Video

I've both two of these pumps and I can get anything to come out of the bleeder screw but if I gravity bleed them it works?? Wtf am I doing wrong

I ordered the NOYITO version because they were cheapest and have found they don't work. The NO/COM/NC block doesn't work? The only way to switch the relay on is through the pigtail, and it didn't work long before it melted in my hands, lol. I'll try the exact ones you used next.

All this time I thought I had a wiring issue! LOL! I've got mine torn apart to delete my turn signals and use a LED brake light with integrated turn signals. I knew that I needed a new flasher, but now I know that I NEED THESE!! Thanks!

The best video I ever seen THANK YOU FOR THAT SIR

KILLER TIP ON THAT TEFLON TAPE BROTHA!!!

Just fill the res up after sucking it out and don’t bother with the stupid filler

I used this kit instead of a pickle jar this time. It bleeds pretty slow but I like the auto top off. I pumped the brakes on top of using this and it worked much faster.

Iam glad I found this video, I have an 88 sportster and it's a headache holding in the turn button. Thank you.

Thank you dad. Very helpful video

I like to clean in and around the disassembled primer seating assembly before every use, especially when having problems. I rotate the "cup" 90 degrees when having issues, before taking apart. Sometime that helps. I like to use a "C" clamp to hold the primer seater down while screwing in the Allen Set Screw.

Psi?

This video is perfect. Saved my a$s at work after I tore down the shops 1911 and could figure out the sear spring.

Thanks for the video! My CM9 was both gritty and a jam-a-matic. Dropped the complete slide into the ultrasonic cleaner at work and a whole bunch of metal chips washed out of that little pistola. That was 12 years ago and it has yet to experience a single malfunction after the bath. It is also one of the most accurate pistols I have ever shot.

Hey I have a question my convertible hood is old and peeling which k believe is making it leak on both the driver and passenger side is there something I can do to stop it that doesn’t involve a new hood . Having an operable hood is not important to me

Polish then dry lube sparingly.

best video i've seen on complete 1911 takedown. thank you!

Are you just doing each wheel until clear clean fluid comes out?

Nice video my man.

I put the mag catch in, and cant pull the trigger

Just used this video to take down my Tisas Commander 1911 9mm to replace the trigger. Kudos, sir.

Very nice. Can you share the file

Perfect video demonstration. Thank you. Makes me wanna buy a builders kit.

Thanks so much for this 👍

That happened to me with .45 Colt cases head stamped blank. Worked like a charm for that with no primer set back as blanks.

The biggest problem I had was that (fill in with bad language) disconnector and sear. ). After that no problems. Very good very clear how to do video and it thanks.

great information! i think the sharpening rod is ceramic! gonna get the cw45 been watching every vid about kahr.

Cool video. I found one like this today in a storage unit.

Interesting! Every now and then I have a primer that somehow gets pressed in sideways. I noticed a snappy feeling sometimes in the down stroke. On an empty shell plate i can see the primer jump up, tumble sideways and sometimes even hopping out of the cup. I’ll give your methode a try. Thank you!

Great video, thanks for taking the time to post this!

Thanks fot sharing, now im more confident bleeding my break

I bought one. It sucks. Pump by foot works better

Thank you so much! This is the best 1911 disassembly AND RE-assembly I have found; some videos don't even show the re-assembly. Thanks for all your tips too!

A person shouldn't have to go through all this crap with a gun. Kahr's are a Chinese POS weapon

this is especially useful with smaller loads for pistol or revolver. Great choice.

Legit video

Very nice. How do you figure-out compression height for a specific spring weight? Is it different depending on the pistol type?

Great demo thanks for explaining 👍👍

Nicely Done! Going to pick one up tomorrow. I've done it the old fashioned way a few times telling someone to pump and hold when I say so and its a long slow process. Your brake fluid looked pretty good, most people let it get to near oil black. Thanks much!

Nice way of explaining and showing how to do the jobb, Greetings from Sweden

good idea and good video. Thanks

Very useful! Thanks for sharing!

It's been a while since you made this video, curious if you make the bullet feeders/sell them??? If so, please let me know! Thanks

Very poor quality control on these. Mine didn’t even have an opening on the rubber fitting tip. Didn’t work at all even using the tube alone. IMO it’s worth spending a bit more. This is junk.

Awesome mate! /Sweden

@7:52 crack my nutt lmfao

Melting down a huge cast iron dutch oven full of lead wheel weights using a high output LP turbo burner and a turkey/fish fryer without a PID is a disaster waiting to happen. Less is more and more is less. You want to bring them up to somewhere between 621 - 700 degrees slowly and carefully monitor the temp. Zinc won't melt at that temp range but all of the lead/tin/antimony will be completely liquid and ready to pour. The magnet idea was very clever and very similar to how the Frankfort Arsenal (SKU: 909271) magnet works to recover stainless steel media pins in wet case tumblers. They aren't rated for that kind of heat though and making one using your idea would be preferred. Your PID thermocouple stand is also very clever and works great. It always amazes me how us reloaders/bullet casters have to design and fabricate so much of our tooling ourselves. No one makes a affordable commercially available one for the masses to buy. I've made a bunch of my own reloading/casting tools. Some of them are my PID digital temp control boxes and a metal stand to hold and adjust the thermocouple probe in casting pots. I've also made steel ingot molds, berm lead recovery shaker boxes and various other mining tools, casting mallets, large smelting pot setups, ladles, paper/silhouette target holders. I have made my own swinging steel plate targets, reloading benches, single reloading press steel stands anchored to the concrete floor (kinda like old grinder stands with a steel square tubing pole and top/bottom steel plates etc etc etc. I suppose they figure if we are smart enough and mechanically inclined enough to reload and cast bullets we can build our own equipment. You can remove Zinc that has contaminated your lead alloy using careful temp control and powder pure sulfur. While doing this you must be very careful because the fumes are toxic. A good quality 3M P100 respirator is a must. It also flashes and bursts into flames so it must be done outside in a clear area void of fire hazards and you remaining upwind of the fumes. Tie a piece of toilet paper to a stick and insert it in the ground near you to keep a eye on wind direction. It's far easier to take your time and be more careful to start with. It seems every guy with a match and a LP turkey/fish fryer is melting their own scrap lead these days. Us more experienced guys wouldn't want anything they made or loaded. The same guys overcharge and make (((((ATOMIC))))) barrel burner loads because HOTTER is always better as well.

Has to be older then the one i have it's blue, and i bought it in 1977.

I noticed you did not discuss any polishing of parts. Do you not recommend doing that and letting the firearm just wear polish parts?

Thanks for the great info

Thanks, you did that so easy and fast