To help scan the other side use a geometry rich object like a printed maker tower or a couple crumpled up towel with the board up on its edge that way when you go around to the back side, the scanner can hold onto the additional geometry
For this particular part, I'd be tempted to print it on it's end so the opening of the joint-holes are facing the Z-plane, the side that has less of a slant is more ideal so it's less support material used. It would be best if the webbing/spine in the part had chamfering to drop those as overhangs. But the main idea is make the holes as structural as possible by being full loops, if you start getting any layer-splits consider trying that, else good layer adhesion!
I know there's a lot of focus on the materials but what about this freak'n scanner?!?! I'm so impressed with how well it turned out! It doesn't seem like you had to do any "computer" clean up work. Like scaling or removing random artifacts that I've seen show up in other scanned parts before. Some will say it's expensive but if its really this good, and you have a business in this field, how could you not afford to be without one now?
yeah its pretty awesome. I honestly was blown away I just scanned and printed and it came out perfect. There are sometimes other artifacts that show up but its pretty simple to clean up in the Creality Scan software. I think the Ferret would probably do almost as good and is also cheaper but I haven't tried it yet.
As for filament, I've been looking into PP-CF for my printed RC part. Polypropylene Carbon Fiber. It's properties and specs, on paper, look phenomenal. I have some on its way an can't wait to put it to the test.
Fantastic, dude! Thanks a bunch for all the testing! 😃 You can also try different infil geometries. Some are definitely stronger than others! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
One of my pet peeves, people believing that , that's all there is to it. Talking about people believing they can get good quality parts without bringing it into CAD to create a model with clean and smooth surfaces and clean and accurate features instead of using scanning software to fill holes and estimate voids in the scan.
Do you think I can scan 1/14th Tamiya truck body's. Do you think of I purchased a body shell from shapeways I can scan it so I have the files then are they put into STL files or thrown on slicer through scanner . How can one go from scanned picture to slice to 3Dprint. I have a elegoo Neptune 4 pro .. will the creality scanner work with my printer . Is a big reason I have no purchased yet. Not sure of the unknowns yet . Still sniffing for more information as much as possible please. Great job
You would need 3 scans, otherwhise a 60000€ scanner can also not merge it. In my opinion these Carbon Fiber Filaments are not the best to achieve maximum strength. To realy make a 3d print strong with CF you have to go for a Markforged Printer which can make the parts fiber enforced with real endless CF fibers. The strength of this Filaments with CF splinters is to make Lightweight parts but if you compare Nylon CF to Nylon plane. Nylon will outperform the CF splinter Nylon composite Part.
So the glossyer the parts the better. . I thought Orange would be best to scan maybe. Lazers don't work though blue or are they not lazers i.r so on . .
I have zero knowledge on 3D scanners, although I'm obviously here looking to get one in the future. Since you said the scanner has issues scanning black parts, why not spray the part with temp paint? Such as Plasti-dip (they have a ton of colors) , it dries and peels off when your done, assuming you do a good job painting, it will peel off very easily, of course little thru holes and what not may need a little extra "help". Just a thought, I could be completely wrong for who knows what reason, but I'm all ears. If anyone tries it, lmk if it works.
Great piece of kit, The price though?!? AU $1,200 is rather steep but I know nothing about 3d Scanners. Can you get cheaper scanners to do the same job? Excellent video mate, Thankyou. Jimbo - Australia.
You can do this with almost any printer. The easiest, but expensive, printer would be a Bambu X1C. I have a Voron 2.4R2 350mm, Bambu X1C and Snapmaker J1. Every printer can print quality parts.
You don't want 100% infill you want some give, I think 70% is the same strength as 100%, you want some give you don't want the parts to be too stiff they're just going to snap.
Over 40% infill there is no benefit in strength. If you want strong parts use a many walls as possible and be aware of the part orientation for printing. If you want a part absorbing shocks use a different material. PETG for example instead of PC, PLA or ABS. Or PA12, 98A TPU, PP.
@@rcprinter yeah 100% info especially with a part that's going to be taking an impact you don't want to be too stiff unless you want that the part to break instead of another part that's connected to it
To help scan the other side use a geometry rich object like a printed maker tower or a couple crumpled up towel with the board up on its edge that way when you go around to the back side, the scanner can hold onto the additional geometry
Yeah, scanning targets with or without marker dots, crumbled blue painter tape or clay.
Crumbled painter tape is a great suggestion thanks!
This is so cool because it makes getting rc parts or other parts for projects much easier 🤩
Great practical experience, thanks.
For this particular part, I'd be tempted to print it on it's end so the opening of the joint-holes are facing the Z-plane, the side that has less of a slant is more ideal so it's less support material used. It would be best if the webbing/spine in the part had chamfering to drop those as overhangs. But the main idea is make the holes as structural as possible by being full loops, if you start getting any layer-splits consider trying that, else good layer adhesion!
I know there's a lot of focus on the materials but what about this freak'n scanner?!?!
I'm so impressed with how well it turned out!
It doesn't seem like you had to do any "computer" clean up work. Like scaling or removing random artifacts that I've seen show up in other scanned parts before.
Some will say it's expensive but if its really this good, and you have a business in this field, how could you not afford to be without one now?
yeah its pretty awesome. I honestly was blown away I just scanned and printed and it came out perfect. There are sometimes other artifacts that show up but its pretty simple to clean up in the Creality Scan software. I think the Ferret would probably do almost as good and is also cheaper but I haven't tried it yet.
@@rcprinterOr maybe the moose scanner . Would love to see you do a teck talk on a few different scanners then a compare to each other
In combat robotics we use a lot of Polymaker polymax pla. Very strong and easy to print.
Wouldn’t PA or PC be better? PC would be harder and PA less likely to break.
As for filament, I've been looking into PP-CF for my printed RC part.
Polypropylene Carbon Fiber.
It's properties and specs, on paper, look phenomenal.
I have some on its way an can't wait to put it to the test.
Pretty sweet.... I have always wanted to have a 3D Scanner..
Thank you. Excellent explanations for anyone and especially new people like me! Great idea and super useful. I hope it gets lots of views.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic, dude! Thanks a bunch for all the testing! 😃
You can also try different infil geometries. Some are definitely stronger than others!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for the tips!
One of my pet peeves, people believing that , that's all there is to it. Talking about people believing they can get good quality parts without bringing it into CAD to create a model with clean and smooth surfaces and clean and accurate features instead of using scanning software to fill holes and estimate voids in the scan.
Do you think I can scan 1/14th Tamiya truck body's. Do you think of I purchased a body shell from shapeways I can scan it so I have the files then are they put into STL files or thrown on slicer through scanner . How can one go from scanned picture to slice to 3Dprint. I have a elegoo Neptune 4 pro .. will the creality scanner work with my printer . Is a big reason I have no purchased yet. Not sure of the unknowns yet . Still sniffing for more information as much as possible please. Great job
Awesome video👍💯👊
CF filaments can wear out your printer nozzle pretty fast. Make sure you have a hardened one.
Thanks for the tip!
Can it capture texture?
You would need 3 scans, otherwhise a 60000€ scanner can also not merge it. In my opinion these Carbon Fiber Filaments are not the best to achieve maximum strength. To realy make a 3d print strong with CF you have to go for a Markforged Printer which can make the parts fiber enforced with real endless CF fibers. The strength of this Filaments with CF splinters is to make Lightweight parts but if you compare Nylon CF to Nylon plane. Nylon will outperform the CF splinter Nylon composite Part.
This crabon fiber BS is just annoying.
The only reason it's strong is because is used as fibers and then sealed in resin.
So the glossyer the parts the better. . I thought Orange would be best to scan maybe. Lazers don't work though blue or are they not lazers i.r so on . .
wow 3D scanners have come a long way, last time i tryde 3d scan something was with the kinect for xbox 360 🤣
haha, I still have one of those old kinects collecting dust hoping I can find a use for it one day :)
I have zero knowledge on 3D scanners, although I'm obviously here looking to get one in the future. Since you said the scanner has issues scanning black parts, why not spray the part with temp paint? Such as Plasti-dip (they have a ton of colors) , it dries and peels off when your done, assuming you do a good job painting, it will peel off very easily, of course little thru holes and what not may need a little extra "help". Just a thought, I could be completely wrong for who knows what reason, but I'm all ears. If anyone tries it, lmk if it works.
That would likely work as long as it comes off easily. Foot spray powder works pretty easily.
Great piece of kit, The price though?!? AU $1,200 is rather steep but I know nothing about 3d Scanners. Can you get cheaper scanners to do the same job?
Excellent video mate, Thankyou. Jimbo - Australia.
I'm sure you can, I believe the ferret would do almost as well.
What printer are you using? Those parts look super clean especially where the supports were...
You can do this with almost any printer. The easiest, but expensive, printer would be a Bambu X1C.
I have a Voron 2.4R2 350mm, Bambu X1C and Snapmaker J1. Every printer can print quality parts.
You don't want 100% infill you want some give, I think 70% is the same strength as 100%, you want some give you don't want the parts to be too stiff they're just going to snap.
Over 40% infill there is no benefit in strength. If you want strong parts use a many walls as possible and be aware of the part orientation for printing.
If you want a part absorbing shocks use a different material. PETG for example instead of PC, PLA or ABS. Or PA12, 98A TPU, PP.
@@Todestelzer okay yeah I knew it wasn't 100% for some reason I thought it was 70
I suppose I'll have to do some more testing but anecdotally RC parts at 100% infill seem to have longer life for me.
@@rcprinter yeah 100% info especially with a part that's going to be taking an impact you don't want to be too stiff unless you want that the part to break instead of another part that's connected to it
I read the a can of spray dry shampoo works too and cheap.
definitely something to try
Check your fingers with a microscope after handling carbon fiber!