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S10 C223 Isuzu Chevy Luv 1984 Mamalona Mph Tom Smith Km / H Gen Oil N Mode Jonathan Erber Brake

Mamalona S10 Chevy Isuzu C223 Nos Slammed Monster Lock Gen Oil N Mode Good Bye Toc Startup

Yes you definitely need glow plugs. When I got my diesel s15 truck, you had to crank it at least 3 times before it would run. Did not know a thing about diesels at the time. Did some reading and decided to see if glow plugs would help, theory I was warming the cylinders by cranking it 3 times. So I finally put new ones in, the old ones were in since birth no doubt, no tips on most of them. I then went and cranked it over to see, scared the heck out of me, Started rite up. Whew , great lil diesel at a whooping 60 hp, look out now. he he he.

Wish I could get a deal like that. Don't seem to be able to find that filter mount under $80...

So it fits other uppers?

Very helpful!! Thanks! Doing this today.

Good info on the filter mount, thank you.

Do you have a tutorial video how to?

Is this the filter your running Carquest oil filter 85749 Thread Size: 1 3/8-16 Car-quest fuel 86383 or 86383 fuel filter I’m guessing Passos thru the oil filter first then the fuel filter?

Exceptionally helpful

Bypass is also Baldwin b7577 1 3/8- 16 threads, 5inch OD by 10 inch $27. The filter base by Baldwin is OB1308 By-Pass Lube Filter Base $58 to $88 threaded 3/8 NPT. Baldwin filter and base both appear to have pinhole restrictions. Pruno

Great video and top tip with the magnet! Much easier than the other method of removing the bolts to turn the controller until the pin faces sidewards. I swapped my Valvematic controller in under 2 hours from opening the lid to deleting the engine warning light in my Lotus Elise. One thing I may add: you may have to pull the shaft out ouf the engine towards the controller to re-connect the pin. Do that with to very big screwdrivers - one on either side of the connector and be prepared that this takes a real effort if the shaft on the new controller has been fully retracted. Do both sides together - otherwise it will tilt to one side and you wont get the pin in. Use a punch to put it through shaft and connector and align both a little if necessary until you feel no ridge when feeling down with the punch and the pin will just slide in... Top video and once again many thanks!

Hey dumb question, but is the oil cooler lines connected to the radiator or is it on a separate unit? Tried looking up picture couldn't find many good ones and currently overseas, so I physically can't see the vehicle. Trying to order parts for my mother's jeep.

Can you do 99-04? Is it the same?

How do you put nuts on there if there not poking through?

What motor do you run that in

Factory turbo and injectors? Tuned? Getting ready to do a 2003 Dakota

Nice work on the swap. Nice to see some attention to detail and craftsmanship compared to the mass of redneck engineering most swaps are.

Thanks for this video friend. Do you know where I can get the slim pin? the one near the actuator ?

Thank you. Nice job.

This is the only documentation I've found at all of that metal plate at 2:29 on the shaft , that prevents twisting the Valvematic completely. I have my pin pushed down toward the bottom slightly. Do you have any tips on how I can get the pin back up then use the magnet? I need to find a powerful magnet lol. Thank you @JonathanErber. This has been leaving me without a car for a couple days now.

Very cool build Jonathan! I have a CZcams channel myself and wanted to build exactly this, except with an ax-15/or nv3550 instead of the nsg-370 trans. I had a couple questions about it however. You said you lengthened the rear driveshaft only 1.5” inches. Would it be possible to build this truck without having to get a custom rear driveshaft? Could you slightly modify the firewall or possibly even run a driveshaft spacer at the rear diff? I really didn’t want to get anything custom made that would ruin the budget. Also when you said you modified the front driveshaft what exactly did you cut? I also had a question about the A/C. Did you have to run a a/c bypass pulley because the stock location for the ALH’s A/C would hit the engine mounts you made? Will the factory Dakotas A/C setup bolt right up to the new AC compressor on the passenger side? Lastly, what exactly are you getting for fuel economy? From the research I’ve done it seems like the truck should be getting anywhere from 32-35mpg? Again really cool build, and it’s great to see someone prove you don’t need $10,000 to do a diesel swap.

You know how to get the factory tach to work? Just need a resistor and a dakota digital box.

Hey even though this is four years ago I'm wondering if I could get some advice, I recently purchased a 2014 Ford SVT raptor V8 6.2 and somebody recommended this set up to me unfortunately I don't understand that much about it, would you recommend that set up for this vehicle, it still has under 60,000 miles on it and no issues, but if you think this would help I would like to know, thank you very much. 😊

Great video. Thank you for posting. Made it so easy. Saved me a ton of $$$. Much appreciated.

That's a good explanation

Thank you so much

What size is the orfice?

What about the EAS BPS and traction light? Does replacing the clock spring help?

Very helpful. My truck is going to run forever. Close to doing my new engine swap soon. Making it my last truck. Doing it right.

Whitbreads adaptors are the best. I too have a TDI on a NSG370 and I used the Jeep crank sensor in the normal place on the transmission bell housing and the TAC worked great.

It would be nice to know which engine you are working on trying to guess from the pan and filter location that it's the straight six I think but I don't know for sure but it is very different from the 3.7 Also it would be nice to know what size wrench is you use and where it gets unhooked from the tranny cooler what type of connections and what you need to unhook that

Awesome build

That's quite lol you should hear mine

Dude. Right on the money... All the pertinent information rapid fire!!! Thanks!

Where part 3

Nice work. Buying a southern frame for my salt rusted frame.

Good video mah man, thanks...

I have a centrifuge for sale of you want one

Are you fucking kidding me diff drop, ridicules. I dropped the diff 2 years ago. I will not do this shit again sold as is I guess.

For all rookie mechanics, Do NOT remove the crank bolt or the engine will jump time. Some engines can be saved or sell the remaing good parts, and often, the flex plates crack on these engines and clank like a rod knocking. Lastly, all that concern about the cv axle into the gears is FALSE. You can push and pull the axle with force with no damage. Just be sure to grease the lip of the seal. AND same for transmission pump, the torque convertor is made to slide in an extra inch so the flex plate can be turned properly to insert bolts. The only time to worry about damage is if the torque converter isnt seated into the pump properly. All this requires is a hand spin and other hand pushing convertor inwards. You will feel the engagement/ resistance of the turn. Grease that lip of the seal too and wipe a little grease on snout and that cv axle splines and smooth surface.

How much where are you located

Hey doesn't the engine harness go into that block/junction on the drivers side with the one bolt for multiple harnesses? So theoretically couldn't you just pull that plug and disconnect any grounds going to the body and keep all the connectors on the engine and its accessories?

Great video and it def helped me switch mines out. But any idea if i have to reprogram the key fob because i cannot get it to open now 😢

Nice truck I have a 93 ext cab 6.5 with 5 speed and love it

Where did you purchase this clock spring?

"She can dig as much in a day as a hundred men could in a week!" :) What a beautiful view!

did you have any problems connecting or disconnecting the lines?

do you think that would have been possible without removing the front dif?

Why would these need to be changed? Is it bc the car says transmission temperature over? My Jeep has that problem