How To Screen Print White Ink On Black Tee Shirts
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
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Screenprinting: Learn How To Screen Print Tee Shirts At Home
How To Screen Print: White Ink On Black Tee Shirts
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You will find the definition to the following screen printing terms on the website:
Screen Emulsion Scoop coater Light Table or Exposure Unit Artwork Coverage Mesh or Fabric Mesh Count Frame Newton Halftone Stencil Thickness Durometer Plastisol Ink Film or Film Positive Substrate Vacuum Cured Emulsion Water Soluble Washout Booth Flood and Stroke Belt Dryer Cured Ink Flash Cure Spray Adhesive Pick Up Resolution Printing Wet Under Base Registration Pre Shrinking Light Table or Exposure Unit Vacuum Blanket Color Composite Outline Continuous Tones Halftone or Grayscale Four Color Process Spot Color Spot And Dot "Printer" or Platen Knocked Out Crest Degrease Abrade Mesh Prep or Degreaser Micro Grit Scoop coater Stirring Stick Substrate Side Ink Well
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I couldn’t have said it any better but it’s not just the machines. Your artwork, inks, screens and other accoutrements may also be a challenge to master. And just because you have the machines doesn’t mean you will instantly be able to print everything you want. It takes time to learn many aspects of screen printing. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
Thanks for the video. Im getting better. My screen was at its highest peek, I lowered it to an eighth, so much better. Mixed the heck outta my ink and my prints looks good, so far
Ah yes, mixing your ink well will make a difference for sure. Is the Union still drying in screen for you? You’re very welcome. Glad I can help out through my videos. Thanks for watching. Screen Printing Equipment & Supplies - catspitscreenprintsupply.com/
Right on! Thank you very much! And you’re welcome. It’s my pleasure to help out anytime. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@volpe3fuego You are welcome. It is my pleasure to help out and share information. I am happy to hear that you enjoyed the screenprinting videos. Please make sure to check out the website for a lot more free information about screenprinting. You can find the link on the channel page and in the video descriptions. Glow-in-the-dark ink should be screen printed directly onto the T-shirt. I think if you try to apply it after the printing it won't look very good. Thanks for watching and commenting. ☠
In this video I used Excalibur Competition white but I also like Ryonet’s Ryopaque white. You can get both inks at a discount on the Print Supplies page of the Catspit website. See my CZcams channel page for the link. The mesh count you use will depend on the purpose. 110 for white only on black and maybe a 125 or 130 for an underbase. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@2ndwindranch Well thank you very much. I’m very happy to help out. Glad you like the videos. I have never used Ryonet inks but I like Excalibur very much. You can buy it with a Catspit discount from the Print Supplies page. Look for the Integrity listing and then the Excalibur inks. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
@ruxvellprints Yes, it does. That will actually build up the ink in layers making it rise off the shirt. If you do that carefully, it looks pretty cool being slightly 3D with really sharp edges. But curing is critical. I did a Catspit hoodie like that and people always go to touch the print because of its raised appearance. Thanks for watching and commenting!
And if you need screenprinting supplies, please check out the Print Supplies page on the Catspit website for discounts. Use the Catspit promo codes to get 5% to 15% off list pricing plus free shipping. Offers from 3 vendors including Ryonet! See my CZcams channel page for the link. Thanks for watching! ☠
@MattyMurderous Check out the Catspit website for more info on how to screen print with a full run down on the process and equipment. Link is on the channel page and ion the video description. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@Nicoya1284 I have not done a video on additives yet. In this video I used Excalibur Competition white but I also like Ryonet’s Ryopaque white. You can get both inks at a discount on the Print Supplies page of the Catspit website. See my CZcams channel page for the link. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@Dexduzdiz Yes, I agree. I really like the look of the flash/hit/flash method. The only problem is it takes quite a bit longer to do when you print manually. If you have an automatic you can print 2 white screens with a flash in between in one cycle around the press. Then it really doesn’t make much of a difference at all. Except you need two identical screens and great registration. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@Haxwear Thanks! Try working the ink less on the shirt. Flood it while holding the screen up off the shirt. Flood a little extra and then stroke as few times as needed to clear the ink out of the mesh. Or you could try a higher quality shirt too. Like a Hanes Beefy tee. A thicker ink may also help out. Thanks for watching & commenting!
LOL... Thank you! You’re welcome, it’s my pleasure to help out and share information. Check out the Catspit website for a lot more free info on screen printing. Link is on the channel page. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
@bigoceansvoyage You are welcome. It is my pleasure to help out. That's great to hear. I appreciate you taking the time to say thanks. That means a lot. Thanks for watching & commenting!
I've used a heat press to press the shirt fiber down into the ink. The heat press heats the ink and allows for pressing screen texture and fibers to be flattened. I press at 320 degrees, for 5 seconds. If you press for longer time you risk damaging your print.
@trebluap Not unless it’s a discharge white or maybe a discharge base depending on the hand you want. The ink used in this video is plastisol ink which is cleaned with either solvents made for screen printing inks or paint thinner and lacquer thinner. It’s best to use products that are not so hazardous and user friendly not to mention drain safe. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@xinsanendabrainx Thank you! Glad you like my videos. I use Excalibur’s Competition White. You can get a Catspit discount on this stuff through the Print Supplies page on the Catspit website. It’s pretty thick out of the bucket but as you work it, it gets creamy. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey Andy, this is an older video and I was using a white ink I no longer use but it was not thinned or reduced. I never use any additives in my white inks. They are specifically made for excellent coverage and high opacity so if you add anything it changes the opacity while affecting the ink flow characteristics. So if your white inks are too thick and problem some it may be that they are gelled or perhaps there was a bad batch. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@InSuchSkull Ah, the mesh count is noted in the annotations in case anyone else missed that. It is a 110 mesh stretched nice and tight. But you could also do this with what is now called thin mesh. There is an article on the Catspit website about it. Check it out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
In this video I used Excalibur but any decent white plastisol ink should work. If you want this ink you can get it 5% off list pricing on my Print Supplies page of the Catspit website. See the Integrity Print Supply link on my channel page. But it could also be your screen or methodology. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
@ballanumber1 Yes, I am using Excalibur’s Competition white. Plastisol. It’s pretty reasonably priced and works very well in a wide variety of printing applications. You can get it from the Print Supplies page on the Catspit website. Just look for the Integrity Print Supply listing and use the discount code at checkout for some savings on your order. Link is on the channel page. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
In this video I used Excalibur Competition white. I use mostly Saati emulsions. For black shirts the inks used would depend on what you are printing. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@2ndwindranch Thanks, glad you like the video. Yes, you can add reducers but remember that will ultimately reduce opacity. Make sure the ink is about 70 degrees F or so when you print. Or you can just switch to a more creamy ink like Excalibur. But I don’t recommend using reducers especially on black shirts. You might try mixing it up a bit beforehand too. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Very cool #screenprinting video that shows 2 different methods to print white #plastisol #ink on dark garments.
Thank you! You’re welcome, it’s my pleasure to help out and share information. Check out the Catspit website for a lot more free info on screen printing. Link is on the channel page. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
@hiphopprintshop LOL, I never said it was going to be one stroke. I call it a multiple pass or a “putty job”. I really think a one stroke white print is not practical; it may be possible but at higher speeds of manual printing the quality and consistency will suffer with one stroke printing. I would suggest a minimum of 2 strokes on a manual press to ensure coverage and overall print consistency. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Please watch all of my videos from the oldest to the newest. That would give you the complete rundown on the entire process. An explanation in a comment would do you no good. A little research will help you get it right. My website has more info that will help too. Link is on the channel page. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
Your tutorials are always great. Thanks for the refresher course before I went and butchered this job tonight.
Oh my! I would appreciate that. I hope it works well for you. Let me know if you have any questions regarding this. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@tedmatas You are welcome. It is my pleasure to help out. Thanks for watching & commenting!
Yes, there is a thread on this on the Catspit Forum. Look for the “The Business: Advertising, Customers, Marketing & More” section. The see the post called, “Customer Approved Misprints.” It will make the volume of ink patchy but if you do it right it works. Link for the forum is on my CZcams channel page. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Yes, water based inks do have a shelf life especially when stored improperly. How long they will last will depend on your storage conditions. A somewhat humid, cool area is ideal for storage with the tops very tightly closed. But they can last a long time if properly stored. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
@SunshineScreenPrints Thank you very much. I enjoyed watching your video on printing black and white ink. White ink can be a bummer. Once you get used to the ink it won’t be a problem. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Quick and easy...right to the point..Good job!
Thank you!! :) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! www.catspitproductionsllc.com/ - catspitscreenprintsupply.com/
One I will hopefully be a dealer for ;) Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
@nn8nn I’m not sure what you are doing and what ink you are using but you either have to change inks or improve your coverage depending on your methods. You can message me and explain exactly what you are doing and using to print. Perhaps I could help then. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
@WeeboPrints90 This is a high opacity plastisol ink. Most tend to be thick and creamy especially if it is high opacity. This is Excalibur ink. Thanks for watching & commenting!
this is the best and understanding on how to do screen printing,thank you
It’s a direct liquid emulsion that makes the stencil. You can get some at CatspitScreenPrintSupply online ;) Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
@N1Njaclaws Thank you! You’re welcome, it’s my pleasure to help out and share information. Make sure to check out the website too. If you like the videos, you should love the website. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Thank you! You’re welcome, it’s my pleasure to help out. Check out the Catspit website for a lot more free info on screen printing. Link is on the channel page. Try to use a high quality, high opacity white ink. Also you need to be able to get the coverage you desire with the least amount of action on the shirt. That means use a tight screen, good off contact, flood well holding the screen off pallet, and use minimal strokes to print. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Screen printing always works best with a very tight screen. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Thanks, glad to hear you enjoy my videos. This depends on what you want to spend really. I recommend RANAR equipment because the design is simple; they’re well-built and reasonably priced. But if you want the Cadillac of all presses or the Hummer, if you will, then you can message me and I’ll help you out based on what you want to print. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Hey, thanks for your videos, I really appreciate your work - I've been struggling with white on black in particular, and you've inspired me to keep trying! I'll also be trying out your suggestions in some of your other videos ie. flood & stroke technique. I know the amount of time it takes to make these videos, so I just wanted to say thanks.
That’s great, glad my videos can help out. Well really you should be printing color designs on top of a white under base when you print black or dark garments. Unless the inks are “high opacity” then you’ll need an under base for best results. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
@nickisgayyyyyy Setting up a manual shop can cost anywhere from $500 to over $20,000. There are starter kits which you can find on the Catspit website. The stencils are made by a photographic process. Check out the website to learn more. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
You’re’ welcome, my pleasure. Glad you liked it. Thanks for the support! ☠
:) Thank so much. I really appreciate your support very much. And I’m very happy you enjoy my videos so. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@munnapakora Yes, it’s plastisol ink. Thanks for the sub. And thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Thanks for the sub! I appreciate the support. Watch all of my videos to learn to screen print and I’ll be happy to answer specific questions. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
If you are printing white ink on different colored shirts especially dark colors then the 110 mesh will work very well. I would not get the 156 mesh unless you have the need to do some detail. It will be harder to get the coverage you want but can be done with a double hit with the flash if you need to. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Thanks, glad you like my CZcams channel. Check out my website too, the link is on my channel page. This could be the ink or perhaps you are working the ink too much while in contact with the shirt. Try to print with minimal strokes and movement of any kind. Flooding the screen with ink while lifted off the pallet can help achieve this. But it is a bit odd if you have fibrillation on the second hit after flashing. Not sure what’s happening there. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@PomonaPunkRock I assume you are using water based inks, yes? You can use an ink additive that will slow the dry time of the ink or you can back flood the screen with ink in between prints. Some people even use water bottles with spray tops that can mist and moisten up the ink. Or work much faster…LOL. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
I agree. You should have a flash cure unit at the very least. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
We’ll it’s a matter of the right ink and the right set up. You should be able to get a good white ink to print well without a flash. I have more videos on this subject I do believe. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
@Cloud797 Not sure what you mean there. But the stencil is open as you can see…LOL. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
@thatswassupone Nice, thank you! Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Get the right tool for the job. There are many home brews and hobby ways to screen print but the easiest and fastest way is the commercial way as I present it. If there were an easier way I would use it ;) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Sometimes ink can actually shrink as well. Try flashing less. Only to the point that it is tacky and barley comes off on your finger when touched lightly. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Thank you! Not really but some fabrics are more prone to it than others. Thanks much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
@PomonaPunkRock No problem, my pleasure. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Another Great Video Jon.
Keep up the great work.
The best on CZcams.
From Daniella. - The UK Fan Club.
You're the freakin' BOSS, Jonathan. Great stuff in every video.
This is Excalibur Competition white. It’s a high opacity plastisol ink for textiles. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@pauygrima You’re’ welcome, my pleasure. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
What ink do you use?
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
am emmanuel i have been watching your videos and i like them.i am an up comming screen printer and will like to learn more from you. GOOD WORK.
I use plastisol inks for textiles. Once in a while I might print signs or something and use a water based or solvent based ink. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
A lot of people have trouble with that ink. Currently I would recommend Triangle Phoenix white. I made a video about it and it is the best as far as I’m concerned. You can get it at a discount using the Catspit promo code for Screen Printing Superstore. See the links on my CZcams channel page. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
A classic in my #screenprinting video collection. LOL... in my opinion anyway ;)
LOL, we have a new intro now that is more metal than spooky :) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Perhaps but doing the final cure with a flash cure unit is not always easy. I think that is what we are really talking about here. You can print multiple colors just fine with a flash cure unit. I always suggest using a belt dryer to finish the cure on any garment especially if you are selling it. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@alenmemphis Thank you! Thanks for watching & commenting!
@GENOSIDEPHXAZ Make sure the ink is made for fabrics. If it is then try a different textile ink. It’s most likely an ink problem. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Well I don’t really do one offs like that especially on the customers product. My minimum order for screen printing on a 1 color is 24 pieces. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
Currently I am using Triangle’s Phoenix white. It’s an excellent ink. I just did a video on it so check my latest videos for my recent uploads and you will see it. I do a test print and tell you where you can get it with a discount ;) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Thank you very much! I actually use plastisol inks. Check out my screen printing forum and website. Link is on the channel page. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
Are you using water based inks? Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
which method would save you a little more time while keeping the most detail of your screen?
Some inks are thicker than others. But mixing it more will make it thinner. It will only get so much so depending on the ink though. In other words how thin it gets depends on the thixotropic properties of the ink not how much you mix it. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
I think you mean the coating technique, yes? I like to coat the substrate first, one pass and then the inkwell side last, one pass. That would be a 1/1 coat ending with the inkwell side. That should be just fine for anyone. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Interesting. I used to screen print a design in white ink on a black satin jacket and then air brush color onto it. The color would fade into the black satin where it over sprayed and looked like a multi colored print. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Both methods can keep good detail. It’s just one may look a bit crisper than the other. But the quicker way is the multiple pass one hit method. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
@tomoose7 That’s not even my sticker…LOL. I really don’t know how that got there. Thanks for watching and commenting! ☠
Thank you! You have to make sure the ink is cured properly. Plastisol inks cure at about 330 degrees F and water base inks will “heat set” at about 250 degrees F. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
You’re welcome; it’s my pleasure to help out in any way. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
I probably could :) Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
Not really but you can look at my pricing on my website and use it as a model or suggestion. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Maybe too low of a mesh count. Perhaps too much squeegee pressure or even the weight of the shirt can cause this. Thin, lightweight garments tend to do what you described. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
No they really need a heat press too apply properly. Otherwise the plastisol transfer may peel off. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
I use all plastisol inks in my shop. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
no. pastisol ink has to reach a high temperature in order to cure. usually 300 - 330 degrees fahrenheit. A hair dryer no where reaches that temperature.
A 1 color design would be easy to do in vinyl. I don’t know anything about sisser, sorry. Thanks for watching & commenting! ☠
Because white ink has to be designed to be opaque. It has to have opacity to cover dark colored garments. Black inks have better opacity and require different volumes of pigment to work. If that makes any sense ;) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
I tend to prefer that look as well but it takes more time to do. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Hinge clamps maybe. I have a video on that. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠
Thank you very much, good luck. Let me know if you need help anytime. Please make sure to subscribe :) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! ☠
Woah! I don't know a lot about custom t-shirts, but that rotary press looks a lot more effeicient than heat presses! How much did that thing cost?!
I have no idea what is going on there. Too little information. You may try a new screen with tight mesh and a 110 count. You may want to use a better squeegee as well. But without specific information I am only guessing. Try posting your question on the forum with details and I’ll be happy to help out. Link is on the channel page. Thanks so much for watching and dropping me a note. ☠