Video

hmmm, stainless steel. have not done stainless steel. question I have is if you are nickel plating stainless to match the finished look of adjacent parts? rust resistance should be similar for the two metals.

@riccardosdiyandrestoration No, I build hydrogen cells, hho generators, and nicke produces more hydrogen. l

@@newageautotechnology Nice. Unfortunately I cannot provide any additional info, however, if I get a chance this weekend I will try and see if it plates. Getting the unit to deposit a layer will happen, I just don't know what the adhesion will be like.

@riccardosdiyandrestoration thanks let me know what happens, please .

Hi rex_rubus, my understanding is that the voltage and current rails are designed to deliver the rated outputs via dedicated circuitry rather than a large pipe that is then divided into the various voltage components. Based on this understanding, you cannot simply combine the circuits to provide the amperage that you are looking for. I think that the PSU manufacturers take a bit of description license when advertising a PSU total wattage as the sum total, however, this is never what is available along the individual voltage rails. Also, it is important to note that these PSUs have been designed to operate in a particular environment that never requires the total amperage on any of the individual voltage rails because PCs are not intended to draw that total power. Hope that helps. Cheers

Thank you for the tip.

Ideally I would have liked to weld it, but I suspect that I didn't have the right gear or the right skills. So in this case the transducer was only epoxy onto the base.

@@riccardosdiyandrestoration but what is that black spot at inner side of the pot?

@@p_peja :-( That was my failed attempt at initially trying to weld it on. The transducer is only attached with the epoxy, however, in saying this, the unit continues to perform well. I am thinking of upgrading the unit with additional transducers - I might try the welding again on the additional units.

@@riccardosdiyandrestoration thank you for clarification

Da, folosit și pentru curățarea cărămizilor și adăugarea la piscine.

@@riccardosdiyandrestoration Înseamnă că este bun și cel din bateria de mașină.

@@alexandruene6069 Ar trebui să fie bine. Acidul este componenta care îndepărtează rugina, motiv pentru care funcționează și acidul acetic. Principala diferență pe care va trebui să o cunoașteți este concentrația acidului. Nu știu care este concentrația acidă a acidului bateriei, cu toate acestea, un mic test ar trebui să ofere câteva îndrumări. Ea poate fi întotdeauna slăbită.

Sper ca românca mea să fie bine.

My understanding is (if I can recall my high school chemistry classes) that you can dilute the solution, however the resulting lower concentrations of nickel in solution will result in longer plating times.

Yes, you need some vinegar (ascetic acid) to produce the nickel acetate, but the product you want is actually the salt. If you let the vinegar and water evaporate (they fully evalorate) then you would be left with green crystalized solids. That is often how it's sold. Dont let large amounts of acid fume out in a closed space though, especially not a garage with tools ect. the fumes will make other things oxidate quickly.

Glad that you have made it. I'm not having the same lid issues. I expect that there may be some tolerance variations between buckets which may explain the lid issues.

Thanks for the reply, I happen to have a 2nd bucket / lid & will try my look with that one, leaving the tabbed piece on this time for more leverage. Looking forward to giving it its maiden voyage. @@riccardosdiyandrestoration

@@dermo43 My fingers are crossed for the second bucket.

I have only seen the points loose implying loading one at a time, however I cannot see that this is very efficient. I recall seeing a picture a long time ago where the points were stacked like regular staples which would make loading significantly easier. Unfortunately although noting at the time that this was a good idea, I did not keep the details or even checked that they were suitable for the Red Devil.

Thanks

Still using ERRiK a year later.

Thanks for the feedback.

Always appreciate feedback. 12 months on and it is still looking after my workshop cleaning requirements when it is not attached to my tablesaw.

Gracias. Estoy muy contento con el resultado de este proyecto.

Exactly.

Yes way. Didn't include the cost of the electrical switches and the timber, but those were leftover items from previous projects. Ultrasonic was $70ish, and the pot about $15. The rest were minor fixings etc. Hope you enjoyed the video. It's a few months old, but the unit is still working well.

Thanks for the feedback. The background music is evolving as we get the right balance. I need to mute the actual audio because of background copyright music. Again, I appreciate the feedback.

Excellent suggestion. I have tended to suspend items from a bar across the top of the unit, but a trivet would be a quicker option and definitely better for smaller items. Appreciate the feedback.

I like to have variety in the channel. thanks for the feedback.

Hi Joseph, Thats a good question. I have previously sent people to the following link to purchase the diamond points www.ebay.com.au/itm/353942876217 but I notice that the listing has gone. The Red Devil company (www.reddevil.com) might be able to help. I have emailed Red Devil and asked them if they are able to point (no pun intended) me in the correct direction for replacement points. I will update the video description to provide a link for replacement points should they come back with some useful information. Cheers Rick

@@riccardosdiyandrestoration I thought the points were diamond shaped, not triangular. The hole for the points is diamond shaped.

@@josephhaddakin7095 Yes diamond shape. Last time I went to the link it showed me as product not found, I just tried again and it is showing triangle points. Triangle ones are definitely not correct. I am hoping to get a response from Red Devil - will let you know as soon as I have some info from them. I will continue looking online, but I suspect that I will be covering ground that you may have already covered - in any case, if I find anything I will let you know. Cheers.

I did some research and I think they are 3/8 inch diamond points.

@@josephhaddakin7095 Brilliant. Can you send me the link if you purchase them? A few people have asked in the past.

Worth a try. If I remember my high school chemistry, reactions can be accelerated with the introduction of heat particularly for non-exothermic reactions.

Thanks Edmond. I have been using this setup since I made it and have been pleasantly surprised at how well it is working. Truth be known, I was not expecting it to operate as well as it does.

Watc to the end. All will be revealed.

Sure did. Ultrasonic transducer was about $70. Pot was about $15. Electrical less than $10. I already had the timber and the fixings. I suppose if we factored the timber then we may go over $100, but not by much. Appreciate the feedback.

@@riccardosdiyandrestoration Here in canada, it would have cost much more

@@chauffeurmarco Prices are going stupid everywhere. Cheers

Cheers, appreciate the feedback.

Thank you

Thanks Sven, appreciate the feedback.

Welcome to the fold grasshopper.

Cheers. I have a rocking chair resto filmed which should be up within a week.

Thanks Miguel. The original diamond points can be found (www.ebay.com.au/itm/353942876217), but I believe non-original ones are also available. Your local hardware store or toolshop should be able to help.

Thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback.

Hi Michigan Mike, The silver points retaining clip easily slides up, swing it over to expose the points reloading chamber. Once you have inserted the points, swing the clip back over and push it down so that the points are pressed down (like in a stapler). Have fun doing your unit up. Cheers Rick

@@riccardosdiyandrestoration do they just stack up loose or did they come in a glued together stick?

@@michiganmikeupnorth Hi Mike, my unit only had a small number of loose points. There worked fine, however purely from an ease of loading point of view, I would imagine that the points would be stacked and glued.

@@riccardosdiyandrestoration thanks for the info.

I have only seen stainless. I think it is for the rust resistance and so that there is minimal reactions with some of the cleaning fluids that might be used.

Thanks for the feedback. Lots of very useful and relevant information. Very much appreciated.