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Crankshaft was worn out at Cylinder # 6. Couldn't save the crankshaft.

The car was sold. We only inspected this vehicle for a customer who bought it.

Wow. That's very unfortunate. Your rear caliper s seized causing the fire? Did the fuel tank catch fire? And the transmission build was because of the clutch? Or a synchro inside the gear set?

@@CarInspected i put the fire out when i saw the smoke. Third gear was not hardened. Mazda has a tsb out on it. I traded it for a corolla after the brake incident

Good to know. Thanks for the response.

And here's me trading my 2015 GT for a new Turbo hatch with 283k miles with only regular maintenance and normal wear and tear repairs. The trans issue sounds like owner error. 🤷🏽‍♂️

If there is a TSB about it, then it can actually be a manufacturer issue. All to say, they generally are very reliable cars... Is yours a manual?

This car was inspected by our team a long time ago... I believe it was sold after the inspection

Yes we provide pre-purchase and pre-sale inspections of vehicles

Sorry, we don't ship to Albania. We only inspect those cars for buyers.

It was a rod bearing, cylinder #6, and the engine had to be replaced.

I dont recall the details exactly. But do you have ISTA software? If so, you should be able to get the wiring diagram for the HUD from there, and it would have all the wires and color codes for each wire. I'll look up my papers and see if I can locate the power supply wire color. Please note that the pre LCI and post LCI wiring is different for most systems (color codes can also be different). The car in this video is a 2010 535i XDrive LCI Canadian spec.

@@CarInspected Unfortunately I don't have BMW ISTA. I drive a 525i from 07/2005 with a N52 engine as the European version. I've really done everything I can. So far without success. But I'm going to partially assemble the car today and hide all the cables somehow until I've found plans or a solution myself. Thanks for your help anyway, unfortunately it doesn't help me much :(

@manuelgorbartschow the Canadian spec cars, and specifically, the 2010 model year (LCI) have the following set up, pins 5 and 6 (red&black, and red&blue) are power. And brown wires pins 11 and 12 are ground wires. Of course, I'm talking about the pins coming out of the HUD connector

@@CarInspected Thank you my dear!!!! 🫶🏼❤️ I have exactly this color combination here too. The two red/black and red/blue cables go into the fuse box, where the HUD has its own fuse. Is that right? I have to check what the pin assignment is. Where did you connect the black/yellow twisted CAN bus cable? If necessary, I would tap into another CAN bus line. I wrote to you on Instagram, I will give you an update tomorrow and send you pictures. Thank you so much for your help 🫶🏼

Run a compression test.... that would give you a good indication how's the internals condition of the engine... has the oil been changed the regularly? And has the car been maintained well? If so then those engines can last a long time if well taken care of

@@CarInspected oh yeah it’s been decently taken care of I’ve only had it for a month but my uncle had it for a while before me like I said new tires all new shocks brakes and belts and new oil and air filter and spark plugs not sure how it was maintained before me and my uncle thought and another question Is it good to let the Rpms get a bit high before shifting ? I used to shift a bit early but now I wait for it to rev a bit high usually I shift gears around 3500-4k rpms is that good ? Or is it better to shift early ?

@troyholland3436 if you're trying to extract as much power as possible from the engine then changing at high RPMs accomplishes that but it creates unnecessary load on the engine and the transmission and the clutch..... it is better to shift at lower RPMs for fuel efficiency and drivetrain longevity

@@CarInspected I got a question man is it normal on these cars for the clutch pedal to not have much pressure on mine it has a little pressure but not much but the car shifts good just kinda low on pressure on the pedal

Check for rust, and get the car checked before purchase. Also check the AC compressor clutch, it's known to fail often in the 2010

Old dirty oil can cause clogs in the oil distribution system which can lead to low oil pressure, however if the correct oil (for a specific engine) has been regularly replaced at the correct intervals (specified by the engine manufacturer) and the oil level is within spec, then it's very unlikely that the oil can get dirty enough to cause low oil pressure.

Your comment is really confusing. Don't understand. Are you saying that we didn't check for rust? Yes, it is easy to check if you have the specialized instruments designed to reveal Rusty panels (we have the tools and we use them), just because it's not shown int he video, doesn't mean it hasn't been done.

It would be better to top up the engine oil as soon as you can. Please note that in most cars, the minimum oil level on the dipstick means a loss of 1 or 2 liters of oil. So, in your case, the minimum level means that the engine lost about 1 liter of oil. With all of that said, if it was my car, I would not drive it, I would get a liter of oil from subaru and top up the engine oil before starting the engine again.

Yes, you're right... it was a worn-out bushing for the E-Clutch, but i dont think it shows in this video. But yes, either rebuild the transmission or just replace it with a low mileage one...

No, it actually came out through one of the rear doors, and if I recall correctly, I think it was the driver side rear.. you will have to bend it, but make sure you don't create any creases and be very careful when bending the headliner while taking it out and placing the new one in... you will also have to maneuver the front seats to their lowest position and I don't remember if it was tilted all the way forward or backward but anyway you will have to move the seats, so make sure you don't disconnect the battery (if your seats are electric)

Loooool.... you misunderstood... this engine (BMW N55) has a timing CHAIN, not a belt... but the serpentine belt (AKA accessory belt) slipped off the pulleys and was ingested into the engine through the crankshaft front seal... it then got shredded and then found its way into the oil sump mesh...

@@CarInspected i understood that is the accessory but how it can enter ?...

I just check and see sellers selling guard for that part to prevent the belt enter... how the belt can go their ?

It's a known problem with the N54 and the N55 (some say that the N52 has the same issue). The oil filter housing gasket leaks, dripping oil on the accessory belt. The accessory belt slips and gets wedged between the crank pulley and the crankshaft front seal (there is a few millimeters clearance between crank pulley and the front of the engine where the crank pulley rotates), the accessory belt gets chewed up and then penetrates the front crankshaft seal (behind the crank pulley), it then enters the crank case and gets shredded by the timing chain and sprockets.. then it tries to get into the oil system via oil sump...

@@CarInspected thank you :)

The smaller Autel is good enough to read codes. The tablet has a lot more features that allow for diagnostics and modifications.

1. Agree 2. It's probably right. 3. Oil changes will be done at 3000 miles. 4. Oil pressure problem completely went away. It was coming on ONLY when the engine is fully warmed up, and the engine was shut down immediately to preserve the internals.

I used bmw software to write the VIN onto the replacement transmission and it worked without issues.

Yes, Sure did!!

more a healthy car.

What's with it?

That's true!!

If the cluster doesn't display a temperature gauge, then try using the OBDII scanner or brand specific scanner to read the coolant temperature.

They all work well, but most users seem to make a decision based on how easy it is to install and remove the lock. If it's complicated, then fewer people would use them.

@@CarInspected ho!! Too bad 😪

Do you mean Gary Ferraro that sinan mentioned in the video?

Try the online bmw forums, there should be some guides showing how to download and install ISTA+ and ISTA-P. You can then put your VIN in that program and access all wiring diagrams for your specific car.

@@CarInspected perfect, thanks! I have the ista package on my PC but never got to installing it completely since it's not that straight forward

It's true, it's not a straightforward installation, but it's very handy for diagrams and diagnostics

The ABS unit has to have the correct part number (all wheel drive has a different part number from rear wheel drive), FOR XDrive, it has to say (DXC E6x-4WD ACC) on the part number sticker.

It was test driven off camera

We do

@@CarInspected OK. Would like to see it next time on video, if possible.

@grazianolaudisio3644 we have plenty of inspections showing undercarriage videos on our Channel

@@CarInspected Thanks 👍🏻

Used a ratchet to spin the crankshaft using the crankshaft bolt.