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Apparently the listing was updated. Here is the current sharpener listing, and price: amzn.to/4eZcH90

The HotCoat Powder Coat we used was this: amzn.to/4cxPo4t I will tell you this is tricky to get right. I felt the video made this look rather easy. It does take many layers to make this look right, so start thin and work your way to the top, let it cool between layers. You should avoid the issues we had when doing this. LOL I did not wind up using epoxy on this one. However since it is a non-cut surface it may not be a bad idea for filling in small holes that can form during the heating process. On it's own it is very stable and hard. That being said it is powder paint just like the stuff that is on the bottom of your chassie, so it is rather durable. However it does have a gloss, so I would assume it would scratch over time, or at least show scratches. I don't think you would be able to cut through it easily with a knife however. I have NOT tested that theory just to be clear. LOL The feet are from this kit(realy nice kit by the way, just remember to predrill first LOL): amzn.to/3WaZ27t I hope this helps! Feel free to let me or us know if you have other questions on the process. 😀

The press will not open. I would do 3 things. Unplug it for a minute, and plug it back in see if that helps. Try pushing down on the dial several times(may have gotten something in there like dust as an example), and also try the control button on the press itself at the front(remember the buttons only work if the unit is plugged in and shows signs of power). If none of that works I would contact Vevor technical support. Here is a link: www.vevor.com/pages/contact-us. It locks in place when it closes so they would need to provide a more manual way to get that open. I have not experienced that issue so I can't advise further. However if you do have to contact them, drop us a comment and let us know what you found out.

I found that it works well with standard and work glasses. Little to no fog. Fit is a little more comfortable than RZ for glasses. However, it will raise your glasses just like any other mask so keep that in mind. As far as filters go, the ones they offer are rather cost effective so I don't think you would need a 3rd party filter replacement. However, it does seem RZ mask filters fit okish in there. I did try that out of curiosity. That may be a good sign if you find generics of those. However, I would not recommend that, as the fit was not the best.

Thank you! 😀

Thank you, we appreciate it and the feedback. :)

Great question! The fence on the Wen 3962 can lift all the way to approximately 6 and 1/8 inches. So theoretically, you could pass a board through that's about 6 and 1/16th inches thick. I've tried it myself, and while it's a very snug fit, it's possible. It's like they say camera adds 10 pounds, maybe wood gains a little bulk in front of the camera too! 😄

After having it for a few years now, I can't complain. It works well for my needs. I normally need it for resawing wood, and it does a fine job at that. Have used it for cutting curves, and that also went well, too. I just make sure the bandsaw is in good alignment like you should with any bandsaw, and it's off to the races! LOL I hope this helps you a bit on your choice. If you do decide on this one, if I could ask you a favor and use our Amazon link, it helps the channel at no cost to you. We all appreciate your support. :)

@@WoodWorkTherapy Ordered it last night and I did use your link.

@@JoeOsChannel Awsome! I am glad to hear it, and thank you for the help on that. :) Let us know if you have any questions. :)

I've been curious about that too! Surprisingly, I've had a really positive experience with the Vevor Table Saw Blade Sharpener. Honestly, zero complaints kind of happy with it. As for the water-based option, I'm not convinced it would make a significant difference. Since the blade only touches the grinder briefly, it's not like it's grinding the carbide extensively. Maybe it would provide a slightly finer result, but I doubt it would truly impact the blade's performance. Anyway, I'm no pro sharpener, just sharing my experience! 😄

Odd. Not sure why there would be different specs for the same unit. the Amazon listing still shows the 2800 rpm. And i checked the model number on Vevor's company site and it also states 2800 RPM. That being said, they do have other very similar sharpeners on the site. So maybe you clicked on one of those?

Sure is! We have the file downloadable at our store. And has special pricing at the moment. This is a well refined version of the one used in the video. Includes the Lightburn file and AI file. Store link: woodworktherapy.com/product/craft-heartfelt-memories-with-our-happy-mothers-day-toddler-3d-sign-template/

Thank you! :)

In response to your query, our spraying method was carefully executed to avoid any risk to nearby properties. We made sure that no houses or cars were within the reach of overspray. Additionally, any overspray that did occur settled harmlessly in the dry desert environment, resembling dust. Our neighbors safety was our top priority, and we were vigilant to prevent any potential issues. If there was even a slight chance of overspray reaching neighboring properties, we would have taken extra precautions. Therefore, there's no need to worry about legal complications or property damage. We tailored our safety measures to suit our specific environment. It's important to always assess risks and take appropriate precautions, such as using coverings. It's worth noting that we're not a professional painting company and have no intention of becoming one. This video is aimed at DIY enthusiasts looking to improve their painting skills, rather than as a definitive guide for professionals.

Considering the expenses involved in materials, labor, and markup, a walnut board typically costs between $60 to $80 USD. However, it's worth noting that most boards are 4/4, so you'll need to rip them down to 1/4 for the sides, and then to 1/8 for the top and bottoms. To streamline the process and potentially reduce labor costs, it might be beneficial to batch produce them. Ripping one board to create multiple pieces is more efficient than doing it individually each time. By adopting this approach, the cost could be lowered to around $40 to $50 due to reduced labor. While I don't personally sell these, I believe this pricing reflects their value as lasting keepsakes that gain character over time. Hopefully, this insight is helpful to you.😀

Thank you for your kind words! I strive to provide honest and unbiased reviews.

Thank you for watching and I'm happy to hear that my video prevented any mishaps!

Thank you for sharing this brilliant idea for improving the adjustment process!

That was why we wanted it to! Even sharpening occasionally, it's still worth it, because it is a long haul tool. Your not going to use it necessarily a lot as a hobbyist, but your going to have it for years to come, and that will save money there. And if your on the pro side, it will pay for itself very fast! :)

Not fully understand the question you are asking. During the video, we did use the stop so we could only go so far on the grid. I know that it is hard to see in the video due to the angle but you can see the arm of the stop on the opposite side of the grinding wheel from the camera angle. Ultimately you can put the stop at any tooth that will stop the blade in a position that kisses the wheel realistically. 9:21

Thanks for your inquiry! We actually slowed down on our projects recently, which means our blade hasn't been used as frequently as usual. Despite this, it's still in pretty good shape and quite sharp. We tend to keep the FTG blade on most of the time since many of our filming projects require grooves and rabbits, which it handles well. Surprisingly, it has exceeded our expectations in terms of longevity and performance. It's due for a cleaning soon, but even then, it remains very sharp.

Depends on the size of button that you are wanting to make. For small buttons this thing is a champ. Realy well built, and really durable. But it is for small buttons only. I belive you might be able to get other cups for other sizes however. I have not tried that so I can't say if that is true for sure.

I linked it to the optical port located at the back of my TV. Recording a video showcasing the dark details of the optical port might not capture much interest from viewers, considering the simplicity of the setup-most TVs typically have only one optical port. It's quite evident and straightforward, so I'm unsure why one would be curious to witness this process, especially since the optical port is likely situated in a similar position on the back of their own TV.

According to Google Curency, in Indian Rupee it comes out as 14183.13 Rs.

When it comes to automotive, pool paint, etc., the VEVOR Stand Airless Paint Sprayer may not be the best choice. It's better suited for painting houses, sheds, interior walls, and possibly large furniture. However, for furniture, I'd recommend using an HVLP sprayer with a reliable air compressor designed for HVLP applications. It's a much more user-friendly option. Some suggestions: HVLP sprayer: amzn.to/3P6jsdR (similar to what we use, possibly a little better) The compressor we use and it works fine: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-Gal-200-PSI-Oil-Free-Portable-Vertical-Electric-Air-Compressor-C202H/312074157 We hope this helps you out! :)

Ours has been very reliable, so we haven't needed to do any maintenence to fix thoese issues. Might be as simple as a loose connector inside the machine. The heating coils in presses get very hot, so there is always a chance the coil connector came loose from heating and cooling. Just a theroy on where you might look for the issue. I am assuming that the press is turning on otherwise?

Mine just stopped heating up and I’ve only had It for TWO WEEKS. Was working fine, then just stopped.

@@757JokerCrazee2.0 We're sorry to hear that. We were able to get this info from Vevors website: www.vevor.com/pages/contact-us Phone Service 855-385-1880 Mon to Fri 8AM-5PM PST, Sat to Sun 8AM-3PM PST We hope this helps you out. 😀

Ah, now you said it that makes sense. LOL Tells you how much metal working stuff i do. LOL Thank you for that. :)

Thank you for sharing your feedback. We acknowledge your points, and upon reflection, we realize that some details, such as the materials used in the machine, might not have been clearly conveyed through visuals alone. We understand that the angles, particularly during the blade grinding process, may have been challenging to perceive due to the slight angle employed. Upon revisiting this video, recorded almost 1.5 years ago, your insights now make perfect sense to us. We appreciate your suggestions and valuable tips. As we plan to revisit and reevaluate this content in the near future, we commit to incorporating your feedback, along with additional insights and lessons we've gained over the past years. Thank you for helping us improve our content.

Great advice! I appreciate the insights, especially regarding the EV 2-wheel aspect. As for the Vevor car jack socket, it does seem quite durable based on my experience. The chrome finish does raise questions about it being a true impact socket, given the more common black metal ones. However, considering it's designed for loosening bolts and the 80-110 pounds exerted, it should be safe for standard sockets in non-regular use. That being said, I share your hesitation about using these sockets for a full auto repair job. While they might handle it, I'm cautious based on the color alone; most impact sockets I've seen are black metal. Your input is valuable, and it's wise to consider the right tool for the job. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

It will probaly do better than what we used. In our case we used watered down chalk paints, which do clog the small nozel after a fair amount of use. So in esssence we showed the worst case scenario for use, and it worked like a champ. So a thiner paint like your talking about should have no issues. May just have to make sure you keep the pressure in check. We balanced the pressure durring each color change by using a piece of carboard we had from a box to see the patern and volume, before showing on video. This way you all did not have to watch us do that. Not that it took all that long. That is good advise however any time you are working with a air brush or HVLP gun. I hope this helps out! 😀

@@WoodWorkTherapy definitely helped! 🙂 Thank you!!! 🙏😊

@@eightyonebg Always glad to help! 😀

That might be possible if you were to disassemble the housing around the wheels. Never realy looked into that, as it is not a normal use of the mini griders. But without disassembly it would not be able to do that.

Well, it's quite a puzzle to imagine how that scenario could unfold! 😄 However, there's a key consideration when dealing with bandsaws - ensuring the proper balance of guide bearings. It's conceivable that an issue in this department might be the root cause. Regardless of your bandsaw proficiency, it's crucial to calibrate the guide bearings, maintaining a slight distance from the blade, typically a couple of hair widths away when not cutting. This preventive measure avoids rubbing, preventing premature bearing wear, and it holds true for all bandsaws. In addition, achieving the right tension in the blade is paramount to minimize drift. Setting the tension strong enough is essential for optimal performance. There are fantastic instructional videos available for the setup process, although I must confess, I'm not an expert at it myself! 😄 I haven't created a channel video on it yet, but there are some excellent resources out there to guide you through the process.

Thank you for that! :) I am not a professional saw sharpener, just learning like most. So we all appriciate that tip. If it would not be to much of a bother. Would you explain how to shapen the tips? (meathod/tools, etc ) We are looking to do a quality shapening and cleaning video in the near future, and the more I can absorb from folks like you the better.

@@WoodWorkTherapy im not sure you can do it with that machine unless you can alter in some way. but basically after you've done the faces you would put it on another machine specifically for machining the top the tooth. all you would do it set the machine to follow the clearance angle of the tip and also the same angle of the kerf which would generally be 10 to 15° on a regular blade, triple chip is whole other story. if you've soldered on new tooth you would also need to side grind it to give it some set and to the same width as the other teeth. its been 20 years since ive sharpened a saw but i think if i had the machinery in front of me it would be like riding a bike. its a black art now.

@@WoodWorkTherapy also i would suggest getting a catch tray made up for the machine to sit in to catch coolant and have it drain into a bucket to be filtered and pumped back to the grinding wheel, important to keep diamond wheels cool and to keep the tungsten cool as well. also keeps the dust down.

It varries. Most of these werr pree made and then I modified. So minutes to an hour or so. Nothing special. The burns were not that bad on these ones. Like 5 to 10 mins at the worst if I recall.

It was 4/4 wood cut into strips,(cut offs from another project) so about 1 inch by 1 inch approx. I simply took the thinest side brought the fence up to the blade with the wood in the way and set that as the size. Just so I could get a square witout messuring. But 1X1 inch would be about right. If you want to do pocket screws I would suggest 1x1.5 or 1.5X1.5 inches so you have enough room for the pocket hole jig to cut and not go off the side or be to narow to the side. I hope that helps! :)

I'm glad it helped out! :)

That is true of ATB blades. However not all blades have alternating teeth. Like the one in the video is a FTG blade(flat top grind). These are flat all sides persay. Here is a useful guide that goes into more depth on the topic. It can help with sharpening as well. (Note: I did not write this guide) www.toolboxtoday.com/the-types-of-saw-blade-teeth/

@@WoodWorkTherapyI have a number of ATB Diablo 80tooth blades and they all have the same about 3deg on the TCT face angle.

​@@fanatamon Interesting. I looked up the blade in the video amzn.to/48iVHXz And I do see the 20 deg angle but there is no mention of varience on the teath casing a 3 deg offset alternating. Keep in mind that FTG blades are not supposed to have a ATB like tooth. That is a difficiency in the performance of FTG is they are also flat faced making them slower to cut as they more or less wack the wood vs slice the fibers like an ATB blade wood. So I am not sure why yours has a 3 deg angle offset on the teeth. Seems a bit odd from everything Ihave read on it. Keep in mind the blade is working as good as new, and oddly is regularly used due to my personal lazyness to chaneg the blade. LOL Side note, when I setup the blade on the grider, I used the blade to create the offset. I had to reste for the glue rip blade, not shown. Do you have the blade model number of the FTG you are using? I might be interested in an FTG with a offset. Might make a cleaner cut...

@@WoodWorkTherapy Pretty sweet blades I use them for a range of stuff from decking to fix out etc do a nice cut. The blade in concern is a 305 80t Diablo blade it is an ATB grind but thats all I can find out, the kerf angle I got from matching the angle on the saw blade sharpener. I have a half dozen of these blades and it the blades do appear to have the same kerf angle. Be interested to know if you have any more sharpening info on these. I have sharpened them a heap and they still cut well.

Just checked it. It downloaded the PDF just fine. Let me provide the link on here maybe that will help: d3h1zj156zzd4j.cloudfront.net/pdf/LNT-sharpening-instructions-4-11-19.pdf

Great question! Achieving a smooth coat through practice makes powder coating safer than raw wood. Most finishes, as per the FDA's guidelines, are food-safe, and the safety of finishes often depends on degassing. Powder coating stands out as it doesn't require degassing. Colored metals used for serving are typically powder-coated, ensuring it doesn't flake or harbor bacteria. While not food-unsafe, it's essential to note that powder coating, like epoxy, shouldn't be used on surfaces for cutting foods. When a knife directly contacts the powder coat or epoxy, it may cause permanent damage, though not rendering it unsafe. For instance, using it on a cheese slicer is fine since the slicer doesn't touch the powder-coated area. Powder coating is considered food-safe up to 1000 Fahrenheit, as it turns into a liquid before reaching that temperature. 🙂

@@WoodWorkTherapyThanks. I make cheese boards and I wanted to step up my engravings with more detail.

@@arawtgabi Glad it helps! 🙂

Well, because it is. It is about 50% the size of a full sized version. Primarily because it is used for small objects like jewelry or other small metallic items. you could do small chisels as well on her or large ones as long as you can keep your side to side movement consistent. That all being said on average you only use a tiny amount of space for most shop objects anyway so the size is not going to inhibit most people from getting the job done just as efficiently as the would with a full size unit.

Thanks for your inquiry! Lower-end diodes, such as the 5.5-watt model we're using, come with a few drawbacks: 1. They tend to create an uneven surface, resembling a moon-like texture with pockmarks, especially in wider areas. This issue persists despite adjusting settings for speed and power, likely due to inconsistent heat distribution across the large surface. For instance, the letter 'P' may end up being about a quarter of an inch across each line section. 2. Many users of diode lasers lack proper ventilation, leading to a strong, unpleasant odor during operation. This smell is reportedly toxic, as informed by the manufacturer, even when using a good fan and keeping the garage door open. 3. Low-end diode lasers often struggle with simultaneously cutting and melting materials. 4. There's no concern about positional slipping if the burn-then-fill method is employed. 5. This method allows for quick pouring, heating, and sanding on large areas, a task that can be challenging even with a more efficient laser due to timing issues, especially on extensive surfaces. Ultimately, achieving perfection with any method requires practice. The key is to use what works best for you, as all effective methods have their merits. Laser melting might be a preferable option for some, especially with a more powerful machine and better off-gassing capability. However, the time investment required may not always justify the results. In our case, we've opted for laser melting, and it seems to work well with minimal hassle. 😃 I hope this provides a comprehensive answer, albeit a bit lengthy. LOL

Hmm... I feel his face is a bit puffier. More round you might say. Hmm. LOL

@@WoodWorkTherapy yea. He'd have to hit the gym to look as good as you

Great looking project!

ROFL

It really was. Doing another one though this time it will be a wood inlay. Going to try to get that one receded this weekend coming up. ‘tis the season. LOL

We are glad it was helpful! Please let us know if you have any questions. And keep your eye out for more content on this coming very soon! 🙂