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- 969 340
Film Purist
United States
Registrace 29. 10. 2007
Durango to Spanish Peaks Summer 2023 (silent)
My first attempt at 16 mm film.
Shot on a Bolex H16, (non-reflex) with a 15mm YVAR f/2.8 lens and Kodak 50D 7203.
Shot on a Bolex H16, (non-reflex) with a 15mm YVAR f/2.8 lens and Kodak 50D 7203.
zhlédnutí: 38
Video
National Graflex Series II
zhlédnutí 594Před rokem
This is a video about my first two rolls though this classic 1930s camera.
Contax T Mini Review with Ilford XP2
zhlédnutí 498Před rokem
A very short review of the Contax T. Like - small, great optics, fun to shoot. Dislike - small controls for a small camera.
One Year with the Widelux F6 in Colorado
zhlédnutí 4,1KPřed rokem
My thoughts after 1 year with the Widelux F6 camera. How I use it, how you might use it and some of the images I have made using this camera. Images from Colorado.
How I Use The Olympus Pen F
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed rokem
How I use the PEN F half frame 35mm SLR. flic.kr/s/aHBqjAvJo3 Sorry about the audio, I used a different mic and it did not work as well as I had hoped.
Shooting 35mm Cinema Film: A still photographer's guide to shooting ECN-2 films
zhlédnutí 293Před 2 lety
ECN-2 Film Overview A film about how I shoot ECN-2 films, my workflow, where I buy the film, how it shoots, were I get it developed and how I scan this film on an Epson V800 scanner. This also covers the daylight vs. tungsten film white balance in daylight settings. My preferred lab for ECN-2 development www.colorlab.com/film/film_processing.html Where I purchase ECN-2 film, note this is not DX...
Colorado with the GA645
zhlédnutí 3,8KPřed 4 lety
Photography with the GA645 in Colorado in October of 2019. Using Portra 400, Acros 100, and Velvia 100 and 50.
Nikonos V Overview
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 6 lety
Overview of features of the Nikonos V underwater camera. A rugged SCUBA diving 35mm camera.
Why Ilford DD-X is Awesome!
zhlédnutí 19KPřed 6 lety
A breif review of why I use Ilford DD-X. Why you might consider using it too, and if you don't shoot Ilford film then why you might consider a liquid developer.
Ilford Antistatic Cleaning Cloth
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 6 lety
Mini Review of the Ilford Antistatic Cleaning Cloth. This is a great cleaning cloth. I have had more than one, although it last for a long time. It is simply the best cleaning cloth that I have used. I highly recommend it.
Why HP5 Plus is Awesome
zhlédnutí 3,8KPřed 6 lety
Why Ilford HP5 is a great film and you should should try it if you don't already shoot it.
Greenhorn Mountain Pentax 67
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 6 lety
A hike on the Greenhorn Mountain Trail in Southern Colorado with the Pentax 67 medium format (beast of a) camera.
Mamiya 645e in the Field at Music Pass Colorado
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 6 lety
Mamiya 645e in the Field at Music Pass Colorado
Lens review: Voigtlander Color Skopar 21mm f4
zhlédnutí 17KPřed 6 lety
Lens review: Voigtlander Color Skopar 21mm f4
Lens to lens: Nikon 50mm f1.4D vs. the f1.8 E
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 7 lety
Lens to lens: Nikon 50mm f1.4D vs. the f1.8 E
Electronic vs. Mechanical Shutters The Nikon FM2 and F3
zhlédnutí 21KPřed 7 lety
Electronic vs. Mechanical Shutters The Nikon FM2 and F3
Printing Digital Black and White on True Black and White Paper
zhlédnutí 3,6KPřed 7 lety
Printing Digital Black and White on True Black and White Paper
Intro to double exposure film photography: Nikon FM2 and Hasselbald 500
zhlédnutí 15KPřed 7 lety
Intro to double exposure film photography: Nikon FM2 and Hasselbald 500
Non-TTL flash: How to use manual flash
zhlédnutí 108KPřed 7 lety
Non-TTL flash: How to use manual flash
Scanning your film: the need for a film scanner
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 7 lety
Scanning your film: the need for a film scanner
Just loaded mine, I don't have the B version, if you're following this please note that when the red window is open, depending on age, it can be incredibly hard to see the numbers so you have to be very careful. Mine had to sets of sun icons and then the numbers. I didn't clock the first couple, so wasted two frames. So be careful.
Interesting. I have this flash meter too, but AFAIKS it doesn't really work for studio flash. When you use the flash setting the recommended aperture depends on the shutter speed which is obviously nonsense in a studio. Changing the shutter speed from 1/25 to 1/125 dowsn't alter the exposure in a studio situation
I have the F8 - Its expensive but there are filters & filter sets available for the widelux. The set includes a neutral density 2 stop as well as closeup filters and color (B&W) filters. If you haven't figured out a good case for it - Use the FH 4x5 film holder pouch, about $20 US (Amazon, E-bay, B&H ).
"Great." What about resolution, lines/millimeter? What about contrast? What about edge sharpness? Nothing here except "great."
I bought one of these in 96, used it till early 2003 when I went Digital. I gave it away in 2010.
The M4 ain't too shabby either.
Better with IR filter for that film
thanks for sharing
1 wabt. to. buy. one. where. from. thamks.
where. i buy. one. thank.
The shot of the bridge and roads looks good on my computer, I can't fathom how good it must look in person. Can I get a copy?
BRAVO, and Lovely, as too have much fond Respect for German Craftsmanship that I too have a few models of the SLR Line, as I have my share of Pentacon's F, and the Praktina SLR with all Zeiss Jena Lenses, and acquired a Wirgin Edxia SLR 35mm camera as I clean it, and fixed the shutter stickiness. What you have is Cherish Models, and Go Out and shoot Film. 😀😀📸📸
This camera apparently has two iso settings. 80 and 400. Tiger 200 is not the ideal film for this camera because it will underexpose by a stop. Probably why the colors need work in post. Of current available films, I imagine orca 100 would give the best results.
I own one and I would not shoot 200 in it exactly for the reason you stated - only 100 or 400. Right now I am shooting some Fukkatsu 400 that expired in 2018.
Ilfotec HC, it’s long life and fine grain, well controllable contrast as well. Also can be used standard developing as well.
I have a very strange autofocus problem on my F90x. It will not autofocus if I hold it in the regular horizontal way. If I turn it upside down it will autofocus great everytime. Also if I hold it normal (horiz.)then begin rotating it around the axis of the lens, it will autofocus at the same point or angle of rotation every time. The point where it starts AF is always about 20-30 deg. from being fully vertical. It will always AF if it is upside down. I have cleaned the lens connections and tried other lenses and still have the same problem. please help
any new advice on film brand and ASA ??? Thanks.
Great video thank you!
I studied old cameras as a hobby for years, so I was surprised to discover this camera (actually several versions) recently for the first time. I looked for it on eBay to see if I could buy one cheaply just to play with and study. Well, not so much! For a confirmed working unit, you are looking at more than $250. There seem to be a number slyly listed, so they are probably damaged or not functional in some way, but still posted around $150-180. Surprisingly, there seem to be a number of small accessories made for the camera which are fairly available, including a modest telephoto lens. Not mentioned here, but exploded in some length elsewhere, is that there is no film pressure plate to flatten the film during exposure. This appears to be built-in a permanent lack of image sharpness, which should not otherwise be a problem with the licensed Tessar lens made by Bausch & Lomb, one of the major lens makers in the US when the camera was made.
Funny story, I actually just bought the camera off the guy who explains there being no backing pressure plate for $170. Small world.
The manual for this camera is available on the butkus site. It explains several things that are not intuitive about the operation of this camera.
Very nice reaview. Watching this video 7 years after and the $20 camera is now typically a $140 camera because of the waist-level finder and social media. The camera is beautiful though.
here in germany you can find them for 10-50 bucks
In 2023, the DDX has lost a lot of its appeal due to the very high cost.
I think you were wrong and they are fairly easy to fix, you seem to know what your talking about and I hope that you didn’t just break it up, as I’ve seen this model in conditions that you would consider this one as mint. In fact there is a guy who is on you tube who spent 30 mins as these are very easy! But
The Metz is a very simple design very similar to my Vivitar 225 flash which is a little taller but still compact. Also has both hot shoe and PC sync. However it's strictly a direct flash. I also have a professional Sunpak 522 which comes with a bracket. It's PC sync only but you can use a hot shoe adapter that has a PC sync port. It is a little heavy but I don't mind using it.
Thank you for this!
Glad it was helpful!
Anyone know how much it would be to sell one?
The 'shortfalls' of this camera as you call them are features. It's just not meant for taking close focus photographs so lacking close focus is not a shortfall :-) I've been using it for the past 4 years. I would advise any one trying to figure it out to figure out what this camera does best compared to traditional 35mm full frame cameras. More importantly, have fun in figuring it out! I've tried the F8, F7 and the F6 both black and silver. Ironically a black F6B has been my best performer. I don't know why, but it might have to do with its previous owner being a camera store employee....
I suggest trying to find some expired film . I think some of the older stuff was better quality. I’ve had good results, considering the limitations of the film and the tiny negative. I most recently got some pleasing results with Agfa XRG 200 and some Konica film sourced from “NARC expired film” on eBay . That was shot with a Minolta 110 zoom mk2 though which allows me to easily overexpose the film to compensate for the age
according to the owner manual, you set No. 1 in the red window, THEN set the film counter in the camera to a point between S and 9, and close the red window and advance the film until it stops at 9. From then on you do NOT use the red window and the film should advance and stop automatically. The camera gives 10 shots per roll, it would seem, and counts down, not up, with the 10th shot being set on S. Haven't actually shot mine yet.
do you know how to load the film? there is a spindle in mine but it looks odd
There was a time when most people used this technique. It seems to have gotten lost as folks started learning from half-assed YT videos on processing B&W film. Do this and lose the foolish squeegees, and you are home free. If you are psychologically incapable of not wiping down the film, wet two fingers in your final Photoflo solution and wipe the film through two wet fingers, once only.
Thank you so much for making a video showing the photo taking process. There are a few others on here describing it and of course the manuals online but I was hoping someone would do a step by step. I totally get in now!
FE2 ganggg
I just get this len 21mm F4 LTM for my Z6ii, It is very wonderful. I love it for street photography. I need to close my subject.
A video about camera types which is constantly out of focus lmao
SKX007 ? Mine is 013 ;)
which one has strong mirror shock? Pentax 67 or Pentacon Six TL?
I’ve had my f3 since 1982, still shoot with it and it’s stock lens. Why fix it when it an’t broken! I have been thinking about picking up a top view mirror for it, do you still have yours and do you like it. My eyes aren’t the same anymore and was thinking this could be an easier way to make sure image is in focus.
It's worth noting that Yashica ran two series of TLRs - knob wind and the more advanced crank wind (a la Rollieflex). The D represents the top of the knob wind line and has several advantages. The post-1970 models have a f2.8 viewing lens, giving a bright viewfinder. The knob wind cameras are also lighter than the crank winds. The knob winds also have the accessory shoe, which is convenient for attaching a shoe-mount meter, still available new. The crank wind cameras do not have a space for the shoe and do not have double exposure capability, but do have built-in meters, not particularly good. If you always advance the film after shooting you will avoid accidental double exposures. Having to cock the shutter before shooting means you can leave the shutter speed at a high setting and not worry about straining the shutter spring because the spring isn't activated until you cock the shutter. The D is may favorite Yashica TLR, and is not the most expensive.
you mean hp5 :)
i shoot a lot with my FE2, but the prices of films are just getting a lot more expensive, and i hate shooting digital (you just cant beat the tactile feeling of a mechanical camera) just got this one today, and hopefully it i can make the most out of it and keep doing my hobby !
I got the Pen F for the same reason and never went back. Shooting full 35mm feels so wasteful now. Plus the form factor is unbeatable imo. Have fun with your FE2!
What is the white dot on top of the camera? On the prism.
Pure sex
This video shows examples of photos taken with the original camera. "TLR Lubitel 2 cameras, Lubitel 166U examples of black and white photos" Watch and be amazed!
Sorry, I didn't mean to moan like that. 😅
i just picked one up from japan last week!!! i love mine! expecting a 35mm lens also from Japan next week.
Hey man, i have an pentax 110 but i keep getting blank rolls. Please help me. I donk know whats going on, i replaced the batteries and cleaned everything but it still doesn't work....;(
It might be dead… One way to check would be to cover the lens and see if the shutter speed is long.
You have the SE version 🔥🔥🔥. Nice
Nice video and images. I'm testing a Widelux F6 and a Widelux F6B now to evaluate if i'm going to keep one of them. I'm leaning towards the F6 because despite being an older model, it is barely used and the silver finish looks really nice. It's good to see these kind of long term reviews because they give more insights for my decision. Thanks!
My sensor still works but I’m having trouble understanding when I should be using the green half or the black half of the wheel to gauge my shooting settings. If you have any insight that would be helpful
Mine never worked, and the camera has been sold. However one scale is likely when the shade over the meter is up and one when it is down.
@@eagle112800 thank you for your reply!
Cool