Video

gracias!

yeah.. I was into Marble Runs for a while. grin

I'm not sure what you are asking. Port 80 is open on a server. A client sends a packet to port 80 on a server to get the web page. If the server closes port 80, the client can't reach the web page. A client does not "have" a port 80. They are reserved for web server.

This means all reserved ports can't controled on client pc

@@ahmedabdelaziz7375 No.. you've missed the concept. Reserved ports are published on a list. They are used by servers. Because they are on a list, all clients know what ports to send their packets to for a particular service. So if I want to connect to an FTP service, I know to send it to a proper service, but to specify port 21, the well-known port for FTP. Clients cannot open/close ports on other machines. Let's say you have a Windows computer and you want to enable the TELNET service on it on port 23.. this allows a remote computer to connect to your computer and access. a command line. You now have port 23 "open" and you are listening on that port.. because you are now a Telnet Server. Only you.. the server can close port 23, shutting down the telnet service. A remote computer cannot do that.

@davecrabbe4579 ok thanks sir, i got the point

Glad it helped.. still baffles me why they don't implement a color change by layer height..

Either key can be used to encrypt. But the *OTHER* key must be used to decrypt. Which key is used to encrypt depends on the application (digital signatures, encryption certs, etc). However, the private key is *ONLY* known to the person issued. It must never be distributed.

yeah.. that's why I didn't get hired as a news anchor

Glad you enjoyed it!

Because it's not efficient. Mine typically won't go under 45% RH, I live in a high humidity area (>65%)

the problem I had was the connection to the temp/humidity sensor that was located under the bottom heating plate.. It was just too unreliable and I thought I fixed it later, but couldn't get it working and just thru it out and bought a PrintDry 3 which is great.. Could have been a broken wire, a really crapy small connector, or the sensor itself. But this is a huge point of failure in these units. Sunlu is likely one of the worst companies for support there is.. You can see that from reports on Web from people buying filaments and any other Sunlu products. Nice product when it works.. but zero support. Good luck with it. I don't think it actually needs a fan.. mine worked well because it was not really sealed.

Basically a user creates a PKI key pair. A public and private key. The public key can be sent to anyone.. and for large companies, their public keys may be included in an operating system. If I want to "sign" a document, I can encrypt, either a part of the document, or the whole document with my private key and send it to you. I can put my public key on Facebook, if I want. Anyone can get my public key. When you get the document that I sent, you try to decrypt it with my public key.. If you can, then you know I sent it. No one else can encrypt the document in a manner that allows you to use my public key to decrypt.

@@davecrabbe4579 so you encrypt the document itself, not a digest of it, or generate a hash and encrypt it (maybe combined with the other two options for integrity check?)

No.. I eventually threw out my unit after several attempts to fix. Looking at customer satisfaction reports for Sunlu, it appears they have one of the poorest customer support records that I have seen. Too bad because their basic driers work really well, when they work.

You are right.. I didn't use the correct term there.. Hash is a 1-way encryption.. It is not a hash that is placed in the cert, but cipherText that is encrypted with the private key of the CA(ICA) and which can be decrypted with the public key of the CA or ICA.

gotcha, thanks! Great video/pedagogy.@@davecrabbe4579

There are lots of videos on YT on making OTTODIY. Look on the PRINTABLES.COM and search for OttoDIY.

@@davecrabbe4579 thank you soo much sir

Thanks.. older video, but its all built on the same basic concept, so far.

I had to make the body taller.. but I used the same parts for legs/head.. I did remix the feet so there is an O-Ring underneath. Makes the feet rotation more consistent. The feet could be used on the original Ninja

; )

If you look on my Printables remix site you'll see a CODE ZIP file. In the zip is a PDF explaining how to make the Ninja move and a list of what pins I used for all parts.

ok. Gracias y saludos.@@davecrabbe4579

really weird, Cura. I went on their forums and it was almost blasphemy trying to get color change by layer height.. Something about that is a post-processing issue. They didn't seem likely to add that feature, even though it is something we use all the time in Prusa and Bambu slicer.

@@davecrabbe4579 in this case, your tip worked great for me. I had a model that is 3mm in height, starts in White, switches to Black at the 1mm mark [the layer at about that spot], then prints for 1mm before switching back to White for the remaining 1mm. A pretty simple 2-color "sandwich" type of print that looks pretty cool (it's a double-sided "coin" type of model). Using your idea, I was able to create a 1mm thick "support blocker" that was the same width/depth as the model, and intersect it at the 1mm Z height. Setting the blocker to nozzle #2 (which I had assigned to a black PLA) worked exactly the way I wanted; the print started with nozzle #1 (white PLA), switch to nozzle #2 at the 1mm mark, then switched back to nozzle #1 at the 2mm mark. Sure, it's a little janky but still much better than having to actually break the model into multiple pieces and recombine them in the slicer [with nozzle assignments for each piece]. Thanks again.

Glad that suggestion helped.. Exactly the type of thing I was doing. @@KenRossPhotography

water soluble supports are very hygroscopic.. if you have over 50% humidity, you should put it in a dry box.. You can also use PLA as supports for PETG and vice versa.. as a substitute for actual water soluble supports.. I haven't used but works well for external supports.. If you need support inside the model, then water soluble might be necessary. If you use a Prusa based slicer then color change by layer is much, much easier.. Cura has some philosophical objection to the way Prusa does it.. but it is waaayyy more straight forward.

@davecrabbe4579 OK, thank you for the tips! Hypothetically, if you were handed a list of every slicer software you could think of, what'd be your pick if you knew thre rest would be deleted, and you could only use the one you picked? Price is not a factor. Everything on the list is free.

It's really the one you learn. I've not used Cura much, but it is the grandfather of most of them. I like the ease of use of Prusa Slicer and I've really only learned that software. I've used Bambu's derivative a bit and it is a bit nicer if you have a Bambu printer. @@chrism1130

OK thanks Dave! So far I've only used cura and only on our ender 5 plus. I really like it. The Modix is open source for slicers. Ill start and dial in the Modix with cura since I know it. The Modix budget I requested included Extra funds for getting into paid slicers. I'm still in the process of getting the Modix 180x assembled. I'm hoping to power it up and start the calibration process next week. It's been a really fun project. The print volume is 23.6" x 23.6" x 70.6". Thanks so much for the tips and wisdom! And for reading my rambling giddy posts. Nobody at work has experience in the printer world aside from me. It's fun to get to talk and share with fellow enthusiasts like yourself. You'll probably be hearing from me in the future!

Clone nano v3 with its shield from Aliexpress. Likely pics in the Printables link