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I would verify you are getting gas to the system. You should be able to smell it. If you are getting gas, then I would check the ignition system. Is it clicking? Can you see a spark? Can you manually ignite it with a long lighter or match? The 1k Diedrich uses a lot of hardware you can buy at the hardware store. I imagine if the piezo igniter on your unit is bad, you can remove it and take it to the local hardware store to find a replacement. If you are getting gas and have a good spark, then you may need to clean the jets inside the roaster. Also, ensure you are using the right gas. It could be (I'm not sure) that the jets/orifaces are designed for a specific type of gas, such as natural gas vs LPG. It could also be a problem of gas pressure. My unit used natural gas and it was tied in very close to the main feed to the house, i.e., there was only a few feet of gas pipe from the roaster to where the house was fed. So it wasn't 'downstream' of any other gas appliance that could rob it of gas pressure.'

That made me think of another suggestion; I know that the machine is built with standard, easy-to-obtain hardware because Deidrich support at the time told me. I called them to get some replacement screws I stripped and they said it would be cheaper to get them at the hardware store. So you might call support and ask them for help. Do let me know what you find! I'm curious.

@@MichaelCWright I can't see any spark. Is there another indicator rather than smell? Should it show on the burner manometer too? I followed the start up procedure (Drum on - Blower on - Gas On - While the toggle is on pilot - Air blue light on - should I press anything else to ignite or does it ignite on its own?)

Will found out! thanks mate@@MichaelCWright

To keep the ET and BT curves smooth you should avoid large changes to air and/or heat. If you are getting spikes in those two curves, look to the changes you made just before those spikes. Take note of how much of a change you made. For example, maybe you changed the air from 3 to 5. Next time you roast, make the change from 3 to 4 and see what effect the change has on your curve. You can also anticipate changes in the curves based on previous roasts of the same coffee. For example, I know that an El Salvador Bourbon I'm currently roasting has a significant and predictable drop in RoR about a minute before color change and the resulting BT curve 'levels off' a bit. Knowing it's coming, I can add a little heat beforehand to counter that drop a bit. Lastly, if the spikes are very spikey, meaning relatively tall and skinny, they could be electrical artifact caused by improper grounding of your thermocouples or a loose connection in one, or something like that.

Fermenting the coffee beans helps to break down the sticky mucilage that surrounds the coffee seed. Microbes feed on the mucilage and fluidize it so it can be easily washed off mechanically.

@@MichaelCWright interesting. Is there any nutritional changes that happens also like maybe changes to polyphenols or the xanthine content with fermentation?

@@DOGOID that's an interesting question and I don't know the answer. I would imagine fermentation could impact nutritional aspects of the coffee...especially making things more bio-available, similar to how microbes help us with things like fructans. I did a quick search and found this article online regarding coffee and tea fermentation and polyphenols: www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S092666902101030X

Just wild yeast. The trick is that by using yeast that has built-up over the previous day, you can "jump-start" today's fermentation. I can possibly also help make the flavor profile derived from the fermentation more consistent day-over-day. It cut the soak time pretty good in my experiment: oilslickcoffee.com/processing/wet-processing-using-starter-cultures/

Thank you for the kind words. Can you send me Mr. Armiyadi's contact information? My email is Michael (at) OilSlickCoffee.com. I'll see if we can arrange an interview!

There are many ways to skin a cat. Automation isn't necessarily everyone's idea of what makes a good, artisanal coffee. I don't feel guilty using alarms and no one can taste if my fan was turned on by me or auto-magically by Artisan. If one wants to be a purist and control every aspect of their roast, then great. I don't see them as any less of a coffee roaster. I have a more lengthy article on roast automation here: oilslickcoffee.com/roasting/roaster-automation-one-view/

Carl Staub. Sweet Maria's has a good article written by Staub about what he calls the Best Reaction Ratio. Find it here: library.sweetmarias.com/basic-chemical-reactions-occurring-in-the-roasting-process/

I enjoyed reading the book and also meeting with Ted. He truly cares about smallholder farmers and that comes through in his work.

I do use alarms to control the roaster, but not solely. I still manually control most of the roast, but use alarms for things such as dropping the heat for the first 30 seconds of the roast then returning it to something like 90%. When I change the sliders in Artisan, it sends a command from my laptop to the roaster to change the power setting. Artisan sends the commands to a HotTop Roaster Interface (HTRI) that I have installed in the HotTop (see my blog post linked below for details). oilslickcoffee.com/roasting/hottop/how-to-install-hottop-htri-control-board/ The HotTop KN-8828B-2K+ has the same functionality built-in, without the need for a device such as the HTRI.

In Artisan, under Config > Device > ET/BT tab, at the top of that window is a selection box for "meter." In that drop down, Center 301 is an option to select for a meter. Is that what you are looking for? Or are you having a problem with reading temps below 100° C?

@@MichaelCWright Thanks for reply. So yes i have that marked as well as my correct port. I am having problem with artisan not reading from the device as when i click "on or start." there is message in top of graph stating "1 byte received but 8 needed."

@@MichaelCWright Hi again Michael. I figured pretty much all of it, now the only problem yet to figure is how to set it up to read temperatures below 100 degrees Celsius. You seem to know it? Thank You

@@toncilisica9279 I have no experience using Artisan with temps below 0°. Some places I would check are the minimum temp value under Config > Axes. I believe this will define the "floor" of what is graphed. But lower temps may be recorded accurately nonetheless. You can check if the temps are being accurately recorded as data by looking in Roast > Properties > Data (tab). This might help you isolate the problem to a graphing issue in Artisan, which could possibly (hopefully) be fixed in the Config > Axes menu. Do share what you find if you get it fixed!

@@MichaelCWright ​ appreciate it for sticking with me in this Michael. update.. Axis is showing minus temperatures but the graph is not reading it. The curve just disappears, when i go to properties data BT and ET shows minus 1.. meaning that not even in data it shows correct temperature. Error that shows up is that "temperature could not convert string to float". Which im afraid is in the code of program, meaning it cant be fixed. Do you maybe know and good program to recommend for those minus temperature readings? Thanks Michael

Thanks. In that video I'm using a signal stick from signalstuff.com/ It's my go-to antenna for the FT-3DR and great for mobile uses as it can be tied into a simple knot for stowing, while not retaining the shape afterwords (mostly). Over the years my first signal stick has developed a minor curve, but nothing major at all.

Awesome thanks. Ordered a Signal Stick!!! :-)

Thank you and I'm glad you found it useful!

Sorry for the late response. I assume you have your HotTop connected successfully. For others who may see this and have the same question, Artisan has the following documentation for connecting the HotTop to it: drive.google.com/file/d/0B4HTX5wS3NB2ZGxsTU4tbmtVUmM/edit?resourcekey=0-TEeQ6UboiVbLqV0mcXMVew

Hello there!

You've hit three of my favorite things there; coffee, fresh air, and chats around the campfire! The grinder is from Normcore. It's their V2 manual grinder. I've placed an Amazon link in the video description and here is a link to Normcore's website for more pictures and information (Amazon might not be very useful to you in Kazakhstan): www.normcorewares.com/products/normcore-manual-coffee-grinder-v2-38mm-contemporary-burr The grinder has stainless steel burrs and an aluminum housing (not plastic), which is why in the video the grinder itself got so cold sitting outside. Because it isn't plastic, it has a nice weight and feels sturdy and capable. I have certainly enjoyed using it. I bought it, so this isn't a paid promotion. 👍

It's what's called a "wild" fermentation, which means whatever microbes are available 'in the wild.' I don't have a lot of experience using commercial yeast in coffee fermentation. However, Lal Cafe offers some specifically for coffee processing and may be of interest to you. www.lalcafeyeast.com/

Xin lỗi vì sự phản ứng chậm chạp. Đó không phải là một câu hỏi dễ trả lời. Nó phụ thuộc vào điều kiện trang trại của bạn và mục tiêu của bạn như chất lượng cao, số lượng nhiều, v.v. Tôi có một người bạn sống gần Đà Lạt trồng rất nhiều catimor thành công: K'ho Coffee www.khocoffee .com/

Puede obtener el último y mejor HotTop de Sweet Maria's por $ 1,800: www.sweetmarias.com/roasting/drum-roasters/hottop.html

Stick with it! Even if only to learn better control over the machine. 👍

At that mill at the time of that video, they fermented for roughly 12 - 16 hours. They determined the wash-point by feeling the beans. If the beans feel gritty and not slimy and slick, then they would begin mechanical washing.

I would start by disabling "auto drop" to see if that is related to the problem. You can find the auto drop feature in config → events → config tab. Uncheck "auto drop" at the bottom of that screen and see if that changes the behavior.

@@MichaelCWright Thanks so much. I'll try it in the next couple of days.

Thank you for the kind words!

Hopefully it was useful!

Interesting. I will try that. I am currently working through 6kg of an Indonesian wet hullled coffee. I'm putting the roaster through its paces after rebuilding it and so I can do some compare/contrast roasts trying the "gas dip."

Thanks! I think it's fascinating too!

Thanks for the feedback!

I did not get the thermocouples from HotTop. I got them separately. I wrote up exactly how I installed them and where I bought them here: oilslickcoffee.com/hottop/how-to-install-hottop-et-bt-probes/ It's an older article but it should still be quite useful to you. As for termination points on the board; I'm not sure. It's easy enough to open the HotTop and take a look at the board. You can look for terminals that might be labeled "TC" that don't have anything connected to them. (do let me know what you find, I'm curious too!)

You are correct. I need the Arduino to control the roaster via Artisan and the newer model can interface directly with Artisan. Happy roasting! 👍

@@MichaelCWright thanks! I’m now trying to explore to what degree one can automate a roast with Artisan, so this video is super useful.

Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped