Video

Glad I could help!

Absolutely. I would’ve much rather built the header myself

Glad I could help!

I talk about it in this video, the most common crank case pressure induced leak would be at the oil cap (which can run down and be misdiagnosed as something like the oil pan)

@@BaunPerformance really hope it ends up being it coming from the oil cap and just replace the pvc That’d be so much better

Everything I know about this is in the video

It’s really nice having the extra range!

Thanks man I appreciate it!

Yes, it started around 80-90k ish. Unfortunately blue smoke (oil burning) on cold start has absolutely nothing to do with external leaks or PCV issues. Being a spicy economy car, VW used inferior valve guide seals. The oil leaks past them on higher mileage MQB and burns off on cold start. Luckily, it’s such a small amount of oil even at 140k+ it doesn’t add up to a significant amount over my 7k oil change interval, but it is annoying & can only really be fixed with new bronze valve guides/seals (upgraded from OEM)

@@BaunPerformance Wow definitely one of the most helpful comments I’ve ever received on a post. Thank you! But also I’m definitely not a mechanic so I’m curious… if a bad PCV leads to external leaks due to over pressurization, why could it not cause internal leaks? Again just curious since your first explanation clearly shows you know what you’re talking about. Thanks again!

@@BaunPerformance also would you recommend using liquimoly oil saver if it is the valve guide seals?

If it happened with the parts change it’s the parts you installed. Double check the ground straps, but it’s most likely incorrect or poor quality components

Thanks!

I crank the flow up to 55cfh on the torch & 20 on the back purge. 88amps on 0.65 & as high as 105-125 depending on what thickness flange or hanger is going on. The trick is to move quickly and cool the puddle with filler

@@BaunPerformance good to know! Really appreciate the response. I'll give it a go and see what happens

He’s driving it from SC to OK now, still no issues

Ive had stage 2 apr for 3 months and 10k miles of 10% hard driving and so far my clutch is still going strong. It has worn a little maybe about 10-20% at most

Correct, I’d recommend OEM GM as it’s far better quality than aftermarket

Glad I could help!

I’d recommend a OEM is38 from FCP (lifetime warranty FTW) if you’re happy with the power it makes now, although with any upgraded turbo should be paired with a upgraded intercooler (if you don’t have one already). 2015 cars had early revision turbo and other engine parts, so a fresh current revision is38 should last 100,000+ miles worry free with proper maintenance.

My wife’s been begging me to tint the shop truck, but on a classic I kinda like the clear glass. I agree on a blacked out R tint is a must, but being from the northeast it can be a issue (local laws, tickets, ect)

Water pump isn’t run off the timing set like older VW, so it can be done whenever. You can check timing chain stretch via VCDS or through a inspection cover, but the Gen3 TSI tend to last a long time

Gives jussssstttt enough room to squeeze it out

I was just doing my HVAC guy a solid, I don’t sell any parts for Veloster normally

Thanks! Development of the tooling is just as fun as the parts themselves

You make one cut to the OEM catback, which is one piece from the factory. Exactly the same method as a resonator delete, & fully reversible with the supplied clamp if you ever return to stock.

$1,300

Spools a little quicker

No problem!

I’ve never used it, but will when it’s time to replace my big ticket items; is38, B16, DS2500, ect

I sell & ship the Downpipe & Midpipe, which is $3,250. There’re videos specifically on that. The full Valved TBE in this video ($6,000) was too expensive to justify offering as a production part. 42 hours of fabrication to complete, which is way beyond what most Golf R owners are willing to spend. $6,000 was cost,

Big relief if it is vs a RMS!

Thanks for watching!

Hopefully this will help resolve it! Definitely a poor design

I don’t think there is a dedicated drain.

I didn’t save anything unfortunately, and I ordered from whoever had them in stock so it’s not in one nice neat place to try to track them down

I’m originally from Poland, OH

Vortex std is a league above the DTR, which is comparable to the is38. Is38 spools a little quicker & the DTR pulls a little harder to redline. All three have their place in the market for sure, it just depends on if you want it to feel quick, be quick, or actually put down impressive numbers. DTR will feel quick, is38 is quick, and Vortex is the way to go if you wanna run impressive 1/4 mile times & making 400+ on the dyno. For a daily driver that sees the mountains & track days I love my is38 as a good all around’er. Not saying the other two don’t fit that bill, you’d be basically splitting hairs on daily use, but the is38 is the OEM+ champ for obvious reasons & FCP Euro selling them with a lifetime warranty is just icing on the cake. The best value if you’re starting from scratch is the DTR, since tuning is included.

@@BaunPerformance thanks for your answer jake! so if you had to build your GTI again from scratch, would you choose the DTR over the IS38?

It’s kind of a wiggle and shake to get it aligned with all of the shift forks. Double check they’re all lined up in pairs

@@BaunPerformance is that a part thats available separately?

BRAPPP

Neutral with the AC on at idle is the loudest, because what you’re hearing is gear chatter. The mounts themselves don’t cause any NVH, they simply reduce/hide it less than the squishy OEM mounts

I’ve used the same CK torch on my 210EXT and the Typhoon, it’s not specific to either. I called Salem Welding Supply in Salem, OH and told them what I wanted & they placed the order and shipped it to me, so unfortunately I don’t have specs on it…although it’s one phone call away if that’s what you wanted to do. I’ve maxed out the 210 on AC issue free without a water cooler. It would be nice to have, but definitely not a necessity.

Appreciate the reply. I’ve been happy with my little 161STH but it’s just that, little and only does DC. I just see a few issues pop up with the coolers and I’m a hobbyist so someone in your position not having a cooler and pumping out work is very helpful. I was concerned that AC would heat up the torch too much. Great content and thanks

99.99% of people aren’t looking for a full send knock sensors turned off tune

Thanks!

Yes! It was a good fix, no further seepage after it was cleaned up and swapped