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@@SlipperyPapi thanks! Also awesome username 😂😂😂

All EA888.3 1.8L and 2.0L engines it should be applicable. This is done on the MK8 PCV valve. Your original valve (which should be an AH revision) already breathes on the cam cover. If there's no intention of doing track stuff then just replacing with an AP revision PCV valve (genuine VW part from a dealer) is probably the easiest/cheapest way to go. If you decide to go the MK8 PCV route, IMO the full retrofit is the only right way to do it and being a 2016 I'd probably guess you want to ventilate the valve as covered in this video. This is based on basic retrofit not working out on a 2016 1.8 Golf, it smoked and owner took it off and just put an AP valve on and has been happy since. I suspect ventilating the MK8 valve is necessary, though there's really little benefit in doing that from a crankcase pressure perspective - the full retrofit w/ Venturi is really needed to fix that fundamental flaw with the MK7 system. Info on parts needed for the MK8 PCV retrofit: www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv

Yeah, I wasn't really happy with this video audio-wise... I bought a dedicated phone for doing this with and went through multiple mics while simultaneously also trying to learn some new editing software. Going to try and have it all sorted out for next time.

Honestly it could be either one, though I'd be more inclined to bet on valve seals given the symptoms... BUT I've had several people reach out and tell me that either new PCV valves or MK8 retrofit sorted out the same symptoms which I would normally not expect personally. A brand new BK PCV valve is actually only ~$50 from the dealer: vw.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-engine-crankcase-vent-valve-6k103495bk That price is cheaper than shop labor for diagnosis... so realistically I'd put the valve on and if it stops the smoking, great... if not, at least you got a new valve to rule out as the issue, and you have a pretty good idea of what it really needs at that point. I'm not generally a fan of using the parts cannon to diagnose, but sometimes it makes financial sense when the cost to replace something is so low and relatively easy that it comes in below what an hour of shop diagnostic time would be.

@@datadrivenmqb Thank you so much for responding! I will go ahead and purchase that PCV valve and give it a go. If it is my valve seals what would be a fair price to get it fixed and is it something I should fix quickly? Your help is much appreciated!

Best place is probably the Facebook page, otherwise shoot an email to datadrivenmqb@gmail.com.

@@bleed347 yeah on a 2019 I wouldn't expect issues without the modification. I've had zero issues with the unmodified valve on my own car with tons of track and autocross time on it. Be mindful of how you route an inline can. You want to keep the venturi to PCV hose as short as possible. Putting a can between the valve and the Tiguan hose will result in pulling a ridiculous vacuum on the can, delaying closing the diaphragm. Still almost for sure better than an OEM valve but I have my can routed the way it is for a very specific reason.

Just posted a video about it today: czcams.com/video/d75FJLQ0nU0/video.htmlsi=Gxw3kLKTSOLjf0AI

Thx

Thanks! Aftermarket TIPs and leaking PCV hoses could cause a bit of extra pressure on the crankcase (or at least inadequate vacuum to keep the diaphragm closed) but isn't going to really do anything beyond maybe accelerate oil leaks. It isn't going to cause direct mechanical damage or anything like that.

@@datadrivenmqb gotcha. Would a failing PCV that’s been overlooked lead to mechanical issues you think?

@@OHNOES131 pretty unlikely. It's just going to push oil out of seals or cause it to burn oil. Assuming oil level is checked and not run low it's not going to do direct physical damage.

@@datadrivenmqb yeah oil level has been fine since getting changed 5k ago. Gonna have to keep digging some more but thanks for the reply! My next thing is cam adjuster magnets and the valve behind them 🤞🏻

I'm not familiar with that engine - if it's an EA888.2 then I don't think any of this will really apply/be possible as far as the MK8 PCV retrofit goes.

I actually covered it pretty in-depth here at the 15:47 time stamp: czcams.com/video/gnPvIfmGybk/video.html I can't say that I noticed any difference in sound, and definitely didn't notice any difference in spool on the IS20. In my opinion probably not worth the money. This is a long video, but the TIPs have a big effect on the MK7 PCV effectiveness: czcams.com/video/Pjcpla__riY/video.html

It really wasn't bad overall all day - this last session of the day I was late getting to grid so was one of the last ones out IIRC. The Session 2 video was probably much more representative of what it was like: czcams.com/video/HvE8tNzv-qM/video.html

@@KamilK3 all the notes from the video are jotted down here for reference: www.datadrivenmqb.com/suspension/rideheight Also thanks!

@@larsolsen8393 nice! I know @karstgeo72 has been on the full retrofit for quite a while on his IS38 wagon without issues.

@@JoediyLab it's using Simos Tools. www.datadrivenmqb.com/diy-data/st-getting-started If you're on FB, check out the Simos Tools Users group.

I would replace the strut bearing simply because it's a huge pain of a job to have to re-do. Use OEM parts only. I don't reuse any of the factory torque to yield hardware, I replace every time. The 034 upper mounts will not require new strut top bolts (3 per side) since the mounts come with shorter ones needed for the different design. I have a suspension hardware checklist in the "Resources" section of my website you might find useful: www.datadrivenmqb.com/resources It's just a general guideline I use for myself, but figured I'd share the spreadsheet for others to download/use/modify for themselves as they see fit. Use at your own risk, verify part numbers for your specific car, etc. etc. Good luck with the install!

@@datadrivenmqb Thanks! Really appreciate the info you shared. It's very helpful for people who want to mod mqb cars for the track.

@@braxtonrosas7338 awesome, thanks for the feedback!

If it were a stock car then I'd say keep the factory PCV unless/until problems occur. But based on my research, aftermarket turbo inlet pipes essentially break the factory PCV's ability to function - in which case the MK8 full retrofit is indeed beneficial as it provides a vacuum source that aftermarket TIPs lack. Check out this video for more info on that: czcams.com/video/Pjcpla__riY/video.html Just putting the MK8 valve on without the 034 TMD/Venturi is essentially a lateral move and doesn't have any major benefits (aside from the ability to eventually add the additional parts to function correctly). FWIW I ran the VIN of a random 2019 Tiguan, it has the same PCV valve as my 19 GTI had from the factory (BK revision) so I wouldn't expect any issues performing the retrofit.

@@datadrivenmqb Thanks for the quick reply! Based on several of your videos on the subject I has assumed that even if it didn’t help, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to do the update. I have watched the video you linked and I’m hoping you can clarify something. My first thought was of course, “great, that was a waste of $$.” But then as I watched further, and this is where some clarification would help, my understanding was that aftermarket TIPs didn’t really “break the factory PCV” until WOT. Am I misunderstanding what you were saying? I don’t and have no intention of tracking the car, and even though the additional power from the APR tune is really nice, I don’t think I’ve gone much past half throttle running up to highway speeds on an on-ramp. Based on your reply I do plan on ordering all the parts this weekend, but I was thinking of holding off on the muffler delete short term, just to break up the costs a bit(to keep my wife happy). But if you think that even with the moderate way I drive the car I should just bite the bullet and get the muffler delete right away I have no problem doing that too. Thanks again. This is my first VW(spent 35 years as a tech hating these things LOL), but since inheriting the car from my mom who passed in January, I’ve come to love the car and what to keep it for a good long while since it’s got less than 30K on it.

@@datadrivenmqb on a side note, this may be the first legitimate case where a muffler delete actually has any benefit, with the majority just being manufacturer hype.

Aftermarket TIPs do have a noticeable effect on part throttle gentle acceleration (watch from this timestamp for a few min: czcams.com/video/Pjcpla__riY/video.htmlsi=Frz_D3LwisgaXX4g&t=1356 ), though in daily driving use it's not something that will show up with an actual symptom like smoking. Over time, the longer/more frequent positive pressure events on the crankcase might be more potential to cause leaks from places like the timing cover, oil cap, or cam cradle, etc. but that would require some OEM levels of testing to confirm and correlate the cause. People HAVE been throwing aftermarket TIPs on these cars for years now without "problems"... but I do wonder with how frequent that the above mentioned leaks occur on theEA888.3, how many of those people are/were running aftermarket TIPs. You're not in any danger or anything if you DON'T add the muffler delete right away, but I wouldn't bother with the retrofit at all if you have no intentions of ever adding it. Based on the effects I've observed by changing turbo inlet pipes, the stock TIP would be best to put back on until the Venturi is hooked up, but as mentioned above the differences between them crankcase-pressure-wise really won't be able to be noticed by the end user. Power-wise when I was IS20 there was no noticeable difference in power between stock and aftermarket TIPs also FWIW. If it were MY daily driver Tiguan, I'd honestly just leave the stock TIP on and not change anything at all PCV-wise unless there's an actual problem with it. The APR tune is torque-based so no matter what you do to the car intake/exhaust-wise, it's going to make the same amount of power - the aftermarket TIP isn't doing anything except maybe giving you another 2-3% WGDC improvement. And that's really only realized at WOT. I think the MK8 system is a great PCV system, but the honest truth is it isn't necessary in cases like yours and I'd hate to tell you that you "should" spend money on something that won't really return any tangible value. BUT if you're dead set on keeping the TIP, and want to retrofit it just because you like to tinker (which I can totally relate to... if you haven't noticed), then the full retrofit is the way in my personal opinion. Also sorry to hear about your mom 😢

@@JeffSinon that's basically my take as well😆

@@camerondelaune thanks! See you at VIR in December?

@@TheShadowang1s Castrol 5W40 Euro. Have used Mobil1 and Liquimoly in the past too. IMO use whichever is most convenient. Anything Porsche A40 approved is a pretty solid oil IMO.

Do you use any friction additives in your oil? I have been Using MoS2 anti friction in last couple oil changes

@@TheShadowang1s I don't think they're worth the money. Look up the Porsche A40 requirements/testing procedures. Also FWIW the VW TCR cars (the homologated race cars, not the street car TCR in Europe) just take 5W30 Castrol Edge. Nothing fancy. They have a lot of ducting for proper cooling unlike the street cars, so I run 5W40 as it should provide better protection for higher temperatures when tracked (and is what the 2015-18 cars originally called for). Oiling failures on this platform are really not terribly common.

@@erickocampo8198 very interesting, and definitely something I’ve been running part numbers on. Any air leaking into the crankcase is that much more that must be evacuated through the blowby passage which could push a ton of oil into the valve (or can). I think the boost peak is either coincidence or random, as there’s really no reason for that to change (and it can change just depending on weather, how you get on the throttle, etc)… but the can filling up faster on the old seal is certainly helpful to know. Thanks for sharing!

This video might help understand how it works. czcams.com/video/bGQonlE2DEw/video.html There is an extra port where boost pressure can be routed. When this is done, it passes over an orifice inside the tube which results in pulling a vacuum on the PCV valve/crankcase more effectively and under more conditions.

@@AumerHadi yeah 100%, I was on 215 wide 340TW tires, street pads, and specifically NOT taking them fast because the asphalt is insanely abrasive. I was at NCCAR just to get the ECU/DSG tunes sorted out. This was also just an out lap. www.datadrivenmqb.com/tripreports/nccar-test-day-july-2024

I use Simos Tools on Android to log and flash files to the car. I use TunerPro (free version) for editing the maps. Information for tuning is on the Simos Tools Users Facebook group. In the pinned posts are the needed raw binary files (.bin) that actually get flashed to the car, and definition files (.xdf) that are needed to decipher the maps in TunerPro. Sorry for the slow response!

Hold tight, initial testing of the modified valve went well on my car this past weekend, so it'll be getting put on the known problem car at the 6:41 mark to see if it sorts his problems out at an autocross. I purchased a VW partslink subscription and it turns out the Q baffle is used on 2015-16 1.8 Golfs as well (which a few have had problems with basic retrofits). The 2015-16 1.8 and GTI 2.0L engines all shared the same piston rings from the factory... and all have been superseded to the 2017-18 part number with new pistons to go with them. I have a feeling that the 15-16 cars just plain have more blow-by due to piston/ring design... but we will see if the MK8 valve when modified sorts it out soon enough.

@@datadrivenmqb please let me know if you need anything. I use Simos tools for tuning and I can provide anything you need. Thank you.

@@datadrivenmqb also the oil baffle looks very different from the 2015 to 2019 it definitely looks like it could make a difference

Honestly I wouldn't bother modifying another TMD, would have to stick the fitting at a weird angle and/or potentially have some issues. If your turbo uses an OEM-size turbo muffler then just selling to replace w/ the 034 is the smart move. Otherwise if it's something like a hybrid w/ integrated outlet, tapping one of the charge pipes is the way to go. As long as your boost source is BEFORE the throttle body and AFTER the turbo compressor it should work. 1/4in hose and then adapted up to 3/8 right before the Venturi is what a few people on big turbos have done.

@@JCBryantDrums thanks for the kind words! It’s been a long process but it’s nice to be (seemingly) starting to make some sense of the inconsistency of success that people have (whether that’s with the MK8, any specific MK7 valves, or PCV plates).

Check out the latest video as there have been some new/important developments. czcams.com/video/cRznF5fx4rE/video.html

What kind of PCV was it replaced with? OEM from an actual VW dealership or "OE supplier" from a reseller? A 2017 GTI should have an "AP" revision PCV, and as shown in the video - putting the BMS turbo inlet pipe on causes problems and can result in positive pressure taking off from stops, etc. on a very regular basis. I'd start by putting the OEM TIP back on assuming you still have it because that's free to try out. Smoking on initial start kind of points towards valve seals, but if the valve is essentially filling up with oil prior to shutdown, it might just be sucking a bunch in on initial startup. That's the closest to an explanation I can think of as I've had a *few* people say they've had their smoking on startup cured with either a new PCV or MK8 retrofit, but realistically that is a symptom that points moreso towards failed valve stem seals.

@@datadrivenmqb yeah I was thinking same and all I use is Oem parts I believe AP revision I could be wrong

@@datadrivenmqb and again ever smoke on cold start which is odd

It looks like an interesting kit (different than the rest at least), but I've never seen or heard of anyone in the wild even owning one. No photos or videos online, nobody on the forums, etc. Would be interesting to test it, but I'm not about to drop $700 on it with all the unknowns. If I'm interpreting the hose routing correctly on their website: The VTT kit looks interesting but it will not pull an active vacuum on the crankcase like the OEM system does. It appears to route a hose from the intake valve vacuum source + a hose from the cam cover both to the "can" (box), where another hose runs from there to the turbo inlet pipe? Air follows the path of least resistance so all it's really accomplishing is a vacuum leak at idle. The OEM valve while it is technically a small vacuum leak, nearly seals itself off as the diaphragm closes. There are dozens of tables in the ECU dealing with the modeling of crankcase combustion gasses and their effect on operation for this very reason FWIW. If I'm seeing the hose routing correctly (and there aren't multiple check valves that aren't visible), then it'll do the same thing as when you mismatch GM LS valve covers and PCV parts: end up with a big vacuum leak at idle.

Thanks for the kind words! It appears that 17-19 Sportwagens have a high likelihood of working just fine. Since I released this video I bought a VW partslink subscription to cross reference different part numbers and revisions/supersessions year over year. The rings and pistons on those vehicles haven't been revised like the 2015-16 GTI have (which now call for the same piston as the 17-18 GTI). Alltracks are the same part number original + current from what I can tell with the handful of VINs I've run so far. If the car is more dedicated for track use.. then the APR plate is a solid option. I went over the pros and cons of it in another video. czcams.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/video.html

Glad it's worked well for you! Any chance you can fill this out and include your VIN in the notes somewhere? docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSe_RUsbwEj-Izz_RCkubVd-4GFxiSOUdTnRnTIfaSi-YuleZw/viewform?usp=sf_link Currently trying to gather original parts/build data from real world use on 2015-17 Golf Rs. Thanks!

If you're on Facebook, ask in the Simos Tools Users Group, multiple people there build them to sell. The only other place I know of is Russell Road and Racing in the UK, though it probably makes more sense to purchase somewhere in US/Canada if possible. russellroadracing.co.uk/collections/simos-tools/products/sl1-dongle-simos-tools

The 034 turbo inlet does not work with the MK8 retrofit. I ran into the problem today while swapping my Alltrack. The pcv inlet is tapered on the 034 and the mk8 pcv hose is different compared to the mk7.

@@larsolsen8393 I have it installed everything with no issue! However, I didn't drive the car much this month to report findings.

I JUST released a new video going over current findings/trends yesterday where that is basically the topic: czcams.com/video/cRznF5fx4rE/video.html

@@JuanCastillo-xv6jp sorry to hear that. It’s kind of coming to light that 2015-16 GTIs have some kind of inherent issue moreso than 17+.

@@kinton56 thanks! Def let me know how it goes!

@@datadrivenmqb do you think I can run the racing line catch tank along with the mk8 pcv?

Thanks! Yeah I previously tested the APR plate here… it’s def the easy button and doesn’t have near as much downside as I originally expected. czcams.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/video.htmlsi=O92ljoJJcdpWP8JR

2015 R here, g25-660 full E... think I had my first episode of this today. For this year model what would you advise? Is there an easy button for me?​@@datadrivenmqb

@@Tabbou1 thanks! 18R with DJJA are a weird case. They use the old PCV style, but have the same pistons as the 2019 DLRA. Been going through a ton of parts catalogs in search of answers. I know of multiple 19Rs that have successfully done basic and full retrofits, with one of those actually being used on track without problems. No data on 18R specifically though.

What year/make/model/engine code? And good call! Any kind of leak in the crankcase means that much more volume of air traveling through that passage at any given time.

Before I replaced my rear main seal, I was getting a decent amount of oil into the catch can. It’s a 2017 GTI. I also found success with the AH pcv plus the bms catch can before the full mk8 retrofit.

@@datadrivenmqb I’ve got a cxca engine

@@erickocampo8198 thanks a bunch! When you get a minute, is there any chance you could fill this out and include your VIN somewhere in the notes? docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSe_RUsbwEj-Izz_RCkubVd-4GFxiSOUdTnRnTIfaSi-YuleZw/viewform?usp=sf_link Trying to keep track of that stuff, and I've also purchased a VW parts subscription to look at various part number supersessions and updates over the years. Verifying the build date/original parts on either problem cars or known good cars will be super helpful. Thanks in advance!

Yeah, I’m not aware of any Rs having issues on the street. This video is almost entirely focused on track or autocross driving. The 2015 GTI + A3 covered in the video had no issues on the street FWIW.

@@datadrivenmqb I think there's been a lot of bad info on the PCV systems out there resulting in negative affects from installing block off plates and after market mods. Your info on the turbo inlet pipe was especially interesting. These are a must watch for anyone with one of these engines that wants more out of it. For now I'm building for the street but when time and wallet allow I'd love to see what I can do with the car on a course. Performance mods I'm looking at are: Stage 1 IE trueflex, this full venturi mk8 pcv, Sachs performance clutch, IE intercooler, and front and rear wavetrac lsd. Coming from 2 previous GTIs I've got a love hate relationship with these things but when it comes down to it I keep coming back and I'm willing to put up with their quirks. Love driving them.

@@thinkharder64100%. I know that plate systems “work” for track use but what I’m really after is a full understanding of the issue. I’ve seen multiple cases where people can’t keep an OEM valve from smoking on the street, they put a plate in and it’s “fine”… for 2-3 years. Then they smoke as well, only to find out that valve stem seals are practically gone. I think people are treating the symptom, not the root cause in a lot of cases.

@@datadrivenmqb I've been through the pcv failure, followed by rear main seal issue before on my late 09 GTI. PCV failure leading to increased crank case pressure, leading to failure of rear main seal. The fact that the rear main seal wasn't designed well back then didn't help either. I have to wonder if part of the reason the stock clutch has gotten such a bad wrap has been because of rear main seal failure resulting in oil on the clutch assembly exacerbating slippage before things are actually worn down. Add to this oil coating the back of the intake valves due to recirculating exaust gas from a pcv system that isn't great to start with and it's just a snowball of problems. If we can make sure we get the pressures right in the engine and have an optimally operating PCV system it's a great first step. Valves stay cleaner, less pressure in the engine on oil seals, oil stays in the engine, and optimally no catch can. Jealous of the Toyota dual injection system on the GR corolla but I can get so much more for the money in a mk7 platform.

@@thinkharder64 that's a very interesting theory and makes perfect sense. Thanks for the input! I just purchased a VW Partslink subscription so I'm going to be pulling a few dozen VINs and comparing a LOT of part numbers over the next month or so. If you happen to do the retrofit please reach out via FB or on the GolfMK7 forum (I'm "Derhase") and let me know how it goes!