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David Lacey
Malaysia
Registrace 16. 02. 2007
Kugelfischer warm-up regulator overhaul & calibration using the 2002FAQ kit.
This shows how to physically rebuild and calibrate the warm up unit on the back of a Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection pump, as fitted to the BMW 2002 tii. The kit of parts & tools is available from www.bmw2002faq.com, and there are full written instructions over there including how to remove the unit from the car and how to recover the air/fuel tuning after the overhaul.
The wax actuator is believed to be the same in a variety of MFI cars from late '60's & '70s, and the general principles of overhaul and calibration likely the same:
BMW 520i(E12), BMW M1(E26)
Ford Capri RS2600
Peugeot 404, Peugeot 504
Porsche 911/911S/Carrera RS/RSR/Carrera,
Porsche 935
Ferrari 308
Lancia Stratos
Lancia Flavia
The wax actuator is believed to be the same in a variety of MFI cars from late '60's & '70s, and the general principles of overhaul and calibration likely the same:
BMW 520i(E12), BMW M1(E26)
Ford Capri RS2600
Peugeot 404, Peugeot 504
Porsche 911/911S/Carrera RS/RSR/Carrera,
Porsche 935
Ferrari 308
Lancia Stratos
Lancia Flavia
zhlédnutí: 320
Video
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ams osram team trekking to monkey beach and then boating back to teluk bahang
Inside the Kugelfischer / Schaefer Mechanical Fuel Injection Pump
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From 1962, the Kugelfischer medium-pressure gasoline port injection pump was used on European performance cars made by the likes of Peugeot, Ford, BMW, Ferrari and Porsche. In the late 60's it was adapted to support turbocharged production cars with mechanical manifold pressure dependent fuelling. Its use continued in motorsport into the 1980s where a computer-controlled version of this simple ...
Uphill Clean Acceleration
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2002 turbo overtaking & running up to Anjung Indah summit
'02 turbo pulls away from the dam pit-stop
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The 2002 turbo sounds great as it accelerates away from the parking lot
DIY distributor tester
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A homemade ignition distributor tester to measure both centrifugal and vacuum advance. made from a 100W DC motor, a 12V motor controller, a camshaft timing wheel plus various belts, pulleys & bearings. A standard automotive strobe light allows me to "see" the timing on the degree wheel (running at half distributor speed). Unfortunately, you can't see the strobe with a digital camera....but you ...
TriumphTR4A gearbox strip & reassemble
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Stripping down overdrive gearbox and reassemble with new casing, new bearings and fixed endfloat
Malaysia's first turbocharged car: 1974 BMW 2002 turbo
zhlédnutí 4,8KPřed 3 lety
This is a UK delivery 2002 turbo, one of 62 supplied (LHD) with MPH speedometers [confirmed by BMW, Munich]. It was exported to Malaysia when new and registered for road use in January 1975. It's first few years were as a saloon racer at races around Malaysia including Enduro '75 at Batu Tiga and the Penang SuperSaloon Championship. Recently restored back to original specification, this is its ...
Quick fix for poor-performing DLO-20D injectors on BMW 2002 tii
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed 4 lety
The kugelfischer or bosch DLO-20D injectors start to leak and give bad spray patterns after years of neglect. You can test them using a 'pop tester 'and fix the spray pattern and leaks with careful application of fine valve grinding paste
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anti-rust treatment for classic cars based on linseed oil & candle wax...kitchen waxoyl
Auto trunk release upgrade for an ancient BMW
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As part of a central locking upgrade, auto trunk release works nice...
The MSVCR's Independence Day Drive in Penang
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The Northern Region car club plus friends did a round island drive just for fun...
Lotus 28 avoiding cones with the Northern Lotus crew
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Lotus 28 avoiding cones with the Northern Lotus crew
Flag-Off for the 2017 MSVCR AGM Road Rally
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Flag-Off for the 2017 MSVCR AGM Road Rally
The MSVCR Classic & Vintage Cars on show at the 2010 Singapore Grand Prix
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The MSVCR Classic & Vintage Cars on show at the 2010 Singapore Grand Prix
St Christophers School Carol Concert 2008 (3 & 4 yr olds...)
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 15 lety
St Christophers School Carol Concert 2008 (3 & 4 yr olds...)
I've been told that the version used on the Peugeot 504 Ti runs on engine vacuum and therefore impossible to add forced induction - do you know if this is true?
Yes, the Peugeot uses a variation of this pump: As i understand it, the cam and fuel delivery pistons are the same, but the height of the 'hinged plate' is controlled by manifold vacuum. This is arguably a more direct/better approach than the BMW implementation,which is very sensitive to throttle synchronisation. I also guess that this manifold vacuum Peugeot system doesnt respond to 'boost' as thats not what it was designed for. There are turbo versions of this KF pump where the 'speed control' of the cone rotation is replaced by manifold pressure control of the cone rotation.
@@ctc77965o Thank you so much for your informative reply! Do you happen to know any good resources (books, websites, etc.) what I could learn more about kugelfischers? I'm restoring an old 504 and was considering if it's worth or even possible to add a supercharger or turbo with some modification
do you have the link where you bought the kit, please ?
it will be available on www.bmw2002faq.com in July
@@ctc77965o thank you
@@ctc77965ohow much the price is?
Brilliant, a thousand thank you for this video
❤
Great video. I have a question for you - does the elbow on the bottom for the oil drain tend to feel loose? I am sorting out multiple oil leaks and noticed that the elbow moves slightly and was wet (not sure if oil came from there or elsewhere). Any advice appreciated.
Yes that drain hose is often rather swollen & soft...it's only job is to direct the oil back into the engine sump, so you can replace it with a suitable oil-resistant hose (not water hose). It should not be loose, make sure suitable hose clamps seal it well at both ends... there's only crankcase pressure there, but it can still leak and slowly make a mess.
@@ctc77965o thanks for the quick response David! The hose itself was tight but I did remove it to replace anyhow. However my main concern is that there is a metal elbow that comes out of the kfish housing and 90s, and the hose is attached to that. The metal elbow feels loose in the kfish housing just a bit. I have video, not sure how to post it here. Is that normal? Or is that elbow usually rock solid?
Sorry misunderstood...that metal.outlet pipe should be rock solid.
@@ctc77965o hmmm so I have an issue there. Any idea how to tighten it up, or why it’s loose? It does not spin. My natural gravitation is toward something like RTV or JB weld
@@ctc77965o dug a bit further. Removed the back cover off the kfish and I can see that elbow is held into the cover with a roll pin. I think I’ll clean it well and seal it up on the outside to prevent leakage. Planning to use JB weld. Thanks so much for this video, for your responses, and for my WUR rebuild kit! I did that yesterday before noticing the leak at the bottom.
Fantastic build!!
Hi David, thanks for the video. Did you have any suggestions on cleaning the upper part of the injector? For example could you safely run fuel or cleaner through upper part using the pop tester? Seems like that would rinse things out.
The upper part of the injector is a check valve, a one-way valve, with quite a high opening pressure... those valves are all-steel, so you can use any organic liquid - kerosene, gasoline, paint thinners etc etc. Dont use water-based fluids as these valves will rust. I think the choice of fluids depends more on what your pop tester can handle (it has plastic parts and rubber seals).
Hi David, echo all the words of thanks and admiration for the breakdown and explanations you give here. (of which, Im here courtesy of the message you left on Aussie Frogs about the wax -cold-control-enrichener-thingy !! you are re manufacturing... I'll be placing an order for my 504 injection before too long. Once again, thanks and literally any info you put out re these Kugelfischer systems will be appreciated by us lot, r's (liked the injector refresh video you did) mike
What pump pressure do you need?
30psi is what's expected...that fuel pressure is what "fills" the pump, assisting the suction of the spring loaded plunger/pistons. I don't think higher fuel pressure makes much difference (fuel is quite incompressible) but very low fuel pressure...or fuel pressure that reduces in hi flow/max power condition will cause misfires.
Very interesting video, and a great explanation! Thank you. 🙂 IM 😎
What was the conclusion? What did you find?
Hello, thank you for the video. Did you re-use the washer between the 2 pieces of the injectors? Its a washer made of steel. Or did you use a copper washer? 8x12x1mm
Hey Lucas, I re-used the original washer. To increase the injector opening pressure you can add a hardened steel washer, that will raise the 'peg' and make the spring under more tension. (Peg sees every injection pulse, so only hardened steel should be used)
Absolutely perfect strip down and explanation. Thanks for uploading this. What an absolute super piece of clever design, especially the cone 'fuel map' clever device.
very well explained
Why not heat the outer bearing in oil so it just drops on?
Do you have a wiring diagram?
Sorry no diagram... I made it up as I went along
Thank you for this video, very interesting!
Pretty clever. I was completely unfamiliar with this system being over here in the States.. Although I assume if I was in to older BMWs that may have be different. The delivery of fuel is very similar to an inline diesel injection pump but the metering is more similar to a rotary pump. and the control, and mapping ability is very unique.
If I won the $$$ lottery, this would be the car!
Great solution, thanks for the inspiration
Merdu jekk..
Made in germany the best!!!
Can you share some info on how you made the rig?
Its a 12V DC motor with a DC motor controller, the drive for the degree wheel is 40tooth and 20tooth GT2 timing pulleys and a GT2-240 belt, the degree wheel is a cam timing wheel. All these parts available aliexpress etc. Degree wheel turns at twice motor/dizzy speeds so you can read 'crank degrees' with a strobe light. Its very stable...no scatter with the drive belt. Frame is something I fabricated, drive to the distributor is just rubber tube, rest is ignition components and a Car Battery.
The control box is just a bunch of switches and an old electronic tacho out of a BMW
Love your car 🥰🥰🥰
Boss ade ke yg nak jual bmw 2002 ni kat Malaysia. Cari x jumpa la
Oh wow nice car! Any recommend place that i can build back my bmw 2002 :)
this is terrific and has really helped me. I would like to know how you applied the fine grinding paste? I assume you smothered the pintle and rubbed by hand to loosen before cleansing and placing into the ultrasound cleaner? Would love to know as this is my task this weekend. I have 1 of 4 injectors not working well for a Peugeot 504... thanks David!
Yes, just the same as you would an intake valve in a cylinder head...grind for a bit, lift re-coat the face, grind for a bit, etc etc You can also recover the opening pressure with an internal spacer washer: www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/262586-fixing-tii-injectors/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1426578
Hi David, stumbled upon you as I have a 504 Injection and need all the help available to keep the thing going! This is great advice, thank you. (i'm fortunate to have 12 injectors, so swap them around, but fixing them is next, r's mike
What an unicorn! Never thought 2002 turbo existed in Malaysia..my dad used to own 2002 back in 70s, the pre facelift model with round tail lights.
Excellent - this will save me a lot of trouble. Many thanks for posting.
You should check the end float dry, no grease. No need to use a drive shaft yoke to tighten on, there is a tool for knocking the inner bearing in which has a shoulder stop on it of 0.150" you then fit a dti gauge on the tool then lift up the hub and take the dti gauge reading, then add the clearence you need to the reading, 0.003" to 0.005" endfloat. Then grease it. R.T.F.M Cheers from uk. What torque setting are you using, 100psi.
So how do you get it on the car?
I Never Thought of That! Thank You!!!
Hey David, I really like your video about this spring compression method! I would like to eventually build such a spring compressor myself but I was wondering where do you get these two threaded rods and nuts from? Thanks in advance!
*Max Levenko* I don't know if this is still useful for you, but large hardware outlets or stores that specialized in fasteners stock threaded rod.
Brilliant!
I am now rebuilding my IRS and as I am now doing the hub bearings I hoped to see a video showing the outer oil seal as I cant find which direction is the inside or outside? any pictures or videos would be appreciated.
The protruding lip goes inside...thats the pressure side
whats the bearings inside the hub where it mounts to the arm called? i need these as mine has play in it
Question: I am into this now. How the heck did you get the old races out of the outer fulcrum hub? I can't find anything I can stick down there to hammer the grooves and move the race. The attachments on my slide hammer are too big to fit in and/or grab the race inside the tiny little 1/4 inch grooves
arthur1920 hi, did you get these bearing tracks out? How?
This video is very helpful.
those balancers are trick, i need to see if they got those for hd8's
What size is the thread where the damper usually fits so I can make up adaptors
Memories I was in St. Chris n now I'm in Uplands . My last performances in school was thriller by MJ
I am posting to all the places I can to find a buyer for my shortened LCAs and Axles shafts from my JAG IRS. They were shortened by CWI. Too bad they are gone, cant find them on the web anymore...They are 57" and like new Never used on the road. they have nee installed on the irs for a year or so. They are to narrow for my truck application. If you are interested or know someone who might be, contact me at Bryansoth1@gmail.com
Brilliant! I just used this method, it was easy and safe. Nothing I love more than a novel solution to an age-old problem!
Hi , I like this one.. It what i needed but do you have the same for a 1989 jaguar xj6 .My right side wheel hub rebuilding it different form this one you have.. I like to know how to put all the part back together.. and all the part i need .to put back.. Thank you..
@padge46 This is they one job where you need to borrow a press. I suggest you take the assembly to a local workshop and ask for their help to press-out the shaft (originally loctited-in) and then remove that inner ace with a bearing separator on the same press. Take care of the flimsy water thrower just behind that inner race. I could not get that shaft out with a puller on my etype...but earlier on an XJS I had one come apart with n force needed....
BEST OF BRITISH........ LEGEND
I think you are talking about Jaguar Part No C15232 You should be able to get one from Barrats or XKSunltd
At 3:05 Did you say "collar"? I can't find this part anywhere. Mine burned up along with the inner bearing and now I have to grind the melted metal off the hub! Can you please tell me where I can find that last metal piece you put on because it does not come with the bearing kits and there are no 80's XJS's in the junkyard near me. Nice Video it has helped me alot and now Im stuck : (
lol you drive like drunken you cut the curves twice