Video

Gern geschehen!

Thanks! Well, the stick and the angle adapter are both from Amazon. Nothing special.

Since the FCX18 is from FMS I would guess that the used protocol is from FlySky and most probably the ANT protocol. If so, you can't bind to the MT12. ANT is not supported. But, maybe you are lucky and it is the AFHDS2A protocol. This is supported.

@@arminrc I contacted fms and they said it was AFHDS 2a but I have not been able to get it to bind, I have tried all variants (ppm,pwm,ibus,sbus etc) but i dont really know which one it is. I will try it again today and if i get it to work i will report how i did. <3

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So schauts aus!

As far as I remember that was not a problem. There were light buckets in the kit. Easy to install.

@@arminrc thanks I had no idea mine is in the backlog and I'm about to start as soon my my motor arrives 🤘

Put the SD card into a card reader and copy the script into the right folder. Thats it.

What do you mean with "everything"? What have you tested? If you really have tried "everything" than I can obviously not help you.

Yes, it has. I do not know if it comes from the portal gears or from another part in the drivetrain, but it is definitely there.

​@@arminrc Hey. If you're interested or like to publish in a video: play comes mainly from the portal assembly. My Evo Pro Utah has minimal play in the metal-geared 2spd gearbox. I exchanged driveshafts to injora metal ones for SCX24 that where such a tight fit that there is no play at all in them. Portal axles are a different beast, plays sum up: some in pinion-to-crown gears, some in crown-to-outputshafts, almost on tooth in outputshaft-to-pin-to-portalgear, half-a-tooth in portal gears (standard ratio), load of play in lower portalgear-to-pin-to-axleshaft and finally too, in axleshaft-to-pin-to-wheelhub.... :( all in all it results in 3.5cm of wheeltravel with the large evo pro tires (72mm). I guess ~2,5-3cm with the 60mm tires. This is really annoying on downhilling, as it gets very notchy also over tops of hills, crawler rollstowards decend as drivetrain is unloading... A real pity as the slow crawl capabilities of the Furitek brushless drive are a pure dream as well as the rest of the small car....! Unfortunatly to my knowledge no better portal gears as the main problem exist on the aftermarket...

Thanks for the great info!

You dont flash the Multi-Module firmware from the bootloader. Just start the radio normally, goto to SYS and there to SD card and open the folder FIRMWARE. Now select the firmware file and "execute" it.

Thanks! Glad you like it!

The ELRS version can bind to ELRS receivers. You can add an external 4-in-1 modul to the MT12. Then you have both.

@@arminrc ahhhhh got it, thx

Freut mich, wenn es geklappt hat. 😉

Gern geschehen! Vielen Dank für den Kommentar!

Vielen Dank für den Kommentar! Bzgl. des Problems mit der Reichweite kann ich dir aber wohl nicht weiterhelfen. Ich verwende meist Radiolink Empfänger (R6F) und hier habe ich eigentlich keine Probleme. Jedoch habe ich einem Minicrawler einen RadioLink R4F installiert und hier habe ich im Prinzip das gleiche Problem wie du. Bei den Spektrum DSMR Empfängern habe ich keine Range-Tests durchgeführt, aber die sind in Kombination mit dem 4-in-1-Modul etwas "zickig".

@@arminrcOk danke dir 😊 Ich muss die Reichweite einfach mal testen. Vielleicht übertreibt auch nur die MT12 mit ihren Warnungen….

Thanks for the comment! I guess it depends whether you use the full throw of the pot (means, you wanna hit the endpoints) or not. If you wanna hit the endpoints when using S2 for rear steering (or any other function you may see fit) then, well, there is not much to do about it!. But if it is not necessary to use the full throw of the pot, then please take a look at the Weight setting (you can go beyond 100!) or - better - check out custom curves.

If it uses the same protocol, maybe yes. I haven't tested it so I can't say for sure.

Thank you for your comment and for watching the video! Yes, the MT12 is a monster when it comes to functions and features. You really see how amazing it is if you (have to) use another radio after using the MT12.

Vielen Dank für den Kommentar! Freut mich, wenn das Video hilfreich war.

Thank you!

The first question would be, can you bind the MT12 with the Rx in the TRX4? What Rx are you using? The next question is, how is the diff lock on the TRX4 implemented? Are the locks simply controlled via Servos which are on seperate channels on the Rx?

That's right, it is the same as with RadioLink Rx with integrated gyro. But since I do not use gyros and the X10F is the version without gyro I do not care.

Ah, cool! Thanks again for the info. After I red your comment on fb I checked the official documentation for the Traxxas TQ protocol on the multi-module.org website. And, well, there is all the info you need! 😉

Vielen Dank! Wenn es zu schnell geht, einfach in CZcams die Wiedergabegeschwindigkeit reduzieren 😉

If you have two or more models powered up at the same time you would control them all at the same time. On other Rx (e.g. Radiolink) you can use the Rx-ID to seperate the models, but not with Spektrum DSMR.

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Well, first of all, I am not here to find solutions for your problems. As far as I know I am not on your payroll. I am not using FlySky products anymore and that includes the FS-BS6. So I do not have the means to test it out anymore. But, with all that said, the FS-BS6 can control two channels: the first channel (steering) to correct in order to keep the car on a straight line and the second channel (throttle) to reduce throttle when cornering. So, if you use channel 3 for steering and channel 4 for throttle and move the corresponding mixes in the MT12 accordingly, then you should have a working Rx.

Thanks!

Yes, I think this would be the way! If you have a full backup (a complete copy of the SD card content incl. models, audio, etc.) then just copy the backup to the radio replacing everything that is there. Maybe it is best to clear/remove all the SD card content and then copy the backup over to the SD card. Then, after the content has been replaced, put the SD card back into the MT12, turn it with entering the bootloader (hold the two trim switches in the right position) and flash the "old" firmware. Of course you need that old firmware binary file (either by downloading it again or the backup already contains that file). Please be aware that there is no guarantee that an older firmware works with newer content. Therefore it will be best to remove/clear all the SD card content and replace it with the content from the backup. But why would you want to go back to an older firmware version?

I followed your video’s instructions for installing a new version of the firmware, I chose v2.8.0 and went to the edgetx GitHub link and opened, then scrolled down to version 2.8.0 and downloaded the zipped file. The new folder I just created, now contained all the .bin files. I copied the file for the Zorro file and dropped it in the Firmware folder below along with a copy of the 4-1 module. Next I copied the EN folder into the SOUND folder. My SD Card content Folders. BACKUP, EEPROM, FIRMWARE, LOGS, MODELS, RADIO, SCREENSHOTS, SCRIPTS, SOUNDS, UTILITIES. Then dis a Select All and dropped them in the <RM ZORRO SD> SD card then I installed the SD card in the Zorro. Time to turn On the BootLoader. I pushed in on both Trim Buttons and Powered Up the radio. The BootLoader Screen appeared and selected Write Firmware. The display not Showed the message, DIRECTORY IS MISSING! /FIRMWARE. The SD Card>FIRMWARE FOLDER, does appear in the Finder and when I open it, the 2 files show up, the zorro_xxx.bin file and the 4-1 module file. This my Zorro that I Bricked and had to use app STM32 Cube Programmer to get the Display with no SD Card . Any ideas about this problem, Missing Firmware Directory?🙏

To be I do not know, what happens here. I just took my SD card out of my Radiomaster TX16S and formatted it (FAT32). So the card was totally blank. Then I downloaded the SD card content for Version 2.8 and copied all the Folder from the zip archive to the SD card. After that I downloaded the two firmware files (EdgeTX Version 2.8 and Multi-Module version 1.3.4.0) and copied the two files to the FIRMWARE folder. Then the SD card back to the Radio. Powering up with the two trim switches pressed brought me to the bootloader. I selected the EdgeTX firmware file and installed. No problems at all. Please try another SD card. Sometimes they work fine on the PC but for some reasons the radio cannot read them properly. And: are you sure that the filename of the firmware is not too long? Please check it.

@@arminrc Well today I think I discovered why I got the Missing Firmware Directory message. I was watching a new video today from RCVideoReviews about the SD Card and size a such and that started me thinking. In another video on the SD card i thought i could get away using a 32Gb Card formatted Fat32, 1GB Partition and 4K Block size. So that’s what I’ve been trying to write my 2.8.0 Firmware contents to. I received a 512MB microSD card from Adafruit and then using Disk Utility on my Mac Erased and formatted it to Fat32. Then I copied yesterday’s Zorro v2.8.0 data to the 512MB card. The missing Firmware Directory error message went away using the 512 and I was successful writing the firmware using the BootLoader at PowerUp. Some of the firmware options are not Selectable like MPM writing and others shown on these Screenshots. Is there to write these options another way? The T16 colored display radios seem to let you install the mpm and such right from the radio. When I choose a Model the AETR doesn’t seem to work. When you Paces that Show moment when moving the stick it doesn’t agree yet before my major screwup every worked as expected. Also I can’t turn the Internal Module On as shown in one of the screenshots. 🙏 for all your help

Make sure use set the correct channel order (usually AETR) and the correct mode (my TX16S runs in Mode 2 which means throttle is on the left stick). The MPM firmware is not flashed from the bootloader but directly through the SD card menu. Since I do not have a Zorro and won't buy one I cannot help you on this.

Thanks man! Just download it, modify it, use it! The channel output of the script should be used to control a separate channel with different throttle curves. If you drive some logical switches with the value of the script (a~x with "a" being the script output and "x" a constant value [20, 40, 60, ...] to compare against) you have five logical switches that can then be used to de-/activate different entries in the mixes each with its own throttle curve applied. Just try it out.

Nun, tut mir leid, dass deine Anforderungen nicht umgesetzt wurden. Wie wird denn das Soundmodul angesteuert? Auf jeden Fall wünsche ich dir viel Erfolg bei der Umsetzung deines Setups!

@@arminrc Das soundmodul selber wird über einen extra Kanal in Kombination mit speziellen Gaskurven gesteuert. Diese laufen fast parallel zu dem Gaskanal, der die Drehzahl für den Elektromotor bestimmt. Über diese (Gas)kurven, die eigentlich eher Drehzahlkurven sind, kann man dann die vom Soundmodul simulierten Drehzahlen unabhängig vom Elektromotor gewünscht vorgeben. Die Umsetzung deines LUA Script ist schon sehr geil und genau das, was ich mir vorgestellt habe :) Also ein DICKES DANKE!!! Ich frage mich gerade nur, ob ich damit die jeweiligen Gaskurven aktivieren bzw. deaktivieren kann. Ich bin mit den Möglichkeiten der MT12 noch nicht sooo vertraut und wurschtel mich irgendwie durch. Ich werde aber mal schauen, wie weit ich mit meinem Projekt komme. Werde dann berichten :)

@sirtobi1144 Ah, danke für die Info! Ich denke, dass sollte zu einem guten Teil mit dem Script in seiner jetzigen Form schon machbar sein. Der zweite "Output"- Wert des scripts gibt den Gang an (1, 2, 3, ..). Wenn du dir logische Schalter definierst, welche diesen Wert abfragen (a~x, mit a = Script-Output und x = Gang [also 1, 2, ..]) dann könntest du über diese logischen Schalter in den Mixern die Gaskurven aktivieren.

Can you give me some more infos about this please? Why do you wanna use a script for that and what do you want to control with it? I mean, a Punch Control is essentially just a "Slow up".

@@arminrc I use a similar version of this where I’m using logical switches with the delay in the logical switches along with the slow up to do multiple stages of what you call “punch control” the logical switches activate multiple throttle curves. I am able to start at 50% power instantly, then I can control how fast it gets from 50% to 70% in for example .5 seconds. Then I can go from 70% to 80% in .3 seconds. Then go from 80% to 100% in .2 seconds. I set the slow up in the throttle curve and the delay in the logical switch to the same time in order to get a smooth throttle delivery. I use this for drag racing. They have a very similar feature on the Futaba 10px. The reason why I’m asking for you to write a logical script because changing the percentage of power within each stage, 50% throttle to let’s say 55% is very cumbersome. I have to go in and change the ending percentage of one curve and then change where the next curve starts at. Along with having to go into the logical switch and change the delay then go into the slow up and change it to match the delay is very inefficient. What I’m looking for is a script that would sync the end of one curve to the beginning of the next curve. For example, if I had a stage that goes from 60% to 70% throttle and I wanted to change it from 60% - 75% throttle the script will make it where the next stage automatically starts at 75% throttle. Also, the script would make it easy to control the logical switch delay and the curve slow up by sinking these two functions together into one simple control. Please let me know if you understand what I’m saying and if you would be able to make a video writing a script for this? There are a lot of people who use this radio for NPRC drag racing. They would all be interested in this script if you were able to write it.

To be honest I do not see why you use a delay in the logical switch for punch control. Maybe we talk about different things. For me, punch control is a slow up, a ramp up if you will of the throttle output to better control the power. A delay in the logical switch is a simple delay, means the actual switch action is delayed. After that delay the slow up gets active and the throttle output rises with the speed set in the slow up parameter. So the only thing you get from a delay in the logical switch is that the start of the throttle rise up is delayed. But I do not have my MT12 with me currently so I can't check it in detail. Possibly I am wrong.

The radio was never connected to the computer! All the necessary files where downloaded and then copied to the SD card and the update where performed from there. The EdgeTX firmware you update through the bootloader. To enter that, you have to hold the trim switches as shown in the video. The update of the multi module firmware is simply done from the SYS > SD Card menu on the MT12. Just navigate to the folder, select the file and initiate the update.

@@arminrc So if you remove the SD card from the radio and connect the SD card directly to the computer does that prevent you from accidentally deleting the Memory device (Volume) Internal to the radio that contains the edgetx OS? This seems like Safer way to connect the SD card. Because when I leave the SD card in the radio and connect the radio to the computer with a USB cable and select Storage mode. I see 2 Devices (or Volumes) on the Finder window, RM ZORRO and RM ZORRO SD. Does that sound correct to you? I’m try to understand how the memory is arranged. 🙏

No, it does not prevent you from deleting content from the SD card. If you insert the SD card into the card reader on your computer then you have full access to the SD card. You can copy, delete, rename, or whatever. Best strategy would be to insert the SD card and make a full backup. Then, if anything goes wrong, just copy the backup over to the SD card and start all over again.

Nein, normalerweise nicht!

Vielen Dank für den Kommentar und die Anregung! Sieht interessant aus, das schau ich mir gerne mal an😉 Was mich interessieren würde: wie wirken sich die G1 bis G5 aus? Sollen damit bestimmte Prozentwerte auf der positiven Seite des Kanals angefahren werden (also z.B. 20% = G1 | 40% = G2 | 60% = G3 | 80% = G4 | 100% = G5).

Bist du dir wirklich sicher, dass du "R" aus jedem Gang heraus erreichen möchtest? Nur so eine Frage, umsetzen kann man es, denke ich.

@@arminrc Ganz genau so hab ich es mir jetzt erstmal mit deinem Script Beispiel eingerichtet. (Ohne die Sonderwünsche) Ich habe es jetzt so umgeschrieben, dass ich auch oberhalb der Startposition schalten kann. So hab ich L04 (N) als Startposition und kann von L04 (N) auf L03 (R) und von L05-L09 (G1-G5) schalten. Das ganze arbeitet dann in Verbindung mit nem Soundmodul ESS Dual+ (über einen separaten Kanal) und sorgt somit für ein recht realistisches Fahran. So kann man z.B. auch mal etwas schneller (im 5Gang) cruisen, ohne dass die Drehzahl vom Soundmodul unangenehm auf Anschlag fährt... :) Wenn man das ganze noch feintunen will, kann man sich auf die Schaltvorgänge noch kleine Gasstöße (Nur für das Soundmodul) programmieren. So hort man beim herunterschalten immer etwas Zwischengas :) Und die Illosion ist perfekt! Is bei mir für nen RWD Drifter. Da machen die unterschiedlichen Gaswerte abhängig vom Untergrund auch wirklich Sinn. So fährt man auf sehr rutschigem Untergrund vielleicht nur im 2. oder 3. Gang und oder auf Teppich im 4. oder 5. Mein Sonderwunsch: Mit einem langen Tastendruck direkt in den Rückwärtsgang schalten zu können, um nicht immer alle Gänge durchschalten zu müssen. Auch würde ich gerne verhindern, dass man aus der Schaltgruppe G1-G5 ausversehen in Neutral zurückschalten kann, um nicht ungewollt wieder im Leerlauf zu landen. (N) soll dann auch nur wieder durch einen langen Druck auf nen Taster zu erreichen sein. Das wäre dann natürlich BRUTAL GEIL! 😍 Aber ich gebe zu... sehr speziell 😅

Ich denke, ich hätte das jetzt fertig! 😀

@@arminrc Wow…🤩 Du bist ja irre! Krass! Ich bin schon froh, dass ich deine LUA Vorlage gestern für mich brauchbar umschreiben konnte und du haust das mal in ein paar Minuten raus 😅 GEIL! Darf ich das mal testen? 😃

Thanks!

Nun, ich denke, die Info sollte im Video sein und da ich nicht genau weiß, welche Funke du meinst: FlySky: ja, Radiolink: nein.

@@arminrc danke :) hast du Erfahrung mit der dumbo df350? Ich stehe gerade vor der Entscheidung dumbo 350 oder radiolink rc6gs

@@superfabian143 Sorry, mit der Dumbo-Anlage habe ich keine Erfahrung. Sieht aber interessant aus.

Feel free to fix it

Yes, indeed, it is the Tamiya Super Stock BZ brushed motor!

This is why I had to show it 😀

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Thanks! No, the Pocket3 was not used for these shots!

Well, I do not know this motor but in my Ultima a brushed motor is installed and it works good. Not perfect, but good. For filming the car does not have to go as fast as possible, so it is ok. But for driving just for fun I would install a brushless system.

@@arminrc I just figured if the car is a JJ then why install a JJ motor. The motor is no longer made, so it might be hard to find. Thoughts?

Thanks!