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I would definitely say you can use it for that. Might be a little oversized but that never hurts anything. This one Can definitely be used for up to 1/8th scale so 1/16th no problem. I’ve been grinding on this ramp with only one resurface for 7 years now. Mostly i jump a 1/8th scale kraton exb or 1/10th scale Arrma, losi, team associated vehicles.

Not many rubber gaskets on these cars, as rubber gaskets are good for only sealing things up. So, probably came out of the differential thats full of fluid. Been a long while since i worked on a blx diff but seems like there is a large gasket that rings the differential housing that seals when you put the two sides of the diff together. If its roughly matches the size of the diff housing thats probably your spot. Otherwise, if it’s smaller it is likely the ones that seal where the diff cups poke through the diff housing.

Good lord thats insane. Inflation is out of control but for such basic building materials thats almost unimaginable. Im glad the ramp lasts a long time cause i certainly wouldn’t build another at those costs

@milehighspeedrc8412 ya the cheapest plywood I can find is $48 and that's just to cheap of a wood. The one that's $75-90 would do

Dang a sledge for an 11 year old. Lucky boy

@@rust1eronblitzrussia542 he is definitely a lucky kid. I wish I had what he does at my age. All we had was sticks we would try to set on fire in the woods.

Enjoy. Hope he has fun and doesn’t run the meter on parts cause even with a durable piece of kit like the sledge, jumping is hard on the wallet!!

Of course. Go for it. But whether thats the right gearing or makes sense is up to what you are trying to do.

Yep, very common issue as well, and as you note, folks have come up with some creative solutions. Some folks have some good aftermarket 3d printed supports, I use an art gum eraser carved out with the shape of the motor. Once you install your support, and if you keep bashing hard, you may still get bending however. Thats what happened with me. The continued bend will be cause by the thrusting torque described here. With your support underneath and the screws shown here though, you should be able to send it without issues. 👍

Glad it was helpful

The FDR is inclusive of the differential ratios.

Glad it was helpful. Happy RC-ing

You're welcome!

Appreciated. I hope you can solve the concern on ur vehicle. Obviously a new car shouldn’t be giving you such issues. With these cars and the power they have it is best to try and identify and fix and not just “power through”. To identify just strategically remove parts along the drive train till you find it. For example, remove the center shaft and test. That will tell you if its front or back. Then you can remove axels and determine if its in the gear box or out near wheels. remove left vs right components etc… and eventually you’ll track it down. If you hit any snags be happy to help, just drop a line.

Your second sentence is on the right track. These do stop the gearbox module from trying to slide forward in the slots. The key is, these screws are on the outside or ends of the module and thats what your trying to pin down. The module assembly is already “pinned/fixed” in the middle by the drive shaft. That shaft acts as a brace or anchor for the middle of that module keeping the assembly from sliding forward there, but the ends are free to slide forward if enough force is applied. The weight of the motor can thrust forward in a big crash and be that force. When you take a big tumble the whole assembly wants to slide forward, the middle cant, but the ends can and the heavy weight of the motor adds to the “moment arm” effect. The motor will thrust the end of the motor plate forward while the center is pinned, and your motor plate will bend. This solution stops that type of bend by keeping the ends from sliding forward while the middle is already anchored. This type of bend mostly comes from high speed crashes 70mph+ or huge jumps that aren’t landed, 50 plus feet and over 10 feet high. You are correct that another more common type of bend comes from the motors “up and down” force on the plate since it’s hanging there suspended off the plate. Your solution is a good one, as is any that fills that gap between motor and chassis so its not hanging there. Lot of people including myself solved that in various ways (got mine from a guy who makes 3D printer “motor cradles”) but were still getting the first type of bend.

Yes, 48 pitch is .5288 module. They are one and the same. 48 pitch is used by a number of manufacturers for 1/10 scale vehicles. (And is sometimes referred to as .5 mod…but almost always 48p). Unfortunately .6 mod is also utilized by some manufacturers and those are not compatible with 48 pitch ( .5 mod). They ( .6mod and 48p) look almost identical as they are close but they will not mesh. The only two pitch/mod combinations which are different but yet compatible are 32p and .8 mod.

This one is pretty good. czcams.com/video/wmPatUav2hw/video.htmlsi=-8WL3FZ6LhKZGSAJ

Sounds like you might have blown away all the data that went into my video on the true cost of owning rc cars.😂. That thing must be fun to drive.

Typhon flies like an airplane. But watch out for bad landings😂: Huge air / Huge destruction - Typhon 3s RC car split in half czcams.com/video/xw-iVIfF-UI/video.html

The parts category was never shared between vehicles. A replacement part is tracked only under that specific car and never shared. The overall cost increase of the car when you reach this category did have a shared value noted, due to the “needed to run” category creating shared costs, but parts were never shared. Parts category alone for each car averaged about 40% increase over the cars. Electronics were a little trickier to assign. The only two vehicles that didnt come with electronics were the optima and the kraton. Motor/esc and one 3s battery were added exclusively to the kraton as the electronics are not used in other vehicles (too big and powerful). The receiver/transmitter/and 2nd 3s battery were tracked as shared however as those can be used across all cars. All electronics in the optima were tracked as shared because everything used there can be used in other cars or taken from other cars except the 2s battery, which i dont use anywhere else so that got assigned solely to the optima. Any other electronics purchased are all in the hop ups category and tracked as single ownership manner and also in the shared manner. You can absolutely share electronics across vehicles, I swamp electronics in and out of cars all the time.

@@milehighspeedrc8412 Ah so you though out all of these then your assesments are quite on point...

I would also argue with your points of view, by saying this: if im o a tight budget, but own a brushless basher, i might get a well price or used roller of a short course truck or a buggy, to swap all Electronic and ha a season of different kind of fun, on track racing. In my case, i have a 2wd e-firestorm. It gets stuck on grass a lot. Dislike 2wd with no tracks around. I might sell it as a roller and keep electronics for a new 4wd roller. Or keep that invested 2wd as a spare roller, if i ever decide to race outside my area

I love it. Sometimes loud and simple is better:)

(((act MPH/Tire circ)*FDR/60))/KVA(kv*voltage) this formula doesn’t work don’t know what is wrong

The formula is shown in the bottom left at mark 19:19 of the video. What you have here seems right, however there can be circular references that sometimes cause issues if some of the cells you utilize have a different Calc method. For example on the kva, I don’t use a formula (kv*voltage) to get that I simple had a whole chart of hard input kva’s that are referred…otherwise some circular references may occur.

Wow, I’d love to see your garage! I try to only keep about 6-8 cars on hand at a time max. Overwhelms me otherwise. Once i reach that limit i’ll sell off cars i dont use as much or don’t like.

perhaps referencing low audio volume? others have noted as well. wish i could fix it for ya. Unfortunately everything is fine on creation of the videos on my end and then when uploading to youtube they get clipped down for whatever reason. I've read this is a common issue of youtube, and shockingly there is no fix that youtube allows. Once a video is up, its up, no adjustments. All sorts of people have comments about bit rates, audio mix, equal curves blah blah. I'm not a professional video editor or someone trying to make a living on youtube. i do it for fun with my daughter. I don't have time for all that and its sad that youtube has become so complex that simple audio adjustment is not an option and more and more they only seem to cater to high end users with tons of tech behind them. Ordinary folks posting for fun like me end up with quiet videos i guess.