped it home and barely made it into the garage. Now it wont start. Your assistance is much appreciated.
Maybe the ignition is on the wrong terminal in the junction box. I see that all the time. Then the ammeter won't show it drawing current. Did your points close up?
@@ModelA I gapped the point to .018 I’ve never touched the junction box, and it’s been running great, until now. I tried starting fluid just in case I missed something on the fuel side. Im missing something, just don’t know what
OK, so sounds like it is electrical. Since you mentioned no ammeter indication, and I presume it worked before, I would check the wiring to and from the instrument panel and the ammeter itself. Do a resistance check with an ohmmeter.
@@ModelA the ammeter reacts when the lights are turned on
The biggest problem I have when my car won't start is that I have forgotten to open the fuel cock. When fuel flows to the carburetor then it starts just fine. LOL!
Join the "forgot to turn the gas on" club! This club has hundreds of thousands of members.
Love those motor mounts! Do you have a good engine ground?
I hate those float-a-motor mounts, but I haven't gotten around to changing them yet. I have a #2 wire from the frame to the flywheel housing.
@@ModelA It was a great video it just sounded to my ear like your beautiful "A" was turning over a little slow so that is why I asked.
@@benkanobe7500 That's about normal for a 6V car.
@@ModelA Most of them are as you well know.
When you were checking the coil is that with the key on or off?
Off
Noticed that you have pressure gauge in oil pump hole. How much pressure do you see? Is your oil pump stock?
Yes. Mostly because I couldn't find one of the little brass threaded plugs that belong in there when I assembled it. I had to plug the hole with SOMETHING. Stock oil pump.
Just like magic :) By the way under the distributor there is a wire that moves with the advance lever (?) I replaced my "2 strands left" wire with some silicone coated 'multimeter' (super flexible, many many strands) wire... which should last longer than I will :)
Absolutely. Well done!
Why does your windshield wiper move when you're cranking? Something to do with vacuum wipers. Don't think I ever noticed that before.
That is a common behavior of vacuum wipers. If yours doesn't move when you crank, it's either broken, too tight, or you have a vacuum leak.
Can that CBF breaker you removed from fuse holder be installed in a 6v system? I have seen that Bussmann makes those for 12 volt or does it matter?
Thanks.
Yes! My car is 6 volts
@@ModelA Thank you for that info.
How hard was it to rotate the motor? Ours won't start, I have a VW that when I troubleshoot, I check the belts to make sure the turn. The A won't move if I try to pull it.
Easy to turn over. Only like 4:1 compression
Paul here is my problem I admit to knowing little about a model a. Battery is full charge , light are on but will not crank.
Likely bad starter or starter switch.
6:15 check out the spark from the plug wire to the head, clear as day!
Did you miss me saying "I can hear the spark every time, but I don't see it every time"? Sometimes the spark went to the head where we can see it, sometimes the spark went through the wire insulation to the ignition cable. Does that clear things up a bit?
Very helpful video !
Now that we got the coil wire …….
How about a wiring harness????😉
I'm working on it right now!! Been working on it for a month.
I know it’s gonna be great ! Looking forward to it ! ( no pressure haha)
@@eugenelevin8314 I hope it doesn't let you down!
What is the best kind of modal a
The kind you're not afraid to drive every day
Hello Paul I have a question about the crank shaft. I'm putting a model AA engine together it came in rebuild by some one else I notice when I turn the crank with a wrench feels like half turn is smooth then it get's hard to complete the 180 rotation. Do you recommend chiming for a smooth rotation beforehand I install the oil pan? Please advise me.
Are you cranking against compression? Or are the pistons or head not installed yet?
@@ModelA the piston are in not the heat yet. Is that normal? Kind of feel like is to tight. I watch a video by a guy Hagerty. And he used Pell off shims to free the crank shaft with no piston in the engine..
@@victorramirez844 If there are bo pistons in the motor yet, then it is definitely too tight. If you have shims, add some shim to increase clearance.
Hello Mr Jim why my model a have spark yellow orange no blue
Greatest cars ever built
Agreed
You did not mention point capacitor. I had situation one morning (age 16)when I could not get my A started. I checked HV coil output with plug wire near ground and no spark. I checked voltage as you did and everything was ok so I suspected bad coil. Bought coil, installed and still no start. Old farmer friend came by that afternoon (I pleaded for his help) and he ask me "did you replace the point capacitor?" Answer "no". I bought cap, installed it and it started right up. Here I am 67 years later and never forgot that! BTW I am a retired registered electrical engineer. Still not in agreement on restoring grounding from negative to positive (if it has been converted at sometime in past). Dont give that line that electrons travel from neg to pos. That may be true but it is a red herring. Neg ground just became a standard without any good reason. There were a few other early cars which were pos ground but eventually everybody bought into neg ground. Thanks for interesting channel!
Thank you, OG! You're on track there for sure. Unless it fails shorted, a condenser won't stop a Model A from running. If it fails open, or fails leaky, as most do, the Model A will still run, but poorly.
Yes, current flows through a circuit from the battery negative back to the battery positive. I still don't understand why they standardized on negative ground. Positive ground makes more sense to me.
What fan are you running on that "A" and what do you think of it? (I am trying to find a safe fan to replace my original that just keeps cracking even when well balanced).
I have one of the 6-blade plastic ones on this car. It works OK
@@ModelA Thank You. I am about 30 years out of date on "As" and am in the process of getting mine back on the road. So I am noncurrent on things new since about 30 years ago. Back then, the aluminum cast blades that when painted looked almost identical to the original were all the rage, then they started catastrophically failing and folks shied away from them. So I am trying to figure out what folks are running now.
The new breed of 2-blade aluminum fans seem to be holding up OK. I run those on most of my cars. I run a plastic fan on the Sport Coupe because that's what I had when I put it back together.
@@ModelA Thank you Paul, I appreciate it. I am in San Diego so will join whatever club is down here and hopefully gets some additional good advice.
Boomer content ≠ bad content! Keep going :D
Thanks, will do! Hahaa!!
Enjoy video !
Thanks Charles
I have a no start situation on my truck. It cranks and all but no lights or horn or twiching of the amp guage. Where is the fuse located?
IF your truck has a fuse, it may be located next to the starter switch.
Thanks for replying. I found my probleme@@ModelA Thanks for replying. I found my probleme, it was a finger nut that vibrated loose on the ampmeter and the wire came off. That 1 wire caused all that trouble lol
Taa daa!!! Good work!
PS i bought my first model A ! will get it this week ! I paid $6'000 deliver to my house 1930 Roadster ! Will let you know how this works out and show you pis !
MIKE!!!!!!! MIKE!! MIKE!!!!! That's great news, man! Can't wait to see it!
Motor turns, no lights but new fuse, where do I go now ? I enjoy your videos...
No lights? Trace the circuit with your test light. Begin at the starter switch through the terminal box, to the ammeter, behind the ammeter back to the terminal box, then to the generator. From there, go to the light switch. You'll find the open connection that way for sure
@@ModelA Now I've got lights, horn sounds weak. It fired a couple of times. Back on Battery charger for a few.
@@johngary5898 Loose connection somewhere? Or dead battery?
@@ModelA New battery, I've got it on charger. The covered wire to the square box on the fire wall doesn't look the healthiest. Wish you were here. It was my dad's car but left to me. 800 miles on new engine. Beautiful car but don't have time for it...
@@johngary5898 If you have an ohmmeter, then ohm it out. I bet that's not zero ohms anymore.
What do you do when you don't get spark at the arm
Check ignition switch and coil
@@ModelA I replaced with a new cable as the old one was broken in the hub that screws into the dist. Still would lose voltage across the fuse and at the end of new cable. Ended up being a ground against gas tank and cable connection. The fix was bend the wire connection 90 degrees. Runs great now. I was stressed cus I was driving the 1930 Tudor in two parades the following Saturday. Which was accomplished and rewarded.
Thank you for the reply and your videos. Very educational for new owners.
Rob
Ignition or gas
My late grandfather who was an electrician had that same Simpson voltmeter. I wish i knew what happened to it.
Plenty of them come up for sale all the time. Grab one! I love mine.
@@ModelA I'll have to do that, thank you.
my 29 won’t start. ran everyday then nothing. rebuilt distributor carb ignition, got spark got fuel gapped plugs re timed it and nothing
Do you have compression?
Also take long time to run
Come on Paul. Everyone knows that the correct way to check for spark is to hold on to a spark plug lead while you crank the engine over. 😉
That's the old way! Haha!
Great trouble shooting Tips !! But Don't take off with your microphone cable attached LOL
Almost did!
analog meter, for a analog car
"Sufficient compression, spark at about the right time, a combustible fuel"
Yep
Why the Simpson? A Fluke is more accurate
Nope, not when working on a Model A ignition system. Put your Fluke on a line then start the motor and see what happens.
You obviously had a catastrophic failure of some kind to start with.
The only thing I would have do differently was I would have checked for spark as I think it is the fastest and easiest thing to check for. I always keep working to get a good spark first then check for other things.
I did check for spark, eventually...
Antik vehicles cunvert to electric motor vehicle natural environment friendly vehicle long life time run
Electric vehicles are not environmentally friendly as some would have you believe