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Johnny's Machine Shop
Registrace 8. 05. 2016
I'm a Boiler Maker by trade with a passion for tools and equipment. I enjoy making things and working on motorcycles. I work from home in a shed I built 20 years ago, I love my shed. I'm a passionate hobbyist machinist and CZcams is by far the best place for learning and getting great ideas for projects. If I think I have something worth sharing or maybe something that may help another like minded person, I'm happy to create short videos. I'm new to creating videos and with time I hope the quality of videos greatly improves.
Dialling in a 4 jaw independent lathe chuck the quickest way.
The quickest and easiest way I dial in my 4 jaw independent chuck. Please let me know if there’s a quicker way down in the comments section.
zhlédnutí: 188
Video
Setting up new Vevor 8in Rotary Table Pt. 3 chuck mounting plate
zhlédnutí 2KPřed měsícem
Made by using an old gym weight made of cast iron. You can see it as a gym weight in part 2. Setting up rotary table pt.1 czcams.com/video/oG1y_2bZyYU/video.html Setting up rotary table pt.2 czcams.com/video/RC1JiQOULWU/video.html Unboxing 3 jaw chuck czcams.com/video/WTKdpxXMmxY/video.html
Vevor 3 jaw chuck unboxed & not happy
zhlédnutí 758Před 2 měsíci
Opening the box of my new 3 jaw chuck and things looked pretty bad in the beginning but all is good in the end.
Vevor 8in Rotary Table, handle for ease of moving around.
zhlédnutí 318Před 2 měsíci
These tables are 24 kilograms and awkward to pickup, easy from the right side but needs a lifting point on the left side. Just sharing a simple idea I came up with.
Setting up new Vevor 8in Rotary Table Pt. 2 chuck mounting plate
zhlédnutí 10KPřed 2 měsíci
Using an old cast iron gym weight to make the mounting plate for a 3 jaw chuck. Part 1 czcams.com/video/oG1y_2bZyYU/video.html Part 3 czcams.com/video/Uz2tpcETbUo/video.html 3 jaw chuck for rotary table czcams.com/video/WTKdpxXMmxY/video.html
Setting up new Vevor 8in Rotary Table. Pt. 1 Backlash adjustment
zhlédnutí 822Před 2 měsíci
Prior to adjusting the backlash, it's important the thrust bearing is set correctly. This will be a multi part series of videos of setting the Vevor rotary table before I start using it. Part 2 czcams.com/video/RC1JiQOULWU/video.html
Dismantling a self centering cam lock style lathe chuck
zhlédnutí 230Před 2 měsíci
Showing some tips on dismantling a lathe chuck.
Milling machine vice handle multi positioning using a ball bearing and spring.
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 6 měsíci
Handle was getting in the way. I used a ball plunger to hold the handle in one of three different positions. Within the video I show how I used ball plungers in other items I made, a chuck key for my lathe and a spindle lock for my milling machine.
Machine tapping on a lathe, Optimum 3008
zhlédnutí 555Před 6 měsíci
I’ve reduced my Optimum 3008 lathe’s slowest speed to 68 rpm from 125 rpm which is a better speed for machine tapping
How I slowed down my lathe, Optimum 3008G
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 7 měsíci
Adding an extra gear range by adding to the pulleys, to reduce the lowest speed and increasing the torque on the lower RPM range
Tap & die holder for a lathe
zhlédnutí 807Před 8 měsíci
Tailstock mounted tap and die holder, can cut threads under power or manually turning the spindle.
Kawasaki Ninja 650 2011 instrument cluster
zhlédnutí 27Před 10 měsíci
Short video showing the instrument cluster being turned on
Lathe way cover, mounted with magnets
zhlédnutí 368Před 11 měsíci
DYI lathe ways cover fixed with magnets. Quick and easy to remove and install. No drilling holes or altering the lathe in anyway. Complete job was very inexpensive. This is a link for the expandable cover. Good quality and quick delivery www.ebay.com.au/itm/314553511070?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=ngi_agd9tea&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=kqg74iutT2W&var=613104792603&widget_ver=artemi...
Milling machine custom spindle lock. Optimum BF-20
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed rokem
Custom made spindle lock without tampering with the spindle or quill
Milling machine D.I.Y power feed, Optimum BF-20
zhlédnutí 22KPřed 2 lety
Milling machine D.I.Y power feed, Optimum BF-20
Very nice work.
I’ve just picked up one of these machines off marketplace. Just wondering on the qctp you have installed on yours. Definitely do g this upgrade in the near future, great idea!!
Thanks for your feedback!
Great little project. Well thought out and executed.
Thanks for your positive feedback!
chinese?
Yes it is.
Nice job. I used some .625 plate for mine. I also made a dead center for it. Make chips that dont need dips!
lol! Thanks for your comment btw.
My dad has been a machinist for 50 years now where they produce titanium for companies like Boeing. Using the dial indicator method is the only way he centers material in a 4-jaw chuck.
It would be awesome to watch your dad working in a machine shop and listen to all his tips and tricks!
Barbell weights for their cast iron. I'd never made the connection, brilliant!
Probably not doing that method because they don't know about it. Good you made this video
Very nice rotary table. Something I still need to get.
I just bought a 4” three jaw Vevor for my rotary welding positioner. You don’t need a great chuck for that. What people have to understand is that it’s just amazing that they can make equipment for these prices. But in understanding that, you also have to realize that they have to save money where they can. So an extra cleaning cycle and deburring parts that don’t affect the function are not done. Sometimes, I find some burrs on parts that shouldn’t have them. Overall, everything that is cheap should be taken apart, cleaned and deburred, if necessary. Just think of that as your part of the savings. One guy recently bought a Vevor 10” 4 jaw chuck for $125. Through the entire process of taking it apart, cleaning and deburring it, he was giggling and complaining that it wasn’t made like a more expensive product. Some people don’t get it and just think that complaining about cheap Chinese (or Indian, now) products makes them seem as though they know more than they obviously do. My little 4” chuck was also tight when the jaws got to the center. Some deburring with a small diamond file fixed the problem. Here, he understands that it’s to be expected, and he fixes it without the nonsense complaiming I see in too many other channels.
I totally agree with you, I paid $85 for this chuck and regardless of the 1 jaw being oversized, I was able to spot the problem and easily fix it, that was the purpose of this video, for the prices, this stuff is great but be realistic, you may need to spend time getting the stuff to work as good as you'd like. I never once complained about my purchase and I'll continue to keep buying Vevor products.
@@johnnyciantar I seem to have more Vevor products that I ever expected to have. Some of them without even knowing they were from Vevor when I bought them. Some are pretty good and some really need a lot of work such as the 3 ton ratcheting arbor press.
Nice work.
Thanks!
I purchased an 8 inch diameter gray cast disk 3/4" thick from McMaster-Carr for $37 USD to do mine. I purchased an independent 4 jaw chuck to allow me to dial in oddly shaped parts. I like your idea of using York weights. It never occurred to me that I could do that. I will use your idea if I can afford to add a 3 jaw scroll chuck to the rotary table in the future. Great video and great job on the project! You earned my subscription!
Thanks mate, that’s great you got something good out of the video, it makes doing them worth it. Hope your rotary projects go well and thanks for subscribing!
I believe I would have taken it all apart and cleaned it, then lubed and set it all up.
Yeah, that’s a great way to go.
wow very nice well done. im also a boiler maker local 555.
Thanks 👍
Impressive
Great Idea, I did the same thing on a 300mm rotary table, just be mindful of the hole in the center of your table is most likely tapered for a center if you are going to use it to locate your adapter plate The Problem with that being if you want to use it on longer through shafts that need to go through the center hole, I used 19mm plate and spigoted it to the table Outside diameter then used cap screws to hold it down, the adapter was spigoted with countersunk caps crews to a 250mm 3jaw chuck I was Luckey enough the adapter also fit a 6 jaw self centering and my 4jaw independent chuck. Depending on how accurate your needs are most 3jaw chucks have runout tolerances the cheaper the chuck the worse the runout throughout the entire holding range of the chuck Just because it's ok at 25mm dose not mean it's fine at 50 mm so use your dial indicator. You may even be able to get a small collet Chuck to suit the tapered center hole of the rotary table to Hold your smaller work accurately.
Thanks for your comment and for sharing your knowledge. My table has a MT3 and I turned down a MT3 on a steel round that's long enough to reach the jaws on a 3 jaw chuck, my idea was to tighten the jaws on the shaft before I tighten the bolts down on the table. hopefully this will get my chuck centred to the rotary table fairly accurately. I'll try this soon and see how it works out.
well done Johnny!
Thanks for the positivity!
You should make a Morse taper with the same diameter as the hole on the plate it would make it so much easier to locate it to the center
Hi, thanks for watching and your comment. I have a rod that has a morse taper on one end, after it’s placed into the rotary table I place the chuck which has been bolted to the mounting plate loosely onto the rotary table then I clamp the chuck to the rod, this aligns the centre of the chuck to the centre of the rotary table, this method works well.
Nice and simple.
Thanks, it’s been working well
Speak up,jeez.
Sorry mate, I'll try to improve that in the future but thanks for your feedback.
here in USA they are a dime a dozen at the flea markets as everyone now want composite ones less noise i guess
The ones with York on them are the best & i get them at carboot sales/flee markets very cheap & the bar is good steel to turn down. Few tips, use a brazed on carbide tool with a good rad on it upside down with chuck running in reverse and use a vacuum cleaner under the tool to colect swarf, the faces don't clean up leave a witness or you will loose the width. From Coventry in the UK.
Thanks for your comment and the tips! I've still got 5 more weights, 3 are smaller so I'll get to try out your tips. Cheers.
Glad you are happy with it now
Mi comentario no tiene sentido, quiero apoyar al Autor del canal ¡Gracias!2
Thanks!
I've got my chuck and rotary table in the ol wish list so i can do the same setup. I wonder if i can find an old weight to use as well 😆
Lol, good luck my friend 😂
I have found that most Chinese made lathe and milling tools need deburring.
Except Shars Tools. Perfect every time and always above specs.
I find their equipment not to bad for the price. My last chuck worked fine but they are not top of the range. that will cost 6 to 10 time the price. I have had top brand goods that have been so bad and after service non existent that I now refuse to pay for a brand name.
I agree, even though this chuck had an issue, it all worked out good in the end.
Impressive
Thanks for making these instructional videos for us, Johnny
That’s nice! I enjoy doing them and if they help anyone in anyway, then it’s all worth it.
Nice work. I like your rotary table. Another thing I need to get still
Thanks
You are very creative. 😀
sweet
Hi Johnny may i ask you what diameter and pitch has your carriage lead screw and what is his length ,i am looking for this info for one of my project thank you Roman
Hi Roman, sorry about the late reply. the diameter of the lead screw is 20mm, pitch is 3mm and the length is 950mm. Hope this helps.
How is the cover working for you?
Really well, because it's very quick to remove and install, I mostly use it when I use my files or sandpaper, or turning materials that produce fine chips.
Thank you! I love the idea. :)@@johnnyciantar
Hi John, what are the light amps you are using on your lathe fitted to the magnetic base? Great idea for the tapping and die holder you have.
Hi mate, the light is 9W LED. I bought 2 of them from eBay, one for my milling machine as well. Unfortunately they are no longer available on eBay, they work great.
Thanks @@johnnyciantar
Nice work.
Thanks!
Nice work, I have the same lathe and wondering if I could get a lower feed rate, I guess this also gives a lower feed rate but at the cost of too slow for cutting. Have you tried gettting feed rates lower without loss of speed? I know other lathes have separate drive systems for feed, sadly not our lathe!
Hi mate, to get a slower speed rate, you’ll need to alter the change gears that came with the machine. Do you have the set of change gears that came with the machine?
@@johnnyciantar Yes I have them
Yes, I have them, is it just a matter of using a different combination? Also, would like to PM you if possible since we have the same lathe we may be able to share experiences over time
great idea
Thank you! 😊
Good idea
You can now remove the threads & nuts to clear the cross slide handle.
Hi, even if I did remove the nuts and threads, the handle still fowls by 15mm and reducing the length of the handle was never going to be an option. The nuts also prevent the handle being completely removed by accident and then having to look for the spring and ball bearing.
Bonza work mate :-)
Thanks Bro!
You have "vise" there. A "vice" will have the police after you.
Lol! My bad, thanks for pointing that out to me.
Not in Australia. We use the UK spelling, so here most people with a decent shed have many vices....
LOL! I thought I was going crazy, when I checked my spelling after I read @charles comment and I did see vice spelt both ways but thought I must have it wrong, now you've explained it well, thanks. :)
Your setup is robust enough to do it under power.
Hi, I’m now cutting threads under power, the problem I had was my lathe’s slowest speed was 125 rpm which I felt was too fast, I’ve now modified my machine by adding to the pulleys and now my slowest speed is 68 rpm
Outstanding
Good job! it's a useful solution in other places as well.
Like it!
Thanks for the positive comment :)
Smart!
Thanks for the positive comment :)
Beautiful lathe you have there, i hope to be getting mine soon. Is there anyway to contact to you, Instagram, discord, etc? Id like to ask you some questions about your G variant. Either way im subscribing, hope to see the machine in action
Hi mate, I don't use Instagram or discord or any other social media. You could send me an email if you want? I don't know what a G variant is lol but happy to answer any questions, even here on Ytube. Cheers
@@johnnyciantar Hey, thanks for answering. The G in 3008G stands for Gears; your variant is the one with the change gears. I'm thinking about getting a used small-sized industrial one or your model. Coming from a Chinese mini lathe, I'm concerned about the fit and finish on the Optimum. How is your first impression so far? Also, how loud is your machine? Do the gears make a lot of noise?
@@davide501 Oh thanks, now I know what the G stands for. I've had my machine for 5 years now and I'm really happy with it. The gears aren't loud for a geared machine. The overall finish is pretty good. For the price of these machines, my opinion is they are great value. I bought my lathe from Hare & Forbes and these guys are great even with after sales and service. They sell lots of Optimum equipment and they wouldn't risk their reputation if Optimum wasn't good value. The beauty of these machines, they're easy to work on and over time you'll make your own improvements. Ytube is full of great ideas. The biggest flaw in this machine and it's common for most small lathes, the top slide design has poor rigidity, I ended up making a solid tool post holder that mounts to the cross slide, a lot of guys have done the same, it's a great mod. The finish is way better and parting off is so much easier, very rarely I do any tapers and it doesn't take long to refit the original top slide to do any taper turning. I wish you the best and hope it goes well getting your lathe!
@@johnnyciantar thanks for the your thorough response!
As a logical downward extension of the existing speed ranges, it would be good to have the lowest speed around 30 rpm. Since you've already got the first reduction gear as large as will fit, that means reducing the drive pulley to a little less than half it's existing size. That might exceed the minimum diameter that the belt could handle without slipping or breaking though.
Hi, I'm already at the maximum minimum diameter with the new drive pulley extension. I've already done some machine tapping and 68rpm is working out really nice :)