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I have surfed some biggish waves and always remember thinking or saying as I paddled into them, it's death or glory, and sometimes death is closer than you would like to realise. A great example of total commitment and understanding that this may be the wave of your life, hats off to you Matt, I am impressed that you chose a big one then took off and made the drop. I hope you have many big waves left in you, well done.

like dropping in to a salad bowl

That wave keeps calling you back because it wants to kill you!! It's Christine the devil wave 🌊

Faaarrrrrkkkkk that 😆

That’s not outta Bomb is it?

We said at 15ft Asu 'It looked easy on CZcams'

This guy is a class act! The humblest big wave legend…. So much respect.

This guy is a class act! The humblest big wave legend…. So much respect. 🤙🏼

That wave was bonkers 😮

👍🏆

Looks cool as, loving the grower type entry!

More please!

Golly how scary, with all the jet skis flying in to rescue you, float jackets and safety equipment, it must be the 3rd most important thing on your mind. Lastly earthquakes, are you fucking kidding me? Try surfing blind, in 1988 when a monster bomb swell maxes out the entire south bay, only guys surfing are Ted Robinson and Joey Buran out at Cable Cars mile outside out of El Porto.. we paddled out at Old Mans, and the fog was so thick, we thought we were on the outside, and then hoots and hollers from way way outside come in, my friend Connell and I, looked at each other and we paddled our 6' 8" DJ Spyder Boards by Pat Reardon for the horizon and out of the fog come 20 Foot white water! We bailed our boards and dove, the whitewater snapped my leash, my friend Connell his leash held and I swam to him and would not let go. He panicked, I pannicked, but the rest of the sets whitewater washed us into shore, as San Onofre, breaks out a solid mile Plus, back in those days, there were no helmets, gear or even jet skis, you were on your own, and safety was #1, on your list of things to do, I clamped onto a buddy who was floating and would not let go.. I never would have been able to swim a mile plus, in 20-25 foot bombed out inside 3 foot foam, in zero visibility. Yes, wrong move? Stupid, but today, they would be dropping off lattes to the guys in the lineup on "skis bra" with oxygen tanks and supplements and hooker hand jobs on the boats in the channel for those who are anxious. Different decade, era and breed of surfers vs. nowadays..

Epic , honest story telling at it's best . Love your work Matt . Yew .

Yes I got pushed down into a crevasse on a reef break in WA.it wasn’t that big but I could feel a ledge pressing against the front of my upper thighs, I tried to push off the bottom but my leg rope was snagged on something, so I didn’t go anywhere. I panicked so much that I kicked so hard with my leg rope leg, and snapped the leg rope and then surfaced. That was the strength the panic gave me.I came in totally traumatised and it wasn’t even that big!

Jisssus!!! I have nightmares just seeing that clip... insane drop!

Stud🫵

Should be called the Best Wipeouts. Will be hard one to beat

Dude, you SUCK! What were you thinking on half of those wipeouts LMAO!!! Just kidding, you're a beast and got balls the size of grapefruits to even go on most of those waves. Cheers bro, be safe going forward and thx for the great content!

very glad your ok yikes

6:14 great pic though! Great story thanks for sharing.

Heavy bro!

Love your stories bro, thanks!

You are so good on film, such honesty and so watchable. Wonderful

Wear armor dude. If you get hurt there, there is no help. I've seen it there a few times, you have to get back to Sumatra. Haven't been there since the earthquake.

Fucking legend mate!

Yewwww keep up the good work 🤙🤙

Did Mark Foo have floatation vest? I think Shane Dorian also said Mavericks was probably his scariest wipeout.

How’s the reef lol

Even though you didn’t make it the fkn balls on you to send it so fucking hard 100 percent commitment gangsta as shit respect brotha

Such am awesome insight Matt!

As a surfer myself your story gives me butterflies I know that feeling all too well🌊😱🤙🏽🤜🏾

I’ve had a very similar situation at Sunset Cliffs.

Far out mate. Intense. Cheers for sharing

Underrated channel

This is some of the best content on all of CZcams, your such a good storyteller, the music, the clips, the angles. Absolutely breathtaking and what every content provider should strive for. Big Mahalo to you and the team making this!

that's one of the many ways to die there, Pipe is just as nasty as nasty can be. glad you somehow handled

So heavy

Monster Bromley tales from the dark side horror flick. 👻

I love the storytelling! Keep it up mate!

Meu Deus, gigante e perfeita. Incrível o tamanho, perfeição e profundidade deste tubo insano. Esse cara deve ter ficado submerso por mais de 60 segundos em baixo da água sem respirar... Nias é Foda! Muito Foda está onda.... A melhor direita do mundo...

what a psychopath

when you know you're not going to make the drop but are too late to pull off... might be the worst feeling in surfing

What are the chances of punching through and not going back over the falls on a wave like that?

Rad story from the deep bru!

Epic Man i love you! Big waves no limit

epic seriers

So sick!

A very articulate description of pure terror! Props for also acknowledging the similar bravery/madness of the photographers swimming around to capture the moment.

Pure stoke coming through loud and clear.