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@shug2795 I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video, but you have to start with the shallow side first (usually the inside bead if the wheel was on a vehicle) Having a little air pressure in the tire can help ensure that the majority of the weight from the board is going onto the bead instead of just squishing the sidewall. While it's a challenge to get a bead like yours unseated, it's not impossible. Make sure you have a spotter who can ensure that the board is going to catch the bead and is basically rubbing up against the rim. It may take a few attempts, rotate the tire so that each attempt is slightly over from the last attempt. Another trick you can try is to give the side of the board that is on the ground some height. A few inches will change the point of leverage and can make all the difference on a tire with a very soft sidewall. If all else fails and the tire is trash, you can easily cut the tire off at the siewall. Use an angle grinder to cut the metal band in the bead, but be careful not to tear up the rim. If you want to save the tire, I highly recommend investing in a harbor freight manual bead breaker. It's the one that uses a bolt to push down on the bead. I finally bought one a week ago for some tractor tires and I kicked myself for not getting it sooner.

@LeverneProper there is a rear brake reservoir on the right side if I remember correctly, and the reservoir on the left side closest to the engine is the coolant overflow reservoir. You should be able to find it on ebay.

@LeverneProper That is actually the coolant overflow tank. They all go bad since they are not very sun resistant. You can find another one on Ebay for fairly cheap or run without it if you are in a colder climate.

@Rudy_24 I don't remember the exact thread pitch, but I do remember that they were SAE, not metric.

@se128ln4 have you checked your master cylinder for the brakes? It could be an issue with it not letting the fluid return to the reservoir. If it's not brakes, it could be your 4x4 partially engaging. I have had similar problems and the front hubs were the culprit. Hope this helps!

And what type of oil it takes and where

@@dandan1171 I don't have this ATV anymore, but it had one crankcase plug at the bottom of the motor. Since it is a 2 stroke engine, it doesn't have oil in the crankcase, so the plug is only there to drain out the engine if it's flooded.

Thanks, I wouldn't say it's anything to write home about 🤣

If you are looking at the flywheel keyway, it's not sheared. The key is offset for the ignition timing.

We did replace the seal, but I honestly can't remember if I replaced the bearing. What I do know is that I measured everything before I reassembled the engine so it was either good or I replaced it.

The bead is about an inch and a half. The sidewall is almost an inch thick. If you don't believe me, try mounting a set 🤣

Thanks, John!!

Any ideas

There has to be something off with the timing. Are you certain that you installed the key for the flywheel the right way? it is an offset kay, so that would mess with timing. I assume it has compression, but even if it had low compression, it should pop.

Thank you! There aren't many of us, but I can say without a doubt that we mechanics have more fun than gamers!

Could be a sticky butterfly on the throttle. I am guessing that by just tapping it, it is getting stuck partially open but is able to slam closed when you floor it. It could also be it's running a bit rich, but I would check the throttle first since that seems to be the most direct correlation. Hope this helps!

It's a 1993, I ported the heads, and it has a mild cam, but otherwise, it is a stock 7.5l.

Are you sure the clanking noise is valve train? The most I have ever heard was tapping, so unless your motor has jumped timing (very unlikely unless you disassembled it), it might be rod bearings.

@@greenhillgarage it ran alright before I messed with it. It did pop a pushrod out the other day before I tinkered with the adjustments, it ran fair after I put the rod in place

@@greenhillgarage it ran alright before I messed with it. It did pop a pushrod out the other day before I tinkered with the adjustments, it ran fair after I put the rod in place

@@tylersgoatinsurance7081 These little motors have very soft valve springs, so I can see how it lost a push rod. Check to be sure that the rod is perfectly straight or it will make a pretty bad sound since it won't stay in adjustment with a bent push rod

Thanks, man! You can get some gas tank sealant that will cover all the rust and prevent it from getting in the carb. If you want to knock some of the rust loose first, get a few handfuls of old nuts and bolts and throw them in the tank with a cup or two of gas and shake the tank. I have seen some guys strap the tank to a tractor wheel and drive it to let the loose bolts work. Thanks for subscribing!

Is it a new needle and seat? I have had a few get an oval pattern worn into the seat and needle. Also, these aren't meant to hold much over 3psi of fuel pressure. As long as it holds 3psi, it is good to go. You may need to install an in-line fuel pressure regulator if it is anything over 4psi.

@@greenhillgarage I didn’t get a new seat in kit just a new needle and jets which I didn’t use It ideal’s great once I unplugged fuel pump

Got issue also , the fuel p runs continuously when key is on ! It’s supposed to pump when motor turns over .

That's a tough one, I had an ATV that I did for a customer who had rebuilt their own engine but had no coolant flow. I found that they had left their coolant lines open during the rebuild, and a mouse had crawed into one of the lines to drink the sweet antifreeze and had died in the line. The customer couldn't see it, so they put everything together and had no flow. Aside from rodents, a rag or thermostat could be clogging the system. These engines don't flow a lot of coolant, so you might not be able to tell just by looking in the radiator. If you have a temp gun, you can see what the engine block temperature is. Anything under 200 degrees is normal. Another easy way to tell if you have flow is to touch the hose going to the radiator and see if it is hot. If it doesn't seem hot, but the engine is, then it's plugged. There is a bleed screw on the line coming to the engine from the radiator, unscrew this, and make sure coolant comes out. Let me know if any of these options work, and I can dig my motor out to find anything else that might be a problem. Mahalo, brother!

Definitely a do as I say not as I do moment here. Unfortunately, only 3% of my viewers are younger than 25. Not many people my age that I know who are interested in anything like what I do. Most of my friends like trucks and ATVs but never work on them and would rather play video games.

I see your point and yes most kids are not learning anything but playing video games and getting way over weight 😢😢😢

The automotive fuel pump overloaded the floats in the carb. Only use a factory style replacement pump for these!

The original fuel pump on these is a 12v pump, the previous owner swapped the original pump for an automotive "clicker" pump. They have too much pressure for a Kawasaki Mule float so it floods the carburetor. Definitely need to find a factory replacement pump instead of a automotive pump.

www.ebay.com/itm/125454591703?fits=Model%3AMule+3010%7CMake%3AKawasaki&hash=item1d35ad26d7:g:uJwAAOSwPA9k1ASZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Fhqj%2BqowEPZLLy2%2FcWfSyI14UAA9YohQVxHlaewJ8B3wTQYkXyF1wo9q6WHhp6ZlroeRCNGvyU8aVlZMsQNBTr%2F8zUVo2iFo7ccAJydWFa2%2BXQniQm4rwDeFRkRuK68agzkLHAaLWA%2FM7HBtORG8NCHxMOxU0Gsx5YQ%2FEG9lHeUIDJ9wXYGxmT9Ry7hF9qEkERl51IQL%2B1LjgJzjbkeGjBVMnAQmzRt1b500tTSZqai6%2BIGS%2BsPCI7%2Bc6FHdV%2F6gmUwD%2B7Vja%2BFYIdgVsE6M7JimAFC4LmbBpyWbUyQtJG8qstkZQ7KUfHwP5so%2Bow1Jg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3rKlj41j Here is the one I use.

​@greenhillgarage thank you, I'm ordering this and another one from your link right now

I ended up getting this one running with the quadrajet. It ran really good, but had low oil pressure so I have it on a stand waiting for a rebuild. I ended up scrapping the truck after getting all the good parts off it, and I am in the hunt for a Mustang or Bronco to build this engine for. Thanks for watching!

I got one later, but I was too impatient to wait for it!

😂 Honestly, I would take any motor that would fit! I was thinking how much power a snowmobile engine would have, but I don't think the Mule has a strong enough transmission.