Video

I was wrong about the lug pattern, it is 4.5"-5 on a 8X3.75" wheel. I just bought one for $21! Figuring out I was wrong with my original measuring methods and that my hubs and wheels are the common size is a game changer. At this point, I'll knock the races out of the old hub that is removed and see if it is worth attempting to put the new races in. I'll either go with the flow, replacing everything that's needed with what I've got ordered, or I'll return the bearing kits, lug nuts, and studs, then order new hubs with installed races, bearings, and lug nuts as a $70 kit. The problem is finding five lug, one inch ID hubs. They are hard to find and therefore more expensive, but not by much. I found a completed set for $70, so if I can return everything successfully then I'll spend about $30 extra for the convenience switching. $50 Trailer $52 Tires $21 Wheel $25 Bearings $8 Lug Nuts $8 Studs $162 so far $192 if $70 Hub Kits instead $35 Lights and Wiring Harness $20 Hardware $80 PT Decking --> Free for now without weather resistance $20 Deck Water Sealant $70? New Title and Registration $40 Weight Ticket $462-492! I think I can just buy a new trailer for that much! I may just stop at what I got into it now and not worry about purchasing pressure treated lumber, and instead use the free wood and maybe some water seal, build my own lights, and re-use my RV tag for now to keep the cost near $200 or less. I think I'll save up some money and just buy a proper trailer next year.

I missed you good pal! Im glad you've still heading strong

It just occurred to me that I can do a simple economic hand rinse and spin dry before hanging up each dirty shirt between wearing and washing day. Now, that seems way better than doing nothing for next to nothing in energy and water, I mean they're soaked already, duh!

my question is if you learned how to take better care of your birds for example to small of a cage dowel perch that can give them bumble foot mirrors they will think its another bird and try to reproduce with it etc. bells try to get long bells they can cut their tung you know the thing inside there mouth? plastic food bowls those can gather more bacteria faster and gather diseases and more the rope toys if they try to ingest them it can get stuck in there tiny bodies and kill them. and DO NOT ONLY FEED THEM SEEDS AND MILLET JSUT LOOK IT UP GODDAMMIT

I actually don't suggest using the GFCI buttons on the end of the power cord to save energy. I've noticed on my two A/C I do this with frequently that the switches appear to wear out over time. I remember having an issue with the other A/C, and just yesterday as I'm uploading this video, I almost couldn't get the A/C behind the TV to work because of the GFCI "popping" almost as soon as connected, over and over again. I only got it working by half-pressing the button long enough for the A/C to stay powered on, then very gently releasing my thumb from the switch. It took multiple tries to succeed, and I've since left it alone. I'd advise either unplugging and plugging it in, like I used to, or dealing with the extra 20watt/hour? drain. Also, I really think my original guesstimates on my A/C's power consumption were a bit closer to reality, then the text popup onscreen during editing. After watching the wattages more carefully over more time, my recent update is: Smallest (behind recliner) 500 watts Smaller (behind TV) 650 watts Medium (broken behind TV) 900 watts Rooftop (requires soft starter) I honestly don't know, just guessing in the video from it's assumed ratings. I've got two more A/C's for free from one of my lawn care customers. One small and another medium sized one. The medium one is supposed to turn on, just likely needs a coil cleaning like they all do. That is great news, as the medium one along with the smallest unit was the best combination for all occasions, at least until I get a new rooftop heat pump A/C with a variable state compressor and a remote control. More to come!

Nice 👍

Hows the joshy

Love the content

Good morning

Nice work. I have 3 bike trailers like you, for a small dog or groceries, a flat bed one for transport 2 crates or other stuff and a big flatbed one for my modelairplanes. You can buy them here for 25 euros and make a biketrailer as you wish. Its not commnon here to have bicycle trailer using it for all kind of things, but I like it.

Nice. Glad to meet a fellow Jesus soldier that's into renewable energy

Good job

The powmr is just a copy of the 1st version of the makeskyblue. MakeSkyBlue v118-v119 is way better.

I just got done relocating the furnace under the stove and oven. Nothing but flat floor, wall to wall for the first eight feet of my place! Well, except the holes, but I already mentioned that I'm going to be putting in some new flooring. What I didn't mention is that I'm going to be replacing the whole floor from end to end eventually. Same with the ceiling and all of the wall paneling. I'll be putting in a pocket door between the bathroom and bedroom. I don't know If I can get one to work for the kitchen side with the wheel wells and plumbing in the way.

The 120 volt inverter does not backfeed into the GFCI outlet in the bathroom through the original hot water heater outlet. It is connected directly to the circuit breaker, which is ideal. I made a few errors when describing the wiring. The bedroom outlets are on the Kit/Ref breaker, not the LR/AC2. The microwave will share the Kit/Ref breaker, eventually. Finally, turn the inverter off, if it's not already OFF! More details in the "Details" of this video.

Whats withth the. eidiot statement about serving the lord as an intro about biketrailers.

The real question is do they come with chargers out the box? Samsung claims they don't require charging and that they're good for the environment. (Note 7 exploding)

So adorable

Why is is called "Solar Powered E-bike Trailer Propane exchange" when all I saw was you towing a propane cylinder, oh, and you fixing a towing connection. I think you could be more explicit with your titles and the video`s contents. I did see a bike towing a generator in the background which appears to be a better choice of video if you could show its build.

hows the suspension work on that thing

Your bird cage is too small

Saying “ unbox “ for pets is so wrong

nice birds

I think I didn't do something correctly in this video. The pad on the rear puck should be put all the way in against the disk rotor, tightened up from sideways adjustments, then backed out incrementally until it doesn't rub. That way it minimizes flex on the rotor, minimizing the need for tightening to one or two times before replacement, and maximizes the wear time by putting more load on the puck's pad more evenly balancing with the levered pad. I'll update after adjusting my brakes in the next couple days. I'll let you know how they did with the estimation method in this video versus what happens if I install the caliper and tighten the properly adjusted sideways adjustment before simply setting the puck all the way out against the disk rotor and finally backing off the puck instead of starting off somewhere in the middle. With these narrower pads, I think I may be able to set them all the way out so they don't need tightening until they are completely worn. I need to make sure I keep up on their wear to avoid unexpected trouble in the middle of travel. I should've explained how to do routine sideways adjustments too, but I've not yet articulated how to do it yet. It is due very soon, so I'll make a video showing that off. Basically make sure the puck has enough material sticking out and double check the levered pad too. Tighten the cable adjustments then retighten the cable with the bolted clamp and loosen the sideways adjustment bolts. Hold the hand lever tight while tightening the sideways adjustment, then back the puck out until it doesn't rub at all. Don't forget to tighten the puck's retainer key and double check the cable's tension and you're good to stop after you go!

Nicely done Joshua

Joshua, how much does the adhesive cost?

UPDATE! A couple days later I fixed the upside down latch framing and put the patching underneath the paneling, lining up the mechanism and providing a more secure closure, almost getting rid of the light seeping through before I even reset the way the whole assembly lines up with the reset walls. I also noticed the inside fiberglass is a half inch too low on the inside. I'm also wanting to figure out if JB Weld, sandpaper, and paint can fix up these holes, cuts, and seams on the aluminum to a near professional level? If not what will. Also, can you solder or weld aluminum seams together with basic equipment?

Some interesting power information for you: $100 for the used generator, $10 for the quart of synthetic oil. The 30 year old RV 120v AC - 12v DC step-down converter does work properly after a few repairs over the years. These are the reasons I don't use it any more versus why this new charger setup is ideal. Let's pretend I've not put the batteries in series with my 12v inverter installed. I wouldn't need my 24v - 12v DC step-down converter in the closet and I could charge the batteries from the RV's converter while the generator is running, but there is a downside. Same with using it as a way to avoid the extra 24v - 12v DC converter to power the lights, fans, USB chargers, and RV appliances. It can't charge 24v worth of batteries, so it's even more useless than the fact it uses 500 watts to supply enough DC power to include running high consumption furnace and original incandescent lighting while charging simultaneously when connected to shore power by design. That's more than my panels put out an hour at the best time on the brightest day, just to be ready to turn on a 12v led light or use the water pump for a few seconds every few hours! The other downside is it only puts out 3 amps to the battery bank, no matter how many batteries. Two batteries is only 1.5 amps each, that would take a 24 - 48 hours to charge them from dead that way. With the 24v - 12v converter there's a maximum 0f 3% loss from the batteries. To use the RV's converter instead it gets powered by the 24v DC - 120v AC inverter (losing the same 2 - 3%6 conversion efficiency), uses 1/4 of the inverter's capacity to power some LED lights and small fans while consuming 1/4 of the batteries total capacity an hour, or 1/4 more (125%) than my solar panels put out at near maximum, while not contributing anything back into the batteries as designed. But still, it can be done, although unsustainably. My entire home theater doesn't peak at what a simple converter uses to power a light bulb. Thankfully, we've come a long way in technology over the last 30 years for sure as modern RV AC-DC converters are variable output devices, more targeted to maintaining the batteries then high consumption appliances and lighting. The trade of is life expectancy, mine is 30 years old strong and modern ones get 10 - 15 years and cost $170 - $250 plus labor to replace. With the new (to me) 120v AC to 24v DC battery charger, I saw it peak at 9 amps. Even at 9 amps, far from the 25 amps I'm dreaming of, the power is six times (600%) of the RV's converter charge output. (Up to) 9 amps was going into each 12 volt battery in series during this time, instead of 3 amps being divided by the 2 batteries in parallel. At 25 amps that's 15X, or 1,500% of the RV's converter for 70% less electricity! Honestly, maybe the RV's DC converter doesn't always use 500 watts, but even in standby it hums and actively draws more power than the TV and Computer combined. By design it rated at 45 amps @ 12v DC, with 40 amps of those going to the distribution panel, 3 amps going to the batteries, and 2 amps getting lost to conversion. The new (to me) charger put everything it uses, minus conversion losses, into the battery and only "works" from the generator instead of constantly draining the batteries. What a story on RV DC converters, mine of which I'm not even using anymore! I keep it because it still works, it is an integrated part of the breaker and fuse panel box, and if sold or put back on shore power can be reconnected and used as designed. Should I make a video explaining all of this? I think so!

Was up Josh merry Christmas my brother miss ya man

I suppose my experiment was a success! I don't have the equipment to watch 4K anymore since my Phillips television broke a few months ago, but I believe in the selections available when I view it on CZcams after a successfully scary edit and a quirky uncertain upload. Nothing worked like I thought it should. I got the error of trying to use different resolutions when all the captures used for editing were 4K. Then the uploading took forever to get going, then reset with another forever to get past a couple percent. All the while checking in frequently waiting for the dreaded "metadata not saved error" like every other attempt before, eventually going to bed when suddenly I woke up the next morning to a video "ready to view" on my CZcams Channel. Joy! I don't know if it's worth all the data for recording, uploading on a cellphone data plan, and storing on a hard drive at this point to do this very often, but at least I know I can!

Awwwww so cute❤

I just got my cellphone internet service successfully switched to my new phone a couple hours ago and so far it has solved all of those deficiencies as well! Now it's an intensely independent internet capable pocket computer, phone and text messenger, and hotspot modem that (so far) works fast enough for my home too despite the mediocre signal and being surrounded by metal siding. I'm supposed to be able to take the SIMM out and put it back and forth with my other phone (Samsung Galaxy A12) without trouble. That will be a major benefit for a few reasons. I'll now have a backup device ready incase I break the Note 20 to simply insert the SIMM and get reconnected instantly. I may get another SIMM and service left deactivated in case of a total loss, all I'll need is $60 on a card texted on the A12 to get reconnected for 30 days instantly. Another is about the mediocre signal. If the cellular device is not right up against the very center of the "window" of the front door (often with a fan to avoid overheating) the signal goes from streaming 1080 to barely 144 it seems. So if I want to use that phone to edit or record videos, both of which it does a superior job at, while using the internet I can SIMM swap and have both. Finally I can take the A12 with me out and about instead to protect the Note 20 if I really wanted to. The reason I replaced the A12 as a home hotspot in the first place is the outdated economy device literally cannot avoid overheating with the mediocre cellular reception and the demands of being a hotspot and the limited processing power and RAM seemed to get filled up by background services requiring memory "cleaning" as a random routine. Same with resetting the hotspot or 4G connection as a random routine as well. When that doesn't work it's time to turn up the fan almost constantly blowing on it to max. That fixes it... for a while... usually... Now you see why I decided to try a $275-$300 gamble on it not being the service but the cellphone causing my problems all along. Thank goodness I was right or it's an inconvenient search for another carrier, risking locking the SIMM card slot to "Tracfone" spending the money to activate service (likely T-mobile 5G e-SIMM) that will end up being much more expensive per month, with major improvements in quality expected, if it works at all when I try the service out inside my home! I could save money and keep my number by porting over if I had/have to do switch carriers, but I think it'd be better to pay up and keep the extra SIMM and deactivated service in the A12 for insurance if the Note 20 unexpectedly "disappears". So far so good bringing up and looking around on CZcams Premium on my computer and streaming at 1080 30fps without trouble and a very short wait for a buffer to build up out of paranoia. If I make it through the day streaming 1080 60fps then I will consider my internet service solved for the long run. I will then work on the cellular signal booster I bought back several months ago. I never got it working and I suspect it's a fake booster device. I can always try again and if I do get a signal booster working, I can have my cake and eat it too by not forcing the phone out of any other use if I want to use it for internet service inside my home. Also, what about bad weather slowing it down? Will it shut down the internet like it used to, will I hardly notice anymore, or somewhere in-between? I'm going to produce some content on this very interesting story as it unfolds. I may even return this phone and try again but spend a bit more and get a "new" Note 20 instead of gambling on another refurbished one. There are two scratches, one on the screen and another on a camera lens, that should not be there according to the "certified excellent condition" Ebay rules. The A12 is still very useful right now as a quick and convenient "memo" camera and audio recorder until getting better inside reception for the Note 20. Also, it does make a wireless portable file storage and swapping device with expandable SD Card storage to make up for the small 128gb I'm stuck with on the Note 20. Same with my Bose Bluetooth speaker. It lacks decent reception range, memory card compatibility, or remote controls over BT and it's sounds noticeably worse when unplugged from external power. However with both phones I can hotspot to the A12 connected to the Bose and in-between the Note 20 so I can keep my phone on me at all times and others can use the main controls on the lock screen of the A12 to make up for it's lack of controls. I can also download or copy music on the A12 coupled with the Bose to be completely internet independent. I think there's even an FM radio too. I bet a more modern speaker would solve all of these shortcomings being made up by carrying another extra pocket computer as well, and I'm going to search for a USB-C stick in drive that fits on a keychain so one day I'll never have an active need for both phones. I've really had a terrible time with the A12 after suffering through the LG Stylus 5, everything from the cameras, screens, and sound to the poor performance due to mediocre reception at home. I routinely have to force myself not to break the A12 in fits of anger and rage over the fact I'm spending money but the service seems randomly and routinely be worse the for the last year and remember to appreciate the fact that it does work at all, being far better than no internet and no backup device. I'm so relieved of it now for now. More to come!

I havent seen Jay and Kay in forever! Can i get a spray spray too

I have a lot of "AA" NiMH rechargeable batteries with a great USB powered charger. The problem with these batteries are they are 1.2 volt versus 1.5 volt on regular batteries. I realize getting rechargeable "D" cell batteries will also require getting a charger for them and they won't put out any more voltage than the USB charger, in fact a little less at 4.8 volts versus 5+. My cheap and effective solution is to make/purchase some 5 cell "AA" battery holsters so I can use all the extra rechargeable NiMH "AA" batteries laying around at 6 volts for this fan, fitting in the "D" cell recess or anything else that needs a solid 6 volts in the future for a couple dollars!

The end of this month came too quick

I did a terrible job of explaining about the lead acid batteries. I was in a hurry and I've been through so many models and numbers in the last month looking up parts and comparing prices that recalling specifics in a changing setup takes a moment from time to time. Anyways, I did learn how to use and came home with a hydrometer along with an battery syringe and a liter of sulfuric acid for batteries to begin balancing the electrolyte level in each cell and where the actual "full" level is (it's not almost at the top like I originally though). Instead of spending $250 replacing these batteries, I'm confident I can fully restore these for $25. I don't think the lead is deteriorated as I've been good about not running them dead or dry, just overfilling resulting in chronic spillage of electrolyte causing a greater imbalance with each bi-weekly top off. When the batteries are fully charged tomorrow I'll get to find out if I live up to my screenname with my first hydrometer test result. Should I get my camera out for this? There's only one video I found online that I had a hard time finding showing me what to do with a poor hydrometer reading by adding "acid" but not explaining what to actually use by name, that took another hard time finding a proper identification of the product. Amazingly, I found all three items to solve my problem at a local store before purchasing them online. However, it was only one store (O'Reilly's Auto Parts) out of a long list making it another hard find. Now I know, and knowing is almost the whole battle for this situation.

My Dad had to pay over $400 and it took a few hours out of our budget because the moving company took no responsibility.

You bastard

Some automotive stores carry a half inch but it you have no tap and die set don't go that route. I turned a old propane tank into a wood burner for a water heater out back, you have the ability to go that route? Definitely want to keep 10 inches away with a high heat off the stove, if you continue the metal back splash from the shelf to the wall you'd be good. I'm suprised most of that isn't outside so you get a bit more space. Good luck on the projects.

Be careful bro! Ever think about a kill switch with a separate breaker that runs off the little 15amp fuses? Don't forget to do maintenance with your batteries. Draw a schematic update for us. They may be hippy sparks but it can still suck overloaded. Good luck on the build!

Don't worry every time I buy something from China it never comes I never get it how about so many different things with that China I lost over $10,000 throughout the years and I still have not received anything I bought since about 2013 and I still haven't got any of it yet and they wouldn't give me my money back either I suppose because I guess there's a certain cutoff. Time that you connect to get your money back but I was giving more than that time before and the delivered to me cuz I understand it takes forever to from the good to me and it still taking forever to get it to me and I still haven't received it. Which now that makes me all broke.

So far I bought several solar panels some of them came with a 200 watt inverter in 1998 since then I bought some more solar panels different size and I got a little bigger inverter a 750 watt inverter and and then in 2012 I bought two 150 watt solar panels biggest solar panels ahead yet but then in some years later I bought four 405 watt solar panels and last year I bought 11 / 100 watt solar panels and this year I started to get 180 watt solar panels and now I thinking of generator that comes with batteries something I want so many years ago that they didn't have try to find them back in 1998 it wasn't such a thing but I complained it asked about it for many many years and now they have something like that so I don't have to get an actual inverter all I have to do is get generators that uses less solar panels did you the same thing as an inverter and batteries do just to charge up a generators to run everything now it's going to cost a lot of money to buy them. But I will be buying more solar panels do it as well anyways when it can always come up with the money to do it it's only have to buy one or two solar panels at a time now. Course every time when I first started ordering solar panels it also came with a solar charger a 30 amp charger I told me the amps and the bolts that were coming in now to buy that thing it's going to cost an arm and a leg when I saw him for sale I bought one for like 10-15 bucks but now they cost $86 for a 12-volt or 24-volt solar charger for charging batteries.

How's the amazing Josh?

Those blue "8,000ma" USB power banks were about $9.00 each at Walmart last year. The USB-C to USB-C "Samsung" cables are rated: Great deal, good product. I can't verify that they are actual name brand, but they readily support at least 30watt PD high speed charging. My primary cord has held up well for more than six months of careful, heavy use. I don't know about data ability, but for two dollars it's almost a steal of a deal! You know what else you can do without a battery and charge controller with a solar panel and high voltage USB adapter aside from phones, tablets, and USB battery banks that you could connect USB lights to? A USB battery charger for "AA" and "AAA" NiMh batteries for anything else low voltage that's not USB compatible! That's how I originally solved my lighting. You know what I did to avoid the incandescent lighting from killing my E-bike batteries when I got the Solar Charge Controller? I used my 12v LED strip lighting that runs from end to end to light up all three sections without the horribly inefficient drain of just one or two of non-LED bulbs. It didn't last long before I figured out that converting my mains to LED lamps was more than affordable.

I just thought about the charge rate being a severe limiting factor on the Flooded Lead Acid Batteries! I wonder if that is why they seem to overflow even though I followed the proper steps when I check the levels? That would explain why they seem to have a lot less capacity then when new a couple months ago. Then again, I could be completely within a safe range with the limits of my solar panels and charge controller. Either way, I'll take the best care to get the most out of what I've got invested in my first set of batteries but I'm going to switch to lithium sooner than later if that is what has shattered my expectations with using flooded lead acid batteries for daily storage. If that's the case, then there has to be a way to lower the charge rate from my controller but still supply full power when under load, right? I guess I'll make another video out of this situation and answer the question about charge rates, settings, and side effects.

To answer the question of homophobia being justified in the extreme case of child sexual slavery survival: ABSOLUTELY NOT! There is no end to an addiction without intervention and we're systemically designed to avoid correction until complete destruction - The modern American Government Children have become the slaves in this game where there are no winners, only losers. We had a Civil War to free one group of slaves long ago, maybe it's time for another group of slaves to be set free?

I was probably only topping out at 160 usable watts off my six panels on a 12-volt PWM setup. I got at least 330 usable watts maximum with my 24-volt PWM setup. However, I hit an all-time high today with my MPPT Solar Charge Controller noticing 480+ usable watts coming in for a few seconds. I beat my $1 per watt spent on solar panels today! I can more than double my panel output for the same price ($475 spent on panels) before I'll need to add another Solar Charge Controller ($95). I should add some more storage batteries already too. I really want to save up and (re)start with Lithium batteries, but what do I do with these Lead Acid batteries if integration is more than they are worth ($225 w/o care charges)? I may add them to the one Renogy panel, buy another with PWM Controller, and the 12v 1,2000 watt PSW inverter as a "starter" set.

Good luck. -about the e-bike, I saw a video of one of the battery packs just lighting on fire 'cause it 'identified' as a match.

Good luck in court.

"What the market will bear."...