Video

You can not replace the lines without removing the turbo. The leaks are normally not from the o-rings, they are from the rubber part of the lines, which over time crack and start leaking.

www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/14-in-38-in-drive-long-reach-dual-flex-head-ratchet-67994.html www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/14-in-38-in-drive-dual-head-ratchet-67993.html www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/3-8-eighth-inch-heavy-duty-flexible-ratchet-96369.html You still need a short socket and you should be able to get a small torque wrench in there. If you can't fit the torque wrench, add a swivel.

​@@goroundfun6034 Thank you so much. That did it! This was exactly what I needed.

You don't need to remove the mount to remove the CAT. In the video, the mount has been removed mainly to show it better. That is why the instructions don't say to remove it. Now, that being said, if you don't have a helper and you have the right tools, it takes 5 minutes to remove the mount and it gives you a lot more space to work on the clamp. Re-installing the clamp the right way sometimes is a pain, so extra space helps very much. To answer your question, if you need to remove the mount you must hold the engine.

@@goroundfun6034 Ok cool! That's what I'm going to do. I'm waiting on an engine support bar and already got pretty much all the bolts cracked loose but I'll definitely remove that motor mount control arm it makes sense to make the job easier. Thanks

@@goroundfun6034 Yeah I have the right tools. 4) E12 and a 17mm on the top of motor mount. That should be all I need to remove control arm and top 17mm nut.

the 2 t20 are the same size. Make sure that the T20 on top is the most forward screw and the one on the bottom is the most rearward. if you put the T30 screws where the T20s are supposed to go, then most likely the holes have been enlarged and you might have to fill them with epoxy.

131908 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), intake, cold start: Position not reached. i got that no clue wtf it could be

@@user-ou3pv7ti2b yours specifically states vanos, my best bet would be the vanoss gear maybe stuck, easy way to check is take rocket cover off, turn over the engine by hand and you will see it seize up if that is the issue, if not check all the other components of the vanoss system like the solenoids and stuff see if they sticking and allowing oil through

Just did it and it was really ass. Thanks for the video tho

The same turbo. It is in good condition.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KBKB9S2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those codes are related to low oil pressure in the Vanos system. First thing is to check the engine oil level. Check your timing, if it is fine, then you have a problem with the Vanos.

Is it the same for xdrive? I am literally about to start this project with close to no experience just CZcams videos. It's a 2013 BMW 528i xdrive. Any advice?

@@hamburger6133yes bro you don’t need to lift the engine at all or remove the mount

Thank you!

I use a high pressure washer.

Check engine light with the code that tells you so.

@@goroundfun6034 Thank you Sir

⁠@@goroundfun6034may i know what code?

Thank you.

I comes as a set with the screws for the waste gate. Part number is 11 65 8612575. You can get it at the dealer. www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fastening-set/11658612575/

You are welcome.

Left and right are the same part number. IDK about XDrive.

I do not believe they are interchangeable. Had to order two separate mounts with different parts numbers.

Same Part Number.

Well, I could be wrong, but these were the parts I had to order when replacing both mounts. R - 22117935148 L - 22117935147 Had work done to fix an oil leak and mounts were reinstalled in reverse. Started having vibration issues shortly after.

Yours must be All Wheel Drive. Look at this part number 22-11-7-935-149 it is for left and right for RWD only.

No, the video was part of a different job, Timing chain replacement, which I have not had time to publish yet. I have several videos that I need to edit and upload.

@goroundfun6034 do u have a video where you teach how to use the smoke machine with this engine?

Was this easier? I'm planning on doing this job soon

@@joseantoniomendivil7064 what year is the car? Mine is a 13', was no way I was pulling it out from the top, not enough room in the engine bay. As long as you have a lift that can lift the motor and hold it in place, taking the motor mount off is not hard at all.

@@tony_golfs Mine is a 14'. I might buy the lift for this one, any recommendations?

@joseantoniomendivil7064 car was lifted as in 4 point hydraulic lift. Then I used an adjustable stand to hold engine up, then disassemble motor mount.

The oil supply line was replaced. It is on the video. 16:00

I can't see the check valve on the oil supply line (cylinder block side). If it is a feed line without a check valve, an improved oil supply line should be installed. The problem is that the exhaust muffler shows white smoke when the car stops overnight and starts for the first time the next day. See SIB111116.

The service bulletin applies to F10 models up to 6-27-2013 (early models). Mine is a 2016.

The CAT can be removed and installed without removing the mount. For this job the mount had to be removed and it is easier to reinstall the CAT before the mount. You are refering to 28:36, that is not the removal of the CAT, it is only tor torqueing of the bracket for the CAT.

@@goroundfun6034 makes sense, thank you. You motivated me to do this DYI, saved me thousands. Keep Posting

Unfortunately not

Did you have code or what you fell with that problem?

12-13 hours. Could of be less if I have the right tools to access difficult tight areas.