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I ended up with bold spots in my first pour. Do I need to remove entire first pour? or, can I sand lightly and apply a second pour over the first one? Feedback greatly appreciated.

And then .... Can we trust research, FDA regulations, labels, ingredients etc? It sure doesn't seem so ... especially these days.

I just wanna fill a milk crate with some objects that is relatively durable with a frame around the edges, like a dice, big crap shoot Thanks one pour cure, not to worried of clarity too much, brand or kind, or 5 more questions

Thank you 🙏

Horrible video. Provided nothing.

Ughhhh first time doing a table top. I poured a second flood coat after the first coat was a little tacky still (label said 5 hours, but wasn't long enough I guess) My second coat isn't self leveling and is now completely ruined lol. Oh well. Guess I'll be sanding tomorrow 🤣

can i fix a scratched wood stock that has an epoxy finish? how do i keep adding to make it flat? i just dont want to have to sand it to much as it has checkering on the stock. thanks for any help

Hi. I'm working on an outdoor project where a form of epoxy resin slab will be placed in a garden. I sun damage is my omly convern at this moment. Where can I purchase these 2 products?

I've done 15 tables without sanding between epoxy all of them was excellent jobs never had the sand in between to make the Bonds stick better it's going to stick great

Hi team, I’m from India and I was doing some R&D with epoxy resin on my food utensils products, It will be great if you can clarify my questions?

Good video

Will epoxy still yellow if you add a uv clear coat?

Where can I find the putty? Or something similar?

Can you add extra colour in this step. Mine has to much white, while drying there was a leakage ...

I purchased a used one as the piece is a bit pricey, but the machine czcams.com/users/postUgkxG6fbm3cHBd7CNTjk5D-dwYe9c9tCB9ZN has surpassed my expectations. We sand small parts by hand often, sized around 1"x1/2," and specifically look for a piece that's designed to be vertical. The motor has plenty of torque and great speed settings. The only inconvenience I had is that the disk measures 5" where we trim 6" stick-and-sand disks down easily by mounting it then cutting with a box cutter.

so what if you research each brand thoroughly, and you follow all directions, to the best of your ability. Is there a way to tell if it's food safe or not after it's been made? (like to make sure you didn't screw up somewhere)?

Isn't it going to rub off, when it's cleaned with a harsh kitchen spray or something, even dish detergent, or on to people's clothing, etc? Since it's just a compound/polish? I feel, like a car, that table would be totally cloudy again in a couple months, but unevenly of course, and look terrible.?? Am I wrong? peace *I actually have your 3 stage auto product right now. I was thinking about using it on a table, but I can't get past what I just described above. I see respectable makers use polish compounds, but Idk, I see a lot of things, lol. .. I also feel like I would taste it, and smell it maybe.

how to remove swirling on epoxy resin sir

Is this just rebranded auto rubbing compound?

After 2nd pour, can you sand final resin with 1500 grit and use Maguires plastic polish to REALLY MAKE it shine??

What is use polishing compund name please

Did your company name change? I keeping getting sent to a company named "Promise Epoxy" and the bottle looks different? Is this a new formula?

CN I use this as a top coat only? Or does it have to be the whole project pour?

Wait, so they can literally take the face off of one human being and put it on another human being but we can’t figure out how to stop epoxy from yellowing?

For deep pour it's much better and saves you time by pouring over the 1st layer while it is hard but still tacky, as long as there are no imperfections. The layers will bond if you don't let it completely harden. If you let it fully harden you will now require sanding. Be smart, get the bubbles out before the epoxy cures and save yourself time and $ (sand paper) and do the next pour before things fully harden.

I will never understand why ppl do flat Slabs of material. That’s the least effective way to showcase dynamic polishing. Most ppl can manage how to sand perfectly flat, thick material.!

Personally I find after hitting it with 800-1000 grit (depending on the item), top coating with epoxy works best for what I do..

if this is used for gluing (I have some left over), do you know the approximate strength (like 2000 psi, etc?). this is for a non-critical application, just general gluing of wood.

This stuff was so thick we couldn't even use it. Produced alot of bubbles just by mixing. They make good products but they need to find a way to make this thinner

Hello, Great quick video with plenty of tips. Do you have any experience with making the pour less viscous? I am wanting to do a second pour on corn hole boards I made due to there being some very shallow areas one some of the ends. The rest of the boards look great though so I do not want to have to use more product than needed. I read somewhere the only way to do this safely/correctly is to add heat to the resin and hardener before mixing. Any ideas appreciated!

Next time just leave out the terribly crappy music

Thank you!

"Much-Much longer," isn't a time frame. Did you ever test to see how long it takes to finally yellow?

Does a similar process work for deep pour? I have a 15 gallon pour I need to do. Your instructions suggest no more than 5 gallons at 1" at a time. I will obviously have multiple pours to reach the 2 1/4" thickness. Do i have to wait until the pour is fully cured (7 days) to pour send layer?

This isnt a how to. It's a commercial.

Does anyone see what this guy made? I don't.

Where to get this uv additive .

I'm looking for a crystal clear glow in the dark epoxy resin any ideas?

Kill the music!👎

When starting to polish what should my rpm range be?

Epoxy Resin with a UV additive will last much longer than Epoxy Resin on it's own, but if you use a clear Top Coat (Marine grade) you are safe for many years!

just a thought but why don't you but good epoxy? you pieces looked like shit after they dryied! my epoxy cures to a crystal clear piece of art!! buy better products

What is the heal ratings on this?

What is the heat tolerance?

This needs to be organized better. Very confusing at the end. Tried to show too many variables.

Hi I have to buff out a table I did for my customer because there’s some blemishes in it and some hard points sticking up so I’m gonna have to sand it down like on the video and buff it out how long do you have to wait before you can buff it out? Does it have to completely cure 100%? Or what’s the timeframe before I can sand and buff out the blemishes?

Of the few videos on this subject I've seen thus far, there seems to be an obsession with using IPA to wipe down between coats. Even if it weren't for shortages of alcohol currently, wouldn't this be better achieved simply by dust-removal with vacuum and brush attachment?

great video but i didnt get anything from it at all. Not enough comparison your lighting didn't let us see both finishes in detail and we leave the still not knowing which would be best for us. it would have been great at the end if you told us the differences in both finishes and showed us a bit better.

Was the point of the video to show that you don't have to sand up to 10k and buff out, all you have to do is a flood coat bc it will fill all the scratches and imperfections? That's what I saw.

Which is better according to your experience?