Video

Purchased them. Bike wheels don’t have the bearing loaded hubs or the right opening for this setup.

I wanted to add a picture of the one I did but 🤷🏽‍♀️🤷🏼‍♀️ how to

As I mention in the video I used Black Mamba.

It's even worse in camry

any solution for it?

@@Farhan.Realtor unfortunately not .

Yes... redesigning the car. It's the problem with aerodynamics

1. Hope that Toyota recognizes this an actual issue experienced by owners. 2. Hope that Toyota is inspired to look for a solution. 3. Hope that Toyota Engineers pinpoint the cause and come up with a solution. 4. Hope that Toyota respects their customers enough to provide and implement the solution to current owners and not just to yet to be built cars. The only other option is hope a current owner with the issue is willing to risk losing warranty coverage and dive into it on their own car and find a solution and post it. It’s a lot of hoping.

You are correct that most kayaks, including mine in the video, do not have absolute flat bottoms and a flat bar axle may or may not work. Your suggestion of some sort of bunks is excellent. Thanks for not just stating a problem, but a possible solution along with it. The concept I shared in the video was never meant to be a one size fits all. It was just something that worked for me that I thought I would share in case it helps someone else. Kind of a pay it forward from the benefit I’ve received from other posters. The cart I made could be a base to build from depending on the viewers boat type. Some foam wrapped wood blocks, or some short pieces of pvc pipe could be bolted to the axel to cradle a strong curved bottom. Also, as I stated in the video the flat axel can be wrapped with some foam, and lashed with cable ties, to absorb the bottom curvature of some boats. Depending on the boat type it may or may not be enough. I have since done this to mine and it works very good. Lastly, the thought process behind this cart concept was to utilize the axel nearest the center of gravity favoring the rear by about a 60/40 off center. It was never meant to be a far back set carrier where there would be the most bottom curvature. The 60/40 concept puts most of the kayak weight over the axel and makes it very light to lift the nose and haul - like a typical large boat trailer. It also puts it near the flattest (using the term loosely) portion of the kayak. This should require the least help to absorb the curvature. Thanks again for posting the very real concept issue. As you can see from my long book reply it got my juices flowing thinking about it.

The bowl I removed that was in the vacant opening in the video was originally set with Black Mamba. Removing as I describe was not overly difficult. The hard part was breaking through the edge with the puddy knife the first time like I mention. After working around and breaking the seam, it eventually dropped. Then the cleaning was probably easier than if silicone was used because it didn’t seem to ball up and roll when scraped like silicone does.

I just did the two 1/4x20 bolts and it is quite secure. Glad the video gave you something to work with.

The 2x4 and all thread is a good option for single person removal and reinstallation with slow set adhesives. But the nice thing about the new fast set adhesives is they are set in 15 seconds. So the setup really couldn’t be used for reinstallation. Good option for removal though. Thanks for the info!

Did for me. The adhesive is pretty strong stuff.

Thanks for the comment and good question. There is a lot of adhesives out there for all different tasks. The best adhesives would be the ones designed and rated to do the specific task. In this case, hold a porcelain bowl to a countertop. Make sure the adhesive is rated to bond to porcelain and whatever your counter top material is (granite, quartz, wood, etc.) together and that it is meant to hold a bowl in place. And is rated for the weight of the bowl. Is silicone or Liquid Nail rated for that? Idk, maybe, maybe not. An adhesive that's been manufactured and tested to hold bowls in place is what you want. To use something else might work or it might result in the issue you are having of the bowl pealing away. And even if you could use something like silicone or a liquid nail type product, it takes a long time to set making the install frustrating. Would I use something different then or next time? No and no; no need to. All I know is I did my research on it and used Black Mamba and it worked. Set super fast and still holding. IMHO there is no need to use anything else. Another brand that's just like it? Sure if it exists. I don't know if you are thinking of just applying something with the bowl as is and trying to press it back into place. You could try, but it probably will not last. Something has failed. Do it right. Take it out, clean all surfaces and remove old adhesive. Inspect the surfaces for damage and if none, then install new adhesive and bowl. If that was your plan anyway than you are on the right track. Hope it goes well.

You are correct. Thank you for highlighting the frequencies. This video is old and was made before the new FCC rules went into effect on Sept 28th, 2017. When the video was made GMRS and FRS had some frequency differences.

You are absolutely correct. These can be purchased for cheap money. Not sure if I would trust the 500lb on some I have seen though. But YMMV. I’ve come to realize I think this one will hold more than the tongue rating of the receiver, a little overbuilt I suppose. Oh well. I had 90% of the material so it was cheaper for me to build it. I realize most people will not have the material and would be better off just buying one. The video was more of something I was building anyway so I videoed it in case someone wanted some ideas if they needed to build a custom one. Didn’t really expect many people actually need to build one. I have since made some conversions to it and it now doubles a multi bike carrier. So it can save the cost of a bike carrier too I suppose. Thanks for checking out the video.

I cable lock it to a tree