Video

Depends how old is the pump has it been run for long time and overheated. it sounds as bad electrical coil on the pump. It needs a new pump in this case.

Salut, the probe (sonde) is inserted between the boiler body and the insulation I have placed around the boiler.

@@dkaraboy thank you brother

Update, finished surgery ok😎, have a good tip use a flat blade cutter when starting to get it going then use the plastic pick so you dont chip the paint under-on the glass

There is no pressure gauge on this machine.

Hi, unfortunately I did not film the repair process. It requires new heating element, boiler gasket (O ring) and heater O rings. The machine boiler needs complete disassembling, cleaning, descaling and replacement of the above mentioned parts, After that it is like new.

It is DIY mod Ikea dimmer and oven thermometer ;)

Yes it is the original 57mm portafilter and I cut out the bottom myself using circular saw and drilling machine.

Great looking coffee! Why did you cut out the bottom ?

Definitely the Quick Mill Silvano, it is more capable machine.

@@dkaraboy ok. But if need any repair or fix something like pump etc, it’s pretty easy? How is your opinion about it? Thanks 🙏

Yes, it is very well made.

The tool I am using is perfectly flat and pointed downward against the aluminum back so there is no any chance puncturing the battery.

Live life on the edge.

The old glue (double side tape) will hold enough , but if you want you can clean the old one and apply new strips of double sided tape.

Hi, I can try to help you, please explain what is the problem.

Hi, the way to get strong steam is keep the heater heating, you should not wait for the light to go off. After switching the steam button wait around 30 sec. then open the valve and drain the water from the pipes in an empty cup. Close the valve, wait 30 sec. and start fronting your milk and it is very important to keep your right hand on the valve and slowly keep opening it because when the valve gets hot it expands and closes, reducing the steam. During this the heater will keep heating and producing strong steam, you just need to controlling it with the valve.

@@dkaraboy Thank you for your reply and advice. Today I did what you advice me to do, but same issue with pressure loss. I ran just steam by itself and after the first 10 seconds you can hear steam gets weak. I do have a video that I recorded but not sure how to send it to you. I also opened the front cover and see if there is any leak during steaming from valve but couldn't see any. Again my brew and hot water are hot around 120 and increases rapidly to 160. Any other advice? I would appreciate it. Thank you

@@erlynlopez9731 for me 1 min is enough to finish frothing the milk, try smaller volume. Be sure before switching the machine for steaming that the boiler is full. If it is not or you are steaming too long you can destroy the heating element on your machine. Check also if the tip on the steam pipe is clean, you need to unscrew it and check inside and flush it.

@@dkaraboy I want to say I found my problem. During my steaming prep I noticed that water was leaking from return tubing to tank that connects to OPV valve. Once steam was ready as I started, I noticed steam coming out of my OPV return tubing the steam was really hot, Not sure if that's normal, so I clamp the tubing and noticed foaming. I want to say my OPV valve seal needs replacement. I believe that's were I am loosing pressure during steaming. Because this issue just started couple of days when I contacted you. Can you confirm that their shouldn't be any steam leaking during steaming process from OPV return tubing. Also thank you for all you help, I really appreciate it.

@dkaraboy Sir, it was the OPV seal the issue. I rebuild the seal,spring and orange and issue was resolved. After I made replacement, and checked and no more leak and milk steam great. I want to say it took about 30 seconds and I had good foam. Thanks alot for all your feedback.

You're welcome!

Hi, you need a multimeter to check the heating element as well for the thermostat to test it is it opening the circuit when the boiler gets hot. When the temperature is low all thermostats are closed, then around 100 C the coffee one should open, the steam is 145C and the high limit is 165C. But be careful when testing the heating element and the thermostats, unplug the power and disconnect the connectors from the tested element. Also be sure the boiler is full with water to the top.

@@dkaraboy Thank you sir. I did exactly as you did in the video and set the multi-meter to resistor and the heating element reads 48 and the ground test reads 0 which means there is no crack as you explained. Awesome because that is expensive. I then checked the brew 100C and the steam 140C thermostats and I get no reading which means they are blown. The multi-meter is set to resistor the same setting I checked the heating element. Or is there a different setting to check the thermostats? Thank you again for your help

@@Marco-bh9im 48 Oms seems to much for me, also when you are checking between the heater connector and the body of the boiler the multimeter should stay an 1 if it shows "zero" it means short which is not good. The multimeter should be set to resistance or continuity/diode test.

​@@dkaraboy Sorry, correction, the reading is 1. between the heater and the body of the boiler NOT zero. The Multimeter is set to resistance. Ok so 048 ohms is too much? I have recently read that 64 is acceptable? What about the thermostats, they all read 005 with multimeter set to resistance. Are the thermostats good? Thank you again

@@Marco-bh9im if the thermostats were cold (les than 100C) it means that they are in closed position and it is Ok, you should test the coffee one (with the red dot on top) when the boiler is hot around 100C it should in open position - multimeter showing 1.

You need to unplug the red and black cables and connect the brown and black thin cables then connect the original cables to the male piggy-back connectors on the thin cables.

Hi, it doesn't really mater where you will mount the SSR, if the wires are long enough you can mount it where I have mounted it, and you don't need to drill holes it to your machine.

You're welcome

Hi, there is always air on top of the the boiler which acts as a buffer to gradually increase the pressure. The pump should compress that first before some hot water gets to the coffee puck.

@@dkaraboy thanks for the reply. Do you find the pre-infusion setting reduces channeling or otherwise helps with extraction? I'm seeing a lot of reviews suggesting it's not that helpful but most seem to be from people who haven't used it.

The PID controls the coffee and steam temperature very precisely by reacting much faster than the thermostats.

Thanks! It’s gonna be easier finding the right brewing temperature by having that features. Guess I’ll purchase it soon:)