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Thanks man! It would be pretty sweet to have a pair of Z's take on all the modern sports cars. I might hit Laguna Seca in the end of November. I've got improved brakes on the car now, but I'm debating whether or not to install adjustable control arms before my next run.

@@HooliganGarage-650 that will definitely help with the feel of "barreling in turn" feel. I knew a guy that had the T3 arms upfront and he said it helped along on the turn in (confidence inspiring). I waited last year for the black Friday sale and ended up buying stuff for my Celica instead. This year for sure will get the arms and torsion bars.

I used ECU Tuning Group. They have multiple locations in California. Not only in L.A, but in the SF Bay as well. If you decide to call them, try to reach Jags Gill, who is the head tuner.

Interesting. How did you go about adapting those brakes to the spindles/hubs? My spring rates are 300/275, which from what i've read is seemingly considered moderate for track use.

We had a tight timeline to solve the brake issue so we just bought kits from Silver Mine Motors. Rear rotors bolt up directly and the front rotor gets the center bore opened up to 81mm and then 4 holes drilled at 103 BCD to bolt up to the stock front hub. Rotor ends up really close to the ball joint, so we will see if that becomes an issue. Of course we want to go high on the spring rates, but fear we will exceed the rebound adjustment range of the tokico struts we have. Good to know 300/275 can be controlled by a street strut.

That's a great idea 😎

@HooliganGarage-650 I guess I'm convinced. Just keep making videos! The one thing I wish people did was make more videos about this car because it seems like it has super, super high potential.

Not that it was low compression due to wear, but due to the fact that these block and head combos have dished pistons, they're just known as the lower compression blocks. I believe I was at 161-168PSI across all 6. If you're at 120psi consistently with all of your cylinders, I would check again with a different tester, especially if its running fine and not smoking/burning oil.

@@HooliganGarage-650 I’ll check it again soon. Just been trying to see why mines running so rich I can’t pass smog. Changed and tested almost everything fuel related and have been testing electrical components and seems to me like I might need an ecu cause other than the compression being low everything seems to be working fine.

@@orellabac5762 Which category is it failing smog in? HC?

@@HooliganGarage-650 Both hc and co. Nox was good. Did a full tuneup and replaced the afm awhile back. Got a new cat in it too hopefully I don’t ruin it from how rich it’s running. Just found out today my vac advance was leaking and not holding vacuum but I would expect it to be lean at idle from the extra air coming in. It’s pig rich even with the afm screw turned all the way out.🤦‍♂️

there are two storage bins behind the seats and one littler bin just behind the rear left hand tire.

@nos1000100 Rite on, My 240Z had/has em. I had forgot if my 83' 280zx turbo had them. By that time I didn't have the need to hide a 1/5 of Bourbon.. lol

@@markwilson8985 my 1986 300zx has a large compartment that had a divider in between too. I'm not sure if the z32 has anything like that though. I want to convert the ones in my 280zx into 6x9 speaker boxes

@nos1000100 I did do that on my Restored 72 240Z. Put some Insulation and or dinomatt. Fyi, I dont think it gives you great stereo separation. But, normally I wanna hear the purr/roar of the engine anyway! So, not a big deal.

@@markwilson8985 I'm not worried about proper stereo separation. I just want something with a little more balls than the stock 6" speakers

Are you running stock management with that cam?

The ST sway bars have definitely reduced body roll, and they are significantly larger than the stock ones. However, compared to other sets, the front sway bar is about 1/16th thicker than any other front sway bar in other sets. I did not have this in mind when I ordered my coilovers with 300/275lb F/R Springs. Having stiffer front springs plus this oversized so-to- speak front sway bar is one thing that I believe contributes to the plow. What I should have done is gone with a 300/300 set. Why? Well, the combination of these two setups makes the front end significantly stiffer than the rear end, and when this occurs, an environment for understeer is created. I'm thinking I could counteract this by altering the caster and camber of the front wheels (With aftermarket control arms). Or alternatively, I could just purchase stiffer rear springs, though the trade off could be a higher risk of lift-off oversteer. If you are considering ST's for your Z, you will absolutely see a difference in handling, but you will want your F/R spring rates to be equal right off the bat.

Ah interesting. I've been looking into stoptech rotors and pads. Seems like the options are that, or one of those massive wilwood big brake kits, but those seem a bit overkill.

Will you be running stock calipers and rotors?

@@HooliganGarage-650 I am going with the stock calipers but some after market rotors, pads, fluid, and braided lines.

Yeah you're totally right, I was thinking the same thing when playing back this footage. Too much understeer.

@@HooliganGarage-650could you get a stiffer rear sway bar?

@@rocky8road280 I believe the ST bars I have are the stiffest available, as far as I am aware of.

@@HooliganGarage-650 idk I have a tenth gen civic si, and from what I’ve heard on the forums, putting a stiffer rear sway bar and a front strut bar makes the car rotate more. You could also try increasing front and rear camber, making and making the rear camber less than the front. EX: -2.0 Front left and right, -1.7 rear left and right. Last thing I can think of is messing with tow and tire pressure, but idk much about either.

This one had 108,000

Moved away

They stayed on with the main beams.

@@HooliganGarage-650 ok, thank you!

The first step would be to buy the intake manifold gasket for the shop to use as a reference (Each port on the gasket is 34.5mm) and tell them to extrude port the runners to match the size of this gasket. This will involve cutting open the plenum to port the runners all the way through, and then welding it back up. Then instruct them to port the plenum opening (where it meets the throttle body) to 60mm.

lol

The coolant lines had already been bypassed somehow by the person I bought the car from.

Naturally Aspirated, no turbocharger.

The headers were from Motorsport, however the manifold was a custom job performed by a machine shop in my area.

1982.

Channeling my inner Fujiwara

16x7 and 215/55/16.

Comin right up!

HM - is there an upload of pre & post 996 X-Pipe install? I’m wondering if the X-Pipe mod brought a pronounced droning sound at 6th Gear Interstate Cruising with it. I’m still running OEM exhaust on my 3.4L 996 Cabriolet. I don’t wish to sacrifice & Lose Comfort for Added HP. I love to travel in my 996 & have a ‘75 Carrera S (fitted with 3.2L & G50) for Go-Fast & Get-Loud times.

Thanks! Yes, the F54 N/A engines started with 145BHP. With a drivetrain loss correction (Last slide) It's now making 166BHP and 178FT/LB of torque.