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My question is: after i change the cam, how long before it fails again?

I know it’s been 3 years ago since you made this video, but I did the exact same thing that you did and it somehow “unlocked” the motor, and after putting it all back together, it works like a champ again, thank you!

Went thru the same problem with my step. Steps were in the closed position so I just removed the motor (3 10mm bolts) from the gear box and the steps come down. (had disconnected power to the gear motor) I had put outside battery power to the gear motor when it was installed and got no response. After taking motor off the gear unit I applied power to the motor and got the same result as Steve. Motor began to work and re-installed the motor on gear unit of kwikee step on Rv and steps work again. Point here is I did not have to loosen gear box I just removed the motor and the steps came down. I did not have to touch the cotter pin or the gear box. Easier way to get the steps down if you have access to the 3 bolts of the gear motor.

Why didn't you drop whole gear/motor assembly down to work on bench ?

Wow, that’s the same thing that happened to mine took it apart put it back together and it runs beautiful

Well done. Same problem here. I’m considering putting a better video out though with use of torches, sledge hammer. Holesaw

And this is just why I do not like the Over Head Valve Engine, All manufacturers do this so that the Engine will brake Down more and faster. The older flat head was and is the best......

If your steps are stuck make sure your RV is level. Our motor home didn’t look too out of level to me when our steps got stuck closed. My wife insisted we just needed to level the RV as the steps were likely bound up. Once again, she was right.

Thanks for the video Steve!! Looks like I'm not getting any voltage to the motor from the gear controller.

Absolutely the best advice about stuck Kwikee steps!!! I did exactly as you instructed; loosened the 4 bracket bolts, took out the cotter pin, removed the pin and bingo stairs dropped to easily access the motor, which, not so ironically, behaved the same as your motor. Hot wired it to a battery, sparked once and started to spin. At that point I put it all back together and everything worked perfectly. Sending new motor back to Amazon tomorrow. You are a lifesaver! Not sure what caused the problem in the first place. My RV (2016 Holiday Rambler Augusta) had been sitting for 5 months in FL so maybe the grease dried up and caused it to jam. Just guessing.

Thanks, I had the exact same issue, and resolved it the same way you did, just a 2 step model.

what am i missing here i have worked on (engines ) since i was 12 yrs old my first eg was a 5 hp outboard mtr. elgin i was hooked early im 88 now dont recall ever running into this problem .. i have 2 riding mowers now ...

When You disconnect and reconnect, it resets the controller and it works again.

The same thing happened to me the last time I fixed it. I have no idea why it magically started working but I tested everything and it all seemed to work so I put it back together and it was fine. I was thinking something I the gear box might have got hung and loosening it freed it?

Thanks for posting this. There are so many videos that show how to replace the motor assuming your steps are down but none if they are retracted. And, in my 25+ years experience with cars, boats, and now RVs, my repair is NEVER the simple fix! By the way, I think your motor had a dead spot on the windings so when you reversed the current, it moved the position of the armature over a good spot. Do you happen to know the part number for the motor ideally a cross referenced part at Napa or Autozone so I do not have to pay Kwikee prices?

I replaced my camshaft with the compression release valve on my Inteck motor . Of course the release valve was junk. I got it going and about two cuts later the compression release valve had broken again. I've read where several people have had this happen!

Thanks for the info. Without it I wouldn't have tried to fix it myself. Your solution was "spot on." Steps now working just fine. Saved me a whole bunch of money.

So frustrating not have any tools that are needed good tutorial almost makes me feel like I can do it

Here is an easier solution that will work for some people. Disconnect the two wire connector going to the motor, then supply power and ground to it (reversing power and ground if necessary). If your motor still works this should extend your steps (it did for me). You can take power from the red wire on the four wire plug. If you want to bypass the controller and door switch search for "reverse polarity switch 12v" to get a switch for manually extending and retracting the steps.

Thank you Steve. I tried for 3+ hours to figure out how to lower my stuck steps. Most videos show how to replace the motor with the steps down. That is easy. What a great feeling after following your instructions to loosen the 4 nuts holding the assembly and seeing the steps starting to lower. I was then able to get to the cotter pin and slide out the linkage pin. From there it was easy. Not even the Kwikee techs knew this solution. You saved me $$$. This was so helpful I had to comment. My first time ever leaving a comment.

Got to say dirt or corrosion was the culprit! Thanks!! Got the same job to do this weekend!

Steve, your video helped me with the exact same problem. AND like you, I took the motor out and put 12VDC to it both polarities and it worked fine without hesitation. Put the motor back in and it worked again just fine. Yet when I previously disconnected the 4 wire plug AND connected a two wire motor pigtail and applied 12vDC to it in place the step would not work. Since the motor was isolated from the controller at that point it has to be something to do with the motor. Curious if your step has continued to work or whether it quit again.

Does the manufacturer make any changes in the part for durability because I have the same problem with only 35 hours on the engine.

Nylon? Mallet? Anyway, thank you very much for this tutorial. I will be attacking mine tomorrow.

I order all the motor and control box. Wired at up. Replace rage magnet..still nothing...so frustrating. Time to call the mobile Rv. Ugg 👎🙃

Great video... but you said at the end to torque bolts ( ft. lbs ) .I think it should be (in" lbs ) ??

Inch pounds....of course, not foot pounds.

I THOUGHT this is what I was going to have to do, and you have confirmed it. I have the same situation, steps are stuck up. I had this opposite problem a few years ago, steps stuck down so it was easy to do the dismantle. Turns out, I did just like you, took it all apart, put back together....everything worked perfect, reassembled and it worked until today. I think it just wanted me to go through the motions.Thanks!

B/S Chinese junk mine did the exact same thing motor only had 20hrs on it good video on how to

Hey Steve, not sure about your exact step set up. Mine has an Allen head that attaches the steps to a bar that is turned by the motor to make steps extend an retract. If no power you could easily remove the two Allen head bolts and pull the steps out by hand.

Thx steve, been trying to figure out how to do this for a few days, just found your video.

I replaced my cam. The lobe is hiting the crank. When the timing marks line up. Put the old cam back in same thing. It a 17.5 briggs. Dont what I'm doing wrong.

Yeah, I kept saying retract instead of extend. My bad, please forgive me!

I think it's the Exhaust valve that releases the compression, otherwise it would pop out the carb. Should always check the valve lash before you open it up. I purchased a 21 hp motor for 50 bucks, it wasn't the compression release, it was the valve lash. Same symptoms as compression release broken.

I plan to do this in the near future. Any additional words of advice?

Steve i cant read the model number on my motor,can you give me the part number for the cam?mine is a single clyd also.17hp briggs and stratton.

I think many so called “Common” issues with Briggs and Stratton mower engines (or any lawn tractor engine) is that people DONT change the oil. Just like this engine, the oil that came out is that engine was black and looked like it had not been changed for several seasons. It’s no wonder camshafts break and other internal problems occur. I have owned many Craftsman engines in my 46 years and have never had any internal problems that I had to open the crankcase up to repair. But then again, I change the oil every season (sometimes twice) and always use full synthetic oil. Oil is the blood of any combustion engine and should be changed regularly, if you neglect that service, you will have issues in the long run.

The plastic gear on camshafts on some B&S motors will also break loose and slip on the camshaft and throw the cam timing off,

Thanks a lot, I would never have guessed to do that

Good work, thanks

Thanks for this tutorial ! About how many hours or seasons on that Briggs before it "grenaded" ? How's it running now ?

Great instructional video. Thanks

Good job

Curious how you lined up the slot on top to the cam into the oil pump? Must pop right in when the engine spins?

Can we expect this cam flywheel to break on the replaced cam as well ? Is the cam just a real cheap part and the flywheel relief just breaks because it's junk ??

Just going through this myself. One of thing to mention is the drive pulley it doesn't just fall off after you remove the 16mm bolt. I was lucky, I pulled up on the motor and those ears in the center held the lower pulley and it slid off the PTO shaft. I thought there would be need for a puller.

Showing the torque pattern would have been helpful as there is a specific pattern to follow. Nice job!

I know it wasn’t the problem with this mower but check the valve clearance before replacing the cam because it can cause a similar problem

You are way off on your torque specs. 220 ft lbs will stripe out the threads. Torque should be around 20 ft. lbs.

Where do I find torque specs?