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Yes I agree, don't be put off by the price. It's good that your Honda is still working well.

Hi, I think this depends on what kind of surface finish is already on the table. If it's painted then I'd rub it down well with 120 then 240 grit sandpaper, wipe the surface clean and apply a primer then a topcoat. You can buy Multi Surface Paints, Bedec is one brand. This might work well with a couple of coats. This approach might work if it's stained.

Thank you. 😊

There was no reason not to reuse them. The edges still are supported by the joists with sufficient board to accommodate the screws.

The correct amounts for the second putty for the second stage are: 6 parts Speedage or wall putty + 2 parts zinc white + 1 part glue + 1 part linseed oil + a little water instead of thinner, as I mentioned in the comment for stage 2. While the thinner should be used in the first stage in a ratio of 2 parts to 1 part

That sounds fascinating. I've never heard of a method like this. Thank you for sharing it. 😊

@@JohnTheHandymanUK You're welcome. You can try this on a piece of wooden MDF. Did you read the second comment about the proportions that should be used? I can contact you and provide you with something useful to understand everything I told you

Thank you. 🙂

Thanks for your comment it's very kind of you. Much appreciated. 😃

If you mean the joists then bees wax might work. I can't really say how successful it would be.

Hi, I'm sorry but I can't help you with your problem. It's not something I've heard of. Is there a fuel filter? Maybe it's blocked and needs cleaning or replacing. You are probably best to take it to a dealer who does servicing, buy maybe ask their advice first. I hope that you can solve the problem.

Thank you. 😃

That's funny, thanks. 😁. There wasn't space in the title to add "to a wall".

Thank you.

Thank you, and good luck with yours.

Return it to the supplier then.

Chipboard floors are usually tongue and groove and they are meant to be glued together, but maybe yours aren't like that. That's good that you've found a solution.

Yes, two coats of primer/ undercoat. The top coat can be any paint that's suitable for wood. The can will tell you.

@JohnTheHandymanUK Thankyou!

That's good to hear. I know of two gardeners who use a Honda Izy. It's interesting to hear about the wheel bearings but not good if they can't be replaced now. 🙂

You could lay a new floor on top but I don't see the point. I think it will still squeak. Best to cure the problem and not cover it up.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK much appreciated, thank you. Moving into a property and they are squeeking everywhere, but the joists are those stupid lightweight hollow ones, rather than proper solid ones that I can easily add additional ones.

Thank you for your kind comment. The MDF didn't have a name to it. I'd had the sheets several years before I used them, and they came from a timber merchant called Covers in Horsham, England. Covers have a few branches in the South of England with Chichester being absolutely huge! I don't think they were anything special, they certainly weren't moisture resistant. I know that The 10 Minute Workshop on CZcams always uses moisture resistant as the edges cut very well. Sorry I can't be more specific.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Thank you for your reply John. I think that I'll get some small pieces from various merchants and do some tests.

Thank you and enjoy it. Mine must be ten years old now. I've heard some people say that the steel base rusts. I brush the grass off after every use and spray with a lubricant intended for hedge trimmers. It supposedly breaks down the grass and green stuff. So far despite some surface rust there are no holes at all.

I'm not really sure that plywood wood be better. Certainly no worse. If you are just changing some boards, you might not find them the same thickness which would cause you problems. I think the problems in my room is that the joists may have shrunk and now move against other timbers.

Maybe there is too much paint on the roller, or it's not the right type of roller. At least they go eventually.

I've never come across any MDF with a shiny surface that needs sanding first, unless it is laminated of course. Ar you in the UK? I'm curious to know what you have in mind.

@JohnTheHandymanUK Yeah the UK. Maybe it's because I use thin sheets it's like that

I'm pleased you enjoyed it Teresa. It's great knowing where my viewers are from too. Good luck with your project and don't forget to subscribe, please. I want to reach 4000 subscribers.

Of course, spraying will give a nicer finish, but for those who don't have a spray gun or the space to spray then my method works very well.

That's a great idea. What make of acrylic varnish/lacquer did you use?

@@JohnTheHandymanUK I think my reply might have been zapped due to including a URL. It was bought from Screwfix but they no longer stock it. My memory suggests the company was in SE England - London/Essex/Kent. But I could be totally wrong. Was in a half-gallon plastic container. However, remainders have been decanted into anonymous jars so cannot refer. A company called Finneys do something that appears similar and they offer a small sample (charged).

This isn't something that I've tried but if you are in the UK then look at Bedec Multi Surface Paint. As for preparation, clean the surface well and perhaps lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean again before painting. Try an inconspicuous area first! Do let me know how you get on.

I don't think they do. They usually have a coat of white primer on them. It is best to give another coat of primer before the top coat.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK tha k you very much 👍

I'm pleased you found it useful. To be honest the squeaks haven't all gone! I think the joints have shrunk over time and it's these that squeak where they go under a wall. Best of luck, it's a bit of a pain to do!

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Thanks! I was originally going to try and lift the boards up after I cut one out but it seems that's an impossible task with them being under the skirting. I was actually recommended some D4 tongue and groove glue and was told that makes the world of difference - fingers crossed!

@@reecevaughan4225 Yes the foaming glues might work but I suspect that you need the glue between the floor and the joists, which means taking up the flooring. A little trial and error is needed I think!

@@JohnTheHandymanUK worked a treat for me! Took 3 days and I had to pop some packers under the skirting but squeak free!

@@reecevaughan4225 excellent news. The packers are a great idea so I hope it stays squeak free!

Thanks for your comment, and yes I should have shown the sanding. My mistake!

That sounds different and nice. 😊

It's quite time consuming. You'll need at least three hours, going on four, but it's well worth the effort. Enjoy!

Yes indeed! They are all gin.

Thank you so much. That's appreciated.

I wouldn't say that MDF is for beginners at all. There are many instances when it's better than say solid wood or plywood. It's used extensively in furniture making. Yes using a plane on the edges doesn't work well and the dust should not be inhaled. As for screws try using the black screws for fixing plasterboard. In the UK we call them Bugle Head Drywall Screws. They are thin yet have quite a large tooth. The bugle head will pull into the surface better than a countersunk. Highly recommended. Maybe one day I'll introduce my workshop. Right now it's very messy and too cold to work there.

I'm pleased you enjoyed it. As Steve says casters (wheels) make things easier.

Thank you very much.

I'd always use a primer undercoat. For a light coloured top coat use a white undercoat. If you are planning on a dark top coat then use a darker undercoat. Grey is usual. Having said that I used white primer/ undercoat and then a dark green top coat. It covered well.

Thanks, I'm pleased you like it.

I've not heard of pressboard but a quick Google search suggests it is not the same as MDF. You could try sealing the board faces and sides with a slightly diluted solution of PVA, wood glue. Applying two coats of white emulsion paint might work also.

I guess that might work well, I've never tried shellac, but as you can see from my video there is really no need for extra steps. Water based acrylic paint goes on really well.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK With decent quality MDF that is normally true but the cheap stuff from places like Wicks or B&Q is a nightmare to paint without sealing it first. After applying shellac you can get a paint finish like glass so even with decent MDF it still makes a difference. It especially makes a difference on cut edges when applied before final sanding. It makes even the cheapest MDF take paint like the green moisture resistant stuff.

@schrodingerscat1863 Thanks, that's good to know. I've another MDF project this year, so I'll try this.

@@JohnTheHandymanUK Ok, good luck with the project. I was skeptical about shellac myself at first but it was a game changer for me. Only thing I would say is make sure you get actual shellac not something in a can just called shellac. It should be either ethanol or methanol based.

@@schrodingerscat1863 many thanks.

Thank you so much for your wonderful comment. I'm pleased you enjoyed it, and I hope you've subscribed! 😀