Nabors75
Nabors75
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FiTech - Crank fuel and cold/warm starting
The fuel requirements during cranking are very far from the speed density calculated amount. Thus, the fuel is not using that equation during the time between stall and about 450 RPM. The main factor determining the amount of fuel needed is the engine temperature (very cold requires several times as much fuel as a warm engine), as the fuel wall film needs to be applied, and the cold engine parts will cause most of the fuel to cling to them as a liquid, and not take part in the in-cylinder combustion. The various intake manifolds and engine sizes are also going to affect the amount of fuel required. In order to help the engine start much more quickly, the system also injects a large squirt “Prime Shot” from all of the injectors a few moments after the key is turned on. If the prime shot is not desired, such as if just the radio is to be turned on - pressing the throttle fully open prior to and while the key is turned on and while the fuel pump primes, will cause the Prime Shot to be cancelled.
Prime Fuel Mult = The prime injection will fire the injectors after key on to help make starting much quicker.
Crank Open TPS Mult = If the throttle is opened above this (and below about 50% for clearing flooded engines), the fuel injection is increased. This is to help start the car if the calibration is not yet finalized for starting. Also, the open throttle lets in much more air than just a closed throttle, so the extra fuel is sometimes needed to balance the extra air to deliver a burnable mixture to the cylinders.
Prime Shot Delay = If the engine is not cranked directly after key on, the software will wait a few seconds before injecting the Prime Fuel to allow time for the fuel pump to purge the throttle body of vapors, and get full fuel pressure to the injectors.
Prime Crank Revs = If the engine is cranked directly after key on, the software will wait a few revolutions to allow time for the fuel pump to purge the throttle body of vapors, and get full fuel pressure to the injectors.
CRANK IAC Mult = The IAC is opened an extra amount during cranking to allow more air into the engine for faster starting, and extra torque to spin the engine against thicker cooler oil. Adjust this to get good starting without excessive overshooting after starting.
Crank Fuel 20F = At cold engines, the default calibration increases the fuel injected by a very large amount. However, different engines and manifolds will show different needs. Adjust this to get good starting response.
Crank Fuel 65F = At cold engines, the default calibration increases the fuel injected by a large amount, however, different engines and manifolds will show different needs. Adjust this to get good starting response.
Crank Fuel 170F = At warm engines, the default calibration decreases the fuel injected by a large amount. However, different engines and manifolds will show different needs. Adjust this to get good starting response.
Afterstart 20F = This is the exact same value that is found in the Fuel Control section. It’s here again to help find it quickly when adjusting the fueling just after the engine is started.
Afterstart 65F = This is the exact same value that is found in the Fuel Control section. It’s here again to help find it quickly when adjusting the fueling just after the engine is started.
Afterstart 170F = This is the exact same value that is found in the Fuel Control section. It’s here again to help find it quickly when adjusting the fueling just after the engine is started.
Warmup 20F = This is the exact same value that is found in the Fuel Control section. It’s here again to help find it quickly when adjusting the fueling after the engine is started and the engine is cold.
Warmup 65F = This is the exact same value that is found in the Fuel Control section. It’s here again to help find it quickly when adjusting the fueling after the engine is started and the engine is cold.
zhlédnutí: 103 743

Video

FiTech - Accel pump settings
zhlédnutí 68KPřed 7 lety
Intake manifolds are going to get wet with fuel while running. This wetness changes with temperature, engine vacuum, and air flow speeds. This wetness also must be supplied in addition to the fuel that is intended to reach the cylinders. This wet film of fuel on the surface is much thicker at cold engine (fuel doesn’t evaporate well when cold), and also varies greatly with vacuum (bigger at hig...
FiTech - Hanging idle
zhlédnutí 61KPřed 7 lety
An Idle Air Control (IAC) stepper motor valve is used to open or close a passage in small increments (called “Steps”) that adjusts the amount of AIR going through the throttle. The fuel calculation automatically senses the extra air and AFR, so there’s extra torque produced at idle to increase idle speed or decrease idle speed if the RPM doesn’t match the Target Idle RPM. The amount of steps ne...
FiTech - Dfco settings
zhlédnutí 41KPřed 7 lety
During certain situations, the injectors can be turned off. At high RPM, the injectors and spark can be cut off at the Rev Limit RPM in order to prevent the engine from overspeeding and causing engine damage. This can be a fairly sudden jerking feeling, and shouldn’t be used to hold an RPM point. DFCO stands for Deceleration Fuel Cut Off. When decelerating in gear, the MAP is very low, which me...
Fitech - How to disable fuel learning and fuel trim
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 7 lety
This video will show you how you can disable your fuel learning, as well as your fuel trim closed loop, if required. Scenarios that could require these changes are track staging or if you had an issue with your car or environment that could cause your learning to go out of whack.
Fitech - Adjusting max and min values for fuel trim and fuel learn
zhlédnutí 35KPřed 7 lety
This video will show you where you can read and adjust the minimum and maximum values of your AFR trim and AFR learn. Note: You should not need to adjust these values. If you're finding you do have to adjust these values. You either have the wrong cam setting chosen, or an issue with your engine. (vacuum leak, O2 sensor, etc)
Fitech - How to read your fuel table learned values
zhlédnutí 23KPřed 7 lety
A quick video to show people how to see what their fuel tables have learned using the fitech EFI system.

Komentáře

  • @paulardini7853
    @paulardini7853 Před 10 měsíci

    hi, I have a 427 small block 13-1 comp, running E -85 112 octane. got unit back from fitech, but at wot its a dog ,they dont seem to want to help much at fitech. the motor makes around 600 hp when running rite . need help badly.

    • @Nabors75
      @Nabors75 Před 10 měsíci

      Too many questions for a comment reply. So many factors go into your issue. The first thing that pops to mind is simply the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, injectors, etc) may not be able to keep up at WOT. Remember if you are running E85 you will need significantly more fuel flow.

  • @Peewee0413
    @Peewee0413 Před 2 lety

    First off you're an amazing guy, thanks for spreading your knowledge. I have a Fitech 30002 in a Built 93 k1500 4l60e When I get into 4th it's goes rich..13.8 or so. What's the fix if you know it?

  • @mikeburnett7028
    @mikeburnett7028 Před 2 lety

    I reset my fuel cutoff settings to your recommendations. WOW. what a difference it made. So glad I found that video. Now I won’t need to have it professionally tuned. Thanks again

    • @Nabors75
      @Nabors75 Před 2 lety

      Glad it helped!

    • @mikeburnett7028
      @mikeburnett7028 Před 2 lety

      Do you have any more tips I can use for my big block 5 speed Nova?

    • @Nabors75
      @Nabors75 Před 2 lety

      @@mikeburnett7028 Really depends on the goal. Watching my videos that I did a few years ago, but there are also some videos by Fitech themselves finally. Also look for a few other content creators like SS454LS6 who did a deeper dive into some of the advanced tuning and logging. The Fitech are limited in there adjustments, but definitely some things can be tweaked to help guide the "self learning".

    • @mikeburnett7028
      @mikeburnett7028 Před 2 lety

      Thanks for the tips. I will check them out. 👍

  • @mikeburnett7028
    @mikeburnett7028 Před 2 lety

    Just found your video on setting decel speeds on your FiTech. You said to make settings to 16 and 18 for a manual shift car. I’m going to make that adjustment in the next couple days, I hope it works. When I remove my foot from the accelerator at speed, it doesn’t idle down very fast, and I have to brake sooner than I need to. I hope your settings work for me

  • @dylanhager8548
    @dylanhager8548 Před 5 lety

    Can you help me out? My car starts up just fine in the morning, but doesn’t want to idle in park very well. It’ll stall unless I put it I’m drive. I checked for vac leaks over and over again. Thanks hope to hear from you

  • @kevinchand100
    @kevinchand100 Před 5 lety

    Hey are you able to help tune my car with a fi tech 1200hp power adder. I will pay you!! Email me kevinchand12@gmail.com

  • @deegasparro8447
    @deegasparro8447 Před 6 lety

    finally got it right! fitech 02 sensor is crap! go out and get a real bosch 17014 sensor :>

    • @vigilante351
      @vigilante351 Před 6 lety

      Replacing your O2 sensor is still working ok for you? Thinking I may have to do the same.

  • @deegasparro8447
    @deegasparro8447 Před 6 lety

    Please help...fitech PA 400, my problem is afr's are reading 15-16 at idle and 14 at full throttle. cam is a 110 lsa.. no exhaust leaks but engine is running really rich.. when i floor it black heavy exhaust. but afr reading 14... i been reading and tuning for months..I would appreciate any advice pointing me in the right direction Thank you

    • @itzsupercharged3248
      @itzsupercharged3248 Před 5 lety

      Dee Gasparro same happening to me! Have you found a fix yet?

    • @normanmakaio
      @normanmakaio Před 5 lety

      I'm having a opposite issue from you guys..im at a rich high 10 to high 12 afr at idle..and goes to 12.5 at wot.no exhaust leaks that I can find..

  • @B-ray88888
    @B-ray88888 Před 6 lety

    I have a manual transmission car and every time I approach a stoplight and push the clutch in the car dies but will immediately crank back up when I turn the key what do I need to adjust or which video do I need to watch

    • @Nabors75
      @Nabors75 Před 6 lety

      Barry Glenn common issue. Most likely the dfco kicking in too much. Lower dfco cut map to 16 and return map to 18. That will probably resolve it.

  • @dennisbryan7522
    @dennisbryan7522 Před 6 lety

    Just sitting here smell like gas because my car runs super rich

  • @mcphotolock1
    @mcphotolock1 Před 7 lety

    dude I love your videos, fitech is not great in the support department. I am having no luck with the tech dept. I installed my 400hp system and it ran awesome, very happy. But if I shut the engine off and restart, it runs like a choked carb, super rich. If I do a "reset learn" it solves the problem, until I shut it off again. I am confused, any suggestions.. mike

    • @Nabors75
      @Nabors75 Před 7 lety

      Firstly, join the Fitech owners group on facebook. We help a lot of owners there with support. Second I can think of two things for your issue. If you just mean it has issues starting on a warm engine. You'll need to look at your crank fuel settings. Specifically the prime fuel settings. By default they are quite high. Works well for cold starts. Not so much for hot. If it's rich all the time after you run it for a bit, and a reset fixes it for awhile. Then I would guess you have a vacuum leak, or air is getting to the O2 sensor somewhere. This would lead the AFR's to read normal, but in fact the engine would be running super rich. You would want to look at your AFR Trim and AFR learn. The VE tables in the fitech are quite rich by default, so typically most engines will have the AFR learn in the negative values. If you see your's in the positives, especially at idle. Then I would be checking your ports, gaskets, and make sure you aren't using the clamp on O2 bung. It should be welded in.

  • @blairo15
    @blairo15 Před 7 lety

    Very useful info mate! 👍

  • @NashvilleEarlyBronco
    @NashvilleEarlyBronco Před 7 lety

    Should I be worried if most of my numbers are above 100? Or is there an adjustment I need to make?

    • @Nabors75
      @Nabors75 Před 7 lety

      Nashville Early Bronco look at your plugs. If they're tan/light you're fine. If they're black and rich or wet. Then you have a vacuum or free air leak that's skewing the O2 readings and making it run rich.

    • @NashvilleEarlyBronco
      @NashvilleEarlyBronco Před 7 lety

      Nabors75 yeah I feel like above 2000 RPM is starts running really rich. IAC starts jumping super high and it almost feels like it's getting bogged down with fuel. One of your videos you mentioned how the adjusting the cam size in the initial set up can adjust a lot of the fuel settings, I'm going to change my cam setting and see if that helps too. Thanks for the videos!

    • @NashvilleEarlyBronco
      @NashvilleEarlyBronco Před 7 lety

      Nabors75 yeah I feel like above 2000 RPM is starts running really rich. IAC starts jumping super high and it almost feels like it's getting bogged down with fuel. One of your videos you mentioned how the adjusting the cam size in the initial set up can adjust a lot of the fuel settings, I'm going to change my cam setting and see if that helps too. Thanks for the videos!

  • @ShenRC
    @ShenRC Před 7 lety

    cool tried it and it worked!

  • @starbattles1
    @starbattles1 Před 7 lety

    Mine doesn't have this pro tuning. I bought there most expensive best one WTF?!?!?

    • @Nabors75
      @Nabors75 Před 7 lety

      starbattles1 it has to be enabled. Go to display. Find pro tuning. And change to "show"

  • @DrFail35000vr
    @DrFail35000vr Před 7 lety

    Thanks, appreciate the help here and on the chevelle forum

    • @vicsmailes9960
      @vicsmailes9960 Před 6 lety

      My first timer at this. I have reset my handheld and I can't get my iac steps below 146. Any ideas?

  • @colbysswaim
    @colbysswaim Před 7 lety

    If you are running a boost application and you don't want to confuse the computer by pulling the car up on a 2-step for drag racing; would you then want to disable both?