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*0,508mm in diameter

Little drill bits like that I've found it doesn't matter if they're sharpened "right". Just so long as they're sharp they'll drill. So what I do is just point them up. I know it isn't right, but it works. I've even drilled through steel after just pointing them up. I don't run them slow either. My micro press doesn't do slow. I think it's 3 speeds, 3,000, 5,000 and 8,000? I just leave it in the middle all the time. So 5K RPM.

Before CNC, it would have just been made with a pattern machine.

Great video. Most micro drill bits I end up using in a pin vice chuck and hand drilling. I once managed to sharpen a tiny drill bit by hand using a lapping stone. Luck more than skill, methinks!

Cannot believe I just watched a craftsman sharpen a #76 drill bit! WOW! I use these tiny bits down to the #80 size, and buy them in packs of 12. The brand is Gyros, sold on Amazon, and they’re available in Carbon Steel or High Speed Steel. I use stricter the HSS ones, and they run just under $13 for a tube containing 12 of the same size. Great video Sir!

I usually buy wire size bits in lots of ten. And that is because I use them to drill circuit boards for feed through components. I even made a drill index plate and LAZERed it for each size hole. Then I take any freed through component lead and see what size bit I need to that component. Works really well for my usage... However, I would never try to sharpen such size bits. Too iffy to do that, so I just buy new ones as needed...pretty cheap to buy them. But interesting video anyway. Thumbs Up!

0.5 mm does not seam that impressive :d

I have always been impressed with these micro drill bits. Like you I am awed by how they are made.

I have iPhone and i use magnifier app and you can also use flashlight lens that has broadening and zooming on your camera or typical magnifying glass lmao😂 and with a steady hand you can actually see something like that .0200” drill bit as a 11/16” drill bit. I use a drimell tool with a diamond disc for my small carbide twist drills from 1/8” down to micro drills i purchase from harbor freight I believe smallest is around 10 thou.

I was hoping to see how you would grind the secondary relief on that drill bit and the web thinning :D Just kidding, thanks for the amazing knowledge you're sharing for us!

excellent! Interesting and enjoyable. Thanks for sharing

I would suggest to add text overlays to your video, translating the imperial measurements you are talking about in your video to metric. easy to do in the edit, and it helps you gaining views from the rest of the world who has no idea what a 1/16-1/32 is going to look like

Wow. I could not imagine sharpening anything so tiny.

HOW OLD YOU GOOD IDIA.. BEST LIVING☺

Cool, I'll have to have a go myself now. At about what size would you start thinking about setting up a drill grinding attachment? Thanks for the vid. Cheers

Word on the street is that tiny carbide tooling is ground with lasers. I am willing to guess it's the same with HSS. I can't imagine the bit holding up to some grinding wheel to get those flutes ground . But then again, I've been very wrong before. That being said, if you got more of these needles to sharpen, maybe rig one of them soldering microscopes.

Great Video! I've been looking for videos about end mill sharpening and yours are always great! I'd love to see some test cuts after the sharpening!

Smithy has a couple of options for motors, maybe you got unlucky and got a weak version. I would contact smithy support and see which motor you have, and if there is an easy upgrade. As I have the same machine, I never really managed to stall the motor, other than I.e. cutoff blade getting stuck

I have the same machine... I have adopted the Joe Pie method, putting the tool upside down, and threading away from the head stock.... waaaaaayyyyy less stressful. (I also have a solid tool post, so I just do simple straight in threading)

Self defence and self defence of your property is illegal ?. Wow, nearly as bad as here in the UK. Accuracy on these at close range is brilliant, have loads of damaged bolts to prove it as well.

I am with you sir. I am building mine and my welding sucks. Although getting the heck of it.

Awesome work Andy ! This was a learning experience for us all !! Great filming , you do know your trade !

It’s good to know how to make sharp cutters, next best is knowing the guy who knows 😂

Another excellent video! Enjoyable, and I learned.. I wondered how these got sharpened.. thanks for sharing

Your grouping from the standing unsupported position is excellent

This reminds me of when I was a kid working with my granddad THANKYOU so much

good thing you share when things goes wrong, because there's quite a bit to be learned from recovering from those. I have a small lathe and have had the same (weakness on low rpm) problem. I could not finish the thread at all, no matter how small of a cut I was trying.

awesome work 👍

Question: What SFM do you think you were using? I just ground some carbide endmills yesterday on my HARIG @ 3450 RPM. I never considered checking the wheel diameter to see how much I lost......

Nice job!

Nicely done.. I was wondering what the random clunk was as you were grinding, then I saw the chunk missing from the diamond wheel. :) Really enjoying your T&C grinder videos! Thanks for taking the time to share this with us..

Yummmmmmmmm................................I'll do a copy, sort of. Davo from Australia Luv to you both

Nice Job! Get a 5" CBN Cup Wheel at about 150 Grit and it would last a lomg time.

I’d be interested to see data related to thread/fastener strength with and without relief grooves. The older, more skilled folks I’ve worked with have preferred no relief but imo it’s asking for trouble-> with cnc it’s a non issue as retract motion in X will always be identical and synchronized, but manually seems to be asking for trouble. Some passes you’ll retract a tad early, some passes a tad late. Those irregular loads on what are usually the more delicate tools (smallest tnr) just seem to tempt fate for a broken tool on a penultimate finish pass. Case in point @28:45, albeit with extenuating circumstances. Question: on I.D. threads do you go no relief? Ive never seen anyone not cut a relief on a bore thread, but there’s a first time for everything. Incidentally, as others have suggested, inside out threading, from headstock to tailstock, run at much faster rpm means higher surface speed which means lower loads, as higher surface speeds have a greater plasticising effect on workpiece material, and carbide is not as tough as HSS, so more likely to fracture at low rpm / bottom of machine useability envelope conditions which is when things tend to go sideways, at least for me. Consider giving it a shot and trying the reverse method and see if an old dog can learn a new trick, you might like the results.

You sure know what you are doing, but that machine doesn't want to do what it should be doing. Perhaps with that machine you need to thread from left to right at those settings, or take lighter cuts.. Thanks for sharing, I enjoy your videos, and I learn!

From an absolute nobody, I've never touched a machine my whole life, and it's probably hundreds of reasons to not do it or even not possible. But is it not possible to have the threading ending outside the stock? What I mean is, start the threading on the tricky part where you "swoop out" and let the thread end in empty air outside the stock. That would remove most of the muscle memory magic. I also guess this means flipping the insert upside down and running in reverse. Maybe that is a reason to not do it that way? "Swooping in" at a known zero mark might not be a thing.. I'm just thinking out loud at this point. Thanks for the great video!👍🏼 Sorry in advance!

I think that machine is not heavy enough to cut an 8 thread.

There may be an error when using a Papago translator. First of all, thank you for the good information. I'm a 29-year-old man who marches end mill and drill in Korea. Since I'm a beginner, I think there is a formula for calculating the tip angle according to RPM, but I even watched an overseas video while looking for it. It's a question that has nothing to do with the video, but after re-marinating the drill, the lifespan of the drill has been reduced. In this case, should the tip angle be reduced or raised? Is there a formula?

Great info again, thanks! Newbie question, what’s your preferred method for getting the center height. My TOS tool and cutter grinder has a wheel head that can be raised and lowered so not a fixed height so I’m not sure a center height gauge is the right tool for the job in my case.. Any thoughts? Thanks from Scotland!

A class machine and a very skilled user. Great video.

I just got this exact same machine a couple days ago. I am new to welding and I'm fortunate to get a machine this nice for my first - but so far I am really loving it. I have only mig welded with it so far and welds look better than I would have expected. Glad I went with this unit.

Harbor freight sells the exact same set for $80US. I love them and beat the heck out of them. I’d probably sharpen them if I had the sweet grinder you have, though! Thanks for the informative videos! Keep them coming!

Nice, I need one!!!

Master, thank you for your work. Wish You talk a lot, save the listener's time and money. The Internet is a luxury for many

Christmas in July! Merry Chirstmas, man!

congrats!

Love your sharpening videos, thanks so much.

Nothin but NICE!

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain how to use a cutter grinder as very few do I am learning so much your knowledge is amazing Thank you rgds nick

Good morning I really like your content. I have a Cincinnati number two cutter grinder with a lot of attachments. I was wondering if you could go through your attachments and show each one how they work that would Great thank you and I enjoy your content very much. I’ve learned a lot already.