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Cooper Stairworks
United States
Registrace 18. 08. 2009
Cooper preassembled stairs and prefit rail systems, custom box newels and stair parts are built at North Atlantic Corp (NAC) in Somerset, MA. NAC is a manufacturer of many fine millwork products including Captiva doors and mouldings as well as a proud distributor of Kolbe Windows and Doors, Fitts, Masonite, TruStile, WindsorOne, and many others quality brands.
At NAC, we blend high-end, custom woodworking with high-scale, assembly and distribution. Most companies do one or the other, but not both. Our ability to ship a broad range of products allows us to provide unique value to customers - we are the one-stop-shop for all the millwork products on a job.
At NAC, we blend high-end, custom woodworking with high-scale, assembly and distribution. Most companies do one or the other, but not both. Our ability to ship a broad range of products allows us to provide unique value to customers - we are the one-stop-shop for all the millwork products on a job.
Cooper Mono Stringer Assembly
A mono stringer stair offers space efficiency for more usable space with a sleeker look that can be customized. A single steel stringer is configured to your exact dimensions.
Here are some instructions for assembling a Mono Stringer stair:
Eye Hook Installation:
At the factory, an eye hook is installed for lifting purposes. Using a hoist, the stair is carefully positioned into place.
Screw Installation:
Using screws provided by the factory, they are first screwed into the header and then into the base to secure the structure.
Tread Installation:
Next, the treads are installed, starting from the top. Each tread is carefully placed to ensure proper alignment and stability.
Bottom Tread Attachment:
Attaching the bottom tread requires a small right-angle drill or adapter for accessibility. This step ensures a secure and level foundation.
Newel Installation:
Newels are installed both at the bottom and top of the staircase. In this demonstration, the rail is being installed on one side for simplicity.
Rake Rail Preparation:
Holes are predrilled on the rake rail, and finish washers are attached to enhance stability and durability.
Post Top Bracket Installation:
Post top brackets are installed at both the top and bottom of the staircase. They are securely set and tightened to ensure structural integrity.
Baluster Installation:
Balusters are inserted upwards into the rail and downwards onto the plastic inserts. This pressure fit ensures a secure attachment. Additionally, a bit of adhesive is added to the top inside hole for added stability.
Final Baluster Installation:
Once all balusters are installed into the rail, the assembly process is complete. The staircase is now fully assembled and ready for use.
Additional Information:
In the video, certain hardware components are pre-installed to streamline the process. Additionally, balusters and rail may need to be cut to length to fit the specific dimensions of the staircase.
This detailed demonstration provides viewers with a comprehensive understanding of each step involved in assembling the staircase, ensuring a successful installation process.
Here are some instructions for assembling a Mono Stringer stair:
Eye Hook Installation:
At the factory, an eye hook is installed for lifting purposes. Using a hoist, the stair is carefully positioned into place.
Screw Installation:
Using screws provided by the factory, they are first screwed into the header and then into the base to secure the structure.
Tread Installation:
Next, the treads are installed, starting from the top. Each tread is carefully placed to ensure proper alignment and stability.
Bottom Tread Attachment:
Attaching the bottom tread requires a small right-angle drill or adapter for accessibility. This step ensures a secure and level foundation.
Newel Installation:
Newels are installed both at the bottom and top of the staircase. In this demonstration, the rail is being installed on one side for simplicity.
Rake Rail Preparation:
Holes are predrilled on the rake rail, and finish washers are attached to enhance stability and durability.
Post Top Bracket Installation:
Post top brackets are installed at both the top and bottom of the staircase. They are securely set and tightened to ensure structural integrity.
Baluster Installation:
Balusters are inserted upwards into the rail and downwards onto the plastic inserts. This pressure fit ensures a secure attachment. Additionally, a bit of adhesive is added to the top inside hole for added stability.
Final Baluster Installation:
Once all balusters are installed into the rail, the assembly process is complete. The staircase is now fully assembled and ready for use.
Additional Information:
In the video, certain hardware components are pre-installed to streamline the process. Additionally, balusters and rail may need to be cut to length to fit the specific dimensions of the staircase.
This detailed demonstration provides viewers with a comprehensive understanding of each step involved in assembling the staircase, ensuring a successful installation process.
zhlédnutí: 239
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Genius !!!
Interesting idea, but as some have pointed out, this concept highly resembles IKEA furniture hardware, but on a larger scale, specifically at the point of where the center is tied in. In addition to this, I don't see a rating anywhere on the description of the product. Is it rated for 50 pounds? 500 pounds? Vertical/horizontal force? Further, the fasteners are described as having a "baked on" acrylic for ultimate protection; why not stainless? Galvanized? Are these rated for treater lumber? Won't the acrylic strip off during installation? I seriously doubt the integrity of this product, given these factors. Andy where are they manufactured again?
Actually the gear mechanism is much different in size and strength of anything IKEA is using. They do a great job also. The product is manufactured in Taiwan. That company manufactures the entire line. Zipbolt has the patent for the gear head. The screws are galvanized. The rest is steel with double coat of epoxy baked on the product. If you search the internet, other companies use a very similar process against corrosion. All the epoxy parts were salt spray tested for corrosion. Zipbolts gear head itself has had the head tested for pull out and it passed easily far exceeding 200 lbs. There isn't any testing data that has been done in the US. But I did some in crude testing in out shop. But it is not the data I believe you are talking about, sorry. We helped introduce this product along with a few other companies. I can say that we have sold thousands of these without a single return. It does not sound like you have tried it yet and making some assumptions from watching the videos. Buy one, try it, and we welcome your feedback. Thank you for your interest.
what about the upper side of the rail
Hello. For that you would use the Zipbolt Angled Slipfix. Please call us with any questions at 508-235-4397. Thank you. czcams.com/video/YPtm0OmLzUY/video.html
If you use this to install a top rail between two posts once you place the railing in place and the zipbolts slip into the holes is there a way to retract the zipbolts if you wanted to remove the railing when installing a straight railing between two posts
It retracts but it should not be used as a means to install and remove the rail on a regular basis. It should always be used in conjunction with glue once the final rail is in place. Please give us a call at 508-235-4397 with any questions.
Thank you for the perfect video. Stright to the point.
Thank you. Please feel free to give us a call if you have any questions 508-235-4397.
Can I use only two screw OR have to be 4,why? Thanks
4 it is designed for 4 to meet load that is exerted on newel and rails. Do not use 2. Please give us a call at 508-235-4397 with any questions. Thank you.
If your a tight arse use 2, and if you want it to totally fail try using one👍
Could you use this to attach a 4x4 vertically on top of another 4x4?
Hi Lisa, I have never tried that. It does seem like it could be done but you would need to figure out the different way it would be installed. You could buy one and try it. Not sure how many you were thinking of doing. Feel free to call us at 508-235-4397 to discuss your project. Thank you.
Can these be utilized for securing this to concrete pad?
Yes, but you would have to change the connection. I would suggest a shield or chemical anchor. Only wood screws are provided. Give us a call at 508-235-4397 if you need further assistance. Thank you.
Ye hame chahiye kaha milege...
Hello, if you are in the US www.cooperstairworks.com. If not please check out zipbolt.com.au/ to inquire about a dealer near you. Thank you.
Ye hame kaha milega
Hello, if you are in the US www.cooperstairworks.com. If not please check out zipbolt.com.au/ to inquire about a dealer near you. Thank you.
Thanks for the Stair Chat . Fitts is honored to be a vendor partner with Cooper Stairworks . Keep Chatting Dave !
Ha ha Imagine doing that much precision drilling and work for every post. Then someone leans heavily on it so you have to drill out the timber plug you've glued in to just tighten it up? Sorry but it's over engineered bullsht.
Nice install. Never used the newel post fasteners. I know I really don't like the handrail fasteners they strip out to easy and you can't torque them.
I tried this product. It's garbage. It snapped while I was inserting it into the newel post, in the last turn or so. I used the small tube/pipe technique shown here and it was going in easily enough right up until it snapped. Not even sure how to salvage this now because I had already measured and drilled the handrail as well.
czcams.com/video/GAnh_UdAGtw/video.html
These gizmos are basically a $50 log splitter. No structural integrity with the deck frame whatsoever. With "Zipbolts any substantial lateral load will "zip" these posts right down the middle.
Thanks for your comments. To date we have not had anything like happen to what you have described. Have you tried them? We have been selling thousands of them for years . We are always looking to improve and I will share your thoughts with the manufacturer . Thanks again
@@davidsilvia8467 I Cannot believe this will resist a 300-pound uniform load or a 500-pound point load.of LATERAL force applied to the top of the 36 inch post. That is the current International Residential code requirement.
can this fastener be used to anchor round posts?
Yes, if itvis larger than the 3-1/2" plate. It would need to be recessed into bottom of newel. It is not a normal application for this model but it should work.
@@davidsilvia8467 can these be used on an exterior deck post?
Great Comment. There are some newel fasteners on the market that does just that. We believe this method is stronger though. The 1/2" lag going down into the framing and the 4 screws really makes its strong. Of course blocking should be used where needed. The other side of the main center bolt goes up 5" that applies the downward pressure. The head itself has been tested for pull out . We have several nice emails from people who actually purchased and used the product. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Dave
Why not just pull down the post to the base with 4 wood anchors in the post (providing you had access below the floor of course).
I think the zipbolt method is pretty awesome. It's not only fastened down from above, but also provides a riser plate and separation of the bottom of the post to deck contact (hence, helping to eliminate water absorption issues and premature deterioration and stability of the post).
At 0:21 "About" 5 and 1/2 inch? the back of my zipbolt UT 14.110 states 4.5 to 5. Not sure the difference here, I may practice on some junk wood first.
$40 to $50 per post? To surface mount to the deck boards? Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
The resistance to lateral force, with this device, is NO GREATER than the screws ability to hold in the 5/4 deck board within the post's footprint.. In other words, this is about as strong as toe nailing into the surface of your deck and expecting it to hold against the mechanical advantage of a 36 inch lever at 200 pounds. If you are not through bolting into the rim joist, structural joists and blocking with 1/2 inch nuts washers and bolts you will never achieve code standards of 200 pounds of lateral force. Don't be stupid. These gizmos are a waste of money. Invest in 1/2 inch through bolts and longer posts that connect to the deck's frame structure if you really want to pass an IRC code test
Do you not sell these anymore?
Hello, Please call us at 508-235-4397 with any questions about the product or how to purchase. Thank you.
Id like to buy it but it doesnt seem to be available anywhere in canada.
Hello, you could try reaching out at this site zipbolt.com.au/ to see if there is a dealer in your area.
Adel, thanks for your message. I have never used a shield to secure the main lag but I am pretty sure it could work. Then some concrete screws could be also put in place of the screws provided. Again, I am just thinking out loud about this application. It should be tested before doing the entire project. Dave
Hi Tom, The disc on the Angled Slipfix is designed to be in wood. Many people have used an oval wooden rosette mounted on the end of the wall and installed the key lock disc in that. I hope this helps, Dave
CB, Sorry you had a problem. You mention then small pipe which makes things easier . On the instructions and the video it says to "ream" the hole. Also add some type of lubricant. They do work well when all steps are followed. You can try taking a chisel and cut around the bolt. Then sometimes it is possible to expose enough of the bolt to grab with a pair Of vise grips. Please email back to Cooper your full.name and address and we will send a replacement .
Nice video. Great without any annoying music.
Thanks!
I love the ingenious simplicity of your Zipbolt system✌👍. I'm wondering if it can be used on a concrete floor ( front door steps and walkway-- to build hand railings for an elderly person. Your reply would be greatly appreciated.
I'm installing a maple rail that will dead end into the end face of a wall. The rail will rise at an angle. Where the rail will hit the wall is the top, and there is a stud behind the drywall. Is it possible to use The Zipbolt Angled Slipfix to attach the rail to the wall? I may need to shim out from the stud to the surface of the dry wall.
A very beautiful system ✌👍👍
Glad you like it Adel!
Beautiful?... perhaps. Structurally sound? ...Not at all.
can i use this for external decking?
Hi Raymond. No these are meant for interior only. Zipbolt does have a product called "XT Post Anchor" which is designed for exterior applications. Normally we also have them in stock but we sold out. Very popular product since it was introduced. The good news would be we expect a shipment in today or tomorrow of stock. Please check the store later today or tomorrow.
Amazing what will they think of next?
They'll probably come up with some idea like, oh, I don't know, maybe, toasted bread!?😅😂🤣
pretty expensive
This video is great for deaf people
What? 😂
Thank you! Very helpful.
Glad we could help. Feel free to call our tech support line at 508-235-4397 with any questions.
Know what works better and requires no expensive bracket and doesn't fuck yourself when you go to replace decking. Just frame the damn post into the frame and block it in and notch the decking around it...
Matt, there are all different types of post fasteners on the market. If it was new deck construction and you have the opportunity to extend the newels on the deck you are 100% correct. It would be very strong clean and neat. But I have seen them used several different ways. "Filling in between two structural posts for example" or a deck remodel that the newels that hold the deck up are in good shape but what is sticking above is not. Your message does not mention if you actually tried the XT Anchor. Give it a shot the next time and it may be just right for situations I have described. Thank You
@@davidsilvia8467 I almost always will frame the post into the deck or shoulder cut a 6"x6" post and use a simpson bracket specifically for doing just that and tie it back into the frame on the inside and bolt it up. Handrail isn't something to mess around with it has to be STRONG.
what if angle on rail is already cut?
Hi Jeff, it is possible. When drilling the hole on the piece that is cut on an angle stat at 90 degrees to the cut and once it starts swing it into position to drill the hole. Its tricky but not impossible. If you had the cut off using hot melt glue you could stick it on and drill the hole then knock off the piece. Hot melt will come off with a sharp Chisel. I hope this has helped.
I made this mistake when working on my stair rail - I cut the bottom angle before remembering to drill first. Following the directions, I determined that I could measure up from the bottom of the rail to where 15/16ths lined up with my cut. I marked that point and measured backwards along the rail 2.5" and marked. I transferred that mark to the bottom to find where to drill the 1" diameter hole. The first point - 15/16ths along my angle cut - showed where the center point of my cut was, so I transferred that mark horizontally onto the face of my angle cut and drilled the bolt hole there (to a depth approximately 1/2" past the 1" hole). I had no trouble with this approach. Which was good, because I made the mistake again later on another piece!
Home Depot sells a similar idea to install an interior newel post for stair railing. Not exactly the same but in principal.
Lol stupid as actual f. Just run 3” screw from post to grab handrail. Done
Thanks for your opinion. More and more national and local codes are changing the way connection points are being handled. There could come a day (soon) that they will require more than a screw to do that application. This fastener also does not require a plug on the face of a newel which can be found offensive and can even be installed between two finished newels without harming the face of them. It does not seem like you tried it and made assumptions after seeing it in the video. If you have not tried it, maybe you could and you may just like it for other situations as well. This one "Slipfix) is one of the top sellers. Customers have sent really creative ways to use these award winning fasteners. Thank you
Great product, but you don't ship to Canada.
Hello, We do have an ebay Store that does allow shipment to Canada. Here is a link to the Micro www.ebay.com/itm/Zipbolt-UT-Micro-Railbolt-16-610-2-Pack-/142129924360?hash=item21179a8908. Feel free to call 508-235-4397 with any questions. Thank you.
Could you install an angled rail bolt on both ends? ND IF SO HOW WOULD YOU INSTALL IT?
Hi Troy, the Zipbolt Angled Railbolt is designed for the bottom at the start of the rake rail. The Zipbolt Angled Slipfix is designed to be used at the top. I am sorry that I have not completed a movie for that one yet but it allows you to install a disc into the post and with very little room the bolt has a hook on end and it is hooked into disc and you them tighten the gear head to get it tight to newel. Always use glue on wood to wood surfaces. I hope this helps, Dave
Do not buy those crappy products. The cogs inside the mechanism strip easily, making the device useless. I scrapped 3 pieces. The third one, I tried to use an allen key very smoothly. No chance. I threw the rest of my parts to the garbage, where it belongs.
Patrick, sorry to hear that you had a problem. We have been selling this model for over 10 years. Not sure if you got some that were defective. Please contact us for credit or replacement. Your choice. If the driver does not get inserted perpendicular to the gear head that at times could strip. But you mentioned the gear head inside. That same head is used on several models. Please let us know how we can help. Dave
David Silvia That is very nice of you David, but I bought the products here in Canada from Richelieu distributor, through a specialized hardware store. I do not think that you are concerned.
@@Baudesign agreed, cheap piece of junk. Strips easily and very difficult to remove once stripped. A simple straight rail bolt and nut is more practical.
From the point under the 1/4" thick mounting plate the lag portion extends 5-1/4". So the fastener has 5 connection points to the deck. 4- 4" long Torx type of screws , and the center lag. The lag also has a machine type thread in the center that screws into that plate.
How long is the bolt that goes thru the deck? Thx
Great idea but I asked a building inspector this way to build a staircase and he sad no way every stairs need 2x12 to pass in a inspection. Could you please let me what I need to do?I live in Massachusetts. Thanks.
Hi, not sure what town you are building in. We have been building stairs for over 40 years in New England and beyond. These are standards used throughout the stair industry. Our stringers are structural. 5/4 thick. The treads we use are also 5/4 thick. Tongue and groove from riser to tread. Wedged , glued and wedge is stapled in place also. All miters have glue blocks. Pocket hole screws connect top of riser into tread. If a stair is over 48" wide, then we add a center stringer. We also belong to a National Stair builders group. This is a common construction technique all over the United States. We build hundreds and hundreds of stairs a year. This construction detail has been used for over 200 years!! So, I am not sure what the building inspector means.
You dnt explain the centre of newel and post you dumb ass
Really like your product designs. If I'm using a stain-grade newel (oak or cherry) do you have plugs to match?
Hello Mike. We have plugs in beech, maple, red oak, white oak and sapele mahogany. Here's the link to our store. www.cooperstairworks.com/store/Plugs-c28906006. Feel free to call our tech support line at 508-235-4397 with any questions. Thank you.
Well done, very informative and quickly displayed.
Thanks for this video, and I love the product but how do you attach these to both ends on an angled rail? Everything is cut and drilled, and one fits on, but the bolt sticks out of the other newel post and the angle of the bolt won't slide over it.
Hi Lisa, thanks so much for your purchase and comments. There is a video I have not made yet. The ZIPBOLT that is used at the top is called an Angled Slipfix. If you look at the Zipbolt Slipfix movie I did you will see how it works. But the Angled Zipbolt is used at the top. I hope this helps. Dave www.cooperstairworks.com. They are sold in our store.
@@davidsilvia8467 Thanks so much, Dave. I have both products now and my railing is simply beautiful. I highly recommend Zipbolt, and I truly appreciate your quick reply. Maybe just a mention of both bolts for a full installation would be helpful.
Looks like the crap way of connecting cheap furniture. Not very strong.