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@@MarieBarbar You can purchase white pigment and add to transparent base to give you a "transparent /lighter" white. Alternatively you can purchase an opaque base which is white and much thicker.

Plaster of Paris is not as hard as cement. I personally would use cement to make stepping stones especially if you have been stepping on them. I think this might be why they are not working as stepping stones. Sorry...you must be disappointed.

@@colleenseymourcrafts5802 is there any way to fix the damage? I wish I could show you a picture of the damage.

Is there any way to repair the damage? Can I replaster over the plaster that is damaged? I don't want to let this go to waste because it is my grandson's artwork in the stepping stones. And he lives 4 hours away.

@@stacystephens6468 without seeing your stepping stones it's hard to give a good answer. I would perhaps try some polyfilla ( acrylic filler) that you use on walls but if you intend leaving them outside get an exterior filler.

Do you have an email address to where I could send you pictures of the damage? Or are you on Facebook maybe?

Hi there, depending on what you have made you could seal it with a variety of mediums eg canvas wall art you could leave plain, a box you could varnish with a clear acrylic varnish, a tray which you will use will need to have a heatproof or hard varnish, some items you could even use clear wax such as those made for use with chalk paints. I hope this helps...if not just ping me another question and I'll try to answer.

@colleenseymourcrafts5802 basically I have a window shutter that is painted black and I want to put a crackled white over it. It will just be indoors as a "vintage" decoration though

@@estern836 I would either leave it untreated or perhaps use a clear wax or a matt varnish.

If you can take the top off you can still do this and use a kebab stick to mix it. Make sure that you have water based paints as this won't work for solvent based paint...ie if you clean your nozzles with turpentine or spirits.

Hi Victoria I just love the fabrics which you use for your beautiful jewellery. I hope you are very successful with your business.

My pleasure. Thank you for watching.

My pleasure. Thank you for watching

I think that if you use a roller it might make your crackle very fine. You could try a small piece first to test it.

@@colleenseymourcrafts5802 thank you 😊

Thank you for watching watching

I'm not sure I understand your question correctly so I'll do my best. If you are asking how to dry a large area which has been painted...the best thing is to leave it flat and let it air dry. This way you won't smudge your design. If you are asking how to dry paint which you have put on thickly...I would advise against putting paint on too thickly. The paint needs to soak into the fabric. If it is sitting thick on top of the fabric it us likely that some of it will wash off. Once all fabric is dry you need to heat set the paint with a hot dry iron...ironing for 2 to 3 minutes over each area.

@@colleenseymourcrafts5802 thank you so much. I meant I have fabric paint that are oil based but harden up or they are dry in the container. Do you have any idea how to restore them. I’ve already used the salt hack but helps a little. I hope I’m more clear now with my question. Ty in advance

@@onceuponakeke7287 Ok. Sadly the oil based fabric paints can't be made sift again. If you live in a city and can't fund water based fabric paints you can ask at a screen printer for transparent textile base and pigment and mix your own. The textile base is like cake batter nd the pigment works like food colour would so you can mix your own paints. I hope this helps

For this technique the fabric becomes very wet and will stretch and say in a frame so it is easier to work on a flat surface. If you were using silk and gutta liner then you would be able to stretch that fabric for that style of crackle.

The product I used was made by Dala but was local to South Africa. What you might find it called a base coat or step one of the antique crackle method. What you are looking for are two products which dry TRANSPARENT. The base coat (transfer glaze) dries relatively quickly. The top coat ( antique crackle) takes a much longer time to dry. This causes the crackle. You would then have to highlight the cracks with a gilding paste in the color if your choice, an oil color or even a wax polish in a tin. MAKE SURE that you don't get a crackle which cracks one color paint over a second color paint because it is NOT the same. Sorry about the capital's but it is important. I hope this helps.

@@colleenseymourcrafts5802 Thank you so much!

My pleasure. Thank you for watching.

Yes, heat will help to set the color. You could iron the fabric for 2 to 3 minutes on a hot dry setting or use the dryer. If using the dryer do the fabric separately so the color does not transfer to other items especially if you put the fabric into the dryer wet.

I normally mix a packet of wallpaper paste in an empty 2 litre bottle. I usually use Pebeo Marvelling inks but have also used oil based model paints on water, and drawing inks on sphagnum moss base. I tend to dilute the wallpaper paste till the inks I'm using flow on the surface as you would like them to. I'm afraid it's not an exact method but more by feel. Thanks for watching.

My pleasure. Thank you for watching.

In this crackle method the pictures are glued on to the surface first. The transfer glaze (base coat) is applied OVER the pictures as the first step of the crackle. When it is DRY the antique crackle is applied. The transfer glaze dries relatively quickly and the antique crackle dries slowly this causes the antique crackle to "crackle". Only then do you color the crackle to highlight the cracks. I hope this helps.

I will be uploading the dressing of Rosie, one of the dolls, next weekend. Thanks for watching.

@@colleenseymourcrafts5802 my pleasure. Thank you for posting such great educational videos 💕✨

A few things could be possible: it's a good idea to spritz water in the mould first. Second make sure your mixture is not too liquid...about 50: 50 works well. Thirdly make sure the plaster has hardened before taking it out the mould. Lastly be gentle when removing delicate shapes and don't force the plaster shape out. Try to get a little air between the mould and the shape and that should release it. I hope this is helpful. Thanks for watching :)

I haven't worked with Tulip fabric paints but I quickly googled them and they are water based. I would squeeze or scoop a little out and add a small quantity of salt and mix it. It should do the trick. If you're happy that this worked you can do the rest...or return them

I'm afraid I can't honestly answer that as I haven't worked with an airbrush before. Perhaps you could do a test first. Sorry I can't help.

I would suggest you do a test first. Lightly sand the plastic with waterglass fine sandpaper. It should in theory work.

What a great idea, thank you for sharing. 😚

the colour palette for this issue are much softer than usual. This is an accurate reflection in my opinion. Maybe next cover will be more vivid so lets see.

I can make another video with a different decorating technique and will do a minimal necklace...good idea...thanks

Thanks Lewis

For safety always be careful when burning candles and Do Not leave them unattended. Only if your candle is over 10 cm in diameter, and you don't put it in a breeze where it burns unevenly, then you should be able to. Candles usually burn down the middle and leave a she'll around the edge. You could also dip the candle in clear wax once you have put your napkin on and this will seal it.