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What setup u runing on the nitrous

Idk why it sounds like youre about to cry the entire video. I noticed it especially when you started with the oil burning lmao. Strange

E85 is significant when you’re looking for efficiency instead of hp gains. When I made the switch (all motor) my temps were significantly reduced. On pump gas, I’d see anywhere from 204-210 engine temps. Made the switch never saw 200s ever again. 180-195 temps

Another biiiig thing is that the base RSX has the type S oil pump already. If you want to swap heads and then boost, or just straight boost the base model then it's "safer" to do so. The base RSX bottom end is slept on a lot.

this swap mainly works smoothly for type s models only I think… base models have to swap the hubs and everything to type s or others because of the size difference. even then i’m pretty sure this swap still doesn’t work straight up like this and I think you need a bracket to adapt from the stock holes to a new spot for the larger caliper.

I have an 8th gen k20z3 will it still be the same

So I know this sounds like it’s a great upgrade but in reality you’re much better off getting slotted rotors and some better brake pads. This “upgrade” increases the pad to rotor contact point which the abs will not be able to adjust for and it can actually make braking worse. On r/Acura_RSX there’s someone who explains it much better than I

Always risky buying old cars like from sellers who rice them out. Chances are they use and abuse them and aren't going to be honest with you on things.

Rsxxx

So do u have multiple rsxs?

It does when you buy a 2013 STI SE

I went from Stage 1+ to a Dynotune with some couple mods done (DP/EBCS/EBCS/TMIC/Fuel Pump/Intake) + Reliability mods. It honestly made a night and day difference with how the car drove it feels a lot smoother and easier to drive.

I have a 2021 STI, I have no oiling issues, not topped once yet between oil changes. Boost is at 18.2 on stock. Mods done are for most part reliability, and a few are what ever mods - F1 brake light, GS pitch stop mount, Perrin brake cylinder brace, IAG AOS, IAG Oil pan/baffle/PU, Killer B thermo housing, Doms 4th Cyl coolant line, Mishi Radiator, GS radiator hoses. Just ordered the GS EBCS and cover Ill put it on in about a month and get an actual road tune done by a pro rather than doing OTS at least its for the car specific.

Mine was so difficult to get off XD

quite interesting, I didn't know much about e85 personally, especially in a country where people run NA cars mainly

Those stage 1 maps are to refine the driving experience on the STi. There are no power gains but you change the rev hang and the drivability in lower gears.

are you running k tuner or hondata ?

was gonna get a type s with 187k for 4k. Sometimes I wonder if I fucked up by not getting it

Don't forget the type s brackets and to reuse thr base brake lines as type s are short

“Shot in Mexico” 😂 sick build bro 🔥

dont get stage 1 and expect big results it is worth buying stage one for the accessport and cold air if you plan on going stage 2+ later on.

Nah you didn’t get scammed you get what you paid for ganna have issues like this being how old it is and it’s Honda lol was wondering how you got it cheap then saw it was a base model automatic so makes sense 😂

Please wash the car on your videos.

I ran Cobb tunes (stage2) for years and I'm my experience they had no effect on engine health, they did provide an exceptional improvement over stock in driving experience. For oil consumption I highly recommend an air oil separator or catch can, as oil blow-by is a common issue with these and it can give you all kinds of other problems down the road. Consider it #1 on my list for reliability mods.

My HIGH SCORE psi is currently 23.1 for my stock tune... I keep trying to beat it but I can't. LOL. Don't even know how I hit 23 psi.

No way borla is the most expensive dude.

Caliper brackets need to be type s as well?

Dc5

Is no a eg is a ej

Silver was perfect

I have a 21 wrx and I made 22 psi boost bone stock

Got my 05 Type-S almost a year ago and I got lucky with it. Needs some cosmetic work but it runs great with 44k miles now and when I purchased the car it only had 32k miles.

i have a 2016 wrx premium and i am new to cars. my car feels like it has a powerband and it hesitates when im around 4k rpm and once it gets to abt 5k rpm it flys. how to i fix this? I am running stage 2 frn 91oct

I had a stage 3 and 4 before, seemed normal to me lol

So what it’s not the fastest! As long as it’s fun I want one

rsx

THIS PRODUCT WORKS!!! Whoever is saying this doesn't work probably drives a 1989 honda Civic

Type S

lol 😂 this guy was complaining about a base Automatic!!! Lmao 🤣

lol 😂 this guy was complaining about a base Automatic!!! Lmao 🤣

Did the same to my base. I think it’s worth it. Also looks better than the tiny base brake rotors

Crashed my type s🥲 bought a base cuz it was cheap and threw my type s swap in it😈 also I love the base interior much more. Just needs the Bose audio 😭

Is called take your time 😂🤣

bro if you didn't install the cluch your self you never really know but when your racing it's the name of the game money money money get use to it ,,....good luck buddy

Bleeding the brakes?

I wound up buying a 96 integra with a b18b1 and a five speed. Was cheaper than either rsx, and cheaper to modify. Piecing together a turbo setup and will hopefully have a fun, reliable daily.

Never had these problems with my Rsx since I bought it 3 years ago

Type S is overall a better vehicle, lets start by the chassis, the body however is the same, BUT its reinforced from factory with lighter weighing parts from factory based on alloy used on manufactured parts, also its body rigidity increased overall abt 15% due to the type S due to application of reinforcements in key areas, also the Type S also has more mounting points for bracing. Moving on to suspension im not 100% sure but and the Type S sits a little lower than the base so suspension springs could be more advanced than those of a base. Also Type S does have thicker sway bars, and front strut mount. So your performance in handling will be slightly better for reducing the body roll of the car. Now for powerplants these cars used 4 types of k20s, but i wont get into detail for the type R as its not appropriate to cover what its contents are you can do that research. But lets start with the base. k20a3, obv a 2.0 na k series that also comes in a 04 civic si if i remember correctly but overall i believe is exactly alike in tuning etc... the 160hp is def nothing to be upset about i mean your practically in an si civic but it definitely doesn't compare to the k20a2 which is the 02-04 type S have, this block can handle more due to its designed and alloy used on the block so ppl tend to buy this model in specific for tuning they have a good 200bhp which is very exceptional for this chassis. however this changes with the 05-06 type S where they produce 210hp from its k20z1 block, this block uses type R cams so they can rev a bit higher than the other type S and much higher than the k20a3 which hits 7200 rpms vs 8560 rpms. big difference but still the k20a2 is more "tunable" if you will. I wouldnt say that the base isnt a bad car but certainly not to be compared to with the type s its just outmatched completely and an overall nicer quality produced vehicle. if you want a MORE casual daily def go for a k20a3 model that comes in both pre face lift 02-04 and face lift 05-06 model of the rsx base trim they do come with an auto transmission after all. but the type S is more superior all in all. Oh forgot to mention trans mission is meh in the type S not the greatest, the 02-04 type s has a lower final drive from the type s which has a higher final drive which is better & also base comes with a 5mt so its nice to have that extra gear in a type S. NOW for budgeting the Type S is being taxxed asf rn so if u want an rsx no shame in a base model to have, but for tracking unfortunately im disagreeing with u here lol but type S is gonna be the better option obv, i understand theyre more sought after so theyre more 'rare' but thats the price of having the spec you want, def dont get scammed tho i will say that.

That’s weird lol, you gotta start putting that pedal to the floor bc I’ve gotten 22.7 peak boast on my 2018 wrx bone stock, boost is only at peak for a split second then drops back down before holding a stead psi tho probably around 13-15

Hey wassup bro what’s the part # for the bracket you used, I got the same speakers which is crazy and never got to installing them due to that !