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Dzięki!

Yes, photo-etching using ferric chloride (FeCl₃) will also work on a copper plate. Ferric chloride is commonly used for etching copper in processes such as the production of printed circuit boards (PCBs). It reacts with copper, dissolving it and forming soluble copper compounds, which allows for the precise removal of material from the surface of the copper plate. Remember to take appropriate safety precautions during the etching process, such as wearing protective gloves and working in a well-ventilated area, as ferric chloride is a corrosive substance.

@@model-ma-king Great! Thank you so much. You did an amazing video. I hope to see more soon!

Also, I’d like to know if I could get the same result using photosensitive dry film instead of Positive 20. This is because Positive 20 seems very hard to get in the USA

Yes, you can use film, and the effect will be the same. However, the process of applying the film and getting rid of air bubbles seems quite complicated to me, but it will definitely work. Right now, I'm trying to use 3D printing resin as a photosensitive substance on a metal plate. The image needs to be projected with an old slide projector but with a UV lamp. I might make a video about it. Good luck with the film!

@@model-ma-kingyes please make a video on that, very interested. thanks

Używam kilkakrotnie dopóki nie straci „mocy” tj. ok 4 razy a potem dolewam świeżego. Muszę też przyznać, że nie produkuję hurtowo tych części więc raczej nie mam dużego zużycia. Zrobiłem kilkadziesiąt małych płytek używając litra kwasu.

@@model-ma-king przygotowujac się do materialu natrafiles gdzieś na informacje jak wygląda fototrawienie na większą skale? Bylbym wdzięczny za jakieś materiały

@EverynyanSan Tak, jest kilka filmików z produkcji seryjnej (np. Eduard coś tam pokazywał) ale to głównie już duże, drogie maszyny.

I'm not really sure how to answer. I just draw in a graphics program using black and white colors. Draw the steering wheel in black using some tool for creating circles. Draw the arms of the steering wheel with lines or fills. Add details with black or cut out with white. Then outline the entire steering wheel in black and print it on printing film. There are plenty of free sketching programs and lots of instructional videos, so you'll definitely manage. Alternatively, you can also draw on the film with markers by hand using a compass and ruler. Another method could be to use a black and brown illustration of the steering wheel, which you copy onto the film with a copier and correct with markers. I hope these tips help.

@@model-ma-king thanks for the tips. I am going to look for a suitable program for drawing and try to scan/draw the wheel.

Honestly, you surprised me with that question. I've already sold several of those textbooks, and I have PayPal connected for payouts, but I'm not sure about the purchasing process itself - I think it's possible - I'll try to buy my own product from another account, then I'll know and let you know. If I understand correctly, have you already tried to do this?

@@model-ma-king thanks for this, just purchased the book.

Thank you very much. I regret that I don't have the time because I have a lot of ideas for new episodes, but my professional work doesn't allow me to pursue them.

I recommend using plates from 0.1 to 0.2mm thick. Thicker ones will etch for so long that the edge may be uneven. In cross-section and under high magnification, instead of being smooth, pitting will be visible if the process takes too long.

​@@model-ma-king 0.3 mm copper would work too. However you need a foam etching process with Ferrite-3-chloride at 30 to 45 degrees Celsius. The foam needs to gently flow over the plate from both sides.

I think 0.2mm is maximum. Most common is 0.1mm.

@@model-ma-king thanks for info

The trick is that the images on both sides of my "sandwich", into which I insert a plate, differ from each other - if the same thing is in the same place on both, then etching from both sides of the plate will lead to it being etched through. If, for example, a letter is drawn on only one of them, then the etching process there simply lasts half the time, so it will be etched halfway through. It's just a matter of designing the drawings exposed on the plate - during the etching process itself, there's nothing else to do. This is well explained in the PDF, which you can buy on my Patreon.

@@model-ma-king Ooooh, ty.

Yes but you will need time. Effect is the same.

​​@@model-ma-kingI'm interested in this alternative method using a 3D printer. Could you elaborate more on how would it work?

@lestatdelc I think it's a great idea! Most of the process will remain unchanged, only the etching phase will be different. I wish you success and suggest considering printing a 3D pattern on a metal plate using a 3D printer? Instead of exposing Positiv, you print a thin layer directly onto the board attached to the printer's printing plate? I thought about it recently but haven't tried it yet.

Give me your email - I'll think about how to handle it.

Best of all, it's so simple!

@@model-ma-kingJust to add note, you can buy syringes without needles, and there are caps available, so you can avoid having to make your own cap from the needle. Although the offcuts from the needles can be useful as small tubes, barrels etc

You can also use the ends of toothpicks or patafix as stoppers, but as you mentioned, cut-off needles make great replacement parts. The most important thing is to remove the air.

Thank you!

I happen to use ArchiCAD because I am an architect, but it's not really dedicated to this purpose and it's quite expensive. The main requirement is the ability to do vector drawing and set the appropriate print scale. I think that among the free options, Inkscape or Gimp should be decent, although I admit that I used them a long time ago... Among paid but affordable programs, I recommend Affinity Designer. Ultimately, you can try to copy existing elements by placing them on a transparency sheet and spraying black paint with an airbrush... even using markers is an option. Regards, and thank you for the kind words. I'm a very busy person, but I promise more interesting episodes in the future.

I used the FOLEX BG-32 PLUS film and didn't test others, but I think it doesn't make a big difference. The main goal is to ensure the best print quality. During the exposure process, what's essential is the darkening of the print since the film itself doesn't participate in chemical processes. My printer is an Epson L130. I'll just hint that it's worth converting the file from PDF to Bitmap, e.g., TIFF, because printer interpreters reduce the resolution of vector line vertices, and I was surprised by the significant difference in the final print - especially with such small details. If you want more details, I've prepared a PDF description in various languages. Let me know how to send it to you.

@@model-ma-king can laser printers be used in this process or just ink jet? Kind regards Tj

Yes, you can use laser printer but be sure to buy foil for that type of printing.

@@model-ma-king Thankyou for the prompt response, i am unsure what foil is used for in this process?

Another method is asking a printing company to make a lithographic film of it. And indeed TIFF or BMP are the best choice 1200 X 1200 DPI is sufficient each dot would be 0,021167 mm x 0,0021176 mm

I use a laser printer. Toner printers work better than inkjet printers😊