STOP Wasting Time & Money! Woodworking Myths BUSTED!
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- čas přidán 22. 06. 2023
- Today we are going to be reviewing some of the most common woodworking myths. Whether you’ve been building projects for years or just starting out, I bet you’ve run across a few of these. So let's set the record straight so you can save time, money, and frustration!
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Did I miss any myths you've come across? Let me know and it could end up in a part 2!
? Making tabletops by gluing planks together with the curve of the grain across the planks alternating up and down /\ \/ /\ \/ produces the flattest/most stable top.
@@williammaxwell1919 Yes! That is one that I considered including in this one!
End grain glue failures. I have challenged many of the 9million grit evangelists to prove that sharpening to 4,6, 8000 gives a finish 1000% better or easier, they never answered. Also of you plane to those insane grits,you have to lightly scuff the surface for the final finish to adhere. Where are Y'all from? N NC or south VA?
@@brucewelty7684 yeah the extreme sharpening doesn’t help.
We are currently just outside Houston. I was born and raised in Mississippi, but my wife and I have lived in LA, NC, GA, and SC over the years.
I realize this is a late comment. I've been a woodworker for nearly 50 years and agree with nearly all your observations. But, the comment about not saving money on making your own furniture needs some further analysis. You compared making furniture to buying IKEA sub-par, mass-produced furniture. If you are trying to build IKEA quality furniture, then your comment is spot-on. However, I recently built 28 custom cabinets for my own kitchen. It cost me $800 in hickory plywood, $300 in hickory boards, $200 in sanded pine plywood, $90 in poplar boards, $360 in hardware and $100 in epoxy paint/primer. Total = $1850. No labor charge since it was for myself. The cabinets fit into very specific dimensions, had custom features (like skillet hanging cabinet, microwave cabinet raised 12", sweeping curved island, etc., etc.). If I could buy these cabinets, they would be well over $10,000. I also built my wife a waterfall designed vanity desk and mirror from solid curly maple. Again, it cost about $1000 total in material/hardware. This is easily a $5000 heirloom piece, if you could find one. Just these 2 projects alone have financed all my tools. So, my advice to newbies is not to emulate IKEA, but strive to create the best quality furniture that you can build.
Thanks for watching and for your comment! I think you may have missed part of my point around cost savings though. If you are looking at it from the cost of materials for the build ONLY, then you can make the argument that you can do it cheaper. My time and your time has a value to it and should be included in the cost of a build. You also had to purchase the tools required to build projects and maintain those tools, that must be included. The space your tools and materials takes up has a value as well, I see it all the time in my property taxes. Finally, I'm sure you spent years learning how to build those high quality custom cabinets and vanity desk, that time and skill also has a value. Woodworking can become a lucrative business or just an enjoyable hobby, but if someone got into woodworking JUST to save money on furniture for their new house, I don't think they could ever come out ahead. Anyway, that's my thoughts on it.
@@biscuittreewoodworks I get it. All things considered, the greatest value is sharing the skills, time, energy, tools, etc. with my family - regardless of the bottom line. Time spent with the grandkids in the shop is priceless. I wouldn't change a thing. Thanks for the explanation. Really enjoyed your video. Your calm no BS approach is very refreshing.
@@richpeggyfranks490 thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos!
Agree. Leaving a legacy of quality and beauty: our world needs more of both.
I think about the tools. In the long run, the cost of tools more than pay for your furniture? You can make a lot of furniture to sell with tools, right? So when you think about it you are actually being paid profits for as long as the life of the tools for having the idea to build your own furniture. 😂
Maybe the only time you'll save money building your own furniture is as an alternative to paying someone else to make a custom piece. We paid someone to build our bathroom vanity. I'm very happy with the results and don't begrudge him the cost, but it cost a pretty penny. I built my own custom cabinet thing for the family room that integrates with the pass-thru to the kitchen, and in a style that complements the other furniture. It didn't cost me nearly as much as that vanity...unless you count my time. But as my wife says, at least it keeps me out of the bars.
I think most people underestimate how much it costs for custom made furniture.
Great video!!
In the past, I made two custom living room sets, and I will never make fine furniture again.... It's just not worth to time and grief.
Second this, but another note:
If you buy the tools and can make side money selling your projects, the extra can add up into free furniture.
These are great insights and observations. You're correct that if we purchase all our consumables at retail prices, there's no way we can build our own furniture for less than what we can pay for the mass-produced stuff. That said, I’d like to offer some hope for aspiring woodworkers that need to save some money to justify the tools and space that the hobby requires. I've found two ways I can consistently save money by doing it myself:
1. When I’m using heavily discounted or found materials for much of the project. I’m too lazy for pallet wood, but some people are not. In my case I like to start with a cheap or free piece of used furniture, replace the trim and hardware that make it look dated, and refinish it. I’ve made pieces for $100-$200 that would retail for $500+. If you do enough of that sort of thing it will eventually cover the costs of the tools. Just be aware that there’s a learning curve while you figure out how to identify the furniture worth saving and disassemble it without damaging it. I had a few failures before I figured it out. Fortunately, well-built but ugly used furniture is plentiful and cheap.
2. High-quality/low-volume or custom furniture is very expensive to buy. I can usually build it myself for 20% to 30% less than it costs to purchase. Manufacturers of that kind of furniture get materials far cheaper than we do, but labor costs and mark-ups account for a large part of the final price. I get my hardwoods from lumber mills, and my sheet goods & hardware from commercial suppliers, which cost more than wholesale, but less than the box stores. Variety and quality are usually better from these sources as well. I will point out though, that I'm mostly talking about pieces that cost $3000+ to buy and $2000+ to make. Anybody who thinks they can have an heirloom dining room set for a few hundred bucks if they just build it themselves is going to be very disappointed.
Good points! There are definitely ways you can cut some costs! Using free or cheap materials while you are learning is a great way to build your skills before spending a lot on quality materials and having to scrap them due to errors. Unfortunately there are a lot of people who think because you are building something yourself, the cost for a high quality, custom piece should be cheaper than a low quality, mass produced product. It's very sad the number of requests I get to build something and the potential client sends me a photo from IKEA or Walmart and expects me to build a better version AND beat the price!
I think one of the reasons many of us build stuff despite the uneconomic of doing so is what we personally get out of doing it, whether it be satisfaction, achievement, pride...
@@williammaxwell1919 No argument here, but it's also nice to have a plausible case when we tell our better half, "This table saw will pay for itself in a couple years."
Glad you included learning how to correct mistakes. That’s a really important one imo. Great vid!
That's the best way to learn! Fixing mistakes!
I appreciate your knowledge, experience, expertise in this. As a woodworker (50 years) I must agree on the points you've made here. I myself very seldom use biscuits and such. I have many things still to this day that i just glued. Chair seats that have cracked and i just glued it. That seem is almost impossible to break. One thing to mention on that is. Do not try and clean the break up. It will never go back together properly. Just glue it. No biscuits. No dowels. And clamp it good and properly.
Anyways ill be checking out your channel. Thanks for spreading your knowledge. 😊
Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!
Very timely video. I'll be teaching my grandkids about woodworking so learning some of these myths early on will help make them better woodworkers as they get older and more experienced.
That’s awesome!
Lots of wisdom right there. I say one thing about making your own furniture or waddling off to Ikea to buy it. Making it yourself will cost twice or three times the Ikea version ( assuming there is anything similar) but it will be a thousand times more fun and educational to build your own. Plus, it is a great excuse for buying more tools :) Not to mention the skills acquired when making anything yourself. All of that is priceless and will bring many benefits in the future if something does need to be build because it has to be a specific size, shape etc.
Thank you! I agree, this is a lot more fun than IKEA in my opinion!
Can't save money by building your own furniture? I moved into an old house where we got the kitchen expanded and renovated by a contractor. I had two other rooms which needed cabinets and bookshelves made and installed. The quote for those was around $12,000, way out of my budget at the time. I could have brought IKEA but nothing they had would efficiently use the space I had. Besides when I moved in I had to throw out two of my IKEA shelving units because they were so weak they didn't survive the move. The remaining two I salvaged by replacing their backs with more substantial plywood. I brought enough good quality plywood and solid timber to make the shelves and cabinets plus a cheap table saw and router for about $1500. I also salvaged some old solid timber benchtops 2ft by 9ft and 2ft by 10ft and 1 and 1/4 inch thick. A tin of paint stripper and about $10 worth of sandpaper and $20 of polyurethane floor finish turned them into beautiful benches topping the cabinets. You definitely can save money if you are prepared to put the time in. Sure you can do it cheaply by buying cheap factory made chipboard and mdf furniture but if you want solid furniture that will last buy good timber and do it yourself. For example, I brought an old badly damage desk close to a century old. With a good clean up and careful replacement of damaged and missing bits I restored it to its former glory for about $100 for the cost of the desk plus new timber and finish.
I agree I can typically do a better job and have a higher quality product if I build it myself. But as you mentioned it also takes time, and time is money. Not just time building the project but all the invested time in learning how to build quality projects. If someone is only looking at it from a total cost standpoint, you will not save money building your own furniture over buying cheap made furniture.
Great information and very useful. I appreciate that you take the time to cover these items.
Thanks!
I was aware of some of the myths, and I have done some of the things you covered, so thanks for the info. I especially appreciated the advice to not go and point out your "mistakes", because you are right that no one will notice.
The CZcams woodworking channels I like are the ones where the person talks about when they make a mistake in the project they are doing, and how they were able to "correct" the issue so that it either blends into the work, or looks like it was an intentional element of the piece to begin with.
Fixing your mistakes is almost another art and skill in itself!
Love your delivery. I'm new to woodworking and your direct and informative style is great for learning. Thank you! Subscribed 👍
Awesome! Thanks!
As concerns cost of furniture, it depends on what it is built and what tools you need. Back in the broke student days, we built low, chair height stools of cardboard boxes reinforced vertically with a honey comb of cardboard. We built a book case of neon light tube boxes, covered in snakeskin patterned wall paper. These lasted throughout our stay in college. End grain cutting boards can be damaged in a planer as you say. I used a hand plane working in from the edges. That and couple of winding sticks did the trick.
Whatever it takes to get the job done!
great info man! really well warranted.
When it comes to sharpening, I probably would embarrass most woodworkers. My sharpening kit consisting of a single waterstone (can't even remember the grit), and a leather strop. But I can make shavings with my plane blades that you can see through. technique and experience trump tools every time.
That’s awesome! If it works, no need to change anything! Thanks for watching!
Great video, looking forward to your next build
Thank you!
Great video. Glad you pointed out the issue of end grain through a planer. Also Boeshield, so many videos on use this, not that, but I just need to see what works.
Sure thing, glad you enjoyed it!
The best woodworking video I have watched in a week.Thank you.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Nice job. Thank you.
👍
Great advise, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Pre-finishing 👍. I just started doing this with the boxes I make on the interior sides. So much easier to get a nice finish with poly and wipe away glue squeeze out on assembly as you mention.
Awesome!
These are really good tips. Thank you!
Thanks! Glad you liked the video!
I have, and use, all three Titebond glues. Each of them has a specific use and working time. I have not tried the Titebond hide glue, but want to.
That's usually the best approach, use the right glue for the job! I keep TB I and TB II on hand all the time and just pick up TB III as needed.
Very well done video with great common sense input.
Glad you liked it!
Very useful stuff- thank you!
Very welcome!
Biscuits! You speak the truth in your shop. Regretfully money is tight so yes I have the Craftsman tools & table saw Harbor Freight clamps & chisels,etc. trying to learn woodworking. Hope to upgrade in the future. Love your channel. Thanks!
Thank you!
Great content; I hope beginner woodworkers listen to your advice. Being a woodworker - as well as a woodworking teacher - for forty-five plus years, I was surprised to find that I agree to 100% of what you said in this video. Greetings from Sweden. / Peter
They say great minds think alike!
Best video I've seen in a while. Thank you!
Wow, thanks!
Another very informative video.
Thanks again!
New subscriber here! I just discovered your channel. Your videos are great. I appreciate your efforts in sharing your knowledge and skills. I really like your no nonsense, straight to the point style with no dreadful music to complicate things!! I retired a short while ago and am in the process of setting up shop - something I've been wanting to do for a very long time. I look forward to your future videos. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Mike! I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! Good luck with getting the shop set up!
Practicing on scraps works. Sometimes, I buy cheap pine boards or even select pine to try out something. As Diresta says...On the first project, you go to school.
Great tip!
Very good. I’ve been doing this for 55 years and I agree with everything you said here.
Thanks! If I missed any good one's let me know!
I got one! My daughter went with Ikea Pax wardrobe units - one either side of chimney breast in 19th century southeast London terrace. As we know, Pax is not Ikea's strongest product! Over 150 years, that house has twisted like a corkscrew. Floors and walls are... quirky. Took more time modifying those wardrobes and drawers than building from scratch would have done. I had scratch built a whole kitchen for her godmother 30 years ago in a similar house that had added drops and leaning due to being slap in middle of bomb alley for Germans on way to docks in WW2 blitz. So I knew how to cater for flexibility with robust structures. Ah well. Results are gorgeous but it took a lot of work
Wow, I bet that did take a lot of work! Thanks for sharing!
For my cast iron surfaces I have found that Car Guys Hybrid Wax (amazon), or similar alternatives work awesome. They go on easy and IT makes the table surfaces super slick. I used this method on my Dad's table saw down in Fort Lauderdale, where his saw lives in the garage, so it lives in maximum humidity....the coating protected the saw table for 6 months. I applied more, just because...but there was no rust on it. I imagine the more you use the saw the more often you have to apply. I apply once a month just because I use my saw a lot....
Awesome! I know a lot of people really liked Johnson's paste wax, but they discontinued it. I use Minwax paste wax from time to time, but found other materials that work better for me.
Excellent video. Succinct and spot on. New sub.
Thank you!
I agree about the Harbor Freight comment. Most tools I have tested from Harbor Freight do not last. I purchased the Shop Fox first. I use a wood lathe daily and the Shop Fox can not handle the volume of shavings without clogging so I tried the Jet with the same results. I them reluctantly tried the Harbor Freight and actually was amazed. I have had all 3 systems for over two years using daily and have had no issues with the Harbor Freight. You are more than welcome to come to my shop and test all 3 systems.
Interesting. What are the model numbers you purchased?
Good video, please make a part 2.
On it!
Wd-40 and paste wax user here. It's kept my table saw clean and rust free for years, in a garage that's not climate controlled, in the Northeast. I guess everyone's experience may vary.
Yeah, it works I just didn't like how often I had to reapply it to stay rust free. I was in southern Louisiana at the time in a non climate controlled shop.
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
Nice job sir. 👍.
Thank you!
Ive been a cabinet maker, furniture builder and finisher for 50 years, I learned this about 4 hears in. Scrub your cast iron, ( if needed) , with wd40 and fine to medium scotchbrite on an old RO sander.
Wipe away the dludgd znd clean thoroughly with a household cleaner like Formula 409. Make dure its dry and wax with Johnson's paste wax, if yoj can find it ir another good wood finishing wax.
I live in Wi. and it get crazy humid in the summer. I only have to do this ritual evey 6 months and my castbiton always stays rust free.
Thanks for sharing your method! If it's working for you keep it up! I was in Louisiana when I tried using paste wax and had to find something else. I'm in Texas now and the humidity here is also extremely high pretty much year around.
For the most part I agree with his myth busting. Now having said that; Bare steel surfaces I like graphite spray, which is a resin mixed in with graphite. You can visibly see when and where it is wearing off. Please don't tell me "It gets on your wood." Everything you put on these surfaces gets on the wood. Unlike clear or translucent products I can see where it is at and 99% of the time your going to work those surfaces again.
The damp rag to pick up excess glue. Like everything people seem to do, "If a little is good, a lot is better." Money is about the only thing that possibly runs true to. The key here is "Damp" and only if you clean up right away. That means wringing out the rag thoroughly, damp not dripping wet. Really to get the glue out of the rag before you wipe again. The real trick is to use just enough glue that when you clamp up you just get little tiny beads of glue coming out of the seam.
Interesting, I haven’t tried graphite. May test it out sometime.
Well done!
Thanks!
I am a cabinetmaker and find these tip great - still learning - lifelong activity
Glad it was helpful!
This is a fantastic video more please! Thanks for that. Also is this also true for a helical head for the end grain cutting boards?
Yes, the cutters can still catch on the endgrain and do some major damage. Thanks for watching!
You do save money. Woodworking is more expensive than the Ikea stuff, but it lasts 10x longer for double the price. I always say that I get $4,000 furniture for $800.
My first few projects may last longer, but they certainly aren’t what I would call high quality furniture!
I have been using a product from Bostik called Glide Coat for all of my cast iron tables on my equipment as well as the aluminum ones, it leaves a really slick work area with no complications with staining and gluing and i only spray once a year unless i use the equipment alot then i apply when i start feeling drag, I have no problem with rust any more. Its sprays on and after it develops a haze buff it off and your protected. They also make a product called Blade Coat that helps on all cutting blades they both can bought at Woodcraft.
That's a great product, I use it often as well!
Great video and information, always enjoy your videos. Agree the cost of quality lumber and tools may not be less than a mass produced piece. But in those cases, I don’t build… I’ll buy. But custom or higher quality is probably cheaper overall based on labor costs not added into piece.
I do think Non-woodworking, where many of those tools get purchased for both needs… construction or home repairs; the tools pay dividends compared to hired labor. Install new door, shower, wood floor, windows, electrical work, fans, furnace work, etc… the savings in labor cover many tools.
The quality of woodworking is driven out of passion and wanting something not available by mass production. That has value above monetary; and as others indicated… working with hands is therapeutic and healthy… body in motion. I’d rather spend funds on woodworking tools than nursing care sitting around.
Thanks! I agree, the DIY/home repair space is the real money saver! That is unless you screw it up bad enough to make it a bigger job for the professional!
I just found you today I think. I enjoyed your presentation and style and agree with most of what you said. I'll be back.
Awesome!
I use painter tape along glue joints to guarantee that excess won't get places I don't want it. My shop motto;"The 24th times a charm." I do a lot of things on scrap wood for practice, you can never practice too much, especially new methods.
The painters tape trick is a good one for glue cleanup!
I enjoyed watching this video. As a retired high school wood shop teacher I have to plead "guilty" to passing some of these myths along to my students, ie. wiping down glue joints, or setting a hand plane on its side, etc. We didn't have the luxury of time in a 45 minute class, so glue had to be wiped down, or the kids would need a jack hammer to remove the squeeze out the next day 🤬 I agree with Titebond II for most applications, even cutting boards, but when you need some extra open time, I have found Titebond III to be a better choice.
Yeah, sometimes we have to choose the lesser of two evils, wiping away glue with a wet rag is usually better than letting it completely dry. I have used Titebond III when I needed longer open time. They now have Titebond Extend when you need the extra time. I haven't tried it on a project yet but may pick some up. I usually go with epoxy when I need time for a complex glue up.
When I run a cutting board into my Delta planer (RIP) made a terrible noise and broke the blades and even after I replaced the blades still making a terrible noise, running that board was the best thing I did in years because I ended up buying a Dewalt 13" planer :)
Yikes! That’s an expensive way to justify a new planer!
Well said all around!
Thanks!
Great list, thank you! My only concerns is number 1 - not applicable in Netherlands - I am literally building furniture piece by piece for our home. Decent side-table costs around - $400 , the cheapest one in our IKEA is around 100 USD (cardboard+ MSD and cheap heat-applied siding) . When we moved here - delivery was around 1,5 months and costed another 30 USD on top..makes no sense. Now they finally made it cheaper - in delivery, but ..raised prices :-) ..so If a can create a bed nightstands for 200 per piece..we are saving at least half-a-thousand. If I move back in Ukraine - then it opposite, our local furniture is good and affordable.
Thanks for watching! Local availability certainly factors into the cost/benefit evaluation. Thanks for sharing!
My high school woodshop teacher carried a paddle with the words ",the board of education" carved on the face.
Any infraction of the rules and you'd get a quick reminder. I can remember my lesson everytime i pick up a plane.
That's one of those lessons that is very hard to unlearn once it has been drilled into your head!
@@biscuittreewoodworks
I this case also my butt.
Thank you
👍
Regarding saving money...... for Ikea quality furniture, you're 100% right, it's cheaper to buy from Ikea. For heirloom quality, custom built furniture (think $10k hardwood table), it definitely can be cheaper to build it.
That would be true if you assume the person already has the tools and skills needed to build that $10k hardwood table. My example was someone just getting into woodworking to build furniture for their first house. Most beginners starting out aren't going to be able to build to that level of quality. So they are going to start out building lower quality furniture until they build up skills to pull off something better. That takes time and a lot of work. If they wanted the $10k table, it would have been faster and cheaper to buy it in the beginning.
Someone who has been woodworking for years and has the skills to build high quality furniture can absolutely build it for cheaper than you can buy something of the same quality.
@@biscuittreewoodworks You're absolutely right. I was assuming someone who already had the skills and tools. Also, I wasn't factoring in the time either...
"Upgrades". I've been there: no more. I've replaced so many tools that really didn't work so well, some multiple times. My current philosophy: "Buy once, cry once". If I can't afford the best, I'll wait until I can.
That’s always a hard lesson to learn. I still have a few big tools that I’d like to upgrade but they are getting me by for the moment.
I know this is a little late but I just started watching this channel...
Would you mind telling what your drum sander is?
You didn't list it in the tool list that I could see. Also have you done a review of it? Or even a "here's some tips on using a drum sander"?
It's a Performax 16-32. There's no link because they don't make this one anymore. I bought it used from a cabinet shop many years ago. It's pretty beat up but still works. I'd like to get a new, slightly larger one. Mostly because this one was dropped out of a truck and the conveyor is out of alignment and height adjustment screw is bent. If you want something similar check out the Jet 16-32 or SuperMax 16-32.
I agree with using lower cost tools. I buy what I need to get the job done. I also agree with the sharpening tips. again, I sharpen to get the job done. The only issue I have is regarding using a planer on end grain cutting boards. I have been using my planer on end grain cutting boards for years. The trick, that I learned, I surround the board with side pieces that extend a few inches on each end to limit snipe. And a put a leading and trailing piece up tight to the board, 3/4" or so is all it takes. Only take a small off amount at a time. Basically a box around the cutting board.
I've heard of people using that technique for end grain cutting boards. It's still a risky thing to do and not something I would advise people to attempt. It only takes once to damage your planer and ruin your shorts!
Great video. I'd say the one advantage to making furniture or anything yourself is size. When you make it yourself you can make it any size or shape you want to. You can make it custom fit for the space you have.
I've been making sawdust since 1974 and it took me forever to stop pointing out the flaws in the things I made. Most of the time the other person just barely knows the difference between a hammer and a screwdriver so they don't see it until you point it out.
There have been many times I’ve pointed out a flaw to my wife and she still doesn’t see it. At this point I don’t say anything about it unless she asks!
I realised long ago that modifying Ikea can deal with size and shape issues. I cut down a pine loft bed for my daughter by about 7" / 175mm to fit across her narrow room in our tiny house. Gambled on her not growing much after age 12. She didn't. Many other such modifications to strengthen, reinforce, change shape or size
Thanks for a great video, I work and teach as a wood worker and the whole sharpening stone thing drives me nuts, I have used the DMT double sided fine and extra fine stone for about 18 years and a light polished on leather with absolutely no isues, people you don't need to over polished especially if you want to make a living from wood working
Years ago I thought I needed a 18000 or 32000 grit stone to get really sharp tools. Those cost hundreds of dollars! Glad I never went forward with purchasing one, because they are completely unnecessary.
WD-40 is a water displacement fluid, basically. It's not a lubricant long-term, it's basically a cleaning/drying solvent. They have dry lube and silicone sprays that are way better for dust-heavy machines' moving parts and surface protection.
The Festool Domino is one of those tools where nobody needs it, but the speed, accuracy, and repeatability it provides for a pro makes it an obvious upgrade over biscuits, dowels, or using a mortiser.
All true, thanks for watching!
I'll add a tip. When you are making something save all the off cuts until the job is finished. If you need to make a repair to a mistake those off cuts will have matching color and grain to your project.
Yes! That’s a good one!
Biscuits!... but you never ended the extra content with GRAVY
Maybe for the next one!
I have never bought a tool that wouldn't make me a lot of money. I use a good paste wax to keep mu iron from rusting, and it makes things slide great. My domino cutter was a cost of about $25. It uses a guide and a drill. Slower than the $300 ( or more ) tool, but just as effective. Even if you soak a cutting board in water long enough for the water to soak into the wood and soften the glue on the edges, when you let the board dry the glue will become solid again. Never making a mistake in wood working - that is what editing is for!!!
Wish I could say the same, I’ve bought lots of tools I later regretted! I also wish my Domino only cost me $300! More like 5X that!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Yea, I didn't know what they cost, I just knew that they were out of my cost range. My little jig and a drill works just fine. Rockler has one or two. I have the cheaper one.
@@davidcurtis5398 Nothing wrong with that if it's working for you! Thanks for watching and sharing your tips!
Yes, Boeshield works well. I’ve used it for a few years now.
It's a great product!
No need for high end tools like the "Jet" dust collection system in the video. I have one as well as a "Shop Fox" system and a Harbor Freight system which cost much less and clearly out performs both the Jet & Shop Fox
I need some data to back up that claim that a Harbor Freight system outperforms a higher quality dust collector. Harbor Freight is known for cheap tools, not high performance and quality. If it's working for you that's great. These days I stay away from cheap options and try to buy quality tools that perform better and last longer.
I prefer the half dried glue removal technique that you use. It's quicker, easier, and makes almost no mess compared to the wet rag technique.
I’ve tried both, as well as completely dry. I prefer the semi-dry method!
When applying a spray product im suggest by experience, you should not spray it directly onto the surface it's being applied too, like how you showed with the T9.
A better and more economical way is to spray it on to the application rag then apply it to the surface to be coated or cleaned. That way you minimize the amount of overspray onto other things or the floor , into the air you breathe.
You'll find you get a better application on the surface with less spray and wiping. To prove the point clean your car windshield this way and you'll see the difference. Just a suggestion Columbus Michigan
Thanks for the tip!
Hi this was excellent. I have a question for you. I have a Dewalt 611 PK router ( a palm router with a plunger ) I can not use rabbet bit because the bit is a little bit wider than the opening of the base plate. I have been looking for a after market base plate that comes with a base plate opening wider than what I have and I have not been able to find one. Do you know of any ? I appreciate your input. Thanks
I have the same router. Unfortunately I don’t know of a sub base that has a larger opening for it. This limitation is usually to prevent the use of bits that are larger in diameter than the manufacturer recommends. If the bit is that big you should probably use it in a router table or larger handheld router. It can be very dangerous if the bit were to catch and kickback out of your hand. I’ve seen that happen and it’s terrifying!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Thanks or input. This is an excellent point and I did not think of that. I really appreciate your feedback.
For
Thank you for setting me straight about something I've cringed about seeing CZcamsr woodworkers do... putting down a plane with the blade down. Was taught to do this at school, but like a lot of things I learnt at school, I've since learnt they were wrong, e.g. Pluto was a planet. Now I'll be able to watch with less cringe
I was the same once! I used to set my planes down on the side until I learned more about where it started and why. I still do sometimes without thinking about it. At least with the knowledge of why it should or shouldn’t be done we can decide what makes the most sense for us and not judge others for doing it differently!
I bought 99.00 benchtop Craftsman tools @ 19 years ago, and I still use them today. The most expensive tool I own is my Ridgid tablesaw, 600.00. And it was a gift, so I guess I didn't buy it. As far as letting the glue dry for a bit than scrapping it off, it does stain the wood if you leave it on there too long. I wipe mine off with a dry paper towel. Works great and cheap.
My first table saw was a craftsman, but it didn’t last very long. They don’t make them like they used to. If yours are still getting the job done that’s great! I got the Ridgid saw after the Craftsman, and it was fine for a few years. Now I have the Sawstop.
@@biscuittreewoodworks I slso had THE CRAPSMAN tablesaw. Never will I ever. Lol
When I started woodworking, my dad said to me "if it's good enough for an airplane, it's good enough for your tools". Boeshield is the best.
Well said!
I would add one more myth: polyurethane is the only way to truly protect a piece of furniture. Probably because I grew up on Norm and not Roy. Just use Tung Oil or BLO or "Danish Oil" and move on to the next project. @@biscuittreewoodworks
@@jamesgwoodwork True, there are a lot of other options that some people aren't aware of, and all finishes should not be treated equally as well!
While you make a good point about the glue for cutting boards, all of that goes out the window when you hand it to another person (either as a gift or by sale). Never underestimate what becomes your fault when something you made breaks.
True, people will find a way to destroy anything. I’ve sold and given away well over 100 cutting boards and cheese boards. With every one I also include a care and maintenance guide so at least they are made aware of how to treat them. So far I’ve never had anyone come to me with an issue.
New subscriber! Excellent points, especially wiping glue and Titebond 3, I think it looks terrible on fine furniture. My myth is the 5 cut method used on so many CZcams crosscut builds. I square it with the same damn square I build with. If my square says it’s square, it’s square. No offense by the way, seeing your build, but I’ve build many thousand dollar pieces with my crosscut squared with my Woodpeckers 1812.
You are right, a good square is really all you need to square up a sled. I'm an engineer so I get a bit obsessed with accuracy. I even use calipers at the planner to try to get my milled lumber within a few thousandths of an inch.
@@biscuittreewoodworksAll good. I’m an engineer too and obsess over nanometers and picoseonds at work but in woodworking I apply the “significant digits” for accuracy here.
Yea buying tools is more expensive than buying Ikea furniture.
But can be far far cheaper than buying like for like Hugh quality solid wood furniture, especially furniture that is custom made to fit a space.
And at the end of it you have a skill set, and the tools. You could sell the tools, your could make furniture to sell as a side hussel hobbie, or you could keep em making future perosnal projects cheaper
That being said, awesome video. Love the rest of the tips.
Sure, if you turn it into a business you can eventually turn a profit if you are also good at running a business. Lots of people try that and find out it’s a lot harder and a lot less fun than they thought!
Your first myth I disagree with I like 80% of new woodworkers already have what I need to start out on the tread (circulare saw, saber saw, square, strait edge, drill, hammer. a set of screwdrivers,tape measure) all that you need to get started. And don't forget the store furniture will only last 15 years your hand made one if made right will last your grand children lifetime. But your other myths I do agree with you .
Fair enough! It's one of those things I knew not everyone would agree with, but it's how I see things. I know starting out, I built crappy quality furniture because I didn't have the tools or skills to build anything high quality. Now, my furniture is much better, but I have thousands of dollars in tools and materials as well as many years of experience needed to build something better than budget level furniture.
There is a saying in my shop "why buy something at Ikea for $100 when I can make it for $300?" 😁
But in seriousness this whole 'It's cheaper to buy from Ikea' of course is %100 true...as long as your priorities are functionality over style, cost over quality, simplicity over purposeful. Now there is nothing wrong with Ikea, almost no one on the planet hasn't at one stage in their life had/has Ikea products, but there are going to be many many times where the solution or need can't be bought from a store. In those cases it's always cheaper to build....because the piece you want, simply doesn't exist.....yet....🥰
I have some ikea furniture in my house now! Sometimes you just need a quick, cheap solution and that’s just fine, but I much prefer a well made piece of furniture! Thanks for watching!
1:30. What is a hand stitched Japanese chisel?
Lol, that was supposed to be hand forged. That’s what happens when you’re trying to do the 7th take in front of the camera on the same line without screwing it up!
@@biscuittreewoodworks LOL! You know, I searched before asking, too!
Diamond plates seem to have shot up in price... other sources or recommendations?
The prices fluctuate so if you don't need so if you watch them you can grab them at a lower price. You can also get the combination stones that have different grits on each side. They are more expensive than buying a single grit stone, but cheaper than buying two stones.
Water stones are another option. You have to maintain them to keep them flat and they can be messy since you need to keep them very wet while sharpening, but I used them for a number of years before switching to diamond stones.
The end grain through the planer trick. I had a pretty exciting experience. Ruined the work, and the planer blades. Not again!
Tough way to learn the lesson, but I bet you'll never forget it!
@@biscuittreewoodworks And How!
Laying the plane sole down on the workbench is a poor idea. It takes the sharpness down below 1000. Especially if you have sharpened well above 1000. My worksurface is usually untidy enough to lay the plane down without the sharp end touching anything. As for the danger of having an exposed blade, well how much does your blade project? I don’t put mine on its side as it might affect lateral adjustment and mostly out of habit. As for diamond stones, buy discs and use a slope or just get a Worksharp and a buffing wheel.
If you make your own furniture you are likely to service your car, improve your home etc. overall I reckon I have saved a lot doing up my properties and moving on. It’s a way of life that is very rewarding.
Squeezeout is best dealt with as you say by sealing or varnishing around the joint before you glue. I’m the only other woodworker in the world that does this.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Yep
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very true. The first one is very important, esp. if we include our GAS risk into the equation. As far as time is concerned, however, I think it depends a little bit on what you would have spent your time otherwise: If you would have played computer games, watched TV or consumed digital drugs (tik tok, facebook, instagram etc), spending time on improving woodworking skills is not that wasted.
I've pretty much given up TV, but do I spend too much time on CZcams and video games!
hand stitched japanese chisel i think your meant rasp but i know what you meant. Aurora rasps are awesome and they are hand stitched but over 100 a piece. I agree, you dont need high price stuff to make stuff.
Lol, after about the 5th-6th take words get kind of difficult!
@@biscuittreewoodworks i bet, i couldnt do any better
festool is great. definitely invest in their tools. Woodpecker you can do without. they are over priced and you can do the exact same thing with a lot more cheaper measuring tools. I have a TSO giant carpenter square which is much better than any woodpecker L-shaped square.
It depends a lot on what your needs are and if you’re a fan of certain colors!
There is price of building it yourself against IKEA cheap stuff, but with IKEA its hard to go "I build it". Mothertrucker, you just used an allen wrench to screw few mdf together. Not to mention made to fit.
My wife still likes to show off the IKEA furniture she just put together. It's usually sitting right next to a piece of furniture that I worked on over the course of a few months!
Watched till the end to check my WW IQ. Got an A plus. Knew them all. I don't follow them all to the T but they are true.
Great job! If you know any woodworking myths I missed, be sure to let me know!
You can rarely build anything from scratch without spending more money than if you just bought it from the store. That’s not the point though, it’s the experience and skill building that hooks the woodcrafter into this crazy thing. The more crazy you are the more likely you will buy more tools, equipment and materials than you are truly qualified to operate.
🤣🤣🤣
That is so true! I'm glad I have a supportive wife that lets me buy tools and take over the garage!
I think it is rather easy to save money on furniture if you repair and modify exist furniture with simple handtools.
Especially if you like many already have inherited some of the tools and furniture.
If you don't demand very expensive custom furniture you will not be able to pay for new stationary machines by furnishing a single home.
I’ve built my tool set up over many years. All my furniture is either very cheap stuff or solid wood furniture that I built myself.
I find myth #1 to be very true, well except for custom cabinets. I've priced out custom built cabinets for special needs/locations (kitchen and family rooms) and I made my own for less than half. Fine furniture, absolutely not worth the time and material for me.
I do the opposite. I'd rather buy cabinets than build them, but I have no problem spending a lot of time and money building furniture. I'm not in this to save, or make money. I just enjoy the process of building something new!
Bisquit
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I us TB lll for everything.
Nothing wrong with using TB III, it's still a great glue. You just might be spending more on glue than necessary unless you need the specific properties of TB III.
I did really like your tips and how you did propose better alternatives to those myths. Just out of constructive critisism, it did annoy me that the first 1-2 second of each new plan sound louder than the rest. But otherwise it was great !
Thanks for the feedback! I need to figure out how to fix that!
It's funny Folks think water displacement formula 40 can do everything. It's a decent right now if it's what you have for many things but like duct tape it's rarely the best or even correct tool for the job.
Very true! Right tool for the job, not just what's convenient!
hand stiched japenese chisels 😂😂
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I've bought toold at garage sales and estate sales for cheap. You do need have some knowledge of what you need and what to avoid. A $10 bucket of rusty hand planes and some elbow grease can give you many years of service. Also pipe clamps are cheap and all you need is a longer price of pipe for a longer glue up.
Thanks for sharing! I cleaned up and tuned one of my Dad's old planes a few years ago. I think it works better now than it ever did!
The biggest myth not stated- you need a garage full of expensive machines to make furniture. 12 Handtools and a little bit of know-how, that is all you need. The rest is just a lot of money spent, noise, dust, and danger. Now if you are doing production work, then it makes financial sense to purchase the machines. But you don't "need" the expensive machines. The best furniture ever made was made before machines.
Sure, there's nothing wrong with going all hand tools if that's what you're into! Although, some of those hand tools can cost more than most of the machines in my shop!
2nd lie he takes about covers this sort of.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Only someone who has more money than sense would ever need to purchase a "costly" hand tool.
Other than a hand stitched rasp, all the older second hand tools are better than what is made today, at a fraction of the cost.
About hand tools as "your thing", your myth video was about myths, using hand tools doesn't need to be a "thing", It is a far more cost effective way of making things that most of the modern world (other than the US) can afford.
@@bestbuilder1st I will agree to disagree with several of those statements. I appreciate a good hand tool for finesse work but won't be milling all my lumber by hand anytime soon. I also have my share of old and new hand tools and both have their share of diamonds as well as duds. Let's keep the chat positive and not talk down to those who do things differently.
@@biscuittreewoodworks I definitely agree with your last sentence.
You asked for more myths in your video, I thought was providing you some. I was just taking a world view, rather than the large disposable income person's view. I do wish that everyone had the option to have a garage full of machines. If everyone had that option, some would go that way, and others would not; for a variety of reasons. I, like you have been one of the lucky few to have a shop full of machines, but now that I am out of production work, I use hand tools for more than just finesse work.
BTW, the best hand tools I own have all been purchased for a fraction of the cost of today's new tools. I can afford the premium brands, but why would I spend monies on something that isn't going to do anything better for me than an old used Stanely/Record? Premium might be another "myth"?
Got to go to the right lumberyard
Some people have very limited options! I’ve been in areas where it was basically a day trip with several hours of driving if I needed lumber.
I'm not sure myth 1 is a myth. The $2000 furniture I see at a local store, made in mexico, uses real wood, is just mediocre quality. It's not bottom line home depot unpainted cabinets, but it's just not great.
Depends on how you look at it. I'm not talking about someone who has a shop full of tools and has been woodworking for years. In my explanation someone with no tools and no experience wants let's say a new bedroom set. They can go to a furniture store and get decent quality set for around $5000. Or, they can spend a couple thousand on tools and equipment, a couple more thousand dollars on materials (I know because I just spent over $1000 on wood for just one dresser), Now they have tools and materials, but have no experience building furniture. How good do you think their first build is going to be? It will take them at least a few projects to build the experience and skills to make good quality furniture. If that person just wanted to save money, they would save more just buying the furniture. I didn't start woodworking to save money, I wanted a hobby, and hobbies are expensive. I may not have explained it well in the video, but that was the point I was trying to make.