Video

Thanks! It's a slight step-up, like 13:9

@@5VLogic thanks. So 1:1 could work as well?

Sure, just remember that the forward converter usually takes a maximum duty cycle of 50%, so you'll get less that 0.5 times the input voltage at the output.

What are you referring to with "source"?

It is valuable because if for nothing else it reinforces why things are done a certain way.

@@vincentwhite7693 its useless because noone is doing it this way, besides being a half-assed attempt at explaining it.

@@VEC7ORlt I am a relative beginner and yes, yours was/is my response on one level, but then I was grateful at having had an inadvertent master tutorial on the problems involved, which appeals to my curiosity. But not every beginner would be able to critique the video, I get it.

@@vincentwhite7693 start reading data sheets and application notes, there are plenty of those, varying from simple to PhD grade, and they are way better than these vids.

Thank you for the feedback, that's great to know!

Yeah, I screwed up while recording the explanation, and forgot to correct it in editing. Thanks

True, probably no more than 3 bands if I use first order filters, but definitely an improvement

It's an interesting idea, I remember your previous comment about it. I am also thinking that for uC projects (that are usually quite small in size) CB is not optimal, it's around 27MHz and at these frequencies a proper dipole antenna is 5 meters long (2.5 m for monopole) this becomes really impractical. Also having tried this kind of projects in the past I realized that experimenting is quite difficult because the transmitter and receiver are often within near-field range of each other, and the signal appears to go through the power lines in the walls. making it quite hard to work with. In any case I'm keeping this idea in mind, as I always like the RF field of electronics

​@@5VLogicthe anteena need not be 5m long in a straight line, you can wind it up in a coil and it works just fine! Its called anteena loading btw, 😃 I want you try this project. In a couple of videos, I saw an Arduino used to generate the AC signal with its two PWM pins. But couldn't find a detailed description. I hope you look more into it 😀 Good luck 🤞

​@@5VLogicAs far as I know, the 27Mhz has better penetration than 2.4Ghz and it works great as long as the wattage is sufficient. Testing some circuits might help though...

Single ended amplifier.

@@4bSix86f61 huh?

I believe it would make some problems since the linear regulator isn't made to sink current, therefore the AC would be problematic. Although I should probably try it. Also any small offset would result in DC going through the speaker which isn't nice.

Thanks!!! It really means a lot!

That's a though one, the polypropylene cap should be fine, just don't use an electrolytic one. I'm assuming you are using the same value as me... Maybe you can increase current in the inductor, but I'm not sure. If you have an oscilloscope, check the waveform going into the Arduino ADC, this way you can figure out if it's a firmware problem or a hardware one. Hope this helps

@@5VLogic I'm using a High Gain transistor, i tried increasing the Pulse time of the Transistor, it's the same. I'll probably experiment again, thanks for the response

Yeah, I was considering it, but was short on time and didn't get it done.

Not yet, but it's an idea. I should look into doing that. I'm a little doubtful on how many people would be interested since it would require people to also order the components. EDIT: just got it done for the small version. The large one I'm tempted to avoid. Maybe I'll do it some other time.

@@5VLogic do you have a link to it please?

@@retrocomputinggrotto Yup: www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Miniaturized_Buck_Converter_46919872.html

The two resistors at the output (Rfb1 & Rfb2) determine the output voltage. The voltage divider must produce 1.25V at nominal output voltage. Also: all components must be rated for this voltage. And the input must be higher than 24V because it's a step-down converter

You clearly are not a man of culture. The joy is in the design my friend.

You must be fun at parties. It's the process of research, design, build, fail, back to the drawing table and start all over again until you have what you want that makes it fun. And you can easily change things your €0.15 buck converter be able to do like support a higher amperage.

Making something helps you understand how it works for fault finding so you can repair a laptop motherboard for a few pence/cents rather then paying hundreds for a new motherboard. Education.

Of course, it's an electronic load, I made a video about it maybe 2 years ago, it's quite useful when testing DC converters. Here's the link to the video if you're interested: czcams.com/video/ySyOoFI5cqA/video.htmlsi=qG8SAWzj0f9ea9Vo

Wrong side? Its literally always on pin 4.

@@VEC7ORlt almost any TO, SOT part has gate on the left pin (1), SOP DPAK and DFN on the right (4) its completely messed up for no reason

Yes same with JLCPCB 10 PCBs for 2$ and shipping to the neighboring country India costs about 35$ 🤣🤣

Around 3:00 ksp music is on

Thanks! ; )

That's interesting, I'll check it out. It also occurred to me after I made it, that I could have used a controller IC with integrated MOSFET, this would make things even smaller.

@@5VLogicA switching solution with a higher switching frequency will dramatically reduce the inductor size - or at least volume if not footprint as much.

Thanks! I'm glad you liked the video. It's a great suggestion, although it would appear that the only thing I have bad luck with more than component footprints is RF projects. I've been trying multiple ones over the years and have basically failed at all of them... If I ever get anything working I'm most definitely making a video about it!

​@@5VLogicBetter to try on a breadboard with an LC circuit or a crystal oscillator... Or first try with FM radio frequency to test the transmitter first before making the receiver. Troubleshooting is a must 👍

I don't see why not. I assume you mean to read the analog voltage with the Arduino ADC. In this case the comparator isn't needed. I don't remember the details of the circuit... But maybe, depending on the Arduino analog input's impedance a buffer can help. May not be necessary though.

Thanks, Do you mean a Megahertz or a millihertz. Both are on the extreme side of the spectrum. For 1MHz I think it's gonna be tough, I recommend using a different circuit, maybe if you have a fast switching comparator you can pull it off but I definitely can't guarantee... The RC value is going to be about 10^-6 so like 1kOhm and 1nF I believe. Still, I'd opt for a different circuit; crystal or LC if you're feeling adventurous. For 1mHz the RC constant would be 10^3 so like 1MOhm and 1mF. Also you'll have to wait more than 16 minutes for one period... I want to remind that these values are very approximate. For dual power supplies you need some sort of dual power supply... ;) Simplest might be two batteries in series and then regulated with two linear legulators.

@@5VLogic *MHz mega hertz.

Good observations 👍

Yeah, that's a good point, I thought about it, because it would have been cool, but I couldn't think of an actual way to pull it off.