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The adjustment screw from the D key to the F resonance rocker key, can be tightened so that the D key doesn't come up as far. The F resonance will also raise less, but getting the middle E in tune is most important. You can lower the D key height quite a bit this way, until the E gets too stuffy in either octave, and then it's a bit too far. If that doesn't do enough, and you're adept at taking keys off, you can fill the tone hole a bit with nail polish or wax. The upper part (opening) of the hole effects the octave E with little effect on the lower octave. Put a little nail polish just below the rim of the hole, on the south (bell side) only, but don't fill in very deeply, just nearest the opening. You can get the middle E as low as you like, without making low E go flat. This is true of any of those right hand octave notes also, D,F#,G; they tend to feel sharper over time, as the bore changes. It may take as many as 2 or 3 layers of nail polish, and may require taking the oboe apart 2 or 3 times, before you're satisfied. Good luck.

@@larrymueller4698 Thank you so much! I will try it.

Hi, it depends somewhat on the make of oboe, but generally something about 2.5 mm across. It should be a pretty good fit, especially in thickness, so it doesn't noticeably damage the screw slot. I'll regrind them a bit if necessary. If you do a lot of work, you'll appreciate something a bit longer, with a larger handle. Your hands will thank you over time. Leave the smaller ones for in the case, on the gig.

Hi, I was probably focused on the content, using the screwdriver as a pointer, and yes, shouldn't have tapped on the keys like that. After many years of using this oboe, I've worn some plating off with my fingers, but the keys don't look noticeably scratched.

Hi, I show how that’s done on my Facebook page, Mueller Oboe Repair. I’m retired now, but if you’re in the US, Meridian Winds in Michigan does very good work at a good price. You can find them online. It may not be financially worth doing on a basic model oboe.

@@larrymueller4698 Thanks.

It's been two years, I hope you got it out! I imagine every oboist has done this at least once. Get a swab that has a string on the back end so you can pull it back out! Otherwise I used a shish kabob skewer to poke it back out. The string had a knot in it that caused it to get stuck. I think it happened within my first two weeks of playing, but in the 15 years since it's not happened again. I very neatly fold my swab up and wrap the string around it like tying a reed. It keeps it from getting tangled 🙂. I hope you're still playing and doing well with it!

Thanks! Depends on the speakers, I'm sure. It sounds really buzzy here!

@@cynthiamueller675 Hi Cynthia, I had a question - is this Larry Meuller located in San Antonio, and if he is, is he still doing repads for other woodwinds as well?

I was going to throw it out the window, but the customer was watching. : )

Hi, it could be a few things; the key got bent, the pad is too thick, or the adjustment screw over the octave key could use backing out. There could also be too thick of a key cork besides the pad itself, under the thumb lever, or around the adjustment screw.

Hi Chris. I’ve been known to do that too.

Muellerwoodwinds@charter.net

Nope. Haven't heard that one.