Video

As mentioned, there will be a more comprehensive video focused on simracing titles coming relatively soon. I will cover pretty much all of the current simracing titles. Unfortunately nothing beyond that right now.

You have a really good cpu as of now and zen4 is only 20% faster AT MOST. You would see much more of an increase in fps and way less frame dips if you upgrade you gpu to something faster and with more vram. 7900gre or 4070 super would massively increase your performance(40-45%) and your cpu is still strong enough to keep up with either of those gpus. You can also probably get a good amount of money for your 3070. If your budget constrained like me, you should strongly consider upgrading your gpu before cpu in your specific case.

I'm not using anything extraordinary I would say. It's a lot of settings to list, but I'll try... View distance High, Shadows Mid, Shadows distance High, Contact shadows Enabled, DLSS Enabled, DLSS Quality Balanced or Performance (depends on resolution I use - this was Balanced in 1440p), Effects, Postprocess, Foliage, Texture and Mirror quality all on High, Mirror view distance 100m, Mirror framerate limit Off, Mirror resolution Mid, Oponents 20, Materials High, Bloom and Volumetric Fog Mid, Foliage LOD High, HLOD Enabled, Advanced sharpen Disabled, Motion Blur Enabled, Saturation 96, White Balance Neutral, Image contrast 0.5, Exposure gain 0.4, Tone mapping Default. The image customization stuff would probably have to be tweaked for SDR, I was using HDR here and the game looks different in HDR mode.

Evidentně ano.

@@Case_ 😀😀😆😆

If it's the same engine I had on this car (there are several versions of the 1.6 zetec, so they might be somewhat different), then the MAP sensor was placed rather awkwardly behind the plastic intake manifold on the front side of the engine. Standing in front of the car, you can see the MAP sensor connector in the gap between the first and second intake from the left. You can even reach it with a bit of an effort, but if you want to replace the sensor, you need to remove the alternator (which is right next to the intake manifold further to the left). But I would probably advice against trying to clean a MAP sensor, it's unlikely it needs cleaning (on a petrol engine, at least) and attempting to do so might do more harm than good.

@@Case_ Thanks you very much!!!!, i will try directly to replace it, it is not so expensive, i was so crazy about don´t finding it, thanks really man!!!

49°11′33″N 16°36′30″E

Recese to byla proto, že Ruda byl sice mentálně zaostalý, ale Franta Kocourek se o něho staral a ještě z toho udělali společenské akce, kde se lidi bavili. Taky prý Kovanda umřel mnohem později, než jiní lidé s jeho poruchou a bylo to právě proto, že se mu někdo věnoval a snažil se ho rozvíjet. V té době to bylo opačně a Kovanda měl veliké štěstí, že poznal Frantu Kocourka

Ano. Je to v titulku videa ;)

Je to pravda.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. Is it that you don't like correct FOV adjustments because they affect the inside of the car as well? If so, then of course, that's what should happen. The virtual wheel on screen should be more or less the size of your actual physical wheel in front of you (and they should line up), taking into consideration their actual physical differences (obviously if the car has a 32" wheel and your wheel is 28", then they should probably not line up perfectly and the in-game wheel should be somewhat bigger). If the camera is too close and the interior of the car is too big as a result, then you move the camera back a bit to get the correct viewpoint.

@@Case_I prefer driving without the virtual wheel and have my wheel motor aligned over the wheel shaft with the interior of car proportionally correct, which is difficult to do only in the WRC titles. AC, ACC, iRacing, rfactor 2, Dirt 2.0-I can find the correct FOV. I’ve been spending time with WRC 10 recently, and best I can get on “correct” FOV has an incredibly large paddle shifter I can almost hide with clever height/angle/seat adjustments. I use a 55” screen and sit 84 cm away, I’m 6’4”, roughly 68.8” horizontal FOV or 42 vertical.

​@@ChubbyCelloCar50 Yeah, it is hard to do in the WRC titles because their camera options suck ;)

@@Case_haha, otherwise I’m enjoying 10 quite a bit. Still waiting for them to iron out the wrinkles on ‘23, though I don’t expect the fov settings to be much different. A stable fps would be good though. I’m running an RTX 4070 and a 5950x gpu that doesn’t enjoy running WRC ‘23.

@@ChubbyCelloCar50 If by '23 you mean the EA WRC, then (not just) the settings are more like Dirt Rally 2.0, because the game is essentially the followup Dirt Rally made by Codemasters, whereas the 6-10 + Generations were made by Kylotonn.

Thank you for clearing that up.

And he f@*$ your pets!

I did that on purpose to see who's paying attention. (I totally didn't...)

"You have potential, but..." is essentially the story of my life ;) I am aware of not taking advantage of the full width of the track, and it's semi-conscious (I'm not good with judging the width of the car and I prefer to be slower instead of spinning out). And I'm also semi-aware of not driving the cars correctly when it comes to turning, just wasn't sure what exactly was I doing wrong. But bear in mind that at the time of this race, I had like 20 minutes of experience with both the current state of iRacing *and* this combo, so I'm sure that with practice, I would improve (within my low-ish limits).

I haven't raced in rF2 for so long I don't remember specific cars anymore (but I might race the BMW tonight if things work out). The Caterham felt slidey, but I wouldn't say I had problems keeping it in a straight line, except for the exit of the chicane. Getting it to turn felt like the more difficult thing to do and most of the steering was done with the throttle, really, rather than the steering wheel.

If you say so.

Many starter cars are rather deceptive and harder to master than people might expect - because they're meant to be exactly that even IRL. Their main purpose is to teach drivers how to race and how to control the car well, so their handling characteristics are often focused on emphasizing specific things/driving techniques. These, for example, are quite prone to understeer (IMO) if you don't get the balance of the car and the driving line/speed through the corner right. Something like say GT3 cars in comparison can give the impression of being easier to drive, because they're a lot more forgiving. They will still reward good driving technique, of course, but they will not punish mistakes nearly as much and won't also make them as apparent as the "starter" cars.

These cars aren't all that bad, I honestly find them easier to drive then the mx5 series as they have more grip!

I need to sort out spotters and HUDs. (And lots of other stuff as well, really, if I'm to race at least semi-regularly.) I just couldn't be bothered yet. (But I definitely prefer Crew Chief over the default spotter.)

I'm using some custom color tweaks, yes, but I don't remember what exactly they are anymore. I don't think I touched saturation, but I certainly did adjust white balance to my liking (meaning a bit warmer, most games are way too cold).

Jste tu o devět let pozdě a řešení je navíc přímo ve videu, ale díky za snahu.