You dont have to use the jumper wire between R and Rc. If you only have one wire and a jumper leave the little slider in the up\1 wire position. Then just insert the red to R. The slider creates the jumper. Great video. Thanks.
Actually, I may redo mine WITH the jumper as he did in the video! I've been having issues a couple months after installing my T10 (virtually identical to the T9), with it not lighting the ignitor and opening the gas valve. Manually jumping R to W on the IFC board in the furnace cabinet seems to work. Now, I'm suspecting that the built in sliding jumper, which seems a bit loose, may not be making good contact between R and RC on the T10 terminal base.... I may try this trick, and jumper R to RC, and see if that gives a more reliable current.
*Works great: **Fastly.Cool** and Warming environment perfectly controlled. I use 3 in different grow tents. It’s nice to see from your phone how your tent temps are. Does High and Low and records data.*
you made this look easy! thank you for the perfect explanation. i’ve been considering installing a smart tstat in my rental townhouse because it is currently located in an uptairs hallway/open stairwell 🤦🏻♀️ we spend most of our time downstairs and it is SO hard to temp control. anyways i’ve done some research and this one looks perfect for what i need but i was intimidated by having to install it. you’ve given me the confidence to pull the trigger! thanks again!!!
Thanks for the info. We just bought a house that was built in 1920 with 2 additions that has 2 HVAC systems. I want to get two of these with multiple sensors for each system. One of them is in the basement, so when the temp in the basement is perfect, the upstairs is roasting 😂
You mention having a furnace and then call it a heat pump at one point and I can’t tell from the wires what you might actually have (the W is used on heat pumps for defrost, wires directly from stat to outside unit). Wish there were more good videos on the heat pump connections because they replaced our AC unit with a heatpump but we only want it to run as an AC, already have a 90% eff. gas furnace on that unit. Problem is the T9 can’t be wired for “dual fuel” but maybe the T10 can, will be calling Honeywell today. Depending on the heat pump manufacturer the orange wire either needs to be joined to the Y at the unit (powered on call) or left capped (no power) so the heat pump knows to run in cooling mode only. O (orange) controls the reversing valve, and you don’t want it jumped on all the time or it might burn out. Looks like W (white/defrost mode) can be left disconnected for AC-only use. I jumped Y1 and Y2 on my Lenox 2-stage but might have to redo that or some mode jumper on the board because it never kicks down to the second stage with more cooling.
G (Green) drives the blower fan. Make sure the thermostat is set to Auto fan mode and Heating or Cooling mode on, change temp so it doesn’t run. If fan is still going check the green wire is not jumped on either side. G should go to G between stat and control board only (does not go outside). If stat is set to Fan Always On or Circulate mode that will turn it on as well when properly wired.
HI I need your help with wiring . PLease I was trying to install this thermostat Honeywell T9 but I found many wires 1 Yellow, 2 Red, 1 Green, 2 White , 1 Blue . I don't know what to do !!!
You dont have to use the jumper wire between R and Rc. If you only have one wire and a jumper leave the little slider in the up\1 wire position. Then just insert the red to R. The slider creates the jumper. Great video. Thanks.
Actually, I may redo mine WITH the jumper as he did in the video! I've been having issues a couple months after installing my T10 (virtually identical to the T9), with it not lighting the ignitor and opening the gas valve. Manually jumping R to W on the IFC board in the furnace cabinet seems to work. Now, I'm suspecting that the built in sliding jumper, which seems a bit loose, may not be making good contact between R and RC on the T10 terminal base.... I may try this trick, and jumper R to RC, and see if that gives a more reliable current.
*Works great: **Fastly.Cool** and Warming environment perfectly controlled. I use 3 in different grow tents. It’s nice to see from your phone how your tent temps are. Does High and Low and records data.*
you made this look easy! thank you for the perfect explanation. i’ve been considering installing a smart tstat in my rental townhouse because it is currently located in an uptairs hallway/open stairwell 🤦🏻♀️ we spend most of our time downstairs and it is SO hard to temp control. anyways i’ve done some research and this one looks perfect for what i need but i was intimidated by having to install it. you’ve given me the confidence to pull the trigger! thanks again!!!
Thank you poating your video. I am switching to this same thermostat soon.
I found this useful, although I have an old Honeywell I'm considering to replace. Thanks.
Great video but during the video I am looking at the cut on his hand thinking god that had to hurt.
Thanks for sharing your nice video and regards.
Thanks for the info. We just bought a house that was built in 1920 with 2 additions that has 2 HVAC systems. I want to get two of these with multiple sensors for each system. One of them is in the basement, so when the temp in the basement is perfect, the upstairs is roasting 😂
Great Video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you!
You mention having a furnace and then call it a heat pump at one point and I can’t tell from the wires what you might actually have (the W is used on heat pumps for defrost, wires directly from stat to outside unit). Wish there were more good videos on the heat pump connections because they replaced our AC unit with a heatpump but we only want it to run as an AC, already have a 90% eff. gas furnace on that unit.
Problem is the T9 can’t be wired for “dual fuel” but maybe the T10 can, will be calling Honeywell today.
Depending on the heat pump manufacturer the orange wire either needs to be joined to the Y at the unit (powered on call) or left capped (no power) so the heat pump knows to run in cooling mode only. O (orange) controls the reversing valve, and you don’t want it jumped on all the time or it might burn out.
Looks like W (white/defrost mode) can be left disconnected for AC-only use. I jumped Y1 and Y2 on my Lenox 2-stage but might have to redo that or some mode jumper on the board because it never kicks down to the second stage with more cooling.
Found a better description of heat pump wiring (W, O/B) here:
czcams.com/video/tf2OxCDwlFY/video.htmlsi=CMtVRz2XNGQGlnwP
Great video though I only have a yellow and red wire only 2 wires
Please tell my husband to cut the power off at the breaker!!!!
Always a good idea. Low voltage like this isn’t dangerous, but if you accidentally short them, you can blow a fuse in the furnace
Any way to install this with only 2 wires?
Now, what happens if my blower won’t shut off?
G (Green) drives the blower fan. Make sure the thermostat is set to Auto fan mode and Heating or Cooling mode on, change temp so it doesn’t run. If fan is still going check the green wire is not jumped on either side. G should go to G between stat and control board only (does not go outside).
If stat is set to Fan Always On or Circulate mode that will turn it on as well when properly wired.
@@kwrzesien17 Ahh.. thanks. My apartment already burned down but i’ll remember this when I move into my next spot.
@@jaywilliams1994 Yikes, stay safe!
I was hooch that I could install this thermostat minus the c-wire. Is there a way?
Yes the T9 comes with a C-Wire adapter that plugs in at the furnace control board.
HI I need your help with wiring . PLease
I was trying to install this thermostat Honeywell T9
but I found many wires 1 Yellow, 2 Red, 1 Green, 2 White , 1 Blue . I don't know what to do !!!
Good luck hire an electrician I only have 2 wires red and yellow
You probably have a heat pump
This has Bob Ross vibes!
Turn the power off to prevent shorting the power transformer and ruining it.