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Well i'm hooked so much so i went a bought one to play with. Hoping it will help me with designing parts for my trikes i have, it's the little touches that make it worth while. Very impressed with the turntable setup would be interested in it for a couple of smaller pieces i need to do. You said you designed it do you sell the files or can i get them from somewhere. I have a very old turn table like 10 yrs i think but doesn't work properly anymore. any help would be great like i said love your work. .

Great 👍

Thanks for sharing this.

Excellent video concept, more show... and less numbers. In terms of making a cell phone case, what's your final recommendation? My "drops" are usually from about waist height?

I watched to the wireless in use. I do like the video but I need to see how it works with a phone.

what is polypropylene ?

i also fixed the z leadscrew backlash problem with the mpcnc but i approached it differently. i bought a second brass nut , flipped it upside down from the original, spun it backwards till the holes lined up and used longer screws to take out the backlash. same as your method but like a spring pushing the nuts together instead of apart.

Quick Correction: I said in the video that camera calibration was pretty bad. I have since redone calibration with a properly aligned honeycomb bed on top of the slats, and kept the calibration pattern within the 400x400 square (instead of to the edge of the machine which is way bigger). The calibration is nearly perfect now!

What are your opinions. Ratrig vs Voron ?

It's a great job, but let's not forget how we got here - the community behind MPCNC is amazing, and going off on a few imperfections isn't the look. I don't know if I would lean into CNC.js that might, as they have essentially abandoned the project.

They should not archive old versions, many people still use 1 and 1.5 the files should be Always available somewhere. Is a very good project.

hey, are you still using this thing? how is software? better/worse/same? How do you compare this to iPhone

10:50 i stretched that hole

There are screws that drop through the lead scream nut into the top of the core so that the lead screw isnt just free spinning. Did you use longer ones that drop through the entire double lead screw setup? Please advise

Do you have plans or a link for the cutoff wheel? Is that 3d printed? TIA

Thanks Alan! I cant wait to give TPU a go!

abominedgehog 🤣

Freaking Boss level 💯

Amazing vid 🎉 Delrin benchy is boss 😮 you Jammed your PP in the extruder and it was soooooo long lol How did it fit in here 😅

Hi, I recently bought a Lenovo Yoga Book 9i with dual screens, and since there isn't a case available for it, I'd like to design a unique case. Before diving into an ambitious design, I want to start with a simple protective case. I need some advice on measuring the dimensions of my laptop accurately. I tried scanning an image of the laptop, then cropping and resizing the image to convert it from PNG to OBJ, but it didn't go as planned. What is the best way to measure my laptop for this purpose? Additionally, I am planning to 3D print the case using SainSmart TPU 95A. Can you provide guidance on how to proceed with the measurements and 3D printing?

Hello,it s a voronkiller ?

Thanks. Nice job. And thanks for the stabilizers too. I'm cutting them now. Maybe you are the guy that could come up with a push style clamp for the warped boards???

This is one of the greatest reviews I've seen. Thank you! Also I'll appreciate if you could give me a couple of recommendations for mesh mixer tutorials or channels to follow. Thanks again

I think that chemical adhesion has its limits for parts sticking to beds and can be annoyingly temperamental. I'm surprised that more mechanical solutions haven't been explored -- ie. special base layer that can be clipped, or fastened to a surface for a perfect, heat-free "adhesion" to the build plate.

Like you said -Ditch those slats and use a honeycomb bed. The blade slats were a “cool” idea but in reality the honeycomb provides the much needed stability. I’m still dialing in my settings for deep relief 3D greyscale engravings and almost there :) I’m still very happy and impressed with the Falcon 2 Pro and its capabilities. Cheers

its actually the most impressive of all the filaments i had no idea it was this flexible and strong

Marking spray has silica in it. You are basically putting a ceramic coating in when it heats it. The stuff is permanent and lasts travel to space. NASA uses it. If you can rub it off or remove it chemically you didn't get it hot enough. I've worked with cermark a lot it's great when used right. Just dial in the settings. Tempra paint and glass let's you do engraving in clear glass. I made a video on it a few years back. These machines are coming along but I'm still convinced co2 is the only way to go. Thanks for a great review.

You can’t measure a 3d print to see the accuracy of a 3d scanner. 3d printing has around 0.2mm tolerance and the material will shrink depending on the geometry too.

I mean, I bought a 40w K40 for $400. And it can cut/engrave far better than this thing. I spent another $300 putting it into a frame that ended up giving me a 16"x12" volume to work with, and I'm still cheaper and more capable than this.

top class video, much appreciated. Building a CNC myself right now but I am using the approach which u see in onefinity. I use 4 pcs 1100 mm 40 mm solid rod linear rods for Y axis and 1700 mm of the same for the gantry. Not sure about the Z axis at the moment but it's pretty straightforward. I'll add a laser as well and possibly some other attachments but not sure. It will run on rootCNC, a grbl based solution and the motors for all all axes with encoders, to make it more reliable I hope. The movement is done with 2 x 16/10 ballscrews on Y and 1 x 16/10 on the X axis. The base and gantry will prob be printed for the beginnig or made of some plywood but when I'm confident it works it will be replaced with solid steel and/or some epoxygranite cast parts. We'll see. Have some fun time on that beast you built man!

Any update?

Printing gears in TPU is an INCREDIBLE idea. Well done. In fact, the flexibility may outlive ridged gears in environments where sand and dust can work themselves into the mechanism: it may be possible to leave them exposed (provided no fingers or large objects can reach), reducing the need for enclosure. And modifying thickness may be an effective strategy at increasing load capacity. Cleverly integrated capillaries may even make these self oiling as well! Silent, durable, and flexible (eg. sand/dust pass through teeth).

What is that alternative lead screw coupler you switched to?

definitely not enough credits for the science you're doing there. I'm looking forward to build my mpcnc and will include your upgrades for sure!

Did you end up adding the second extruder ? How did that work out, second extruder for soluble material support definitely worth adding.

Nice upgrades! What Kobalt router model are you using? Reason why I ask is because I have a Kobalt router and was hoping to commandeer it for my build, but always thought it was too heavy. Would be cool to know if it’s the same as yours.

This is an incredible video that makes everything so clear to understand.

$600 for THAT? You have to be kidding!

Nice! Great job.

Nice. 🙂

do you lose any z-height with the 3d printed backlash thing? do you need a different size leadscrew?

Nice breakdown of TPU. Have you tried TPR? Its made for the atomstack cambrian, a rubber filament. Its flexible like TPU but grippy like rubber. I wanted to get one here localy as my first 3d printer and sort of regret it because it came with like 6 rolls of the TRP filament which is expensive, but there wasnt any satisfying reviews on it so i passed it up. I wish we could get a real review on it. You should reach out to atomstack maybe they'll send you one.

Don't run your 5v off of boosted 12v... Each buck/boost you go through requires some heat dissipation. Heat dissipation is stored electricity being thrown away as waste. Run the 5v buck off of your main power bus. What you designed here will work, especially if your loads are low. BUT if you want the most power from your battery, the last thing you want to do is over-process your power. And depebding on your BCM, it might be better for both the 5v and 12v boards connect directly to the battery and not go through the bcm. That depends on if you are going to use more power while on line power, or battery power. Generally speaking, boost is less efficient than buck, but neither are 100%. Efficiency is the inverse measure of how much power you loose to heat, and each loss is added to the other losses. In your battery circuits, if something is getting hot, you are throwing power away. Don't throw power away. If each circuit looses 10%, then going through 3 means almost a third of your power will never make it to the thing you are powering. Batteries lose a third of their capacity, not what you want for batteries already in a used state. And if a power device says 97% efficient, that is usually a weighted lie, it will be 97% in a very specific range of voltages and currents, it can drop to 10% efficiency if you are too far outside of the "sweet spot" it was designed for, thus throwing away 90% of your battery power. And put in some filter caps, as those buck/boost devices produce high frequency artifacts. And they can burn each other up if one units artifacts are destructive to the other device. You need some high frequency caps to absorb some of the noise, and some large high-value caps to store energy. Caps take up a lot of space, the maker of the buck/boost is not going to do it for you because they want small cheap boards. Also keep in mind that each board has a limit to how much power it can handle, so a board moving power for another board is also wasting capacity. AND a buck/boost board is turning on and off at a high frequency to do the power conversion. So if you measure a board at a half amp, what it might actually be doing is switching from 0 amps to 25 amps over and over in a way to average .5 amps. Your volt meter may not see the 25amp spikes, but the upstream electronics WILL if you don't put the right filter capacitors in place. If you want to see the 25 amp spikes, you much learn to measure power with an oscilloscope. I got my oscilloscope training when I was 3, explaining how I could handle 120v mains connections when I was 6. Most people don't get to play with oscilloscopes, but seeing the signals has a lot to do with how much you learn from the doing. II learned to build power supplied when I was 6, in 1968. We didn't have buck/boost boards we could buy inexpensively, back then... but now that I have 56 years experience, inefficient designs kind of jump out at me... While I was critical, my goal is to be helpful.

its so cool

Where is all my GRBL 5x users at 😂

You should go back and edit any corrections into your videos with a text comment overlay as most good utubbers do.

If you were to do this over today, would you wait for V-Core 4.0?

I didn’t think you could scan reflective objects?

bro, where's part 2?

The blobing and stringing at 11:03 is not because of moisture. It is because of retraction settings.