Video

The 29 i believe has similar mounting holes as the 26. So it'll work same. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Z8PVNV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's 10$ more then when i bought it. But a good rack. My suggestion though is to put the seatpost piece on first before starting to mount the legs onto the bike's frame. That way you'll have a easier 0ing of the extensions of the arms to know how far they'll need to slide out before tightening them down. And you won't need the frame clamps since the Hyper's frames will have the holes built in. All you'll need to do is just screw into those. Make sure to have the top frame extension arms to be in the inner of the rack since the frame V shape won't work well if the arms are screwed from the outside. Then screw the last racks arms from the far back to the outside. But before you mount all the arms. Make sure you slide the frame to your liking of how far it'll be to your seat. Two screws on the underside will hold it. I'd also probably remove the little end light bar metal bracket if you aren't gonna use it. Just be easier so it won't rattle if it gets loose. Since there is no thread locker on it.

The video is itself looks fuzzy is cause i was using Steamlink to my PC from my Motorola G100 in Desktop mode (Running Ready-For from the phone) to record from the phone itself through steam. So both this video and the last video ( czcams.com/video/iATH3nqs1z4/video.html ) were both taken from same device. Just that video was done on the phone itself, While this one was done using Steamlink from the phone to get the image to the phone to record. Steam must've condensed it bit cause my phone was on a 1600-900 display compared to my bigger PC display running at 1920-1080p. But i kept the Steamlink to stay working with same resolution the PC had instead of dropping it down. But in general this is only to the video playing itself and nothing related to the game itself. On the game it looks amazing. I normally run on TAA most time. Still don't like there is a slight blur feeling. Weirdly not sure why TAA has it also. But TSR is far worse. FXAA you won't get any blur and everything looks nice. But you get the AA pixelated grid feel. TAA makes that gone and feel more natural but for some reason it still has a bit of blur throw into it. You normally can see this with the dinosaur's head movement and slightly effects on the trees while running or turning. I could've recorded off the Win-G software. But didn't know at the time about it. And even now for some reason it loves to audio delay after around 4-5mins of a video. I don't know what good free desktop recording software there is. So yeah. lol.

​@@KillerRaptorri have some pretty bad motion blur in my game and I'm on a nvidia laptop it sucks :/

@@Ok-fn6ue Turn AA to FXAA ingame. TSR has really bad blur and somehow TAA also will. But TAA will be way less but still noticable. Only FXAA will not have any blur.

@@KillerRaptorr I do have FXAA enabled but there's still slight motion blur in the leaves and water

@@Ok-fn6ue It seems the newest update screwed lot of things up. FXAA is supposed to be less smooth and more jaggy on everything. I think the recent update swiped FXAA for TAA but halfway. And i just logged in recently to check (same spot as in my video) and seems the whole animations of trees have been removed so they don't sway anymore. So hopefully in a later patch it'll be corrected. But for now you'll just have to deal with the broken crap Path of Titans did. Unless you're on their Beta testing system (PC i know you can. I think there is a way for Mobile users but i don't know how.). Either way you should mention this problem with them as a report bug. That'll help them fix this stupid mistake they made. Hopefully it'll get corrected.

Sure there some who have done the half pull effect to fire arrows. Where you're not pulling all the way back like supposed to. But you're not gonna do much and might as well just use a recurve if you're gonna do that and it'd flex correctly and you won't risk loosing your hand in the process. But Compound bows flex patterns is the whole reason why you don't. They flex up and down. And wood arrows that have correct spin for the weight to fire ratio of the bow will flex to much for the compound bow to allow. IE it'd snap on the raiser and shoot into your hand or if lucky explode into the air upwards. It's reason why Carbon arrows and aluminum ones are more used due to the fact they are much stiffer and don't flex as hard to flex enough that'll hit the raiser handle grip while being thrown from the bow string. You can find some people who have done slow motion videos showing their shooting from Compound to Recurve. And you'll see the two flex styles of both bows. Recurve/Longbow/etc have a Side to Side flex pattern. Compound bows have a flex pattern of UP/Down. Overall i'd not keep doing that if i were you to keep your hands from likely being destroyed. If you read my video info text or even listened to my video. You'll understand why. But i also mentioned just above here it's all about the flex pattern that are different between a Recurve/Longbow/etc from a Compound bow. That's main reason no one is gonna use a Wood arrow on a Compound bow.

Look at my other videos. My Hyper E-Ride is upgraded to the beans. Dual motors, Dual Batteries, Trailer, Cargo, Cruiser style riding, and mountain bike ripping toughness. Changed from a basic 650$ bike to a insane monster.

@@KillerRaptorr well done sir I changed my fork for but I could not figure out how to keep breaks cut off for the front

@@hipoint45 The brake cut offs are built into the levers on your handlebars They are small little click switches just near the brake cable. That's why you see a black thin cable just under the large thick black cable on the top of the brake levers on your handlebars. The cutoffs are not related to anything else on the bike. But if you did end up changing the Brake levers. Then those tiny cables undernear the brake cables would need to be cut off in replace for the new brake levers which won't have the switches inside and you won't have the motor shut off while riding. So if you changed the fork. Yeah nothing to worry about when changing the fork's brakes from V-brakes to cable pull disc brakes. All you would need to do on that is just swipe the metal cable inside the black cable housing on the brake levers. Then put the new longer cable wire and new cable housing together to the new disc brake system. Then the brake lever works as normal and will cut off as just as it was before.

@@KillerRaptorr I took off v break ordered a c break from web and drilled hole in the connecting pice of the shock and mounted c break breaks work now...just not cut off for frt. but rear cut off works fine. hard to explain but it works / i dont think ill build my bike up like your TANK lol but thanks for the ideas

@@hipoint45 Show me a video what you did. Might be able to figure why.

Huh???

@@KillerRaptorr In the video, you talk about turning on and off an "IOS". But the acronym is IDS, short for Inertial Dampening System. The system you turn off to drift freely and turn on to control your inertia.

@@proteusblack8913 Oh! Right. Thanks!

Gear icon. Data, go to the game. Delete it whole. Restart console. Replay Mario Kart 8. Should work like normal. Also make sure the disc is clean with a microfiber cloth..

For Xbox users their controllers are LT RT. So Triggers i guess you are right. But Playstation's are L2 R2. Nintendo is ZL ZR. But in full i think they'd be more like Rockers or Flippers. Since each company has different wording to them. Although Nintendo GameCube's were more sliders since they slide inside the controller and apparently had a button to mesh into. Compared to Sony's and Microsoft's Xbox controllers have 0 button on the back when you 'click' them all the way back.

Bye.

Uh Thanks?

Is this really a question or you just pulling my butt cause it's funny? Cause this sounds moronic. (*Pokes your head*) Maybe use that guy and get back to me on that. pffffff.

@@KillerRaptorr i never thought id be make fun of just cause i asked this, nvm

@@gabrielpanagsagan9741 Just seemed like you were pulling my leg on this kind of question instead of it being legit. But if you wanna know. It's pretty optimized game. Only thing i noticed is the hickup lag that happens at times due to the server system mainly. I'm running 12gen intel with 16gb ddr5 4800mhz 3070rtx graphics laptop. But last time i tested this on pretty good performance. I was running around medium on a AMD 2500 cpu 16gb ddr4 2400mhz memory and Radeon RX 560X. That's roughly comparable to a 1050-1060mq gtx gpu. So anything around a 1070gtx and above will likely be good. But do make sure to do bit of research on testing comparison charts from. www.notebookcheck.net/GeForce-GTX-1050-Laptop-vs-Radeon-RX-560X-Laptop_7503_8810.247598.0.html like this site. Helps a TON to understand the amount if numbers each has over the other. But as for most CPU's anything of a I-5 or ryzen 5 and above will work fine. For Memory. Doesn't need to be either. DDR4 or DDR5 will do. But must at least be 16gb ram at the lowest. More ram would give a slight better performance. Also as for AMD vs Intel CPU's. I guess it doesn't truly matter. Most like the AMD's for cheaper but pretty powerful. But weirdly Intel is optimized for Windows 10 and 11. So it might be slightly conflicting if you pick AMD over Intel. But AMD has been over coming Microsoft's bullcrap. So i'm sure AMD will work ok. But if you run into any hick ups. That's likely the reasoning. Same with AMD's GPU's. They have some weird ends at times. Which also is another thing. AMD gpu's are good in normal performance. But when coming to Raytracing. They'll fall about 70% down behind Nvidia. So don't expect to really use Raytracing ever on AMD. (Also no Path of titans doesn't has Raytracing yet. so it won't matter.)

@@KillerRaptorr ohh i was talking about phones, but i do appreciate all that infos

@@gabrielpanagsagan9741OH! Well that i'm not sure really. This was using a Samsung S20 ultra. Which spec wise has a Snapdragon 865 cpu. Memory is 12gb. GPU is Adreno 650. But if you need to check what your phone specs might be near to. Try this site. nanoreview.net/en/soc-compare/qualcomm-snapdragon-865-vs-qualcomm-snapdragon-8-gen-3 Helps ton for comparing cpu's of phones. Though Mediatek, Samsung cpu's, and Apple's. their numbers on the gigaflops might be weird. But all i know is most of the higher end cpu's will work well for the game with max settings and 30-60fps modes if you're getting a high tier phone like a samsung Galaxy S22-23-24 or Motorola Edge+ 2022-23, etc. My ultra phone still works well on max settings at 30fps. So recent phones will just shred in the performance for future proofing. Also don't try to run the game on 60fps when using it as a handheld device. If you get a Motorola or Samsung with the special desktop mode. Then use the game in the desktop mode (By using a USB-C hub and HDMI to a bigger display.) and put the phone down on a cooling fan (Make sure the case isn't thick so it can cool the phone well). Then you can run the game at 60fps. But other then that keep it at 30fps when using it as a standard handheld. Cause 60fps mode makes the phone heat up 3-4x hotter then 30fps mode does.

You know the notice window when you drop down to read messages. It'll say to switch from Screen+ to Mirroring mode. Click that and it'll then just mirror the phone as like any other phone would for Screen-Cast/Smart View. There will be a small circle bubble when in this mode for the phone to change the resolution from Full screen on TV or fullscreen on phone. When in fullscreen on TV. It'll put black bars on the top/bottom of the phone into a 16.9 aspect ratio. But it'll full blow on the screen casted device. If you do the other way. It'll put bars on the top/bottom and maybe on the left side slightly due to the camera bump. But the phone on the other hand will stay the same. Once you change the setting from Screen+ to screenshare. It'll always revert to using the last mode. So when you do screenshare again. It'll start only on screen mirroring if it was last used. Or do Screen+ if you had it last selected mode and closed out of it. So won't need to keep switching off Screen+ once you leave and come back. This is way more handy then it was for back in the older days for Samsung. Their smartview didn't have the option to change this. (Now it does.). So it made streaming full screen on the TV way better when playing say Geforce Now, etc. Since in Screen+ you couldn't have the lower taskbar get removed unlike on Samsung/Motorola's desktop modes. So it was kinda annoying. The only faults when screen casting. Unlike samsung. Is the phone screen always is on. So careful of keeping it on and running hot. Else the phone screen might build up screen burn-in problems. Though you could fix it by leaving the color shifting screen saver on and it being plugged in and forcing the screen to stay on when plugged in (which has the option for that.).

@@KillerRaptorr wow thanks for the tip i will try your suggestions and report back once i figure it out, i wanna use my phone has a tv streaming device since most if not all current tv streaming devices are under powered and only run on a 32bit OS even tho their CPU can support 64bit OS.

@@blaze2051Difference isn't in the OS 32 or 64bit. I think you're getting mixed up on Computers vs stream systems. Computer's using 32bit OS's aren't great in multi-tasking so they don't run so many things at once. a 64bit can and also can use more memory to their ability. A streaming system from either a smart TV or a little media stick. Are pretty much gonna do the same thing. 1 real task and that's pretty much it. A phone is more built to run more tasks at once. Within a reasonable ability. But you can't 'cast' 1 app to the TV and run a completely different system on the phone. Unless you're using Screen+ mode. But there is a hitch to the deal. If you click something on the phone. You'll need to reclick via mouse to the screen+ thing again. Though a video playback will work fine on Screen+ while you mess on the phone. But you cannot do the same via phone to screen+. So you can't watch a amazon prime/netflix/etc from via the phone while you're clicking on screen+ stuff. It'll instantly stop the video playback.

@@KillerRaptorr that is why im not using screen mode but mirror mode

Yup. But all the good stuff is in the back lol.

Uh......What? The Shift's shifting system is for Free-Wheel free pedal spin like a standard bike does. Then when the Shift is locked. It goes into Fixed wheel mode. Meaning the pedals now spin the same rotation speed as the wheel does. This 'Fixed wheel mode' makes the pedals spin with the wheel. Allowing you to 'Reverse' backwards at stops or use the pedals as a 2nd means of slowing down if you're on a slow pace ride. Instead of using the handle lever brake that is V-brake rim-brakes.

Wrong video if you're looking for the modes for the Metro-Pro modes. czcams.com/video/LZ2mOhHfWkU/video.htmlsi=V5FLmDDU7tZ1CgHb&t=259 I'm surprised you came to this video vs the real Cygolite video i made just before this. This is just talking about how a dumb company is pretending to be 'cheaper' but 'better' then Cygolite.

Need to have less then 3000 speed. Else you will explode. So once you start to get in the planets entry burn. Keep a slow pace. Don't rush yourself in.

thx!

If you watched the video you'd know. Asking this is just showing you how stupid you are. And this isn't a review. I don't really do reviews unless it's gonna be a hour or two+ video explaining indepth details about it (AS a review is about.). In simple though their charge controllers built into the cells (the AA's NOT the charger.) are pretty crappy. And yes the charge controllers are inside the batteries. Not the unit their sitting on. The box to 'charge' is just direct 5volts to the AA's. Nothing more. Which means they can be charged from any other 5volt direct USB charger like Tenavolts (which i tried. and they do work. But still have the iffy flickering charging problem due to their built in charge systems.) It's not as bad since Tenavolts charger box isn't as springy as the Amps to allow them to roll or fiddle around as easily. But Amps still will go into a 'Overheat/slow charge' at random. Even when it isn't overheated. meaning Amps batteries and charge controller units BMS built in each cell are crap because even without fiddling with them. 10seconds later they'll start flashing for ZERO reason. Not because their over heated or can't get enough current. The reason why i showed me spinning them is cause ZERO batteries should be flipping out from a spin test. They aren't being removed from their current or charging ability so they aren't losing power. I'd done the exact same spin on TenaVolts and nothing happened. Done on standard rechargeable NIMH of all types nothing happened. Only AMP's have flipped out due to their crappy charging functions. But congrats on showing how dumb you are for someone like me to explain to your tiny mind on how Chargers and AA/AAA's work. Lol. You just learned a new thing about Lithium AA/AAA's. Congrats.

CD, Or download. Try deleting the game data and see if it works after that. If it's a CD check the CD for scratches and the disk is shiny. If it's a download try deleting it and redownloading it. If it's also a download. Please make sure you have a compatible external storage device. Which is using it's OWN power supply vs a Dual USB plug to the console. Dual USB plug storage device is not recommended and might cause problems. Make sure to have a external drive that is using a another wall outlet plug for the storage unit.

@@KillerRaptorr uhm how do i delete the game data its a disc by the way

@@felixhuy9247 Same as as you delete digital. Settings, Game data. Find game. Delete whole folder.

If i'm getting this correctly. You say you play the gamepad on your bed. IE that means when you are using WII games you use the gamepad as it's sensor bar system and play from a short distance away AS intended. Or are you NOT using the gamepad to play Wii-Games and only Wii-U games with game pad? Max range the gamepad can go is within 30feet LINE OF SIGHT direction of the Console. That is when it's Open space and you can basically see it or you're within less then 15feet from it in another room through a wall (Wood). But this 30feet of line of sight range can also be decreased by Other Wifi signals since the Wireless transmitting systems on the Wii-U gamepad to the console are 5Ghz. While the console can only do NORMAL Wifi 2.4ghz for internet. The gamepad get's 5ghz from and to the console for super fast response. But with newer tech of relying more solo on 5ghz this is gonna cause problems with the gamepad since when the Wii-U was made 5ghz wasn't really a focus option for internet style just yet. 5ghz and 6ghz were marely for basic devices like home wireless phones. But since it's been brought to light for many other usage now then just the old style home wireless phone pads. That means Many devices now use the 5ghz spectrum and can cause Wireless confliction for the 5ghz wireless connection on the gamepad. Even if it's not the much of the same channel just being near similar 5ghz signal, Just like 2.4ghz has can conflict at times being to many within the same area of effect. Which can in turn cause the range of it's power strength to be decreased by quite a bit. Also do not have the Wii-U console behind a TV As that is metal and 2.4ghz/5ghz/6ghz aren't like 80/100/900mhz where metal HELPS improve their strength. The 2.4ghz/5ghz/6ghz will be dramatically reduced by over 40% just by being behind a TV due to it's metal shielding coating which will absorb the signal into the metal instead of helping it bounce. Not to mention the gravity of the console being either BELOW a desk. Or ABOVE a desk also has a dramatic effect on signal. Higher the object the better it can throw the signal about. If putting it on room floor that decreases it's function signal throw. So for simple. Move the console more towards the location that you supposedly wish to use to 'play' at if you supposedly play on the bed using the gamepad. And don't have your phone nearby it with you on Wifi.

I use the gamepad to play Wii U and Wii games. and also i have my Wii U console on my second desk where i have my Wii, and my PS5 Hooked up to as well, so I can just pretty much see the Wii U right in front of me while I play on my bed. However, I do have a secondary wi-fi. however it's a Verizon MiFi which supports 5g and 2.4g. Would it be recommended to use 2.4 since you said "the console can only do NORMAL Wi-fi 2.4ghz for internet."? Because I use spectrum Wi-Fi for my Wii U, and you also said that 5ghz would cause more problems with the Wii U gamepad since the Wii U wasn't a focus option for internet style with 5ghz.

@@elijahdoesthings ===I use the gamepad to play Wii U and Wii games. and also i have my Wii U console on my second desk where i have my Wii, and my PS5 Hooked up to as well, so I can just pretty much see the Wii U right in front of me while I play on my bed.==== GIVE the Wii-U console itself some roooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooom to breath. Don't stack it near another console so close. ====However, I do have a secondary wi-fi. however it's a Verizon MiFi which supports 5g and 2.4g. Would it be recommended to use 2.4 since you said "the console can only do NORMAL Wi-fi 2.4ghz for internet."? Because I use spectrum Wi-Fi for my Wii U, and you also said that 5ghz would cause more problems with the Wii U gamepad since the Wii U wasn't a focus option for internet style with 5ghz.==== And what you think this will do besides limit ALL the rest of your devices from not getting 5ghz then if you switch them to 2.4ghz? Not to mention PS5, PC, etc still throw 5ghz signal out. So it wouldn't do much to disable 5ghz on your Mifi and Wifi's. Just give the Wii-U some room from the Mifi or PC/PS5/etc's boxes so the Wireless signals don't conflict. For instant i don't know if you got 2 two way radios. But if you ever tried speaking on 1 while holding the other one almost 3 inches away from the other you get a loud EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. That's cause it's conflicting eachother. Same as the Wifi signals from devices. It's like putting 5 wireless dongle devices on a single USB hub so close together. That can sometimes cause conflicting and decrease it's range performance by alot. Like i mentioned above. Give it some breathing room. Including from other consoles. Not a great idea to ever stick consoles almost touching eachother apart. Or stacked on eachother. But the question remains is. When it 'lags' does it also start showing the wireless connection screen for a brief moment before switching back to the game. Saying something like connection poor or lost connection?

@@KillerRaptorr I'll find a way to give my wii u some room since i don't really have anywhere else to sit it. Also, the "lag" most of the time would be the gamepad stuttering for 2 seconds, then stops temporarily. I don't know why but it has been happening ever since I took my gamepad to my kitchen, which is pretty far from my room, which was were obviously the stuttering started to happen. At first I thought it was just the issue with the game, but then I realized that It was the gamepad. One time it only said lost connection, and I had to restart my whole Wii U gamepad. before i watched this video, I was reading a post on GameFAQS and someone said that it was because of the Wi-Fi interface. That's kind of why I thought that switching my Wi-Fi would work

Seeing you're mentioning Amazon. This is a DISC. And if you're having large freezing or none loading performance on the 'Disc' it might be due to the disc itself. Do make sure to see if the disc is scratched up or the top cover is ripped on the disc itself. Other games work correctly yes? If so that means the main topic is the Mario/Luigi-U game itself. You likely got a bad disc or it's been tampered with from someone trying to rip data off it or something else. Amazon also cannot do anything when you buy off JUST the Seller (aka Shipped and sold By seller.) They can only help maybe get you a replacement or refund if it's been (Sold by Seller / Shipped by Amazon.), Amazon has 0relations when it's just sold/ship by the seller. Think of Amazon as a Ebay site. If you buy JUST by the seller it can be iffy. If you buy from a seller that has fulfillment by amazon done that means they went through amazon to ship their package of the item to a Amazon warehouse and is held by amazon and the payments are done BY amazon themselves. Then once the process of payment is done Amazon then pays the seller. Make sure to buy 'NEW UNOPENED' game. Not 'Refub/Used/Preowned/Etc'. This'll insur your game won't be tampered with OR scratched up. Blue-Rays (As Nintendo DOES use.) have a thicker rubber coating on the read side to prevent easier scratching. But it is still a SOFT rubber and deep fingernails can rip or dent that surface up and cause failure reading in points.

This doesn't exactly tell me much other then you downloaded and wanna delete. Is this DIRECTLY downloaded to the Wii-U drive space? or on a optional drive via USB to a hard drive caddy for a HDD or SSD. If it's a USB drive. Do nothing on the case. Format the drive itself via a PC and then once you did a FULL format on the PC end to the drive. Format the drive for the Wii-U. Also the USB drive needs one of those POWERED caddy's. Not a dual USB port on. Those tend to have problems. And it cannot run self USB 1 port either. No USB Thumb drive either. If it's downloaded to the Wii-U Drive. Remove any optional USB devices plugged into it and also disable or remove your Wifi option first. Then go into the storage area and try deleting it.

It’s a disc game that needed an update. While trying to update, the system froze. I turned the system off, and the update data got corrupted. I now have to delete the corrupted data so I can try and redownload the update. I can’t though because the system keeps freezing. Does this help?

@@BrodyIzod Are you trying to DELETE the whole game file. Or just partial piece of it? Delete the full game file WITHOUT the game inside the system and again NO internet or 3rd party stuff plugged into the console.

@@KillerRaptorr I can’t play the game. The system won’t download the data without freezing.

I can’t do anything without it freezing.

I'm not sure if this is real or just a joke. Whichever though is whatever.

Is this even a question? Wii-U has the console and gamepad. Lots of stuff require the gamepad. There is only few things you can do without. But still the whole console requires it. Though if you use it specific for Wii Mode only. Then no.

Not sure who's the moron you're meaning but i don't have a reddit account to post. Nor have i posted on that webtarded site. So....... Yeah.

Disco or Digital? Downloaded on console or external drive. External drive SSD or HDD. Need details bud.

I bought my Wii U and It came with the disk version of bo2 I do not know much bout it but I just wanna fix it

@@DanielHerrera-i9h Check the discs for any scratches. If it still doesn't load if it's clean from any kind of scuff or finger prints. Then try using a different disc game in it and see if that loads/runs.

Tell me all specs of the device. CPU/GPU/Memory/Display resolution of screen and resolution the game is set as. And if you have overcloaked any related tools of Memory/Cpu/GPU systems. What is your GPU driver version. If you don't know any of this. Look it up! And when you finally figure it out comment back and i might be able to pinpoint a problem.

Firstly this laptop does not have a Discrete GRAPHICS. This is more likely a business laptop built for worksheeting more then anything. So gaming isn't likely a thing for this. I would suggest to get one with a REAL Graphics (Aka Discrete Graphics system.) Or buy this game for PS4-5, XboxONE, S-X series systems, Or for Android/IOS(Apple mobile) for tablet/Phone with a Snapdragon 865 and higher CPU. ------------------------------------------------ I wouldn't exactly run it from that laptop. But if your crazy to and aren't gonna complain of the low graphics and bad performance. It'd likely run low on 1080p resolution. Maybe medium in some cases. But nothing likely more then low. Which is why you should avoid that and just likely use the above 3 systems instead. If you fork for a samsung phone or tablet (S series tablet. and Galaxy phone or Fold.) You can use Samsung Dex to run on a bigger display (TV,etc) and play like a powerful version of a Switch. (Avoid the Switch version as it's basically running the game on roughly medium graphic settings for a mobile device. Phone or tablet with the above CPU's will run the game on Epic of stable 30fps or good 60fps.) And the phone/tablets can bluetooth to a Xbox controller system without any problems (avoid elites.) or PS4-5 ones.

@Terrorizerrr I kinda already explain that. You are right that people should do some research on their devices......... But lot of people are so stupid they don't. Even then they watch youtube videos and try to do custom build desktops to only have it blow up in their face. But you kinda missed his laptop. It's for computing as in Office work. It's a pretty ok spec system. But it's far from gaming wise since it's more to do with intensive cpu work loads then gpu rendering. Not a bad laptop. Just not in the right department of powerhouse. Also they didn't 'buy' that laptop just now. They had it and wanted to know if it was compatible. I mean on the CPU IGPU itself it 'could' do some games. Heck Eve Online and some older 2010- games it will run ok at maybe low to medium. But modern games yeah need a bit more punch from a true GPU system. Anything of 1050 nvidia or 550x amd would work for path of titans at high details. If you're not wanting to play the remake of Battlefield games with ultra 4k graphics. Then a low mid-range gpu will work fine with a mid-range cpu. But yes 16gb of ram is the lowest i would say for gaming. 8gb is beyond to low.

If you're turning the console on via the console itself vs the gamepad ONLY. Then that's why. Try Resyncing the controllers by pushing the Red button on the console THEN the controllers. Might need to hold the controllers resync button till the LED's blink on the pad and controller.

I'd recommend looking for a laptop/desktop with a Discret GPU. Aka Nvidia or AMD. AMD/Intel IGPU (Integrated) aren't recommended for these kinds of games. Unless you plan to struggle to play it at lowest of resolution/settings and still barely grab 30fps. Or get a phone/tablet with a Snapdragon 865 gpu or higher spec. No matter having a high 16GB ram. The IGPU shares with the internal ram and doesn't work so well. Having a Discret GPU not only runs it's OWN ram. But focus on it's own performance vs sharing that with display video, etc like the IGPU does. This game can also be bought on Xbox and PS systems with PC-like graphics. Switch has low end graphics of a mobile system so i'd avoid it if you already can fork for a good phone and wide screen it to a bigger display then pair with a Xbox/PS controller. (A Samsung Galaxy or Motorola Edge can do so with Dex/Ready-For modes.)

@@KillerRaptorr Thank you so much for answering! This is very helpful. Getting a GPU is in my plans, but my country's economy isn't economying💀 So, It'll take some time. Thanks again!

The Mobile Shift is the only Mobo by the company that has a 'Shifter' system because it has a 'Reserve tech' system that allows it to 'Lock' the front wheel as a Fixie tricycle for kids do where the wheel and pedals turn exactly same time to allow for forward or reserving. Then the shifter can deactivate it by undoing the lock and allow the tricycle to freewheel as a standard modern adult bike does where the pedals don't move but the wheel spins freely. czcams.com/video/qz0lk_I8Q6U/video.html Here i show the 'Shift' locking system. The axle to the tricycle is once piece with a welded shield. It also has a standard freewheel (Singlespeed) on the right hand that a ring has 4screws that screw onto the axle shield. This allows the pedals to transmit the power to the freewheel and spin the wheel. There are also grooves on the left side where the locking shift is so the shift plate can push onto the wheel's other end to lock the pedals inplace to the wheel itself for Fixed mode/Reserve mode. How the design of the bike is doesn't allow for optional Freewheel gearing to be placed because it needs to have that extra ring to slam inbetween the freewheel's 'Chain' teeth to screw into the axle's welded shield so it can function the pedals. It's how they get the whole 'No Chain' system. But they still use the standard singlespeed freewheel hub design and wheel. So the wheel is still a rear bicycle freewheel hub with a threaded hub system. But the left piece normally where you'd put a disc brake is another piece i think is also a threaded system that has the 5screw lock slot system to allow the shift locker to groove into. Either way The company behind Mobo Triton Pro (adult) and Shift aren't likely to ever come up with anything new. It's been years of false promise of getting a supposed 'Geared' version wheel or new front wheel geared tricycle version for years. I think i even talked about two systems that would've been great. But nothing. Not to mention the way these kind of front wheel dependent tricycles are designed. They aren't good for Speed. Trying to reduce the amount of turn grab these have compared to tadpols have (The standard reserve tricycles for adults.) Is insane much. Going over 7mph and trying to do a little turn. Your arms are gonna get sucked into it and likely flip you. So finding ways to reduce the grab turn effect at higher speeds is hard without impacting your smooth turning effect. Right now the Shift has a screw down in the middle of the arms to 'press' into the wall of the middle piece to make 'drag' effect of turning so it makes it harder to turn or get sucked into a turn. But no one wants that. And the springs they have just mainly help it to rebound back into a straight way. But those don't help decrease the turn grab effect when you're turning and get sucked into it more. Not to mention these only have pedals on the front wheel. So your weight to power ratio is 30% to 70%. You don't got much traction on the front wheels for much hill climbing performance since most of the weight is shifted back. And even if you did manage to get more traction to the front wheel. You'd be required to put even more bicycle weight near to the front which would make it tougher to pedal in general. So as they mention. This is mainly a good tricycle for those kind of adults who wanted to get that Green-machine kid tricycle feel again and mainly on places with good flat roads. Anything else and this is a hard hard pass. This is more of a joy cruise ride tricycle then anything else. Compared to the real reserve style Tricycles that everyone uses as standard bicycles that sit down. These are marely more for a 'Toy' for adults. They aren't fast, or for large distance riding, or hilling, or offroading. Just marely a sidewalk stroller at a slow pace to enjoy that kid feel again inside you. I do wish they did come out with a 'Speed' version or a 'Off-road' version where they'd have gears and better weight shifting. But it's been years. Even then i bet there'd still be complains of the bikes being something of something problem. Either to heavy since the off-road would need a counterweight system to move forward for better grip for the front power wheel. Or the Speed having similar to just harder to turn problems at speed since there'd need to be a way to kind of remove the turn grab effect the tricycles get at higher speeds that make it every little twitch will suddenly suck you into turning the tricycle. Or something based on it just doesn't have enough gears. If you're looking at these to use as a True adult tricycle/Trike. Avoid. As mentioned these are more for those looking to get the kid in them again and mainly screw around. If you want a real tricycle for cross country touring or something for long distance hauling or making into a cargo deal or anything else. Get the bigger tadpol reserve tricycles. Those are built to stand up similar to standard sit up bicycles. I seen people make those into electric, cargo haulers, to even having RV-like trailers. And they don't have the same problems of going uphills since all the power is in the rear wheel. Compared to Mobos where the power is in the front. So these Reserve styles have all the weight needed in the back for the wheel to get traction. Though stopping can be a bit tricky since you kinda slide if using the rear to stop all the time. And the front wheels can kinda 'throw' you forwards if you end up stopping to fast. But in all they have gears, weight to power traction, and flexibility of a standard bicycle. Sorry for the long info. But hope it helps.

There is a simple fix. Get yourself some CA light or medium glue. Unscrew it and take the little swivel head off. Then dab the glue in and around the surface of the mount piece. Put the head back on and screw the screw down. Turn it to the way you want it and leave it for a period of time. Once it dries you won't have that problem anymore. Again CeCo is ripping off from Cygolite's old tech stuff and cloning it to their own way. Their handlebar straps aren't the best. Compared to Cygolite. You'd have better results from them. But both have the same middle screw mount to allow the head to 'twist' side by side. It helps to fit on different style of handlebars to allow the head to twist into the right direction. But the above method will work if you aren't planning to swipe the clamp on 20 other bikes and keep it attached to a single bike for it's lifetime. Most companies have a Screw on the head of the mount to allow it to 'twist' so you can adjust the left/right turning if the light isn't exactly posed straight out since the handlebars are a bent style vs the straight out ones. like some mountain bikes or cruisers that bend towards the rider.

​@@KillerRaptorrI appreciate the advice. I have considered glue and will do that before my next night ride. My concern is not that that ripping off ideas from another company. My concern is that, in the case of the f2000, they are doing so poorly. Even more of a concern is that they don't seem to care. Heck, I really haven't a problem with the light itself other than the claimed 2000 lumens isn't enough for speed rides with lots of twists.

@@robertrenfrow8621 The F2000 uses the same exact mount as their other flashlights. They have never had thought in how strong their mount was before releasing the higher lumen output lights with DUAL LED's (aka 2x 1000's). Which is even 2x heavier then their standard F1000 version. Their just copying CygoLite to 'look' better because they're trying to pass off as being Cheaper but 'Good' as Cygolite's Ranger's versions that have proven mounts to hold up the heaver dual lens lights. It's why Cygolite stood their ground on keeping the same mount system. Compared to CeCo who made a strap mount that is pretty much crap. Also yeah i wouldn't count on CeCo's claims to be true. Seeing their using outdated Cygolite tech of Cygolite's first generation Metro lights's components for their supposed 'New' lights. They probably are way off the lumen scale in brightness. Also not to be a butthole. But 2000 is more then enough for a 10 mph ride in the woods. If you're going 20-30mph+ at night. You're just asking to get yourself killed no matter if having good lights. But if you do apparently wanna get more lights. Fork into getting another for getting a helmet mount for the next one so you can strap that to your head and have more directional control. I would say Strap 2 2000's on the handlebars and a extra on the helmet (They do make helmet mounts. ATLEAST Cygolite does. CeCo i dout.). You'd probably only get a max of a hour of runtime on them. But you'll get somewhere around in the ballpark of 6000lumens. You'd have enough room on the front handlebars and a helmet light for knowing the future pathway lit up + 4000lumens on front directional lighting. Or you could go even more overboard and put two of the CeCo's on the fork (on the shock arms just below the dampeners.) and point them down alittle. Then your handlebars will have room for 2 more lights. IE you'll have 5lights for over 10,000 lumens. It's one of the things i was thinking of for my Hyper E-Ride upgrades is probably getting some Nite-Riders to strap on the front wheel legs so they would light up the wheel area. That'd give me room for 4x lights on the handlebars and a light on the helmet. + to amber lights strapped to the fork legs to for a similar 'car' effect of the blinker-run lights or a motorcycle. But in all i'd never really run all my lights on High during a standard road ride. 10,000 lumens + would be death to cars. Even 1000lumens can be pretty offputting. So normally low to medum is prefect for onroad ride or a slow off-road ability.

@@KillerRaptorr again, I appreciate it. Also I don't road ride. My rides are all mountain bike with downhill scenarios and yes high speed is involved. If you build your skills up it generally isn't a problem. You do, however, need a good light. I ride with multiple people who run Magicshine and from what I've seen and read, that's my next light.

That's probably because this 'Dumbo' is the only brainful one here to show them. But if you're coming to this dumbo. Wouldn't that make you even more dumb? Ironic.. Maybe next time Ask a question instead of being a twit. Would be more respectful and wouldn't make you look stupid in the whole dealo.

Wood is gonna be weak shaft because it's very flexible. It's ment to flex and bend to correct it's flight characteristics. The whole point of a arrow is to wiggle. Without the wiggle it's useless. The wiggle and feather/vanes both help it correct itself while in flight. If you had a shaft to stiff it won't fly correctly and will turn to much in one direction. That's why arrows are specific to weight of the bows. Even carbon shafts are weaken to be required to shoot from lesser pound bows correctly so they flex just right. For instant. My Purple arrows of the Allen company sweetness are pounded to 30-50pounds. This fits the grounds of my 30-40pound recurve bow. If you shoot a arrow to less. The carbon will flex to much and snap. If you have a arrow that is higher poundage then the bow. The arrow won't flex as much aka be to stiff and won't fly correctly. So even if you supposedly had a strong wooden shaft arrow. It won't be specific to the bow and shooting in a compound would still be super risky since the flight characteristics of the flex pattern to a compound bow is Up/Down. Compared to what it should be shot out of a recurve/longbow/etc that flight characteristics is left/right. You have very little wiggle room on a compound bow to shoot off. While a recurve/etc has tons of room since the arrow twists left/right around the riser. Vs going DOWN into your arm and up to the sky. So even if you did manage to fire from a compound bow. The shaft won't respond well to the flight and it won't fly correctly where you wont it. So in total it's really pointless in all. Since the shaft weight and bow weight won't be evenly correct to let the arrow fly correctly.

Texture Filtering. Put Texture Filtering anisotropic sample optimization to 'ON'. Texture Filtering - Negative LOD Bias to 'Allow' Texture Filtering - Quality to 'High Quality' Then Texture Filtering - trilinear optimization 'ON' Retry with these settings. (3 of these do mention they give better imaging. If you don't see any 'shimmering' If so turn them back to default.) TSR isn't the way to go. Firstly as i mentioned to the guy below. TSR is similar to FSR. It's a optimization tool of AA to give it similar sharpness to TAA but with induce Blurr effect to reduce performance needed on lower end hardware. FXAA is worse then AA simple sampling. It tries to make AA look good with slight better performance because it meshes everything around into itself. Blurring the edges slightly but not to good. TAA will be the best because what you think is 'blurry/unsharp' is the idea of the TAA AA system. It's to remove the edges on all graphic pixels to make things look 'smoother' So stuff doesn't look like a huge pixeled mess of crap. It doesn't really have blurr the trees just 'wave' and you think it's blurry but it's not. Besides if you got a 4080 then you don't need to use TSR or FXAA. TAA will destroy the cruddy AA pixelation and make things more realistic. (Also please tell me you do not have a AMD CPU................These are hard problems with Windows 11. AMD will take a year or so to fix alot of the bullcrap that Microsoft has optimized mainly for Intel systems. (Yes Intel doesn't have crap as AMD dealing with .) So..... If you got a AMD the graphical problems could also be that..Alot of games people tend to have random problems with AMD cpu's. Another best thing to do if you're using a Laptop with USB4 and video ports. If you're only using the laptop display. Try overriding it by plugging a external display into one of the video ports (Not the USB4/Thunderbolt port. This only connects to the CPU system display.). Then see if the graphical problems are gone. (Or you can go into your bios and put it on discret display mode vs optimize mode.))

@@KillerRaptorr Thank you for the quick and detailed answer! As soon as I use TAA, the grid line problem disappears and the stones load in "okayish" too- BUT even with the Nvidia settings you mentioned, my characters Texture starts to blur a bit. I tried out every single variation in the Nvidia settings but could not come to a fix. I have an Intel i7 btw I do not like AMD lmao. :D

@@-Sicko. So the character textures don't blur while FXAA ingame? I think TAA fixes all the edges the game's refresh makes a realistic blur feel when moving the camera around since there isn't anymore edgy lines anymore. It mesh the picture to feel more real to normal camera throw. So things will seem like it's motion blur slightly.. It's not gonna have a super static sharp to it like FXAA does. So you'll have a con in that. But it'll help bring more things less static looking and ridged. This'll help let you see things in the distance much better because you won't see all the lines and edges scattered from the AA being so poor. You don't have dynamic resolution ingame on? V-sync and Smooth should help keep tearing away. It also helps smooth the effect of 'stutter' when looking at the distance. If you can. Upload a video to see what you're talking about. Might help. You can make it unlisted if you don't wanna post on your channel as public and then just send me the video link so i can view it.

@@KillerRaptorr czcams.com/video/_C41b6krcAQ/video.html I hope it worked, I forgot to change the quality of my Nvidia recording so its in only 30 mbps/bitrate but you should see what my problem is. I activated the Nvidia 3D settings you told me in our first anwer. It removed the massive ghosting when using TSR but it still makes it pixelated/blurry at some point (also shown in the video) The biggest problem is the short render distance for stones and some grass, I didnt see that in other videos. Even with View Distance on epic it feels like I have set it to low, lol. Stones and bushes appearing in a very weird "line" effect only when I'm close.

@@-Sicko. Uh. Remove mods. play on official and try again. Modded servers can sometimes have the game get weirded out. Plus the Carno isn't a official dino so it could be reason it's appearance is bugged. if it works fine after the above. Then try redownloading the mods for your server and see again. If it happens. Then you know why it's happening. I downloaded mods before and it started crashing my game. So i don't bother anymore on private servers.

What you mean opt out?

@@KillerRaptorr in the description of your video, there's a list of other things you can do also to prevent the Wii u from freezing. And one of things is opt out of Nintendo eShop notices

​@@JSJ796Umm did you watch the video? You need to go into the eshop. There should be the opt out of notifications.

Ok, thanks

Nope. It's a fake-copy. Cygolite has gone past their older design of their Metro series. And it seems that Ce'co has stolen it and used it for their own products of Cygolites older lights. It's funny they try to copy the more modern design Cygolite is doing with their ceco series. But are using the older tech in the metro's first gen series. Which is the ones that aren't the Pro or ranger series with better light cut off systems.

Not sure this is based on milkyway galaxy system for that to be even true. Might wanna ask on the starwraith forums to Vice if it's even possible. I barely tapped into the games to know that.

@@KillerRaptorr the game does let you plot a course, but will have to rely on the fulcrum drive and I'm 100% sure that the fuel will run out before we even get to Pluto... I don't get why the game would allow plotting a course to Sol and have it included as a functional star system if there's no way to access it, maybe there's a hidden wormhole somewhere... Idk...

Maybe you didn't watch. But i said humans who can use a device to change into dinosaurs when traveling back. That way they wouldn't change the past by their appearance. Because as you can listen. They try not to expose their vast future human know how of the modern world. And everything they talk about relates to our current time of when the movie was made. Just watch and listen to the two. You'll understand.

TSR is similar to FSR. Maybe slightly less blur motion related then FSR is. But i would use TAA or FXAA instead. TSR will have a blur effect on everything when it's in motion. The other two won't. I think it's to look as good as TAA, But with the added motion blur to reduce performance that TAA uses much of. I'd just stick with FXAA if you're wanting to keep low performance with a semi AA smoothing form. But that's what FSR and TSR do. They give the appearance of TAA. But with added motion blur and slightly lower resolution to make up for better performance for less usage then TAA.

@@KillerRaptorr thanks a lot i’ll try both!

@@KillerRaptorr should i also put everything on epic settings or lower it, i have a 3060ti with a ryzen 5600x and a 1440p 144hz monitor. i can never find the perfect settings because everything turns out grainy should i set resolution to lower on the monitor then upscale in game or vice versa or keep the native resolution for both?

@@graysonsherwin6674 Your setup should allow for over 120fps on epic settings with TAA on. FXAA will make everything like grainy because it doesn't clean the edges as well as TSR or TAA. I have a 3070 and i run it really good on epic with TAA. Same display 2k 1440p 165hz. Smooth as any. Might also if you want to squeeze alittle more juice. Can always go into your AMD control system and go to gaming graphics. Change to your specific game (In the amd panel controller) and change AA to enhance it to boost more AA cleaning. That should increase the sharpness TAA does from ingame. (Plus there is also a Alt F2 feature ingame that lets you go to High quality mode. It should make the game look even sharper.)

@@KillerRaptorr TAA blurs everything in motion for me...i love blurry graphics but that just paints over moving objects,dinos too and it looks too bad(Any fix?

Then......Why'd you comment on my video? This problem on my video wasn't due to ANY app. It was due to Motorola's internal brightness dim controller on Android 10. After 11 it disappeared. Plus you don't need a 'Fake' CZcams app. Use Firefox with Ublock ad-blocker. Or Opera and use the browser to use Mobile CZcams mode. This works 100times better then CZcams's app or any fake apps to override youtubes crap 'ads'. And works similar to the app. But better. Sure no comment viewing unless in the desktop mode on the browser... But you can just hit the normal youtube app for that. And the two above browsers won't have dark videos or ads. Hope that helps.

Pulse uses the maximum light output *AKA Boost*. But it's not on for huge amount of time. So 1 it doesn't heat the light up as Boost does on Steady. And 1 it has a larger runtime because it's not always on. Low-Medium-High are standard ON Steady. If you want to get into BOOST. You gotta Double click the button to get into Boost mode. But this mode can only be turned on when in the first mode switch system. If you're in the Flash/zoom/daylight/etc modes. This double click won't work.

The tricycle doesn't turn hard like tadpoles do. Plus this trailer i had had a Large L-hook handle. So it only turnlooped at the mounting joint vs other trailers that curve closer to the bike's mounting hitch. For instance ridekick's trailer's mounting arm isn't so long and loops just at the end point like this Allen trailer did. So all you'd need to do is mount to the seat adjustment point that would be the Center of the tricycles location and have plenty of room for the trailer to dodge and give the rear wheels enough room to turn. And this video wasn't to show THIS trailer could be pulled really. It was more to show that MOST trailers CAN be used by using the middle seat adjustment point as your trailers mounting bracket location. For people who say wanna attach a ride-kick trailer to it and use power to push them. (Which is what i was gonna do. But ended up going with a Yukon Navigator 2 bike instead.)

Did you really watch my video or look at the info? Instead of just commenting first? If those don't work. I don't know what to say other then resorting to deleting the info saved on the console that'll likely clear all saved data. If that still doesn't work. Then try checking the disks for any scratches (If it's a CD). If not delete the app and reinstall it (After deleting the above stuff first.).

Whoa nice. What'd you modify it with?

How did you do this??

@@bosthebozo5273 Should read my comment. _Winks_ Cause there is no way they could do this with the stock motor and battery.

Looks like it has some good specs. Microshift Advent is what i have on my hyper. Though it's the 8speed shifter lever vs the 9speed. Since the derailuer is compatible with either 8 or 9speed shifters. And with the 8speed it works pretty ok with my 6speed stock rear wheel freewheel hub. So that's neat. I just tuned it to shift into 2-3-4-5-6-7. So the 1 and 8speeds are cut off to center for the 2-7speeds. So 1 is 2 and 7 is 6.

Neato. Enjoy.

This was made before the so called 'Pro' versions existed. So no. They might've improved the circut system to be more stable and recharge better. Since they did also move to a new charger design. But not that really matters since the chargers themselves are not really a 'charger'. The fun fact of any Lithium AA charger isn't inside the charger itself. It's the cells that control all the charging. The chargers are basically just pure 5volts. The batteries take in the 5volts and ramp it back to 4.5volts for the internal cells (that run at 3.7 normal but at max charge they are around 4.2volts And will drop to around 3.0 or 2.9volts before shutting down.) This is why they can have a stable 1.5volts is because they are down-voltaged from their internal 3.7volt internal cells. Because their internal volts are always way beyond 1.5volts. But Lithium cells cannot drop lower then 2.8 or so or they get damaged. Which is why their internal BMS shut down before then and why the cell 'lowers and step loose power'. So the Pro versions i can just think has a slightly better BMS chip to be more stable and also charge better then their older versions. Which really sucked. Still though it's largely unlikely the BMS chip changed to allow a higher current flow to allow a stable and cooler battery function in devices that require a high drain system like a high powered light so. 2.0amp output is ALOT of punch. And a BMS that small without a way to cool much (Since the lithium cells also get hot under fast loads.) there's no real way for that amount of output. 0.5 i think is still the only amount it can punch. The only batteries i seen that can push that much. Is our old friends NIMH and NiZn batteries. Both can do around 2.0amps to over 3.0amps. I'm using a Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus and Guide 12. That can do 1amp and 2amp output. Which puts a large strain on AA's. I tried Amptorrent and another set of lithiums i had. Nether could withstand even the 1amp power output for long without basically being a hot potato in the pack. The Amptorrents shut down, Luckily for their safety BMS system. The other cells i had didn't and kept going but i stopped since they were insanely hot. And if the outside shell is that hot to the touch. It's likely 2-3x more hotter on the lithium wrap inside the cell. Which is likely to catch fire at such point. Another test i done was in a Honeywell AA fan i had. Had 2. Tested fresh charged Amptorrent and Duracell rechargeables. Guess who had better power output? Duracell and better fan RPM's and speed. Maybe nearing the middle they were alittle slower then Amp's. But sure Amp may of worked consistent with no lost in speed. But Duracell lasted also longer. Amp's died within i think 4hours. Duracell lasted 5+. Sure they lost power even so. But both cells were even amount of mah. Duracell's 2500mah does reach the same mah % as a 1.5volt cell at 3000mah that the amp's are supposedly rated at their lower 1.5volt regulated voltage. Or 800mah at 3.7volts. But even though consistent. They were still out performed by the NIMH's by far in terms of longer drive. Even if they faded alittle bit. Another known problem with these Lithiums. Is their biggest pro. Their BMS regulator chips that keep their voltage consistent at 1.5volts. They just don't have the ability to keep their Om's resistance as smooth stable as normal batteries do. This causes flicker in devices that require a more flat line Om resistance. And due to the higher voltage inside the cell. The BMS Om's voltage dropping has to try restructuring the resistance lower. But it has microstutter flickers. So some stuff that's super sensitive to this kind of reaction can cause problems and also noise inside devices. It's why standard batteries work. Because they don't have that BMS chip to cause problems with their power flow. While the amp's do because their always checking the voltage flow and reconverting the output from 3.7volts to 1.5volts. Instead of being at 1.6 and lowering as a smooth curve. Sorry kinda long info. But i'm not likely to buy these crappy random companies knock off of junk Lithiums. I'll wait till the real battery companies come out with their own. They'll likely have things more smoother in their designs to fix these problems. Like Duracell or Energizer. (Rayovac is out of the game since Energizer owns them now.) (Plus also be safer. Since they won't boost about they can be in items that they will basically exploded in likely.). Or likely won't for safety reasons. (Lithiums can be 'Safe' if they are put under amount of stability checks for the CHIP circuit system and are 'under performed' in their performance to reduce over powered. But in all. Lithium cells aren't truly safer then any other cells. Heck Lead Acids are likely safer then Lithiums by 10 to 3. Biggest reason is Lithiums even from the slightest of damage can basically explode.)

@@KillerRaptorr I think in the end whether a battery is bad or good really depends on the end usage. These are a breakthrough / miraculous for low power IOT sensors, data packet wifi broadcasters, LoRa radios, etc that communicate intermittently but require true 1.5 volts because they are often installed in hard to reach / far up / far away places (that also may not have enough space for solar generators). Campers using flashlights may not like them for their use but scientists, engineers, automation peeps do.

@@LA-Creative Apparently what you just said. Are the devices i just mentioned they aren't recommended for. Aka AA's for blink or other battery AA camera's or things needing 1.5volts for long period of time. Or did you not read the note i mentioned they give off 'Noise' to devices using Radio RF ability? This is why only disposable Energizer Lithium AA/AAA's are used because they have a large energy path with 0 chip to cause noise. Because they don't drop their voltage from the high 3.7volt to 1.5volts. See the little things most people don't take into looking into. They buy into the marketing flip as they say to look good. But again as true. They are no better then using a basic NIMH cell for the most of devices requiring it. People even buy these thinking they'll be better for like Xbox controllers because they have the so-called 1.5volts. But funny enough no. Xbox controllers, etc were designed and built around the 1.2volt aspect system and boost that lower voltage for same performance as a standard alkaline 1.5volt system. Most devices do this now adays because they already been designed to take the lower voltage and internally boost the voltage up to still keep performance at peak.