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thanks for the comment! glad it was helpful

if its a carbed model ( carburetor ) If highly suggest you do a carb overhaul. full clean out and new seals/gaskets.

@@ReelTeaseFishing first thing i did, gasket, seals, cleaning and tuning

sorry it didn't help, but its the proper way and the reason the majority of them leak.

@@willoestreich8375 glad this helped you!!!

@@MrVela05 your outboard has two thermo switches/sensors. Usually located on the top rear portion of each head. These can certainly fail. By disconnecting one at a time when running on the hose you can distinguish which side is causing the alarm. If both are sounding off then you may well be overheating. Best to check with an IR Thermal Gun. Cheap at Harbor Freight Back to the sensor if it’s only one that’s sounding the alarm swap the sensors and see if the sensor that trips moves sides. If it’s the same bank sounding the alarm then you may have that side inadequately cooling. This is caused by restriction in the cooling passages. If the alarm follows the same sensor then that sensor has probably failed and will need to order a new one. .

@@MrVela05 also if it’s overheating at idle it may also be your poppet valve. I have a video on my channel changing it on a Yamaha along with a video on using a wooden dowel to make the job easier. Check em out.

@@markmcmanus5901 thank you for subscribing. Your pump is slightly different and works almost in the same manner. However, what you are describing sounds like it has failed. You can test it the exact same way. Pull it off the block and squeeze primer bulb. These don’t always leak when they fail but in your case it sounds like it’s dumping fuel into your block. (Blown out internal seal) I highly recommend you buy a new pump with the oring/seal to the block and change your motor oil as fuel in the block will thin out your oil. You should be back in the water in no time 👍🏽👍🏽

@@danmerrill3578 thanks for the support !!

In this particular video we were doing it as a routine maintenance replacement. However signs to replace would be: -Overheating -Engine not maintaining operating temp -4stroke “Making Oil” -weak cooling stream “pee stream”

I heard that if 2 strokes will not top speed & normal fuel mix and filtering to check the stat. Are there unusual symptoms a faulty stat can produce?

@@awakenedtotruth8419 haven’t heard that one, but I have heard that if t stats are removed or failing you will burn more fuel.

@@702SLICKVICK if it’s at the thermostat, give this a try along with a new thermostat and gasket

They are notorious for getting dirty and causing issues. Some people run them without, some reinstall. I don’t have an HPDI anymore but if I did, I’d probably leave em out

Thank you for the support 👍🏽👍🏽

when you say shooting out the dip stick oil? is it that is as if its overfilled and leaks when you open it or is it actively shooting out of the dip stick opening? Also does the oil look contaminated?

@@ReelTeaseFishing thanks for the response . After noticing oil coming out thru manfold / throttle body . I just happen to check oil and when I lifted dip stick oil came gushing out . I recently replaced fuel pump inside vst canister . No issues up until fuel pump went bad

Glad this helped

I would be thinking two things here. Over heating Oil not filling fast enough. For over heating one way to check is on your gauge, if it’s digital you should get a blinking notification. You can also check by using a heat IR gun pretty cheap at Harbor Freight. Reasons why she’s overheating are failing thermostats, worn out impeller or build up of scale in your passages. If the issue is oil related when the alarm sounds, bring boat to a stop. quickly remove the cowing and check the oil level in the oil reservoir. If it’s at the low mark then your inline filter at the aux tank is clogged and the oil can’t fill fast enough to meet the demand at high RPMs. I have a video on replacing that filter on my channel Please write back if you figure it out. Or have more questions 👍🏽👍🏽

If you mean the main harness then No, however it does clip into the engine harness or ECU depending make and model.

Yes it does take one. Good eye, I noticed I didn’t put it for the video by mistake after I finished recording.

Glad it helped!!!!

Thanks for the tip!!

Not sure what the clicking is but if it’s a failing injector you could blow your engine. Id have it checked by a certified Yamaha tech.

So if you have weak spark on most of your cylinders or weak spark on one whole side then you want to look at the trigger/pulser coil. If the issue is on just one single cylinder then you will key in most likely on a single Ign. coil. Normally the pulser coil will weaken or completely kill one whole side of the outboard.

You can always move an ignition coil and see if the problem moves. If it does it’s the ignition coil.

@@ReelTeaseFishing Thanks you, any vids on how to test the stator and cdi just to make sure? I have the manual but am very new to outboards, the black and white diagrams leave a lot to imagination lol!

@@hellapellanyc6465 lol I hear ya! I do not have a video on it. It is abit more complicated than it sounds as there are a few variables. Testing the Stator can be done using a multi meter. In the manual it should have a diagram with proper values. However digging this Deep into an issue it may be best to drop it at a certified tech who may have a spare stator and CDI to try at no extra cost vs buying parts to try and two can diagnose your engine quickly. CDI in my experience is no real way to test unless with software.

@@ReelTeaseFishing thank you

If you use the correct gasket provided in the thermostat kit then it should be no issue. If you have a leak then you need to prep the surface. Using silicone gasket is not correct but in a pinch could work. I wouldn’t recommend it though

My thinking without seeing the actual plate is that is a 25” shaft 1991 outboard

@ReelTeaseFishing...yes its a 25 inch shift port side of the outboard name plate top left on the plate says 200.topright extp.bottom left 6g6 bottom right 7557 14.so if it's a 1991 I really thank you for that info

@@nwrx247 I believe it to be 1991 according to that info you provided

Bad Selonoid or clean the contacts on the trim wires

I believe 2 total for 200hp and less and 4 total for the higher HP HPDIs

I thought there was a total of 8 or 9 🤷‍♂️

@@ktmguy64 you have the same filters in each injector but the actual high pressure pump has either 2 or 4.

So probably 9-10 total

Zero gas should come out the rear of the pump. Fuel only travels to the hoses. It works on vacuume from the area it attaches to the engine block so it is not as steady as a mechanical pump. They are low pressure too.

Awesome! Thank you Please let me know what you find out. 👍🏽👍🏽

Can def be a symptom. These pumps are not electrical in any way. They just work on vacuum

@@ReelTeaseFishing o ok. With the ear muffs it works, spins the prop fast in gear but under load it cant. It sputters and dies. I cant even get it off the dock

@@finecrazygunz sounds like your issue is lack of power. Could be fuel restriction, could be voltage issue, Is this fuel injected?

@@ReelTeaseFishing yea 2003 sazuki df140 4 stroke

@@finecrazygunz if you have changed all the filters. I’d really look into your fuel. Rule out dirty fuel or water in fuel. Once that is not a factor I’d move to clean your fuel injectors. Don’t do injectors until you know the fuel is good or you will just dirty the injectors again.

Immediately this is telling me you have a fuel restriction issue or air fuel ratio is off. Is this a carburetor engine?

👍 yes

@@wyregrasser7540 Definitely check your fuel. If it’s older than a year old, I’d remove all fuel and put new fuel. That will eliminate the possibility of stale/old fuel. Also helps eliminate contamination on fuel as an issue. Secondly all fuel filters should be changed out for new. (Seasonal maintenance anyways, so not an added expense) I’d do a carb overhaul. Pretty simple if you buy the OEM carb kits and soak the carbs over night and use compressed air. Lastly I’d perform a link&sync on the outboard once the overhauled carbs are installed. This is all capable if you are somewhat mechanically handy. Will save you some money as well vs a shop. Some good carb overhauls and link&sync videos on CZcams. Go slow. Take photos to go back if you need to reference when putting it all back together.

@@ReelTeaseFishing I really appreciate your time, response and advice. Thanks tons!

@@wyregrasser7540 best of luck! Let us know if this fixes it or you find the issue

Yes as long as you retighten the relief screw

@@ReelTeaseFishing thanks for fast reply, best video btw

@@ThimBergstrom-ko1io thank you. Appreciate that 👍🏽

I purchased marine tinned cables and crimped the ends myself. If you measure your old cables you can buy the same size originals online. I had the tools so I just built em and saved some $. West Marine makes you custom sized cables too

If you are in the process of replacing anodes I’d highly recommend flushing without any anodes. Since anodes are considered sacrificial and are a weaker material they will be affected by the acids. Very minimally but best to flush without them

The belt drives the high pressure pump found on the HPDI outboard. In your case I think you are correct by replacing stator & pulser coil. A whole bank is the tell tale sign. Let us know if it fixes it 👍🏽

Changed stator , pulser , new plugs , worked , spark starboard bank

@@AlanBerner-hu3wy is it running now?

@@ReelTeaseFishing Yes , used stator and pulser did the job ,

@@AlanBerner-hu3wy heck yeah! Great to hear. Hope you enjoy your summer 🤟🏽

You have a fuel restriction. I’d be looking at fuel filters, fuel lines, fuel pump. Also pull some fuel out of your tank into a mason jar and look for signs of water or contaminants.

@ReelTeaseFishing I'll try the list of things you've suggested. I appreciate your helpful response.

​@ReelTeaseFishing just got off work and started to work on the boat. As soon as I loosened the bolts just a little on the fuel pump, gas started dripping out the pump. Gonna purchase a replacement pump then test again on the water. Thanks a lot.

@ReelTeaseFishing This update is mainly for the people who dig through comments to find answers to similar issues they are experiencing with their outboard. I put the replacement pump in then took the boat out on the water. The boat now goes full throttle and gets up on plain. It's running great! Thanks again.

@@dijoncameron8567 thank you for coming back and leaving an update. Comments like this that close the loop help those that may be experiencing the same or similar issue

I’m almost sure it worked! Let me know how it went 👍🏽

If you have the parts ready and layout a few towels. You should be able to do it. You gotta work fast to avoid spilling all the oil. It will leak once you remove the filter. When you start removing the hose from the filter use your finger to press on the end to stop the flow. It’s definitely messy but doable.

​@ReelTeaseFishing thanks for the help!!!

yes you are correct

great tip!

We did great, My last haul was in December as I had to pull the traps & get ready for a new addition to the family. Overall I think many people did really good this year! I would love to go commercial but I haven't worked under anyones license to be able to apply. I haven't heard anything on rule changes, but the way things are going,, we'd be lucky to keep anything in the near future. and I say that half jokingly

Yeah, that happens. Best bet is take it to a reputable shop. They can remove it and install a new one. Last thing you want is to damage your trim n tilt right before summer

Definitely can be a failing pump. Have you also considered completely rebuilding your carbs?

@@ReelTeaseFishing that’s the next step. But the carbs were rebuilt and cleaned and sync about 3 months before I got it from my uncle original owner. Iv had it for a year and it only sits during the week. I’m assuming it’s the original fuel pump. He said he’s never changed it. I’m going to unbolt it test the pump in the am. I know the compression is 125 in all 4. This problem has just recently started..

@@ReelTeaseFishing you have a video of you doing a complete rebuild on the 115/130 carbs

@@hunterherrera7863 I do not have a video but Yamaha carbs are all pretty straightforward. There are some good videos on CZcams of similar carbs being redone. Buy an OEM kit if you do it.

@@ReelTeaseFishing always OEM. On a car I’ll do after market. But the water heck no. 30 miles off shore is a long way to swim home. I might have did my self dirty when I bought some after market coils. So the wife is grabbing me a timing light as we speak and I’m swapping back to my good old coil. Making sure the idle timing is right. And testing the fuel pump making sure it’s not leaking the the vacuum hole. I have more smoke than normal. And that one sign. If I have to pull the carbs well then guess I’ll pull clean rebuild adjust and sync

Dripping from the fuel pump area? From the VST area, from a carb I’m not sure how I can help

@@ReelTeaseFishing it’s dripping from the bottom vst area. I think it’s dripping from the inside because I don’t see any visible leaks from the outside

@@ikelove1973 interesting. So the VST is two parts the top part separates and that takes a big oring/gasket that fails. Yamaha says it’s not reusable. Basically need a new one every time it’s opened for cleaning etc. also the VST has a lot of fuel hoses on the top side. If they are original, it could be cracked hoses or pinhole causing a leak. Lastly fuel pumps on the block could be leaking, making it seam as if it’s the vST

@@ReelTeaseFishing ok thanx for your help

if I get a 3.3 I will keep that in mind for a new video.