Video

Hey can you give me the link to the screws holding down the motor to the 4 way connector?

Couple ways to add pipes to motors czcams.com/video/bf83JMm42Hg/video.htmlsi=BNyOGllKw0PF8nxA czcams.com/video/k4fVadbBE7c/video.htmlsi=9sCKX3xYgsd-vqfT

Looks awesome just a question though. How do you get the mouth to move in time with a speech recording?

Just found your channel great video . Subscribed

It looks great, however I'd be concerned about the skull breaking/tearing where it is screwed to the L-bracket.

Hey this is G_Dub again, really cool stuff here. Do you create your own background music? I would bet you are also a musician! I heard a scary little lick being sung repeatedly on the previous video of yours and it seemed original but still really professionally done. Original back ground music is another niche that has so much potential, CZcams is so very very strict, right?!#@* Opinion coming: Oh I feel sometime with zombies blues and purples make a death and rotting impression and when tied together with a light pink creates a swollen infected look too! Sorry it just had to be said! I like the use of your microwave turn table motors too.I am into arduino, raspberry pi, esp32 micro-processors, and most recently have immersed myself into becoming really good with 3D design because I want to get more into designs for plugs for silicone props... i do not have any examples yet, because I have never had the need to create anything, YET? Keep up the good work!

Thank you Brian! Just discovered your videos and am learning so much! Quick question; how tall have you gone with the pvc or pex pipe? I want to make a prop of a moon with a flying witch around it. I got the idea from another youtuber but he used metal pipe with reindeer motor. Thanks again and keep those videos coming 😂

I think the quick unexpected movements create more reaction from the audience and gets the adrenalin flowing more ... (involvement). Arms and hands reaching out towards me is terrifying , ugh oh yes the eye dangling is a must! I have no clue what happens to the eye if it gets smashed does it just explode, my brain can tell me the eye that has been torn out prolly looks like what you made, right? Realistic results are the scariest!

Uao que zobie

Can you just use pvc for all of it instead of the red n blue plastic things ?

The motors seem to survive just wondering how long if they get stopped w the screws over and over if itll burn em out

Well, i had planned to get some sleep tonight

I think you would find a 3d printer really handy for this type of thing. I was very sceptical of their usefulness myself for a long time suspecting I would spend far longer trying to get a print to actually work than just making it myself but now I have one I would hate to be without it, you can usually find adaptors like this ready designed for download but once you get the hang of the software (which is I must took me a while) to design your own you can just draw what you want and 30mins later its ready for you to use 🙂

The 48-58 rpm actually did 59 I counted it lol

I don’t want to bust your balls but it seems like while you were heat-molding the tube, you might just heat-mold your own adapter too? Here’s where you school me though. I’ve seen that motor “chassis”, but I don’t know what it is. I think “clock motor” when I see it, because I have seen it, but was like 1RPM and even less, as I recall.

You need a 3D printer! lol

I needed this 5 months ago for my sister's cat feeder project..

Now your turning heads😅

This is one of the best spinning skull channels I found this week.

Ah yes spinning skulls

They say idle hands are the Devil's workshop, but you seem to keep pretty busy. As always, excellent and helpful work!

This visual helps a lot when deciding between speeds. Thank you.

Thank you, it worked fine - czcams.com/users/shorts8vptG_u7jQo

Great walkthrough! would you please share a link to the power supply? thanks

Super helpful video. Thank you for explaining this.

Used the link but they didn’t reverse and went really slow despite being the same. Will try another brand and see

Thanks for the code!

Brian, Do you have the code for this project? Thanks

It looks and sounds like you're suggesting putting an extra voltage source (like the batteries or a DC power adapter) in parallel a with the power output of the Arduino. That would be a bad arrangement that'll likely shorten the life of your Arduino board and the batteries. You said it provides 8 volts, which would be true if you connected the power supplies in series. But that might not solve your problem and it's still possibly going to overtax the voltage regulator on the Uno board. Most hobby servos are designed to work at approximately 6V. Many list specs for running them at 4.8V and 6V. If you don't have enough power, then you probably aren't able to source enough current and/or the servo is too small for the job. A typical hobby servo might draw something on the order of 100 mA on average, but it can peak above 1 A when driven under load. The +5V output pin on the Arduino can provide a limited amount of current. Details vary by board, and some clones use different power management designs that are fine for general use but don't meet the specs of the official boards. You can probably power a single, lightly loaded servo from the Arduino's +5V output. (Even if you can, there can still be reasons to consider using a more capable power supply.) If you want to drive a larger servo, a servo that's most produce a lot of torque, or more than one servo (at a time), you're going to need more current. A better solution would be to power the servo directly from your 6V power adapter. Connect the power and ground wires from the servo directly to the positive and negative outputs of the power adapter. Connect the signal wire to the GPIO pin on the Arduino. If you power the Arduino from a separate supply (like the USB or a second power adapter), then you **must** connect the 6V ground (negative) to the Arduino's ground. The servo is going to compare the signal voltage to the ground from its power supply, so you need both grounds to be at the same potential. If you want to power the Arduino from the same 6V supply, you'll need a tee that gives your power supply two outputs in parallel. In that case, keep in mind that the total current rating of the supply must exceed the current needed by the servo plus the current needed by the Arduino. (Powering an Uno from a 6V supply will usually work, though it's recommended to use at least 7 volts.)

Thanks for your pro-human choice of terminology. It was refreshing to hear "really small" drill bit instead of "1.25 mili-vanilimeters." By keeping the minutia out of the way it was easier to focus on the goal.

Yes

Obviously the dangling eyeball better conveys the motion, but everything ultimately depends on the lighting. For example, if you have monochromatic lighting, certain colors are going to pop. Same with UV. The dangling eyeball might work better on a prop that sways, like a shambling zombie, so that it's more of a pendulum. You probably have enough motion going on with this prop that any mask is fine.

Is there a way to get it to work with a remote control? I’m trying to get something to turn but only a little bit on command

Well done. Effective use of a single motor. Terror on a budget. I like it.

Cool!!!

Wow! It worked well enough to move it. What type of motor you using to blow a breaker???!! Must be big enough to move a real corpse.

cool, did your motor work properly, because i bought one and it my blew my breaker lol 😆

Nice video. We have a lot in common :-)

Not sure it's terrifying. It looks like an epileptic episode.

Troubleshooting video for common issues with Jawduino czcams.com/video/oxO5CdacYjQ/video.htmlsi=MIH8VNoYRAal0TGj

U should be a vendor at transworld

Neat, looks great!

Very cool. You lucked out with the length of the rod. If you do another project like this and fail to get the right movement, try it with a turnbuckle. You can "tune" it to the length that gives you the right animation, and then substitute it for a better linkage in the final version. Saves you from having drill a dozen holes in search of the elusive sweet spot. Another trick I like is the use of springs. There's this genius guy in England named Paul Jones who seemingly just makes things up as he goes, and it's always amazing. He has put springs into several of his animatronics, and it often gives the character an organic feel instead of the clockwork sorts of motion we usually end up with using rigid mechanical parts. Search "DIY Animated slapping skeleton rough guide on how to make(Slappy)" to find one of his tutorials, and I'm sure you'll be hooked.

As requested, here are a few suggestions for you and anyone embarking on this sort of project: -Drill press table attachment. Makes it easy to set up repeatable holes because there's an adjustable fence with a stop block on it so the tubing ends up in the same position every time. WEN makes one for $40, or look around at the dozens (hundreds?) of CZcams tutorials on building your own. -Chop saw. (Unless I missed it, you didn't say/show what you used, so adding this here.) It's useful if you're cutting anything stronger than aluminum. A miter saw will cut aluminum. -Miter saw workbench. I made my own so that the height of the middle section (i.e., where the tool sits) can be adjusted. That means I can drop in other tools like the drill press (or router table, band saw, etc.). The advantage is you can have the work piece resting on the tabletop rather than clamping it and having it hanging in the air. -Linkage software. It's free; just search for "rectorsquid" and you'll find it. Saves a lot of guesswork (or prototyping and experimenting in the real world), and it's just plain fun to play around with. For example, you can make a scissor mech that curls as it extends, almost like a scorpion's tail. How? Try offsetting the center bolt holes. Lots of fun applications and comes with models to edit so you aren't starting from scratch. -To keep costs down, buy packs of 100 of anything standard, and the per-unit cost drops to the same as that of 3x 4-packs. If you're handy, you'll the same parts again on other projects. I use 1/4"-20 bolts for loads of things (e.g., they fit in T-tracks, so they're always going to have applications for wood-working jigs). I also invested in wingnuts so I can prototype faster (i.e., throw it together, test it, then disassemble and cannibalize for the final build). If you just use one or two popular sizes of bolts, then you can get all the things associated with just that size: lock nuts, washers of several diameters, threaded knobs (e.g., for woodworking hold-downs), threaded inserts, etc. -Look for a metal supply shop nearby. They charge far less than big-box stores, and often they have deals on shorter lengths that are leftovers (i.e., scraps) from custom orders. That may even save you from making a few cuts. Great tutorial! Excellent builds. Looking forward to more.

The motor will automatically reverse direction? I want to upgrade my heavy metal snowman band so it looks like they're head banging. If they do this would be perfect!!!

Nice.

Promo_SM 😋

Just what i needed

Thank you so much for this tutorial. I was able to complete my jawduino with this great video. The only issue I have been having is how to configure the audio. I am currently using an mp3 player connected to the audio jack that seems to work, except that I can figure out how to also play the audio on a speaker. I tried using an audio splitter, but that isn't working. What do you recommend?

niiiice😊