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Wow thanks!! I'm still amazed and happy that this thing is still helping someone out! Thanks again!!

Thanks very much

Well, if the springs are the same length as the OEM springs, which they should be, then the clickers should work exactly the same as before. I installed HyperTech progressive springs in my 09' and everything was the same length as the OEM springs. Rebound and compression are the same as before. There is a spacer in the GenII forks but I don't think there was one on my Gen I.

Thanks Jason! I'm glad this video is still helping guys and girls out!!

I've always broken that bolt while the fork is still assembled. Once the fork is open from the top I believe the internals spin along with that bolt. When everything is together it's easier to break it free.

I got it put had to shim the rod agaimst the tube and tighten the nut down to put tension on the rod. There was a bunch of debree on the bolt

@@jakemerrittttt Cool deal! Happy you got it out.

Wow, that was so long ago, but I believe that there was an Allen key screw which might have been in the exhaust hole itself. Look in the end of the pipe. I think it was alongside the inner pipe that is actually the insert. I hope my memory is correct. I haven't had that bike in a few years. Thanks for watching.

Because a lot of oil is retained inside the cartridge, it's really hard to release all the oil out with the forks on the bike. I know it's a bit of work but in the end you'll have it done correctly.

Thanks Vincent! I'm so happy that this video is still actually helping out other riders still. Thanks for the kind words.

Hahahaha! Just one buddy boy! But my buddy.......that's another story!!! Hahahaha!

That's Brian's wife's bike. The new Speed Triple. Sick bike I'll say that!! That thing is so much fun!

Thanks. It's really rare to see a buck out back. Almost always does.

Morning Rob! I haven't gotten the chance to ride further north but now you've given me some ideas!! Hahahaha!

Hello Duane. The best I can tell you is to use a propane torch and heat the circumference of the bolt and allow the metal to expand around the bolt. Then when it's good and hot, try and remove again. Let me know how it goes. I've used the torch on my friend's fork a few years ago and it did the trick.

@@yllib68 thanks man. I'll give it another go tomorrow. Thanks for the response.

@@duanespeck2316 just remember to heat the surrounding area around the head of the bolt and try to stay off the bolt itself. With a propane torch you can usually get accurate placement.

@@yllib68 ok so just the housing? Should i heat it from the bottom or on the sides?

@@duanespeck2316 yes, as much as you can stay away from the bolt head. Just heat the circumference around the bolt head. I put the tip of the torch in through the axle hole for a couple of minutes from each side and it broke the bolt free. Remember not to touch the bottom of the fork leg with your hands!!! That would hurt! Hahahaha!

My pleasure. I'm glad you liked it

My pleasure bud! I'm glad it helped someone else.

I'm glad it's still helping people out with their forks. Thanks very much!

Is the fork off the bike already? Did you remove the top cap yet? If you did, reinstall it and then remove the bolt. The internal cartridge is probably turning with the bolt.

Billy Ramirez hey billy yes it's off the bike and yes bolt is spinning with cartridge I'm thinking its factory fitting it might need some torch flame to loosen. What you say. Thanks again

@@agamurtuza8963 okay, so the fork is fully assembled? You only removed the fork from the triple tree and nothing else? The cap on top of the fork is on and is tight? Cause you said that the bolt was turning but not coming out. It really should not turn by itself and not loosen out. Are you sure the bolt head isn't stripped out and the Allen wrench is what is spinning?

Billy Ramirez hey billy bolt is absolutely fine I can feel the cartridge is turning from inside it's fully locked cap is locked it has all the spring pressure, only thing I think of is thread lock that's restraining it to fully come off the cartridge. I'm working on my 08 R1 as well it has the same issue so I had to buy a tool that locks cartridge then you can either lock or unlock. So I was thinking of showing some flame to it what do you have to say your idea is always welcome. Many thanks

@@agamurtuza8963 I would try a heat gun if you have one before hitting it with a torch. Once the thread locker melts it should come out. I hope. Let me know.

Thanks! It was a 12 week total rebuild but it was worth it.

@@yllib68 great to hear that! awsome bike !good job!!cool im starting strip down now! i bougth some parts online,but can i ask where you bougth your parts from,if they ship,, i need a new rear bowl with seat and have problems finding one here in norway,anyway,have a god day over there😀

Thanks for the kind words Julino. All of my parts I get from partshark.com Don't use aftermarket oil seals. Not worth the headache.

Yes the writing on the oil seal goes face up, correct. So glad that this video is still helping fellow FZ1 owners. Thanks for watching!

Thanks very much! You'll be fine. After the first time is finished, you'll have no fear about doing your forks ever again. Let me know how it goes.

@@yllib68 Fork rebuild successful! Wasn't as hard as I thought and now I know the internal workings. I used a combination of your 2 videos and the Haynes manual. Thanks again man, 5 yrs later and you're still helping people. Peace ✌

Hey there. I would imagine that if you were going through the trouble of changing the oil seal, you'd have to certainly drain the oil. At that point you're basically down to the core anyways so go ahead and replace the bushings as the Teflon wears off after time. As for the oil level it's simple. In order to have the exact about of fluid in each fork leg, it's so much easier to over fill, remove the trapped air, and then remove the excess oil. This way you know for sure that each side has the exact amount. Sometimes some oil stays behind in the valve system and damper rod which would give you the wrong amount of fluid if you were just to add the 435 mililiters and leave it as is.

Glad I could bring you back some cool memories! Can't wait till spring to get out there again!

Chris Fehr Not sure what you mean Chris. I had changed these once but only because I only had the bike for a couple of years. Just make sure you spray some penetrating oil in the bottom of the fork tube the day before you do it.

Thanks Bill, in the video you said you've done it 3 times, but not on the same bike then.

Thanks very much. I'm so glad this video is still helping guys out there get their seals done.

Z Green Sorry, the flat collar goes on after the Teflon bushing. Then you install the oil seal on top of that. Once you do your initial break down you'll see what it is. Nothing more than a flat washer really. I called it a collar.

Same here...

Balance Point 71 Yes, you must have the tube down all the way before measuring the fluid. Also back out your preload a couple of rings to start off with. Then you apply preload as you need it. I set mine back to stock settings and then set my Sag once the forks were back on the bike. You'll need an extra hand to set the sag. It sounds like you have your preload way too stiff.

Billy Ramirez . Thanks man. I just added to much oil. I'll take it back down tomorrow and reset the fluid level. I watched the video again and could see you topped it off with the tube down. No biggie.My mistake. Great tutorial. By the way. I tried cracking bottom bolts and it sounded. Did the socket taped to pipe trick and it worked like magic. I appreciate your help. Check out my Wheelie videos. I'll give you a shout out on my next one. Ride Safe!

Balance Point 71 My pleasure bud. I'm glad it helped you out. In the long run you save so much money doing it yourself and you get more satisfaction knowing you did it on your own. I'll definitely look for hope channel.

I reset the fluid level properly and all is well. Thanks for the help.

Balance Point 71 Awesome news! So glad to here that all is well. Now get out there and kill those wheelies! Safely that is.

Balance Point 71 Thank you very much. I'm happy that after all this time, that the video is still helping someone to do their own seals.

Everything went together great - I used a modified 1-1/4" PVC coupling to drive in the seals. The bushings for the sliders were a really TIGHT fit; I ended up using the seal driver over the large metal washer to drive those too. Thanks again for putting this together.

Thanks! Glad you liked it

Thanks David. I'm super happy that this "now ancient" video is still helping others. Nice job!

+Lindo Quetzal You can't Lindo. That's why I went with the Stockton Bleeder from CycleGear after using this one. If you read the comments you'll see where I changed over. Thanks for looking.

Lindo Quetzal we2aq