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Yeah I think the boiler ring is supposed to be torqued on much more tightly, or the boiler will swivel on the base when the machine is heated up. They sell a tool just for tightening/untightening that boiler ring (I was gonna try 3d printing it).

I use a long punch/ rod and lightly hammer to tighten the ring. It doesn't actually seal, just locates and holds. I assumed that was what the additional tab on the ring is for. I also use copper ease on the threads, much easier to screw on and off! Clean the groove where the sealing ring sits - a little fine paper.

@@johngreen8693 Thanks for the tips. The gaskets that at in contact with the baseplate are there to help keep the boiler in place. It's the seal on the element section that holds the water in. I found the bolts were a bit loose when I had a look after it had sprung a leak and spread water all over the place. Whether this was because of the seal having compressed over time or the bolts hadn't been tightened properly, I'm not sure. I'll be doing the full service myself from now on

@@geoffsemon7411 No worries. I usually only change boiler/ base gaskets for every 3 times I change the head and piston seals. If they are ok I just leave them! I did find that newer gaskets are slightly thicker and the three bolts couldn't tighten enough to create a decent seal, so I just washers on the bolts to space them slightly - it worked but took ages to work out why I kept getting leaks!

Ma scusa hai fatto un lavoro radicale sulle guarnizioni e poi rimonti tutto con la resistenza tutta incrostata di calcare??? Lavoro orribile!